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This post is also available in: Croatian For the first lesson in our Back to Basics school I chose, quite expectedly, the topic of covering extreme under-eye circles. Since the post describing my troubles in this area (which you can see HERE) was very popular, it’s pretty clear that this a problem we all share so I hope today’s post will be useful to many of you out there. There are many ways of covering under-eye circles, and today I would like to show you the method I use when I want perfectly covered under-eyes and the products I use for achieving this effect. Of course this isn’t the only way, and maybe for someone else it won’t be the best one, but in my case it works really well. One more thing I’d like to point out is that I don’t do this every day. Mostly I just wear a skin-toned concealer and pressed powder, but since I have very dark circles no concealer by itself can cover them as well as the combination of products that you’ll see here today. I’ll try to be short and sweet with the explanations and throw in just an additional tip here and there where I think it might be helpful. So let’s get on with it, shall we :). First and foremost, it’s crucial to moisturise your under-eye area really well. At the moment I’m using a Eucerin eye cream, but you can use anything you like. The main thing to look out for is that it isn’t too greasy (or your concealer won’t sit nicely on top) and that you leave enough time for it to absorb into your skin before you start applying makeup (at least 10-15 minutes). If your under-eye area is dry, concealer won’t blend nicely, you’ll get that awful cakey effect and every little fine line you have there will be three time more visible. So, moisturise well! Let me now introduce you to my under-eye circles (don’t worry, they don’t bite! :)) They’re hollow and very dark and usually have a purple-bluish tint to them. They’re genetic and always present no matter how much sleep I’m getting and what my daily horoscope is. A note to all of you that might think “well they’re not that bad”: good lighting and the angle at which this photo was taken made them a bit less visible here, trust me when I tell you that in reality they look even worse. Also please pay no attention to my eyebrows in this post. They’re not plucked and I filled them in really fast, I know they’re a bit messy, you’ll forgive me I’m sure :). In the case of extremely dark circles it is necessary to first use a corrector to neutralise the darkness. When choosing the right corrective shade, you have to first take a very good look at your under eyes, and then consult a colour wheel. Since complementary colours cancel each other out, choose the colour that is directly opposite the colour of your under-eye circles. That’s the theory of it. Of course in practice it’s sometimes a bit hard to identify the shade of your under-eye circles and it’s a bit of a process of trial or error to find the corrective shade that best suits you. On the colour wheel we see that for blue the complimentary colour is orange, while for purple, it’s yellow. The shade of my circles is actually something in between these two. However a yellow corrector looks pretty obvious on them and is rather difficult to cover up with a skin-toned concealer later on so I prefer using a peachy corrector. The product I use for this purpose is Illamasqua Cream Pigment Emerge which I apply with a smaller synthetic brush. The one you see here is the Sephora Professionnel #26 eyeshadow brush. I prefer using a smaller brush such as this one because it gives me better precision. It’s important to apply the corrector only on the area which is the darkest and not on the whole under-eye area. On the photo you can see that with me this is on the inner sides along my nose where my circles are deeply “cut into” the skin and in the inner corners of the eyes. It’s also important not to go overboard with how much corrector you apply and to use only a minimum, thin layer which you’ll be able to blend easily by tapping your ring finger on our skin (don’t rub back and forth cause that way you’re only removing the product and at the same time pulling on the delicate and very sensitive skin around your eyes). As you can see, the purple-blue tones under my eyes have now disappeared. The area we have covered is visibly peachy, but don’t worry about it, we’ll deal with that in the next step. For today’s lesson I used the Maybelline Fit Me #15 concealer (a detailed review of which can be found HERE). What I wish to stress is that regardless of whether you use a liquid or cream concealer, it’s best if you try to find a concealer shade closest to your skin tone, while an identical tone wold of course be ideal. There is another method of applying concealer which is very popular nowadays, the so-called Kim Kardashian method, in which concealer which is lighter than your skin tone is applied in the shape of a triangle on the entire under-eye area to lighten it and give it a visual lift. However, with hollow under-eye circles like mine this does not work because this way I only further accentuate both the parts of the skin which are concave and the ones which are convex. That’s why in this step I choose a shade which is identical to my skin tone, while if I want to, I can play around with a lighter shade in my next step. For applying my concealer here I used a flat synthetic concealer brush from EcoTools, but I’ll go in much more detail on the different concealer brushes you can use in my Brushes 101 posts. Apply the concealer in a few dots and then take the brush and with patting motions distribute the product on the entire under-eye area, paying special attention to the inner and outer corners of your eyes. If your concealer is very liquidy and runny, wait for a few seconds for it to dry a bit and become tacky before starting to tap, tap, tap with your brush. That way it will thicken up a bit and you’ll achieve better coverage. You can use the warmth of your fingers to blend the edges for it to disappear seamlessly into the surrounding skin. In this step, just like in the previous one, it’s important that you don’t use too much product. Rather use less, blend, and then if you think you need more, add and blend once again. That way you’ll avoid getting a thick, visible layer of cakey concealer and achieve a more natural look. As you can see with this step we’ve already achieved very good coverage on the left side compared to the right side which isn’t covered. Although with under-eye circles which are hollow like mine are you will never be able to achieve for that line between the convex and the concave parts of your skin to become completely invisible, there is one more little trick that you can do to mask that transition area a bit more and make it less noticeable. For this last step you’ll need an illuminator. The most famous illuminator out there is the YSL Touche Eclat, but you can use any brand, mine is Lancome Teint Miracle #02. The important thing is that it be a shade lighter than your skin tone, and maybe a bit on the pinky side which will contribute to making the area you apply it to appear a bit fresher. I apply the illuminator very sparingly and only along the part of the under-eye circle which is cut into the skin, along the line itself. By placing a lighter colour on the concave part, I’m visually lifting it, following the same principle that is used when contouring any other part of your face, whether it be your cheekbones or you eye crease. The area on which you apply the darker colour looks farther away and more deep-set, while the area where you apply a lighter colour is brought forward. To all of you who don’t have deep set under-eye circles like mine but rather prominent eye bags I suggest you watch this Youtube tutorial by makeup artist Wayne Goss explaining in detail where to place the illuminator in your case. The last step is to set the concealer with powder, whether loose or pressed. With loose powder you’ll get a lighter layer and a bit more natural effect, but since I wear contact lenses I prefer using pressed powder, otherwise I always end up with powder in my eyes. For setting I like using a flat foundation brush from Ecotools rather than a powder puff or sponge because it enables me to apply the powder in a very thin layer (for this you can also use a fluffy blending brush). An additional small piece of advice I have for you is not to set the concealer immediately bit to leave it to sit on the skin a bit. Usually after I go through all the described steps I’ll move on to applying my eye shadow base and doing my brows, and only after I’m done with those two, I’ll come back to set my concealer with powder. Why you ask? Because in the meantime it has time to sink into the skin. At this time you might see little fine lines of concealer gathered in places where the product has sunk into your wrinkles if you over-applied. You can use your finger to just tap and smooth out those lines a bit and then move on to applying powder on top. Here I must mention that some people don’t like setting their concealer with powder at all. Although you achieve a more natural look this way I find this doesn’t work for me, for two reasons. First, because if I don’t set the concealer with powder it sinks into my fine lines throughout the day and that looks just plain awful and second, because if I don’t set it, my eye makeup smudges from my lower lash line all over my eye area. Since I don’t usually wear liquid foundation, after setting my concealer, I apply pressed powder to the rest of my face and my base is done. If you do wear foundation, you can apply your under-eye concealer either before or after your foundation, it’s your choice. However to me it seems simpler to first apply your foundation and blend it all over your face while avoiding the eye area, and then apply your concealer taking care to blend the edges into your foundation, and finish off by setting everything with a loose or pressed powder. To finish up, one more photo of the end result: on your left is the covered under-eye circle, on your right is the under-eye with no makeup on. I think the difference is more than obvious. For the finished effect I still need to apply my pressed powder on my entire face to even out my skin tone, here I have nothing on. And that’s about it. It might seem to you like all these steps are a lot of work but once you get the hang of it, it really is done in just a couple of minutes. I tried explaining everything in detail, I hope I succeeded. If I’ve forgotten anything or you have any more questions, write to me in the comments. And I’d love to hear how you liked out first Back to Basics lesson…would you change anything? add to it? subtract?
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This post is also available in: English Za prvu lekciju u našoj Back to Basics školici odabrala sam, sasvim očekivano, temu prekrivanja vrlo tamnih podočnjaka. S obzirom na vaše reakcije na moje žalopojke o podočnjacima u OVOM postu, jasno mi je da ovaj problem muči veliki broj vas pa se nadam da će vam današnji post biti od koristi. Načina za prekrivanje podočnjaka ima raznih, a danas vam želim predstaviti kako to ja radim kada želim savršeno prekrivene podočnjake kao i proizvode koje za to koristim. Naravno da ovaj način nije jedini, a možda za nekog drugog ne bude ni najbolji, ali u mojem slučaju jako dobro funkcionira. Želim još napomenuti da ovaj postupak ne radim svaki dan. Najčešće nosim samo korektor u boji kože + puder u kamenu, ali s obzirom da imam vrlo tamne podočnjake ni jedan korektor ih sam po sebi ne može prekriti tako dobro kao kombinacija proizvoda koje ćete vidjeti danas. Nastojat ću biti što kraća i jasnija u objašnjenjima i ubaciti tu i tamo neki dodatni mali savjet koji mislim da bi vam mogao biti koristan. Pa krenimo :). Prvo i osnovno je dobro hidratizirati okoloočno područje. Ja trenutačno koristim ovu kremu od Eucerina, ali to može biti bilo koja druga. Bitno je da ne bude premasna (inače vam korektor neće lijepo sjedati na nju) i da ostavite dovoljno vremena da se upije u kožu prije početka nanošenja šminke (najmanje 10-15 minuta). Ako vam je okoloočno područje suho, korektor se neće moći lijepo izblendati i dobit ćete onaj zloglasni cakey efekt, a svaka borica će biti još tri puta vidljivija. Dakle, hidratacija je obavezna! Molim vas pobliže upoznajte moje podočnjake (nemojte se prestrašiti, ne grizu! :)) Oni su udubljeni i vrlo tamni i najčešće ljubičasto-plavičaste boje. Genetski su i uvijek prisutni bez obzira na količinu sna i moj dnevni horoskop. Napomena za sve koji pomisle „joj pa nisu tako strašni“: dobro svijetlo i kut pri fotkanju ih ovdje čini manje vidljivima, vjerujte mi na riječ kad vam kažem da u stvarnosti izgledaju još gore. Također vas molim da u današnjoj lekciji zanemarite moje obrve. Nepočupane su i popunila sam ih na brzinu, znam da su malo neuredne, oprostit ćete mi :). U slučaju vrlo tamnih podočnjaka podočnjake je potrebno prvo prekriti korektivnom nijansom kako bi ih neutralizirali (da ne bi bilo zabune, na engleskom je to „Corrector“, dok se ono što mi uobičajeno nazivamo korektorom u boji kože inače zove „Concealer“). Pri odabiru korektivne nijanse prvo treba dobro promotriti boju podočnjaka, a zatim se konzultirati s krugom boja i odabrati nijansu koja se nalazi direktno nasuprot boji vaših podočnjaka jer se komplementarne boje međusobno poništavaju. To je teorija. Naravno, u praksi je ponekad teško odrediti svoju boju podočnjaka i morat ćete malo pribjeći metodi pokušaja i pogreške kako bi našli koja vam korektivna nijansa najbolje odgovara. Na krugu boja vidimo da je plavoj boji komplementarna narančasta, dok je ljubičastoj žuta. Boja mojih podočnjaka je međutim nešto između ove dvije, žuta korektivna nijansa na njima izgleda dosta očito i teško ju je kasnije prekriti korektorom u boji kože pa zato radije koristim breskvastu korektivnu nijansu. Proizvod koji ja koristim je Illamasqua kremasti pigment Emerge kojeg nanosim manjim sintetičkim kistom. Ovaj na slici je Sephora Professionnel #26 kist za sjenila. Preferiram koristiti ovakav manji kist zato što mi omogućava veću preciznost. Naime važno je da korektivnu nijansu nanesete samo na ono područje koje vam je najtamnije, a ne na cijelo okoloočno područje. Na slici vidite da je to kod mene s unutarnje strane uz nos tamo gdje su mi podočnjaci najviše „usječeni“ u kožu i u samom unutarnjem kutu oka. Također je bitno da ne pretjerujete s količinom proizvoda već ga nanesete u minimalnom, tankom sloju kojeg ćete lako izblendati utapkavajući prstom po koži (nemojte ga razmazivati jer ga tako samo skidate, a usput i povlačite tanku kožu koja je vrlo osjetljiva). Kao što možete vidjeti sa slike, ljubičasto plavetnilo ispod oka je sada nestalo. Područje koje smo prekrili je vidljivo breskvasto, ali ne brinite, to ćemo srediti u idućem koraku. Za potrebe današnje lekcije u ovom idućem koraku sam koristila Maybelline Fit Me #15 korektor (čiju detaljnu recenziju možete pročitati OVDJE). Ono što bih htjela istaknuti jest to da bez obzira koristite li tekući ili kremasti korektor najbolje je da pokušate naći korektor u nijansi koja je najsličnija boji vaše kože, a idealno bi bilo da je identična. Postoji i jedan drugi način nanošenja korektora koji je vrlo popularan tzv. Kim Kardashian način u kojem se korektor koji je svjetliji od boje vašeg tena nanosi u obliku trokuta na cjelokupno okoloočno područje kako bi ga se posvijetlilo i vizualno „podiglo“. I dok na mnogima ova metoda daje jako lijepe rezultate, kod usječenih podočnjaka poput mojih to ne funkcionira jer na taj način samo dodatno naglašavam i dijelove koji su udubljeni i one koji su ispupčeni. Zato u ovom koraku biram nijansu koja je identična mojoj boji tena, a nešto svjetlijom se mogu eventualno poigrati u idućem koraku. Za nanošenje korektora koristila sam EcoTools sintetički plosnati kist za korektor, a više riječi o različitim kistovima koje možete koristiti u ovu svrhu bit će u Brushes 101 postovima. Korektor nanesite na kožu u par točaka, a zatim ga kistom tapkajućim pokretima raspodijelite po cijelom okoloočnom području, pridajući posebnu pažnju unutarnjim i vanjskim kutevima oka. Ako vam je korektor izrazito rijedak pričekajte par sekundi da se mrvicu osuši prije nego ga počnete utapkavati. Tako će se malo zgusnuti i postići ćete bolje prekrivanje. Rubove možete dodatno izblendati prstima kako bi se što bolje stopili s okolnom kožom. I ovom koraku, jednako kao i u prethodnom, bitno je da ne pretjerujete s količinom proizvoda. Radije stavite manje, izblendajte, pa ako mislite da trebate još, dodajte i ponovno dobro izblendajte. Tako ćete izbjeći predebeli, vidljivi sloj korektora i postići što prirodniji izgled. Kao što vidite s ovim korakom smo već postigli jako dobro prekrivanje podočnjaka s vaše lijeve strane u usporedbi s desnim koji nije prekriven. Iako kod „usječenih“ podočnjaka poput mojih nikada nećete moći postići da vam crta između udubljenih i ispupčenih dijelova kože postane potpuno nevidljiva, postoji još jedan mali trik kojim se možemo poslužiti ako želimo taj prijelaz dodatno vizualno zamaskirati. Za taj korak je potreban korektor-posvjetljivač. Najpoznatiji takav je YSL Touche Eclat, ali može biti bilo koji, moj je Lancome Teint Miracle #02. Bitno je da bude za nijansu svjetliji od vašeg tena, a može biti i malo rozikast što će doprinijeti da dio na koji ga nanesete dodatno osvježite. Posvjetljivač nanosim u jako maloj količini i to isključivo duž dijela podočnjaka koji je najviše udubljen, na samu crtu. Stavljajući svjetliju boju na udubljenje postižem da se ono vizualno „podigne“, po istom principu po kojem se radi konturiranje na bilo kojem drugom dijelu lica, bilo jagodičnim kostima na obrazima ili na pregibu kapka. Dio na koji nanesemo tamniju boju vizualno udaljavamo, a dio na koji stavimo svjetliju boju vizualno privlačimo. Tako će nam i korektor-posvjetljivač pomoći da najudubljeniji dio podočnjaka vizualno privučemo da izgleda manje udubljen. Svima vama koji nemate udubljene podočnjake poput mene, već vrećice koje su ispupčene, savjetujem da pogledate OVAJ Youtube tutorijal vizažista Wayne Gossa u kojem detaljno objašnjava gdje treba nanijeti posvjetljivač u vašem slučaju. Posljednji korak je fiksiranje korektora puderom, bilo puderom u prahu ili u kamenu. S puderom u prahu ćete dobiti nešto laganiji nanos i malo prirodniji izgled međutim s obzirom da ja nosim kontaktne leće preferiram koristiti puder u kamenu inače mi on redovito završi u očima. Za fiksiranje volim upotrijebiti Ecotools plosnati kist za tekući puder radije nego spužvicu jer njime puder mogu nanijeti u tankom sloju (za ovo možete koristiti i neki fluffy kist za blendanje). Dodatni mali savjet koji imam za vas je da ne fiksirate korektor odmah već ga ostavite da „sjedne“ malo. Ja obično nakon što završim sa svim prethodnim koracima, krenem na nanošenje baze za sjenilo i uređivanje obrva, a tek nakon što napravim to dvoje se vratim fiksirati korektor. Zašto? Jer se on međuvremenu upije u kožu. Pritom vam se mogu pojaviti male crtice na mjestima gdje se uvukao u borice ako je bilo viška proizvoda. Ta ćete mjesta malo potapkati prstom i poravnati prije nanošenja pudera u prahu. Ovdje moram napomenuti da neki uopće ne fiksiraju korektor puderom u prahu/kamenu. Iako time postižete prirodniji izgled nalazim da kod mene to ne funkcionira i to iz dva razloga. Kao prvo, zato što mi se ako ga ne fiksiram korektor tijekom dana stalno uvlači u borice i to izgleda ružno i kao drugo, zato što mi se onda šminka nanesena uz donji rub kapaka na očima dosta mrlja ispod očiju. S obzirom da ja inače ne nosim tekući puder, nakon fiksiranja korektora na podočnjacima, puder u kamenu samo nanesem i na ostatak lica i s time je moja „baza“ gotova. Ako nosite tekući puder, korektor na podočnjacima možete po želji nanijeti ili prije ili poslije tekućeg pudera. Meni se doduše čini jednostavnijim prvo nanijeti tekući puder i izblendati ga po cijelom licu izbjegavajući područje oko očiju, a zatim prekriti podočnjake blendajući rubove korektora u tekući puder i na kraju sve fiksirati puderom u prahu/kamenu. Za kraj još jedna fotka konačnog rezultata: s vaše lijeve strane je prekriveni podočnjak, a s vaše desne je podočnjak bez šminke. Mislim da je razlika i više nego očigledna. Za završni efekt naravno nedostaje još puder u kamenu na kompletnom licu kako bi se cijeli ten izjednačio, ovdje nemam ništa. I to bi bilo to. Možda vam se svi ovi koraci sada ovako na prvu čine kao jako puno posla, ali jednom kad se ispraksate sve to ide zaista brzo i gotovo je u par minuta. Trudila sam se sve detaljno objasniti, ako sam štogod zaboravila ili vas nešto još dodatno zanima, pišite mi u komentarima. I obavezno mi recite kako vam se svidjela ova prva lekcija naše Back to Basics školice…bi li što mijenjali? …izbacili? slušam!