http___www.kuhaona.com_2016_09_o-dalmatinskoj-pasticadi__1.xml
1.1 1.2 1.3 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 6.1 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5
“Do you have a good recipe for pašticada”, I was asked by the manager of Kuhaona. Talking to me, a woman from Dalmatia, with long-years of service in the kitchen – and I am still thinking before I act – obviously having much trust in my culinary and gastronomic knowledge. I jump to the offer, and before I start the story on a pašticada recipe that I love, I have to repeat some of the numerous insights regarding this symbol of Dalmatian cuisine. First and foremost – there are countless recipes for Dalmatian pašticada. There are those by “my grandmother, my mother, my mother-in-law”, from this and that restaurant. This and that city or island, by legendary Dika Marjanović, or numerous recipes from encyclopedia edition by Aldo Ivanišević “Dalmatian cuisine”… And who knows how long we could enumerate them. It is traditional that every family has the right one and it is always the best recipe. Because, like with any traditional meals; there is much more to it than just the recipe; there are memories of Sunday lunches, family celebrations, favourite persons and in the end, inerasable memories of home and home town. Pašticada is basically among the meals which are prepared by long, slow cooking in liquid with ingredients and seasonings such as large amounts of onion and other root vegetables, which makes these meals significantly strong in flavour and aroma. “Goulash” has become a common name for such meat preparation technique (deriving from definitely the most renowned meal, related to Hungarian recipe. Naming all other meals prepared in such a way, such as “octopus goulas” or even scarier “lobster goulash”, is totally wrong). English cuisine has stew, French has ragout, Italian stufato, and we have – Dalmatian pašticada. True, this dish was brought to Dalmatia by the Republic of Venice, but over the centuries it has become so domesticated that it has become equally ours. However, Larousse Gastronomique will provide us even more info on the method to get a good pašticada. Braise, brasare ili braseur is a meat preparation method, first fried golden on fat, after which it continues to be cooked covered in a small amount of well aromatized stock or with added root vegetables. Near the end of cooking, meal is additionally seasoned with burgundy, port, marsala, prošek red sweet wine… If in the process you are using oval or square shape pans, black, with lids which do not allow evaporation, these meals, after initial frying, can continue to cook in the oven at approximately 180 °C. This way today’s modern preparation is brought the closest to traditional preparation in stoves or on heaths. Famous French Burgundy beef and its numerous derivations are prepared this way (English beef ribs, for example) and of course the entire line of pašticada recipes. Gastronomic culture of our Italian neighbours including a hundred years of written tracking and archiving of recipes which get a significant status of national and ethnic treasure – pašticada in Venice, Treviso and Verona, parts of the Republic of Venice, and today’s region Veneto is being tracked since the 15th century. Its variations are very much alike the one in Dalmatia (which most probably derives from them) for its cooking method and ingredients. Particularly appreciated is the one from Verona with horse meat (which is a real challenge for me since I can procure excellent horse meat), and flicking through old Venetian recipes I have come across a very intriguing marinating method which I have to try out on the first occasion. Pricked meat is braised with vegetables and seasonings to get a “nice” colour, poured with a liter of fine red wine, brought to boiling, after which the heat is turned off and all is left to be marinated for at least 12 hours. On the next day you add root vegetables (it is not specified – but I would still stew it a bit on the side) and it continues to be cooked – in that famous way – slowly, slowly until the meat is cooked. Serving pašticada with gnocchi The best is to serve gnocchi in a separate glass or ceramic bowl, if possible oval, so that there is not too many layers and so that they can be better seasoned. Place a few tablespoons of sauce to the bottom of the bowl and then distribute the strained gnocchi over its surface. Add a handful or two of parmesan cheese, which is definitely the best cheese for pasta and meat sauces. Its adequate replacement can only be a fine sheep milk cheese or a mixture with parmesan. Except for its flavours, it also aids in sticking of the sauce to their surface. Gently stir the gnocchi in sauce and serve. Nicely cut pašticada meat covered with sauce is served in a special bowl or in a deep plate. It is not necessary for the meat to “swim” in too much sauce – you will use the majority for gnocchi. It is sufficient that the meat only be covered with sauce. Everybody can take out on a plate what they like most – someone takes gnocchi first as an appetizer, then takes slices of meat with some sauce, and with rich green mixed lettuce. Others may choose to eat gnocchi and meat at the same time, which are then used as a side dish.
1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 5.1 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.6 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5
“Imaš li dobar recept za pašticadu”, pita me voditeljica Kuhaone. Obraća se meni, Dalmatinki, s podužim stažom u kuhinji – i dalje razmišljam – očito s mnogo povjerenja u moja kuharska i gastronomska saznanja. Pristajem i prije nego započnem priču o receptu pašticade kakvu ja volim moram ponoviti neka od brojnih saznanja vezana za ovaj simbol dalmatinske kuhinje. Prvo i najvažnije jest – recepata za dalmatinsku pašticadu je bezbroj. Ima onih od “moje babe, mame, svekrve”, iz ovog i onog restorana, ovog i onog grada ili otoka, iz legendarne Dike Marjanović, ili pak cijeli niz recepata iz enciklopedijskog izdanja Alda Ivaniševića “Dalmatinska kuhinja”… I tko zna dokle bi ih mogli nabrajati. Po običaju, svaka familija ima onaj pravi i to je u pravilu i najbolji recept. Jer, kao i kod svih tradicionalnih jela uz njih se vezuje mnogo više od običnog, »suhog« recepta; tu su uspomene na nedjeljne ručkove, porodične fešte, najdraže osobe i na kraju, neizbrisiva sjećanja na dom i rodni kraj. Pašticada bazično spada u jela koje se rade tehnikom dugog, polaganog kuhanja u tekućini sa sastojcima i začinima poput veće količine luka i ostalog korjenastog povrća, zbog čega su ova jela izrazito snažnih okusa i mirisa. Za ovu tehniku pripreme mesa uvriježio se naziv “gulaš” (od sigurno najpoznatijeg jela, vezanog za izvorni madžarski recept. Imenovati sva ostala jela koja se kuhaju tom tehnikom poput poput “hobotnica na gulaš” ili još strašnije “jastog na gulaš”, naravno da je pogrešno). Engleska kuhinja ima stew, francuska ragout, talijanska stufato a mi imamo – dalmatinsku pašticadu. Istina, ovo jelo je u Dalmaciju donijela Mletačka republika ali ono se stoljećima toliko udomaćilo da je postalo jednako naše. Međutim, Larousse Gastronomique će nas još točnije uputiti na metodu kojom se dobija dobra pašticada. Braise, brasare ili braseur je metoda pripreme mesa najprije zazlaćenog na masnoći nakon čega se nastavlja kuhati poklopljeno u manjoj količini sa mirodijama dobro namirisanog temeljca ili uz dodatak korjenastog povrća. Pred sam kraj kuhanja jelo se dodatno začini burgundcem, portom, marsalom, prošekom… Ako se pri tome koriste i posude ovalnog ili četvrtastog oblika, crne, teške i s poklopcima koji ne dozvoljavaju isparavanje, ova se jela, nakon početnog prženja, mogu nastaviti kuhati u pećnici na cca 180 °C. Time se današnja izvedba najviše približava nekadašnjim, tradicionalnim načinima kuhanja ovih jela u pećima ili na ognjištima. Na ovaj način priprema se čuvena francuska govedina u burgundcu, i njene brojne izvedenice (izvanredna su i engleska goveđa rebarca npr.), te naravno cijela plejada recepata pašticada. Kod naših susjeda Talijana čija gastronomska kultura uključuje i stoljetna pisana praćenja i arhiviranje recepata koji dobijaju značajan status nacionalnog kulturnog i etničkog blaga – pašticada u Veneciji, Trevisu i Veroni, dakle djelovima Mletačke republike i današnje regije Veneto prati se od 15. stoljeća. Izvedenice su veoma slične dalmatinskoj pašticadi (koja najvjerovatnije i potiče od njih) po metodi kuhanja i sastojcima. Osobito se cijeni ona veroneška sa konjskim mesom (koja mi je pravi izazov jer mogu dobiti izvrsnu konjetinu), a listajući stare venecijanske recepte našla sam jedan posebno intrigantan način mariniranja koji ću prvom prilikom probati. Meso, našpikovano po običaju, zajedno s povrćem i začinima se naglo popeče da dobije “lijepu” boju, prelije cijelom litrom dobrog crnog vina, pusti da prokuha, nakon čega se ugasi i ostavi u toj marinaturi najmanje 12 sati. Sutra dan se dodaje korjenasto povrće (ništa ne piše – ali ja bih ga ipak malo prodinstala sa strane) te se nastavlja kuhati – ono čuveno – na lagano, lagano dok se meso ne skuha. Serviranje pašticade s njokima Najljepše je kada njoke posebno servirate u vatrostalnoj ili keramičnoj, po mogućnosti duguljastoj, zdjeli kako ne bi imali previše slojeva i kako bi se što bolje i što lakše začinili. Na dno zdjele stavite nekoliko velikih žlica umaka, na to procijeđene njoke po cijeloj površini. Na njoke prospite bogatu šaku – dvije parmezana, koji je sigurno najbolji sir za tijesta i mesne umake. Njegova dostojna zamjena može biti dobar ovčji sir ili mješavina s parmezanom. Osim ukusa pomaže i boljem prijanjanju umaka koji se posipa na po njokima posutim sirom. Nježno promiješajte njoke u umaku i poslužite. Fino narezano meso pašticade preliveno s umakom služi se u posebnoj zdjeli ili dubokom tanjuru. Nije potrebno da meso »pliva« previše u umaku – većinu ćete iskoristiti za njoke. Dovoljno je da meso bude samo pokriveno umakom. Na tanjur svatko izvadi i poslužuje onako kako najviše voli – netko najprije njoke kao predjelo i nakon toga uzima kriške mesa, sa malo umaka, koje se jede uz neku bogatu zelenu miješanu salatu. Netko će pak izabrati varijantu da jede istovremeno meso i njoke, koji se tada služe kao prilog.