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Bangkok Overland to Siem Reap: Lessons Learned on the Road Bangkok is in chaos, it’s all over the news and I am clueless because I haven’t watched the TV for more or less 2 months! I can’t cancel my flight, I’ve been waiting for this trip since January, besides, it’s a big hassle since I paid cash for the expensive airfare since there’s no promo on my flight dates. While most tourists would spend 2-3 days in Siem Reap, I opted to stay for 1 week. Like I said, after my quick trip to Ayutthaya, I vowed never to be in a hurry in one country again as it defies the real essence of traveling. The plane touched down at 12 am at BKK airport, again, I wasn’t able to to register on Roaming, so my phone is plain useless. Like before I slept at the airport until sunrise. I was so pre-occupied during the past few months that I failed to plan my Cambodia trip, I didn’t even change my peso to US$ before leaving the Philippines which was a BIG mistake!!! Left me no choice but change my peso to US$ at BKK airport, but the employee at the money exchange refuse saying, it’s not good for me, Php100 is converted to US$1!! Oh, well, I have no choice. Lesson 1. Exchange your Peso to US$ before leaving the country. I went down to the 2nd floor to buy Thai foods at 7Eleven which is becoming my favorite as I can’t afford the exorbitant prices of the restaurants inside the airport. The ready-to-eat meal which you can just heat in the microwave cost 35-45B and water is 10B up. Way cheaper! That’s Lesson 2. After my modest meal, I started to secure a bed ( interconnected chairs in the airport lounge) for my 6 hours of sleep. At 6am, I will commute to the North Bus Terminal to getto Aranyaprathet, Thailand then cross the border to Poipet , Cambodia and hopefully arrive safely in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I hopped in to the free shuttle bus at the airport by 6am to the Transport Center, then took bus 55 to Victory Monument then took another bus to the North Bus terminal well-known as Mo Chit Terminal . When you get there, the bus station will read Chatuchak , don’t panic, you are at the right terminal. But when commuting , it is advisable to tell the driver you are going to Mochit not Chatuchak if you don’t wanna end up at the weekend market. At the North Bus terminal, I paid 220B for the 1st class bus. It was a 5 hour bus ride. The difference between the 1st class and the 2nd class bus? You get a SMALL juice, some SMALL cookies and if you’re lucky a comfortable chair. At the checkpoint, a young Thai man in his military uniform stepped inside the bus. I was sitting beside a Thai in his mid-50′s, and my RED backpack and my large weapon-like tripod in front of me. The guy in front of me was interrogated by the young military, unfortunately, my stuff caught the officers eye. I changed outfit at the airport, I was wearing a shirt I bought from KSR, and with my sun-kissed tone, my black wavy hair, and small eyes, I am often mistaken as either a Thai or Cambodian. He started speaking to me in his native language. “I don’t understand.,” I said. He then turned to the local beside me and I can tell from the way he nodded his head, he denied that we’re acquainted. The officer then spoke to me in Thai again. “I’m going to Cambodia”, I said. As far as I’ve seen in some movies, Thailand prison cells are like the typical crowded, unsanitary and infamous jails in the Philippines. Waaaahhh!!! I’m overthinking again! I can’t help it! At that point I know I have to calm myself down though deep inside my heart started to beat so fast. I have to prove to him I’m a Filipino tourist. So I grabbed my passport inside my sling bag and showed it to him. He looked at it and said, “Ahhh, Filipino!” He handed back my passport and as he stepped out of the bus with the guy in front of me, he looked at me and flashed a smile and waived his hand. Whew! I started gaining weird stares from the people on board. And to escape it, I went back to sleep as if nothing happened. But, that incident really scared me to death! Lesson 3. Whenever I travel abroad, I guess it’s better to program my mind, that misadventures happens but then mishaps like that makes the journey worthwhile. I’ll never stop learning you know! At the border, I took out my Thailand-Cambodia overland cheat-sheet that was sent by Marcos. I highlighted the travel warning:Lesson 4: The motor and the tuktuk will bring you to a non-official agency claiming to process visa, refuse it, ask the driver to send you directly to border-crossing. I planned to share a ride with the 2 young British teenagers but they look like snobs so I went looking for a motor taxi. You know, it is not true that whenever you travel you don’t judge people. Believe me, you do, though oftentimes it is unintentional. I guess, it is innate to humans especially when they are in a culture or a land that is foreign to them. But the important thing is, you still keep an open mind, stay flexible and suck in the whole experience! It’s Lesson 5! I opted to back ride with a woman driver, her face is half-covered with a piece of cloth, she quoted me 50B for that ride. As expected, she took me to the agency for visa, and I saw the rest of the tourist where taken there too by their respective tuktuk. A Thai guy in his slong sleeves, met me and ask me to sit inside, he asked me for my passport and said, oh, Filipino, visa is free but you have to pay 300B for processing and yada yada yada. ” Crazy! Free visa but I have to pay 300B!??? Ahhh, the notorious “visa scam!”, I murmured. NO!, then I grabbed my passport and I turned to the motor taxi driver and demanded to take me to the border directly. She did, despite my rowdy attitude. We stopped for the red light. A 4×4 passed by with kids behind it armed with water guns and pails. I suddenly remembered, oops, I’m still in Thailand and it’s Sokhran holiday! After a few seconds, the kid threw a small pail of water on me! Comm’ on! My Sling bag is not water proof and my precious camera is inside!!! Waaaahhh! But before I can even complain, the light went green. So as the driver started the engine, I hurriedly checked my camera inside. Did the universe conspired again to make this trip a disaster!? Good God, my camera is still working but I’m all wet! The driver stopped at the “real visa border” and I still thanked her despite her attempt to cheat on me. I guess the soft side of me understands why they have to do it, to make a living of course! Sometimes, it’s not what they do, but why they do it. That’s the downside to the rise of tourism, it is directly proportional to the exploitation of tourists. Now, you are about to read my BLATANT STUPIDITY!! And I wish after reading this, I won’t lose whatever respect you have left for me! I really can’t help but laugh whenever I remember this incident… So, I walked towards the border, and being born and raised in the Philippines, where we’re used to walking on the right side, I seem to have forgotten that it’s exactly the opposite in Thailand, so I kept following the right lane. I guess because I was so darn tired and my brain is already malfunctioning that I didn’t even noticed that everyone I met seems to have come from the border instead on the right lane, a clear indication that it’s the entrance to Thailand. But because I am STUPID, I still continued to walk, and the guard didn’t even stopped me! I was about to enter when I read on the door that it is the EXIT door. So I peeped inside to look for the entrance, and I saw a ticket booth a few steps away. I asked the girl manning the booth, ” Where is the visa border to Cambodia?“. She might have misunderstood me and pointed me towards the same direction I’m walking. I did notice the paper I just filled out is written in Thai and there’s no mention of Cambodia or whatever pertaining to it, but because I am STUPID I didn’t question it and I still queued up. Then a Cambodian girl who works in Thailand on the other lane started a quick talk, everyday she has to get a pass to cross between the 2 countries. My face lightened up when she mentioned she lives in Siem Reap, I planned to ask the girl if I could stay at her place (of course I intend to pay her for my stay), as humanly as possible, I prefer to stay at a local’s house than to sleep in a hostel during my trips. I noticed in Cambodia, people are friendlier to tourist, I guess the confidence is strengthened by their proficiency in English. Even the little kids can speak to you in straight English. But as one of the Cambodian child vendor disclosed, they only SPEAK English, but they can’t read nor write it. The lane on my right side opened and the immigration officer called me. I handed her my passport , then I saw that huge question mark on her face. She then started to question me, Why am I there and yada yada… Then she called her colleagues and they we’re all talking in Thai. My heart started thumping so fast again, ” Oh no, what’s the matter now!?”. “When did you arrive in Bangkok?”, she asked in a bossy tone. ” Earlier today, and I went straight here TO GO TO Cambodia, ” I answered. She turned back to her colleagues again, then they started asking,“Then why are you here? How did you get here? By plane?”. I said ,” No, by bus from Thailand.“ She browsed my passport again and asked the same questions again, so I explained my route over and over. Talk about language barrier. You know the way victims looks at suspects? I started getting such looks. It’s such a shame! And worst, I’m affected! I wanted to cry but I had to fight it back. “I did nothing wrong what’s the matter? At that point, I lost my patience and got annoyed with the redundant questions. I asked the Thai Immigration official in a raucous tone, “What’s the matter why don’t you want me to cross? If you don’t want me to cross the border then I’ll just go back to Bangkok, so can I just get back my passport!? ” , with my hand trying to grab it. A big NO, slammed my face, and the officer pulled back my passport”. The same question went on and on for about 30 minutes. At that point, I am scared big time and furious at the same time! “Now what will they do to me? Will they put me in jail? Will they confiscate my passport? Will I ever get back to the Philippines? What have I done wrong? Then, the officer called another Immigration officer, this time it’s a guy. He faced me, and asked me,”Why are you here? I said,” I am GOING TO Cambodia. ” Then he revised his question,” How did you get in this building?” I told him I asked the lady at the ticket window and he directed me there. He knocked my head and laugh. STUPID me! He spoke w/ the other immigration officers and they all get it. He escorted me to the left side of the building for the Thai immigration to stamp my passport. Alright so that was albeit forgivable! But I have put myself on real shame with the Thai Immigration when after having stamped on the left building to exit Aranyaprathet, I went back to the right building to the entrance to Thailand from Poipet! What was I thinking!!!??? So the moment I walked in, the Thai Immigration officer shouted and walked back to me. She then assisted me towards the door and showed me the gate and all to exit to Poipet. Lesson 6. I guess the most important lesson of all I learned that day is –> Use your common sense!!! Ouch! I have read in most articles that Thai Immigration officers are the worst in the world. But with this incident, I guess I’ve proved the world wrong! In front of the building is a health check station and you will be asked to stop and fill out a form. This station was put up in response to the SARS or bird flu scare years ago. By the way, you have to walk to the right side for the Cambodia passport control, that’s aside from the health check station. I was able to get to Poipet without being stamped but after seeing the other tourists walked towards the Cambodia Immigration post, I walked back to avoid another mistake. Darn! I have no pen! So, I borrowed from another tourist. Lesson 7. Always bring a pen when traveling! I didn’t pay anything because Cambodia is a visa-free country for Filipinos. The rest of the tourist paid $20 each. I walked hurriedly towards Poipet. Yay! I’m officially in Cambodia! Then my quick moment of happiness was broken when the tuktuk and cab drivers swarmed me! There’s no public bus here, they all said. Oops! Now how do I get to Siem Reap from Poipet!?? I saw a bus parked there but it seems like a tourist bus to me and there’s no driver and the drivers around me are starting to annoy me. I’m already exhausted, after all the misadventures that day, getting in trouble alone again is the last thing I need. So I went back to the Cambodia Immigration center and I approached a foreigner guy and asked him wether I can join him and his friends. He gladly said ,YES. He said he’s just waiting for the other 2 tourists whom he just met, he asked me wether I have a place to stay already and I said none yet. I showed him a printed copy of what I researched online or rather what Marcos researched. It’s $3 at the Green House, “Pretty cheap,”he said, “let’s get to that then!” Then the Laos guesthouse on the paper caught his eyes. “You’re going to Laos??” “Yes, I hope, “I answered. He then offered to exchange his Laos money. He can’t exchange it outside Laos and he’s going home to US after 3 years so the money would be useless to him. I don’t have enough cash with me so I told him I’ll exchange it upon withdrawing cash in Cambodia. It’s just a few dollars, around 300B maybe. The 2 tourists are both from Ireland and they’ve been to the Philippines! We rode the tourist bus I saw earlier. The guy is really good looking (I think he looks like Brad Pitt but okay, she’s already with this beautiful simple African girl). They’re very friendly, they’re so excited to meet a Filipina traveling solo. I remember the Cambodian tour operator told me went I went back to Bangkok via the same route, “I rarely see Filipinos who travel, they come here to work”. He was right of course. Anyway, the 2 Irish backpackers just visited the Philippines. Donsol in Sorsogon, Mayon, Hundred Islands and other usual routes in the Lonely Planet Philippines guidebook. The bus ride took around 5 hours I was sitting beside Josh, the American guy I approached earlier. Saw him browse his passport. Cool! It’s overwhelming with stamps! “ Backpacking? “, I asked. “No, not actually, I’m based in Japan, as an English teacher. I travel from time to time and just feel like I should tour Asia before I head back home to the US. Finally! ” I saw the excitement glared in his eyes, finally being able to come home after all these years, ahhh that is complete happiness and that’s my dream too, tour the world and finally come home!!! Lesson 8. Whenever traveling, use your charm and join some other travelers in transit to the next destination if you feel it’s not safe to go solo, that’ll save you a lot and start new acquaintances or friendships. We stopped at a simple restaurant which is of course associated w/ the tour bus again. The food costs around 99B each and it’s all American dishes. Just like in the Philippines, bus companies would have an agreement with certain restaurants, they will agree to stop over there, in return the drivers will get free meals. I saw some tourists cross the street instead. I followed them but I didnt cross the street anymore. I am hungry for Cambodian street foods! I didn’t go all the way to Cambodia, just to eat all that American dishes we have back home! ” Ahhh…so this is Cambodia!“, I murmured as I chanced up with some small kids playing something like those Filipino games we used to play in the province, only that, theirs involves some cash. I didn’t know if I can take the food so I didn’t buy one, maybe I was distracted by the poor little chicks on a pen that are for sale and beside it lies dead chickens and it’s intestines. I am used to eating street foods in the Philippines, but it’s probably the way they cook it and grill it in Cambodia that’s not appealing to me, like the grilled chicken with it’s feet. Back home, chicken feet is sold separately. I bought 2 soft drinks in can instead. Thai street foods are still the best for me. Okay, so I was with Josh, the 2 Irish and the 2 American couples. They took out their LP guidebook and said we we’re in the wrong route. I was just smiling to myself, of course, this is a tourist bus, they will most likely take us to the guest house connected with the tour operators. But you’d be given a choice of course, to stay or find a room somewhere else. We arrive at 8PM already and we’re checking the rooms. But of course, I couldn’t share the room w/ Josh, so while they were looking for a bigger and better . I decided that I’d get my own space, at $5 a day for a fan room or $7 a day for an ac room, I could manage to survive in 1 week. Besides I couldn’t walk around in my undergarments or throw my things everywhere if I have a roommate. My room is just so messy whenever I travel. I didn’t see Josh and the rest of the guys anymore, except for one of the couples. She was talking to another tourist girl in the lobby whose been staying at the guesthouse to get an idea about the place, she said she got a good feedback. I thanked her and bid goodbye, and ask her to thank the rest of the guys for me. Okay, so that was so rude of me, joining those guys and not even bidding goodbye was my gravest mistake that day. tsk tsk. That’s Lesson 9! I contemplated on writing every detail of this overland because I feel like I’ll be putting myself in such a disgrace but I realized that announcing my STUPID mistake in public will help prevent another one. Makes me wanna plan my future travels to the max ! Being prepared may help prevent BLATANT STUPIDITY!!! Now that’s Lesson 10! Experience indeed is the most brutal of all teachers. But what I like about mishaps is, it keeps me down to my toes! Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2010 Gael Hilotin Travel safely with World Nomads Get the latest travel safety tips and advice from our partner, WorldNomads.com to help keep you travelling safely. Join the locals and have fun with our series of free language guides that contain around 30 basic phrases that you can download onto your iPod. About the Blogger : Gael is a Filipina solo adventurer, a dream chaser and a student of life. Her (mis) adventures are documented in this blog. Follow her on Facebook and Twitter. For advertisement, partnerships and sponsorship, click here. or email me at thepinaysolobackpacker(at)yahoo(dot)com Viewed 10022 times by 2833 viewers [...] tours, it was my 1st time to join a tour group (except when I was crossing the border in Thailand-Cambodia but that’s different since I didn’t really join them tour Siem Reap ). In Indonesia [...] [...] tours, it was my 1st time to join a tour group (except when I was crossing the border in Thailand-Cambodia but that’s different since I didn’t really join them tour Siem Reap during the late [...] It’s the foibles that make travel stories much more fun to share Believe me, I have my share of those, even after four years of traveling! Of course, it’s not always fun while it’s happening, but it’s great to be able to look back at it and laugh That’s actually a common occurence among Pinoys traveling overland from Thailand to Cambodia. I have a friend who took the same route, but unlike you, they were able to walk straight past passport control! They weren’t stamped into Cambodia, so when they lined up at immigration on the way back to Bangkok, they were fined for illegally staying in the country. So, don’t worry, worse things have happened and nobody was jailed (not yet at least lol) very basic yan na dapat you get your passport stammped pag pumasok ka sa isang country,what were they thinking or were they really thinking? pasali sa usapan ng mga pioneers.. Whoa! I thought the question: “How did you get here” is so stupid. yun pala they were right. haha I would be scared to death too if that will happen to me. Good thing I chose to cross from Moc Bai (vietnam border), the experience is more gentle. hallelujah! thanks gael for this advices.. it would really help a lot when travelling solo, ur so brave though.. More power to you! take care.. i miss thailand… well written blog. Im glad that I could find more info on this. thanks thanks for the links Naka panick attack na ako siguro kung nangyari sa akin. To think na pareho tayo na time pumunta sa Thailand – Cambodia pero di tayo nag kita, hehe. I like Siem Reap so much, the city’s character is very unique. I could just imagine being in your shoes at the immigration for 30 minutes. You’re fierce. lol. I might have cried. wow wow wow such a detailed travel log enjoyed reading this post =p well i have known almost all the lessons you mentioned above..hehehe XD anyway i miss angkor wat very much… wanna go back for the sunrise and sunset lol cant wait to read more posts of cambodia!! like your description =p You are one brave girl. I’ve always contemplated on crossing the Poipet border overland for the experience, but I was such chicken to do so – after having read too many horror stories regarding that border. Phnom Penh-to-Saigon, I have done so and vice versa. I’ve actually read that the Khmer immig officials are worse than the Thais, but the Vietnamese the worst, BUT Poipet takes the crown and the well deserved cake for being the most notorious. I’ve experienced decadent BKK politics last year, also during the Songkran – and yup, I got wet (not drenched) and had “chalk” stains on my face too. The red shirts always time their upheavals during the Songkran, so I was in similar dilemma last year. Would I go or cancel my trip altogether? I went – coz I was bound for Myanmar, so to scrap BKK was to scrap Myanmar. It wasn’t an acceptable option. Great narrative on your crossing. whats the name the siem reap hotel? looks clean enough thanks. Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends! i’ve read this specific entry a few weeks back but i don’t know why i missed lesson # 1… anyways, thanks for sharing what you know… it helped me a lot last week… popular hostel. sige ill keep that in mind. so what did you do in siem reap for 1 week? reading your blog made me confident that this solo trip to bangkok and thailand will just be fine.:) im set to leave the country this weekend, and what is initially a side-trip to siem reap becomes the highlight of my travel, m sooo lookng forward to it. but i only have 2 days to explore siem reap. much as id like to go around on my own on a bike, that’s quite impractical given the time constraint and being on my first visit. so m torn between taking the bou savy package tour for 2 days or renting a tuk2x. hmm, can u advise me on this? dd u hire a tuk2x on ur visit? how much dd u spend for the inner circuit? and for those far-off temples? hope u can help me on this. thanks much. Hi Gael, I enjoyed reading your post immensely and I’ll share it with a friend of mine who will cross the border to Cambodia next week. You post is very well written and I know it may have been a bit hard for you to post it thinking it’s embarassing. I feel for you. Keep those wonderful posts coming and you are definitely helping out fellow pinay backpackers who dare to go on little adventures themselves. You rock! I know! Let’s plan a trip one of these days. I’ll get in touch with you on FB. That should be fun. And I’m sure Kat would like that as well. Siya nag sinpire sakin pumunta ng Thailand eh. this remains to be the most remarkable post (or experience) you had. share ko sa forum ha. wag ka papalag! keep these BKK posts coming gael! hehe. can’t wait for our January trip! one month na lang, i need all the helpful tips i can get. hehe. not so sure if we’ll push through with Angkor Wat… kasi 7 days yung leave namin. feeling ko baka ma-rushed kami. i want to savor the moment pa naman sana and wish na may parang alone time. hehehe so many lessons learned but that’s what traveling does to us – after all, the world out there is one big university. one thing i do remember about traveling overland between thailand and cambodia is the abrupt change in infrastructure. from the smooth paved roads to hardly any road at all – i don’t know now but this was the reality back in 2005. anyway, the cambodians are indeed very friendly! Misadventures are the best part of traveling! hi there… your blogposts on BK-SR is very informative! i have learned so much and i know it will be very helpful on our upcoming trip this july… i hope you dont mind if i ask, since we’re quite tight on the sked, will 1day in cambodia be enough to tour the most popular temples/areas around angkor wat? tnx vmuch… Wow, I simply love this entry. Am a new visitor by the way, and I can’t help but smile and relate to experiences you had on your travels. I have the same experiences sometimes, especially the *immigration and questioning parts. Haha! I always tel nyself to relax but once am there, I tend to get overly nervous. Keep it up girl! Cheers! -Jenkz I enjoyed reading this post very well and smiled by some related experiences like Lessons 1, 5 and 6. And yes, I absolutely agree with “never to be in a hurry in one country as it defies the real essence of travelling”. This post is “einfach großartig” (simply great) and very informative. I will share this in fb. xoxo from sunny Berlin I would like to go to pnhom penh… where is the best way to ride after bangkok airport? hope i can get a reply… Need to travel on december… Many thanks! Hey Gael,thanks to CebuPac’s 11peso seat sale,I have 1 year to plan my Ho Chi Minh-Siem Riep trip well. We were on a panic mode when we booked the flight! Hahaha I remember your blog and just had to refer back to it. Thanks to your post, we just might be able to maximize our 3day trip! Whew. Hello Gael, Got here from Ate Ai´s blog, Travel.food.finds. And I love reading your blog. inabot na ako ng 1:43am and i still wanna read, pero kailangan muna matulog kasi may work pa bukas.hehhe. You´re so brave for travelling alone. You inspired me to travel more. God bless and more power! Im planning to go back to bkk and thinking of going to siem reap hopefully on my bday. This is very helpful Gael! Wish I’ll be lucky to cross cambodia too!
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Bancác i chaos, tá sé ar fud an nuacht agus tá mé clueless toisc nach bhfuil mé faire ar an teilifís le cúpla mí níos mó nó níos lú 2! Ní féidir liom mo eitilt ar ceal, bhí mé ag fanacht ar an turas seo ó mhí Eanáir, seachas, tá sé ina hassle mór ó íoc mé airgid thirim don airfare daor ó níl aon promo ar mo dátaí eitilt. Cé go mbeadh an chuid is mó turasóirí a chaitheamh 2-3 lá i Siem Bhaint as, roghnaigh mé chun fanacht ar feadh 1 seachtain. Mar a dúirt mé, tar éis mo thuras mear chun Ayutthaya , vowed mé riamh a bheith i Hurry i dtír amháin arís mar defies sé mór inneachar sár-fíor taisteal. An plána i dteagmháil léi síos ag 12 rn ag BKK aerfort , arís, ní raibh mé in ann a chlárú ar fánaíochta, mar sin tá mo ghuthán plain useless. Is maith roimh slept mé ag an aerfort go dtí éirí gréine. Bhí mé chomh réamh-áitithe i rith na míonna beaga anuas gur theip liom a phleanáil mo Chambóid turas, ní raibh mé a athrú fiú mo Peso le US $ roimh fhágáil na hOileáin Fhilipíneacha a raibh botún BIG! D'fhág mé aon rogha ach mo Peso a athrú go dtí US $ ag BKK aerfort, ach an fostaí ag an malartú airgid a dhiúltú rá, nach bhfuil sé go maith dom, tá Php100 thiontú go US $ 1! Ó, go maith, tá mé aon rogha. (more ...) Bhreathnaigh 9592 ag amanna 2756 lucht féachana