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Mt. Bromo : The Temple, The Sand, and the Ashes “To baptize him after a Hindu god must be of paramount importance“, I murmured while trudging the surprisingly cold sea of sand known locally as Laut Pasir in my cheap flip-flops. Mt. Bromo is an active volcano that lies in Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. The unique volcanic activity of Mt. Tengger created the five volcanoes in the massif namely: Mt. Batok, Mt. Kursi, Mt. Watangan, Mt. Widodaren and the famous Mt. Bromo. I was with throngs of foreign and local tourists, mostly the oldies; some of them opted for a more convenient pony ride for Rp20, 000. Poor ponies! But you can’t really blame the locals because that’s how they earn their living. Like I said before, it was my 1st time to avail of budget holidays tour packages, but I don’t regret it because it definitely made my trip easier! While we we’re watching the legendary Bromo sunrise, I was so mesmerized that I sat there for God knows how long and completely forgot that the other tourists are waiting for me. When I got off the jeep my attention was caught by a Hindu temple- the Pura Luhur Poten temple, made of black volcanic rocks with gates and structure redolent of Bali Temple, bizarrely built within the massif. When the Majapahit empire fell, most Tenggereses (local Indonesians living within the highlands) fled to Bali, while some stayed behind and built this great reminder of their culture. The Tenggereses climbs Mount Bromo once a year for the Kasada, an annual pilgrim to celebrate their ancestors. Beyond the Hindu temple within the lower slopes of Mt. Bromo, is the 250 steps that would bring tourists to the caldera. I must admit I have underestimated this trek, but there I was having a hard time and the cold air is getting through my almost bare feet. “You can do it, you’re almost there!” I can’t recount how many times I had to convince myself. Upon reaching the base, I stopped and looked back. The view of the temple down the sea of sand and the mountains at the back where we viewed the sunrise was spectacular. I was standing in an irregular ground surrounded by ponies and cowboys and faceless crowds. Now climbing the stairs is another story. But finally reaching the end of the stairs, like any other climb, is self-rewarding. From meeting a stranger-a local Indonesian engineer named Tama at the airport who helped me to buy a train ticket to Gambir station, the long boring train ride, finding a niche in Yogyakarta, doing the temple tour, strolling around Yogyakarta, and a grueling 10 hour bus ride to Cemoro Lawang, here I am standing in the caldera of perhaps the most photographed volcano in Java watching him vent. I never imagined myself trekking an active volcano just to watch him spew steam from a big crack in the ground in my entire life. But that’s what travel is all about, we discover amazing places and it teaches us new things, in fact great things. Travel teaches me to live in the moment by being in constant awe of my surroundings. In a new place like Mt. Bromo, I paid attention to the scenery and noises around me more than I would at home. Mt. Bromo and the entire park are truly a monumental treasure and one of my most amazing adventures last year. But more than the scenery, it’s that scrupulous significance of the volcanoes in the life of the Javanese and Tenggereses that deeply touched me- how they continue to live in terror beside these active volcanoes that constantly surging and erupting destroying many lives and even burning their ancestors. Yet at the end of the day, they still pray to their gods and make offerings to appease the angry volcano. The Javanese people and Tenggereses believes that the volcanoes doesn’t spew things out without any reason- they erupt because the spirits have been angered either because of the disrespectful attitude of the people or the locals grew lax and have been forgetful of the offerings, prayers and feast days. These locals believe that volcanoes bring justice and vengeance to the world. Myths and beliefs indeed play a powerful role in societies, like how people from different cultures vary in their perception of the eruption of the volcanoes. But behind all this mystique of these active volcanoes which makes it a famous parcel for adventure and thrill seekers, is the disheartening truth – the locals that guides adventure seekers who wants to get closer to the erupting volcanoes often risk their lives in exchange of guide fees and tips. So before you think of proving to yourself and to the world that you can survive that risky adventure, please think of the precious life that you’ll risk with you. *This is part of my Indonesia adventures. Viewed 63502 times by 14315 viewers there are some destinations where you would benefit greatly by joining a group tour, while others would best be explored on your own time and your own agenda. this is one spectacular post. you should one day generate a top 10 travel destionations or something. after all you’ve been everywhere. Wow Gael, the photos are just amazing! It’s a sad truth that many people will put their lives in danger just to earn money, but maybe thats just their last option. I hope their Gods guide them all throughout their journey. wow! you trekked to Bromo on your flip flops… im wearing hiking boots and my jacket when we went there with the MRS =) and also always the last to arrive on the jeep hehe… nice pictures i lavhet Breath taking photos, Gail. Green with envy here. Wasn’t able to travel up close to the crater – and that temple – because Bromo exploded the same day I arrived. I just felt lucky enough because the same day I left Bromo, they’ve stopped allowing tourists from the view deck as it was already spewing sulfur and copious ash, and wasn’t very safe. You went up close and took the “ringside view” to truly one of Indonesia’s most beautiful places. this post makes mewanna go to this place… great pictures gael… Ang ganda naman dyan….nakakainggit puro ka lang gala…haha! Happy Mother’s Day nga pala! Here’s what we missed when we were in Jogja and Solo In any case, something to look forward to in a future trip to Indonesia. But thanks for the account, Gael, so we’ll know what to expect and what to look out for next time Gael, this post blew me away like a volcanic eruption! Seriously, you should compile all your photos and stories in book form. They are all book-worthy. I kid you not. It can be a coffee table book if you want to highlight your mahvelous photos or a travel book for the travel anecdotes and tips. Other travel bloggers will just focus on the photos, but you’ve captured the spirit of this place in your text as well. This is NatGeo stuff! Wonderful photos, Gael! Loved your post (: Wow, Gael!!! Your photos are fascinating. The third photo reminds of 4×4 ride in Mount Pinatubo. Love all the photos. Take care in all your travels. Gael, planning for a Javanese trip on my own this August and I must say, this site is by far the most practical guide of all that I’ve browsed. Better than LP, i must say.
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"Ní mór Chun baptize dó tar éis dia Hindu a bheith rí-thábhachtach", murmured mé cé trudging na farraige ionadh fuar de ghaineamh a dtugtar go háitiúil mar L aut Pasir i mo saor smeach-flops. Is Bromo ar Bolcán gníomhach go luíonn i Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Páirc Náisiúnta. An ghníomhaíocht ar leith volcanic de Mt. Tengger chruthaigh na cúig bolcáin sa eadhon massif: Mt. Batok, Mt.Kursi, Mt. Watangan, Mt.Widodaren agus an Mt.Bromo cáiliúil. Bhí mé le throngs de turasóirí ón gcoigríoch agus áitiúil, den chuid is mó an oldies; cuid acu roghnaigh le haghaidh turas chapaillíní níos áisiúla do Rp20, 000. Capaillíní Poor! Ach ní féidir leat an milleán i ndáiríre an muintir na háite mar tá go conas a thuilleann siad a gcuid maireachtála. (Níos mó ...) Bhreathnaigh 63,400 uair le 14,299 lucht féachana