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My objective with this homemade ketchup recipe was to use neither exotic ingredients nor flavorings but to achieve the perfectly smooth, thick texture of Heinz or Hunt’s while preserving more of the fresh tomato taste than they do, drawing as much sweetness and acidity as possible from the tomato itself rather than from added sugar and vinegar. But I certainly did not want the final product to taste too fresh or natural to be real ketchup. The more you cook tomatoes to evaporate their water, the more you damage their fresh flavor and color. My solution is a technique sometimes used in making jam—separately reducing the tomato liquid to a thick syrup before adding it back to the pulp for a brief final simmer. This ketchup is easy to make, and delicious.–Jeffrey Steingarten LC No Food Mill? No Problem! Note: LC recipe tester and ketchup aficionado Brenda Carleton has canned countless incarnations of this condiment and not once has she bothered to invest in a food mill. Why would she when she has a trusty potato ricer on hand? (For those unfamiliar with a food mill, it’s a boon to home cooks obsessed with tomatoes because of its ability to remove seeds and skins from a thick puree.) Carleton isn’t keeping track, but she’s on her 50th or so batch of ketchup made in ricer fashion, with no complaints. Uh, almost no complaints. She did mention that the ricer is messy, though she notes, “but then, a food mill would also be messy.” No potato ricer? No problem there, either. Another LC recipe-testing aficionado, Lori Widmeyer, has made ketchup a time or three and usually marks an “X” on the bottom of each tomato, blanches them, and immediately plunges them in cold water to loosen the skins so they come off easily. Then she cuts up the tomatoes to remove any seeds and excess liquid and drains them in a colander. (Those times she hasn’t drained the tomatoes, albeit against her better judgment, the resulting ketchup always seemed a tad too watery, she says.) Whatever your method of madness, it’s worth the spectacularly summery, subtly spiced smack of this fire-engine-red condiment. One taste will tell you why you ought to make your own ketchup. (Hint: The answer is, quite simply, because you can.) Special Equipment: Food mill or potato ricer Hands-on time: 30 minutes | Total time: 2 hours, not including cooling Homemade Ketchup Recipe Ingredients| metric conversion - 10 pounds very ripe red tomatoes, preferably beefsteak, cored and roughly chopped - 4 garlic cloves, chopped - 1 large onion, chopped - 3/4 cup white vinegar (for a mild taste) or cider vinegar (for a fruity tang) - 1 tablespoon black peppercorns - 1 heaping teaspoon allspice berries - 1 cinnamon stick - 8 whole cloves - 1/4 teaspoon cayenne - 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger - 2 1/2 tablespoons salt - 6 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus more to taste Directions Place the tomatoes in a heavy, wide, nonreactive pan of at least an 8-quart capacity. Cover, place the pan over high heat, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring every minute or so, until the tomato chunks give off their juice and everything comes to a boil. Working in batches, pour the tomato chunks and juice into a large, medium-fine strainer placed over a 3- or 4-quart saucepan. Gently press and stir the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon so that all of the thin liquid but none of the tomato pulp goes into the saucepan. You should have about 2 quarts of liquid. Reserve the tomato pulp. To the tomato liquid in the saucepan add the garlic, onion, vinegar, peppercorns, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, cayenne, ginger, and salt. Cook over moderately high heat until the liquid is thick and syrupy and reduced to about 2 cups. This could take anywhere from half an hour to an hour, depending on the type of tomato used. [Editor's Note: Some tomatoes, such as beefsteaks, are more pulpy and mealy, whereas other tomatoes, like Romas, are more juicy. This will affect the final yield of juice and requires a slight adjustment in the total simmering time.] Meanwhile, transfer the tomato pulp to a food mill fitted with the finest screen to eliminate the seeds and skin. You should have about 1 quart of strained pulp. Transfer the strained pulp back to the first pan and reserve the tomato solids that you strained from the tomato pulp. Strain the thick, syrupy, reduced tomato liquid into the tomato pulp, pressing on the solids to extract all the liquid. Stir in the sugar and gently simmer over medium-low or low heat, stirring frequently, until the ketchup is reduced by 1/3, about 15 minutes. Taste it occasionally, adding more sugar if desired. You should have about a quart of tomato goo. If the authentic texture of commercial ketchup is desired, puree this ketchup in a blender or food processor. [Editor's Note: If it still seems a little runny, stir in a little of the reserved solids strained from the tomato pulp.] Let it cool to room temperature, then transfer it to glass jars or other containers with tight-fitting lids and refrigerate for up to several weeks. - Homemade Mustard from The Way the Cookie Crumbles - Chipotle Ketchup from Homesick Texan - Homemade Mayonnaise from Leite's Culinaria - Freezer Tomato Sauce from Leite's Culinaria Homemade Ketchup Recipe © 1998 Jeffrey Steingarten. Photo © 2011 BigStock. All rights reserved.
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POVRĆE koje je zapravo voće, a nama je jedno od najdražih ljetnih plodova je na izmaku i sezona prolazi. Ipak, ako ih još imate u vrtu, vjerojatno su jako zrele. Ako ne znate što s njima, pokušajte napraviti vlastiti kečap. Iako vam možda zvuči kao bespotreban posao za nešto što se sasvim pristojno može kupiti u dućanu, dok ne kušate dobar domaći kečap, ne znate što propuštate. Još će vam biti slađi jer ste ga napravili sami. Izdvojite koji sat za ovaj posao, ali uvjeravamo vas, na kraju će se isplatiti. Prema receptu sa stranice leitesculinaria.com, ne trebaju vam nikakvi egzotični začini niti namirnice, a slijedeći recept ipak ćete dobiti umak fine teksture, savršeno izbalansirane slatkoće i kiselosti koju daje rajčica a ne pojačivači okusa i šećer. Ipak, želimo finu teksturu kečapa, a ne vodenastu salsu pa se ovdje koristi posebna tehnika slična onoj koju koristimo spravljajući džem. Tekućinu od rajčica reduciramo do stanja gustog sirupa prije nego je spojimo s pulpom koju smo prethodno procijedili. Pratite recept. Treba vam: - 5 kg vrlo zrelih crvenih rajčica, izdubljenih i ugrubo nasjeckanih - 4 češnja češnjaka, nasjeckanog - 1 glavica velikog crvenog luka, nasjeckanog - ¾ mjerne šalice (2.5 dcl) bijelog octa (za blaži okus) ili jabučnog (za voćni okus) - 1 jušna žlica papra u zrnu - 1 dupkom puna čajna žlica pimenta u zrnu - 1 štapić cimeta - 8 cijelih klinčića - ¼ jušne žlice crvene paprike - ¼ čajne žlice korijena đumbira - 2 ½ jušne žlice soli - 6 jušnih žlica šećera u granulama, plus malo više po potrebi Priprema: Stavite rajčice u lonac od barem 8 litara. Pazite da je od inertnih, ne-reaktivnih materijala (aluminij, bakar, plastika) jer takvi lonci pri zagrijavanju djeluju na hranu, pogotovo ocat, ulje i rajčice. Dakle, koristite emajlirani ili keramički lonac. Rajčice pokrijte, stavite lonac da kuha na visokoj temperaturi nekih 5-10 minuta. Promiješajte svaku minutu do dvije, dok komadići rajčice ne puste vodu i sve prokuha. U par navrata izlijte rajčicu kroz srednje gusto cjedilo ispod kojeg ste stavili lonac za pirjanje od barem 4 litre. Rajčicu koja je ostala u cjedilu lagano pritisnite drvenog žlicom tako da se ocijedi ostatak soka ali da ne prođe pulpa. Trebali biste imati oko 2 litre soka od rajčice. Pulpu sačuvajte. Soku u loncu za pirjanje dodajte luk, češnjak, ocat, zrna papra, začine, cimet, klinčić, crvenu papriku, đumbir i sol. Kuhajte na srednje jakoj vatri dok se tekućina ne postane sirupasta i reducira se na otprilike 5 dcl (2 šalice). Ovaj postupak može trajati između pola sata do sata, ovisno o vrsti rajčice. U međuvremenu, pulpu tretirajte u mlincu za hranu ( ako ga imate, teško ga je naći na našem tržištu) ili situ za krumpire (za pravljenje njoka). Poanta je da napravite što finiju masu od pulpe rajčice. Pokušajte protisnuti pulpu kroz najsitnije cjedilo koje imate, trebate se riješiti kože i sjemenki rajčice. Trebali biste dobiti oko 1 litru čvrste pulpe koju ćete vratiti u onaj lonac od 8 litara, a ostatak rajčice ostavite sa strane. Reducirani sok od rajčice također procijedite u lonac gdje ste ostavili procijeđenu pulpu, ali drvenom žlicom pritisnite sve namirnice koje ste ukuhali s njim tako da se što više tekućine procijedi. Umiješajte šećer te lagano pirjajte sve na srednje do slaboj ili slaboj vatri, uz često miješanje. Kečap bi se kroz 15 minuta treba reducirati za 1/3. Kušajte povremeno i dodajte šećera po želji. Trebali biste dobiti oko 1 litru kečapa. Ukoliko želite teksturu kečapa sličnu onoj u reklami, ostatke pulpe blendajte u blenderu i dodajte u smjesu. Pustite sve da se ohladi na sobnoj temperaturi a zatim podijelite u staklenke s poklopcima za vakuumiranje, držite u frižideru i uživajte u svom kečapu nekoliko tjedana.