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There’s a directory on my machine called ~/Archives. It’s not exactly… organised. It contains bits and pieces from the last 20 or more years – and along with the usual documents, notes and datasheets on the 74 series TTL chipset (computer engineer and computer scientist had rather different flavours in TCD back then), there’s a fair amount of code. Some of that code I can remember, other bits I look at now and think “I wrote that? Eeek…” – but there’s a small amount of code that I look at and think “Hey, I wasn’t all bad back then”. Over the new year’s holiday, I was digging around in there and came across some bits and pieces from the latter category that I thought I’d put up here for kicks, seeing as how I’d put up stuff from the PhD work and other bits and bobs already. I’ll start with this one, it’s a token ring network simulator written in Erlang somewhere in the first half of my final year in college (so late 1996 to early 1997). Continue reading “Erlang Token Ring Simulator, updated” » A while back, I treated myself to a subscription to America’s Test Kitchen (which is basicly an internet magazine that tests pots, pans, mixers, knives, and all sorts of kitchen toolage, but they give you a side order of recipes from a sister site as well). One of the recipes they had was for a braised turkey dish, where you broke down the turkey, roasted it at a high temp for a while to brown the skin, then braised it to finish. Tried it, and it sortof worked – the turkey was like sponge instead of dry shoe leather. I knew I was cooking xmas dinner this year and I had an earlier recipe in mind as well, so I bought a few turkey breasts over a month or two and tested some ideas, and here’s the end result, which I used for this xmas’s dinner to some success. Warning: There’s no turkey skin. I don’t care – I think people who eat skin are wierd. So no complaints. Besides, there’s an easy solution. Buy a second turkey and roast that for the skin! To start with, my family rarely get to the legs during xmas dinner, and I really hate picking over carcasses for dark meat the next day, so I figured why waste it and I just ordered a turkey crown this year. Hell, herself and myself together can’t finish one turkey breast, so why not, especially when it wasn’t the only meat dish (there was beef wellington for xmas dinner as well). BTW, this recipe works well with just a turkey breast too, so for smaller roast-type-dinners this is pretty good too. My order didn’t quite go as cleanly as planned – to me, turkey crown means two breasts still attached to the keelbone, but with the rest of the carcass removed. To my butcher it means a turkey without the legs but everything else still attached. So I had to start with some basic butchery, and I just peeled the two breasts off the carcass. Normally I’d make stock with the carcass, but I’d saved a few litres of the stuff from the practice runs to make the jus without fuss today, so I just discarded it (it’s xmas, all my pots including the stock pot are in use – I don’t recommend this as a regular thing though, just chuck it in the stock pot and don’t waste it). First cooking step – brine the turkey. My brine consists of: - 4 litres of water - 1 cup of salt - 1/2 cup of golden castor sugar (any brown sugar would do) - 10 black peppercorns - a few sprigs of thyme - 10-12 juniper berries - 4-6 allspice berries - 4 bay leaves - a sprig or two of sage - a large orange, cut into quarters - 4 vegetable stock cubes (or stock pots – the “herb infusion” ones worked nicely here) Bring all this up to a boil, stirring to ensure everything dissolves (everything that will dissolve, that is, you’d be a while waiting for a sprig of thyme to dissolve), and then turn off the heat and let it cool. Meanwhile add a 2kg bag of ice to a suitable container (I use a plastic box, I’ve used a bucket and a stock pot in the past, but basicly something clean and waterproof). When the brine liquid has cooled fully (fully please, there’s no mess like a brine melting out of the container), add it to the ice and mix well; then add the turkey to the liquid. Close the container and stash it somewhere cool overnight (if you stash it outside – and I have – be sure the cat can’t get at it by weighting down the lid). The next day, take a deep roasting tin. I had to go search for mine, its a good 8.5cm deep. Your average roasting tin won’t cut it for turkey breasts (they’re usually fine for chicken though, and this should work for chicken too). Break down two large white onions, four or five ribs of celery and three or four carrots – exact amount depends on the size of the ribs/carrots, but you’re trying to end up with roughly equal amounts of all three (that’s not a standard mirepoix, but it works for this recipe). Mix these in the roasting tin (note that the tin here is cold; this isn’t a case of heating it in the oven and then chucking in ingredients, like you do with roast spuds). Now add in four or five cloves of garlic (cut in half and the bitter green spout removed, but not smashed or diced). Now remove the turkey from the brine, and rinse it with cold water. Careful not to splash too much, it’s still poultry and you still have to watch the hygiene, even if it’s not the dreaded chicken. Place the breasts, skin side up, on the mirepoix. I said there wasn’t any skin in this recipe, I didn’t mean we remove it before cooking. Liberally season the turkey and the mirepoix with salt and pepper, and add a few sprigs of thyme and sage over the turkey. Quarter another large orange and put the quarters at each corner of the tin; quarter a lemon and put each quarter at each side of the tin, so the turkey is covered in herbs and surrounded by citrus. Add a bay leaf too if you like that taste. I don’t time roasts or meats when cooking; instead I do the right thing and use a probe thermometer. So at this point, I stuck the probe into the deepest part of the larger breast. Best €30 I ever spent in my kitchen. Just saying. Now, make up some stock. I’ve used chicken stock from stock pots or cubes; and I’ve used vegetable as well; this time though, I had a few litres of turkey stock saved up from the last practice run, so I used most of that instead (I saved about a half-litre, I’ll explain why later). I added all the stock to the roasting tin, and then topped it up with water until the liquid just covered the turkey (this is why you need the deep tin). Then I covered the tin with a double thickness of tinfoil and crimped it to the tin as solidly as I could, making sure the thermometer lead was feeding out okay. Now, into the oven, set your thermometer alarm for 160F (72C) and turn the oven on (from cold) to 100C (212F) (you can use any temperature down to about 80C but modern ovens and low temperatures don’t mix so well and 100C is about as far as I can push mine). Yes, that’s low. Don’t worry – when the meat hits 160F internal, it’s done and perfectly safe and white, all will be well. Now, close oven door, and go away for, oh, around three hours. That’s why the thermometer has an audible alarm – you no longer have anything to do here. No turning, no basting, no worries at all. Just leave the thing, it’s fine. After the three or so hours, when the meat hits 160F internal, take it out of the oven (btw, if it goes up higher because you were busy, it’s more or less okay to about 170F – beyond that, you’re back into tough chewy leather territory, and all this effort has been wasted). Set it aside on a trivot/silicone heat mat/cork mat/table you don’t mind destroying with heat from the roasting tin. And just leave it. At any point for the next hour or two, that turkey will remain at a nice hot temperature and be ready to serve, but if you have roast spuds or anything like that to do, just go do them now and leave the turkey sit there. It’ll stay hot and not dry out, it’ll be fine. When you’re ready, remove the turkey from the braising liquid, remove the skin and discard (it’ll be pallid and unpleasant looking anyway, so just chuck it – it’s not waste anyway, because its collagen is in the braising liquid, more on that in a moment). Now carve into thick, 1-cm-at-least, slices and serve. It’ll be juicy, tender and you won’t ever roast another turkey again (unless you’re one of those skin-loving freaks) Now, about that braising liquid. Take it, strain it, squeezing those veggies to get everything out. Chuck the strained-out solids, they’re now useless. Now, you have two options with the liquid (And you can mix and match them). - Take a small saucepan, add a few tablespoons of butter, melt it over medium heat, then add in flour a teaspoon at a time, stirring all the while until this basic roux comes together; when it does, add a cup of the liquid and whisk to form a jus. Add more liquid until you get the desired consistency. Serve over the turkey. - Take the liquid and pour it into a large container and put that in your freezer until it freezes into a solid block. Take this solid block, wrap it in muslin or cheesecloth, and set it in a collander over a bowl until it melts completely, giving you a muslin full of turkey schmaltz (which you could use for cooking if you’re not squeamish – chicken schmaltz is a big part of some classic ethnic jewish dishes), and a bowl full of crystal-clear turkey stock, which you can re-freeze in smaller containers for future use. (I used this for cooking the xmas turkey and making the jus so that I could make the jus while the turkey was still sitting in the roasting tin unopened). There you go – really moist turkey and jus and turkey stock to play with afterwards. Enjoy!
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A tamall ó shin, déileálfar mé mé féin le suibscríobh chuig Tástáil Cistine Meiriceá (atá basicly ina iris idirlín go tástálacha potaí, pannaí, mixers, sceana, agus gach cineál toolage cistine, ach a thabhairt duit siad ordú taobh oidis ó deirfiúr suíomh chomh maith). Ceann de na oidis a bhí siad a bhí le haghaidh mhias turcaí Braised, nuair a bhris tú síos an turcaí, rósta sé ag teocht ard ar feadh tamaill go dtí donn ar an gcraiceann, ansin Braised é a chríochnú. Iarracht é, agus d'oibrigh sé sortof - bhí turcaí mhaith spúinse ionad de leathar bróg tirim. Bhí a fhios agam go raibh mé ag cócaireacht xmas dinnéar i mbliana agus bhí mé an t-oideas níos luaithe i gcuimhne chomh maith, mar sin cheannaigh mé breasts turcaí cúpla thar na míosa nó dhó agus a thástáil roinnt smaointe, agus anseo tá an toradh deiridh, a úsáidtear mé don dinnéar seo xmas ar le roinnt rath. Rabhadh: Níl aon craiceann turcaí. Ní féidir liom cúram - Sílim go bhfuil daoine a itheann craiceann aisteach. Mar sin, aon ghearáin. Thairis sin, níl réiteach éasca. Ceannaigh an dara turcaí rósta gur le haghaidh an craiceann! Chun tús a chur leis, mo theaghlach is annamh a fháil chun na cosa le linn xmas dinnéar, agus is fuath liom i ndáiríre ag piocadh thar conablaigh haghaidh feoil dorcha an lá dár gcionn, mar sin figured mé cén fáth dramhaíola air agus d'ordaigh mé díreach tar coróin turcaí i mbliana. Ifreann, ní féidir í féin agus mé féin a chríochnú le chéile chíche turcaí amháin, mar sin cén fáth nach bhfuil, go háirithe nuair nach raibh sé ar an mhias feoil amháin (ní raibh wellington mairteola le haghaidh xmas dinnéar chomh maith). BTW, oibríonn an t-oideas maith leis ach chíche turcaí ró-, mar sin do níos lú rósta-cineál-dinnéir é seo maith go leor freisin. Ní raibh mo ordú a théann go leor mar cleanly mar a bhí beartaithe - dom, ciallaíonn choróin turcaí dhá breasts fós ag gabháil leis an keelbone, ach leis an gcuid eile den chonablach bhaint astu. Do mo búistéir ciallaíonn sé turcaí gan na cosa, ach gach rud eile ceangailte go fóill. Mar sin, bhí orm tús a chur le roinnt Búistéireacht bunúsacha, agus scafa mé díreach tar éis an dá breasts as an conablach. De ghnáth ba mhaith liom stoic leis an conablach a dhéanamh, ach ba mhaith shábháil mé cúpla lítear de na rudaí as an gcleachtas ritheann a dhéanamh ar an jus gan fuss lá atá inniu ann, mar sin a chaitheamh i leataobh mé díreach tar éis é (tá sé xmas, tá gach mo potaí lena n-áirítear an stoc phota in úsáid - nach féidir liom a mholadh seo mar rud rialta áfach, ach Chuck sé i stoc phota agus nach dramhaíola é). An chéad chéim cócaireachta - sháile an turcaí. Is éard atá mo sáile de: - 4 lítear uisce - 1 cupán salann - 1/2 cupán siúcra ola órga (a bheadh aon siúcra donn a dhéanamh) - 10 peppercorns dubh - cúpla sprigs thyme - 10-12 caora aitil - 4-6 caora allspice - 4 duilleoga bhá - sprig nó dhá cheann de saoi - oráiste mór, gearrtha i cheathrú - 4 ciúbanna stoic glasraí (nó potaí stoc - D'oibrigh an "insileadh luibh" cinn nicely anseo) Tabhair seo go léir suas go dtí boil, stirring chun a chinntiú go dissolves gach rud (gach rud a dhíscaoileadh, is é sin, gur mhaith leat a bheith ar feadh tamaill fanacht le sprig de thyme a dhíscaoileadh), agus ansin mhúchadh an teas agus lig cool sé. Idir an dá linn add a mála 2kg de oighir le coimeádán oiriúnach (a úsáid mé bosca plaisteach, Bainim úsáid as buicéad agus pota stoc san am atá caite, ach basicly rud éigin glan agus uiscedhíonach). Nuair a bheidh an leacht cooled go hiomlán sáile (go hiomlán le do thoil, níl aon praiseach cosúil le leá sáile amach as an gcoimeádán), é a chur leis an oighear agus meascán maith; ansin cuir an turcaí chun an leacht. Dún an gcoimeádán agus stash sé thar oíche áit éigin fionnuar (má tá tú stash sé taobh amuigh - agus tá mé - a bheith cinnte nach féidir leis an cat a fháil ar sé ag ualú síos an clúdach). An lá dár gcionn, a chur stáin róstadh domhain. Bhí mé cuardaigh chun dul chun mianach, a bhfuil dea-8.5cm domhain. Ní bheidh do stáin róstadh an meán a ghearradh air do breasts turcaí (tá siad go breá de ghnáth le haghaidh sicín áfach, agus ba chóir é seo ag obair le haghaidh sicín ró-). Briseadh síos dhá oinniúin mór bán, ceithre nó cúig easnacha soilire agus trí nó ceithre cairéid - braitheann méid cruinn ar an méid de na easnacha / cairéid, ach go bhfuil tú ag iarraidh a deireadh suas le méideanna cothrom, de na trí cinn (ní ar sin mirepoix caighdeánach, ach oibríonn sé seo an t-oideas). Measc na i stáin róstadh (faoi deara go bhfuil an stáin anseo fuar; nach bhfuil an cás de théamh sé san oigheann agus ansin chucking i gcomhábhar, mar a dhéanann tú le prátaí rósta). Anois cuir i ceithre nó cúig clóibh de garlic (gearrtha i leath agus an spout glas searbh bhaint, ach ní smashed nó diced). Anois bain an turcaí as an sáile, agus nigh sé le huisce fuar. Cúramach gan splancscáileán i bhfad ró-, tá sé fós éanlaithe agus tá tú fós chun féachaint ar an sláinteachas, fiú amháin más rud é nach bhfuil sé an sicín dreaded. Cuir an breasts, taobh craiceann suas, ar an mirepoix. Dúirt mé nach raibh aon craiceann i an t-oideas, ní raibh mé chiallaíonn againn a bhaint di roimh an chócaireacht. Liberally séasúr an turcaí agus an mirepoix le salann agus piobar, agus cuir cúpla sprigs thyme agus saoi thar an turcaí. Ceathrú eile oráiste mór agus a chur ar an cheathrú ag gach cúinne den stáin; ráithe líomóid agus a chur ar gach ráithe ar gach taobh den stáin, mar sin tá an turcaí clúdaithe i luibheanna agus timpeallaithe ag citris. Cuir duille bá ró más mian leat go bhfuil blas. Ní féidir liom ham feoil rósta nó meats agus tú ag cócaireacht; ina ionad sin is féidir liom an rud ceart agus a úsáid teirmiméadar probe. Mar sin, ag an bpointe seo, bhfostú mé an probe isteach sa chuid is doimhne den chíche níos mó. BTW: Fearr € 30 Chaith mé riamh i mo chistin. Just a rá. Anois, a dhéanamh suas roinnt stoc. Bainim úsáid as stoc cearc ó potaí stoc nó ciúbanna; agus tá mé úsáid as glasraí chomh maith; an uair seo, áfach, bhí mé cúpla lítear de stoc turcaí shábháil suas as an rith gcleachtas seo caite, mar sin úsáid mé an chuid is mó de sin in ionad (shábháil mé thart ar leath-lítear, beidh mé a mhíniú cén fáth níos déanaí). Chuir mé go léir an stoc go dtí an stáin róstadh, agus ansin topped sé suas le huisce go dtí an leacht atá clúdaithe ach an turcaí (is é sin an fáth is gá duit ar an stáin domhain). Ansin, clúdaithe mé an stáin le tiús dúbailte de scragall stáin agus crimped sé leis an stáin chomh daingean is a thiocfadh liom, ag déanamh cinnte go raibh an luaidhe teirmiméadar bheathú amach ceart go leor. Anois, isteach san oigheann, a leagtar do aláraim teirmiméadar do 160F (72C) agus cas ar an oigheann ar (ó fuar) go 100C (212F) (is féidir leat é a úsáid ar aon teocht síos go dtí thart ar 80C ach oighinn nua-aimseartha agus teocht íseal ná mheascadh mar sin go maith agus tá 100C faoi chomh fada agus is féidir liom a bhrú mianach). Tá, go íseal. Ná bíodh imní ort - nuair a bhuaileann an fheoil 160F inmheánach, tá sé déanta agus breá sábháilte agus bán, beidh gach a bheith go maith. Anois, doras an oighinn dhúnadh, agus dul amach le haghaidh, OH, thart ar thrí uair an chloig. Sin an fáth go bhfuil aláram inchloiste an teirmiméadar - leat a thuilleadh aon rud a dhéanamh anseo. Uimh casadh, gan aon basting, aon imní ar chor ar bith. Just a fhágáil ar an rud, tá sé fíneáil. Tar éis na trí uair an chloig nó mar sin, nuair a bhuaileann an fheoil 160F inmheánach, é a chur amach as an oigheann (btw, má théann sé suas níos airde toisc go raibh tú gnóthach, tá sé níos mó nó níos lú ceart go leor go dtí thart ar 170F - níos faide ná sin, tá tú ar ais i Tá diana chríoch leathair chewy, agus iarracht seo go léir curtha amú). Socraigh ar leataobh ar trivot / silicone teasa mata / mata corc / tábla nach miste leat a scriosadh le teas ó na stáin róstadh. Agus fhágáil díreach é. Ag pointe ar bith le haghaidh an uair seo chugainn nó dhó, go mbeidh turcaí fanacht ag teocht deas te agus a bheith réidh chun freastal, ach má tá tú prátaí rósta nó aon rud mar sin a dhéanamh, téigh díreach a dhéanamh iad anois agus a fhágáil ar an turcaí suí ansin. Beidh sé fanacht te agus ní tirim amach, beidh sé a bheith fíneáil. Nuair atá tú réidh, bain an turcaí as an leacht braising, bain an craiceann agus a shábháil (beidh sé a bheith pallid agus unpleasant ag lorg ar aon nós, agus mar sin ach Chuck sé - nach bhfuil sé ar aon nós dramhaíl, toisc go bhfuil a collagen sa leacht braising, níos mó ar an láthair i). Anois, carve isteach tiubh, 1-cm ag--a laghad, slices agus a sheirbheáil. Beidh sé a bheith juicy, tairisceana agus ní bheidh tú riamh rósta turcaí eile arís (ach amháin má tá tú ceann de na freaks craicinn-grámhara) Anois, mar gheall ar an leacht braising. Tóg é, brú air, Fáscadh iad siúd veggies gach rud a fháil amach. Chuck na solaid strained-amach, tá siad anois useless. Anois, tá dhá rogha leis an leacht (Agus is féidir leat a mheascadh agus a mheaitseáil iad). - Tóg sáspan beag, add a spúnóg roinnt de im, melt sé os cionn mheán teas, ansin cuir i teaspoon plúr ag an am, stirring go léir le tamall go dtí go dtiocfaidh an Roux bunúsacha le chéile; nuair a dhéanann sé, add a cupán an leachta agus whisk chun foirm a jus. Cuir níos mó leacht go dtí go bhfaigheann tú an chomhsheasmhacht atá ag teastáil. Freastal os cionn an turcaí. - Tóg an leacht agus é Doirt isteach i ngabhdán mór agus a chur go bhfuil i do reoiteoir dtí go reonn sé isteach i mbloc soladach. Tóg an bloc soladach, Timfhilleadh sé i muslin nó cheesecloth, agus atá leagtha sé i collander thar babhla go dtí go leánn sé go hiomlán, a thabhairt duit muslin iomlán de schmaltz turcaí (a d'fhéadfaí tú a úsáid le haghaidh cócaireachta más rud é nach bhfuil tú squeamish - schmaltz sicín Is cuid mhór de roinnt miasa eitneach Giúdach clasaiceach), agus Bowl iomlán de stoc criostail-soiléir turcaí, ar féidir leat a ath-reo i gcoimeádáin níos lú lena n-úsáid sa todhchaí. (A úsáidtear mé é seo do chócaireacht an turcaí xmas agus ag déanamh na jus ionas go raibh mé in ann a dhéanamh ar na jus cé go raibh an turcaí ina suí fós sa stáin róstadh gan oscailt). Tá tú ag dul - turcaí agus jus ndáiríre tais agus stoc turcaí a imirt leis ina dhiaidh. Bain sult as! Cosúil le seo: Cosúil luchtú ...