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How to hang wallpaper? Where to begin? What is necessary? These questions were asked almost everything. Once the house is coming grand renovation catastrophic turmoil, we begin to wonder: how, what, why. In order to be in all weapons, should understand what it takes to wallpapering, you should pay attention, and that is absolutely secondary. Wallpapering with your hands - is a serious matter. The way you do the job, will depend on the visual appearance of your room. Terms wallpapering First, where to start is to learn the rules of wallpapering. Prepare inventory Wallpapering tools that may be needed at any time shall be at your fingertips. This helps to avoid tricky situations that could affect the final result. Wallpapering the walls - a laborious process that requires accuracy. To wallpaper was pasted exactly, please be plumb, level, ruler, meter, knife and scissors. Correct Wallpapering involves the use of a broad brush with which the adhesive will be applied, sponges, brushes, and of course, buckets of paint. Also, you will need different spatulas. Inspection How to apply wallpaper, the question, of course, important. But no less important is the test of your materials. Carefully inspect rolls, check number of color on each of them. Cut the roll only after verifying the integrity of the fabric, otherwise the extra expenses you can not avoid. Preparation of surfaces Preparing walls for wallpapering - phase, which should not miss. It should be remembered that all funds (plaster, etc.). Need only pick up a water-based. Before you buy something in the store, consult with the sellers themselves or get information online. As a result of manipulation of the base should be smooth and dry. Preparing walls for wallpapering begins with removing the old layer of wallpaper, if any. When you do this "dry", you can tear off part of the plaster and also create a huge amount of dust that would interfere with breathing. Pre-moisten the old layer of warm water and let soak for 10 minutes. Take a wire brush or a narrow spatula and move downwards to clear the wall. When the surface is completely clean, and it was washed with pure water and check for cracks. If these are found, they must be cleaned, that is, to cover. Mold or fungus is treated with special agents. After these manipulations should be lubricated to dry well. Note that the spot left by the processing will certainly spoil the look of your new wallpaper. How to hang wallpaper, if it occurs in a room with high humidity? It is simply an additional primed surface. This saves your wallpaper from excess moisture. Wallpapering in the paint, especially at the adhesive will require a slightly different surface preparation. The base should be thoroughly rinsed to wash away all the superficial layer. Moistened with water brush wipe of the wall area approximately equal to 2 by 2 meters, and then the paint should be melted. If it is applied in a thin layer, it is enough to reprocess brush. Thick layers require more repetitions of the above procedure. Wallpapering on a painted wall, if the paint is quite sturdy or even fresh, it is easier. In this case, remove the layer until the plaster is not necessary, just wash basis, eliminating it from dust and dirt as possible. How to hang wallpaper in this case? Directly on the wall before the gluing, a sufficient layer of glue is applied. If the paint is kept no matter remove it should be mandatory, otherwise one day it will fall off on their own, but together with wallpaper sticked on top of it. The strength of latex paint is simply defined: a test piece of wallpaper on all the rules pasted on the wall. After one day, try to tear this piece. Not strong enough paint will allow you to remove the wallpaper, along with pieces of the base. It can be concluded that Wallpapering on the wall without any preparation - it is meaningless. Wallpapering on old wallpaper is also possible, but in order to avoid various troubles as unnoticed mold or mildew, clean the foundation of a better and thoroughly prepare. In addition, the applied layer of glue (which is, anyway, moisture) breaks the adhesion between the base and the lower adhesive layer of wallpaper, they may start to fall off. And another disadvantage - the old paint on the wallpaper under the influence of the adhesive can be dissolved, and the spots are formed as a result, will move to the new layer. Wallpapering on plaster furnace walls require special attention because if the heating system is connected, the glue will dry quickly enough, and the wallpaper is not enough "scrapie" with a base may fall. In this situation, you should either turn off the heating at the time, allowing the glue to dry, or wait for the warm season. Another recommendation: coat with glue, not only strip the wallpaper, but also the foundation that will promote better adhesion. Options wallpapering dry plaster is not varied. Initially need a plaster solution zashpatlevat joints (if any) and the paste over them with gauze, and after the second zashpatlevat sandpaper. Available nails need to drown 1 mm deep, the cap color, deepening shpatljujut again, dried and polished. Wallpaper glue concrete undesirable because when interacting with the adhesive spots may appear. Wallpapering in the water-based paint applied previously on concrete slabs, save the situation. And in order to better secure the wallpaper with a base can be primed with a weak solution of glue surface intended for gluing. How to hang wallpaper, if the surface is very smooth (plastic, etc.)? Use the sandpaper to give the necessary surface roughness of some to wallpaper just slipping off. Wallpapering on gypsum board provides training, consisting of several stages. First, the surface must study the acrylic primer, after which glue joints sheets tape construction. Secondly, the width necessary to putty joints in multiple layers, and after the whole surface. And, thirdly, after drying putty made for polishing and priming work. Only now your surface will be ready for wallpapering. Wallpapering is allowed to whitewash, but it all depends on the quality of the whitewash. If it's pretty hard not to fall off the pieces and on its surface cracks is not observed, then the wallpaper will be held fairly tightly. Preparing to wallpapering the ceiling will require you to care, because every grain of sand, and the more sink, as a result, will look after gluing dents or bumps. The base should be smooth, flat and dry. Circuit training is the same as circuit training walls. Prepare the glue What adhesive wallpaper you choose depends on themselves wallpaper. The correctness of your choice affects the final result, it should be taken into account. What is the best glue for wallpaper? Of course, special. Before you make a choice, consider what types of specialized upholstery adhesives exist. Wallpaper glue paper requires careful approach, especially if you have chosen a very subtle variations. Paper wallpaper, there are several types: - simplex - Lightweight single-ply paper wallpaper; - Duplex - normal paper wallpaper washable, crimped, ceiling, embossed and smooth; - heavy paper wallpaper - coarse fiber, structural, foam. Each roll often write, how to glue the paper wall, and how to plant the necessary glue. A characteristic feature of these adhesives is their base - modified starch. Moreover, it is composed of anti-fungal components. Natural wallpaper glue, which include paper wallpaper, allows you to create a unique and unique interior. They can be used for pasting in a residential area. Prepare the adhesive as follows: Pour the powder into cold water while vigorously stir, leave for 3 minutes and then mix thoroughly. Clay supported on the wallpaper, it is necessary to allow time to soak basis. Then they are more attached to the wall. - Vinyl and non-woven wallpaper Wallpapering on flizeline basis is most often used in residential areas, unless there is the possibility to use more natural materials. The difference between vinyl and Non-woven wallpaper that vinyl to clean and wash, and is based on non-woven fabric, which can be repainted several times. Flezilinovyh wallpaper glue involves gluing is not on a roll, and directly on the wall. The adhesive comprises a modified starch, methyl cellulose and antifungal additives. Suspend powder in cold water, it is allowed 15 minutes to how it should be swollen, after blended again. How to glue non-woven wallpaper? Right on the wall, of course, after brushing it with glue. In this case, you get the ability to control the joints of panels. If you ask the question: what is easier to glue wallpaper, then most likely, the answer is obvious - the non-woven. Vinyl wallpaper glue is carried out by the same glue, it should only be applied directly onto the fabric wallpaper. Do not forget to give the glue to soak for 1-2 minutes. If you decide to combine different ways of wallpapering, choosing thus also different types of wallpaper, the best choice is a universal glue. The composition also has anti-fungal additives. The basis of the substance are modified starch ethers. The proportions of water and the mixture depends on the type of wallpaper themselves. Wallpapering the ceiling, as in other matters, and any other surface that will require a certain amount of glue. The required information is contained in each pack, but there, no it does not take into account that for better bonding coat with even surface itself, where the wallpaper will "hang up". So it is better to take a couple of packs in reserve. the cutting To cut the wallpaper in height, you will need to specify the height of your room and add on 5-10 centimeters. Even according to the data obtained can be cut into strips rolls. Wallpapering for painting or other monochrome options that do not have any strict pattern, difficulties in the cutting will not. All bands will be the same size. Wallpapering butt when it is a direct coupling, the band are identical, and the pattern aligned exactly with one another. And how to hang wallpaper butt if there is a shift pattern? In each of the following stripe pattern should be shifted by half a pattern that is repeated. It turns out that every second line must be the same. Care should be taken in order to unwind a roll of all time in the same direction. How to glue the vinyl wallpaper, or rather, how to properly cut out? This issue should be of interest to all who are going to buy them. The fact that such a type of wallpaper is an unpleasant property of stretching in a wet form, and an order, and after drying - again take a predetermined size. Sticking vinyl wallcoverings require patience, otherwise, if you do not adhere to a particular technology, may get unsightly gaps between the stripes, but not uniformly glued surface. On how and what to do, we'll talk about below. Glue Mazhem In principle, not some glue you use: universal, or one that is recommended by the manufacturer of wallpaper, and even how well the glue involved. Regardless of whether a Wallpapering butt without any extra effort or you had to strictly regulate drawing evenly and properly promazhte strip of wallpaper glue, pay enough attention to the edges, that they are not dry, or joints may subsequently diverge. The duration of soaking the strips should be the same. Missed folded paper tape with glue inside (the proportion of 2/3 to 1/3) and gently, effortlessly, rolled. So left for 10 minutes, giving the opportunity to soak adhesive wallpaper base. glue Wallpapering methods are different, but the conditions in which this "event" should be held are the same. The optimum temperature of your premises should be close to 20 degrees. This is the best environment for wallpapering. Check that came through from nowhere, and the wallpaper can swell or fall away altogether. Make a mark that will be the first band is strictly vertical. Here, you need a level or plumb, which we mentioned above. All of the following bands glue the butt, leaving no gaps. How to stick vinyl wallpaper, mindful about their feature stretch? The first thing you have to do is to resist the urge to pull out their territory, no matter what you're going to do this: by hand or with a roller. Stykuya web, do run, about 1 mm on the edge. When smooth out all the fabric, gently slide out the overlap butt, and then rolled them roll. During lubricate the edge of a thin brush, if unacceptable dryness is not forbidden. Wallpapering the ceiling is best done in pairs, or risk being entangled in the lane and missed a transfer material is wasted. How to glue the ceiling wallpaper? In the direction? The layout should be done from the window to the center, that is, "from the light." When one person sticks them on the ceiling, the other using a mop holds missed roll, which is still not time to stick. Glue non-woven wallpaper on the ceiling, in a way, this applies to any wallpaper, it should be carried out in the first place, and only then you can get to the wall. Pasted wallpaper that parallel wall that is shorter. For non-professionals - it is a very good option, is much easier. Smooth the wallpaper to the ceiling first, just his hands, and after taking stockpiled inventory. How to stick the non-woven wallpaper? The first thing worth noting: flizilinovyh wallpaper glue must be done back to back. Second, be careful with the glue, because getting to the surface of your wallpaper (this is especially true in the field of joints), it is able to change the color of the painted wallpaper, or interfere with normal colored with wallpaper intended for painting. Delete it immediately follows Bonding non-woven wallpaper, you can start from any angle. Often, moving deeper into the room from the window. Do not forget to vymeryat landmarks. Wallpapering in the corners, in cases where they are not equal, is as follows: wallpaper paste lap, picking "by eye" the best option it to be aesthetically pleasing. If the wallpaper begins to wrinkle, fold the knife cut wallpapering, and then again zaravnivayut. Generally, Wallpapering corners depends on your responsibility. Do not be lazy, and do everything as it should, over time, otherwise the wallpaper may begin to withdraw. Just do not stick to the band itself "angle" or "through the corner." The above-described technique of gluing in the corners is suitable for all kinds of wallpaper. Flezelinovyh wallpaper glue (or any other) with a textured roller involves the use of volume, volume instead of a spatula. With the help of this device we can expel excess glue from under the pasted wallpaper. Doing it in the direction of the edge, which is not yet coexists with the next strip of wallpaper. Features gluing some types of wallpaper These wallpapers are made of natural materials on the market, they are presented in a wide range that will not complicate a choice. Each model has its own unique flavor, texture and pattern. The wax coating on the front side, allows you to use them in rooms with high humidity. Cork wallpaper pasting is carried out on the most technology that heavy paper and glue wallpaper. But there are a number of its nuances: bend fracture such materials can not, as a result, cracks appeared not amenable to "fix." Prokleivaya corners, do not dent them wallpaper and strips are glued back to back only. Excess fabric cut with scissors, use a knife should not be. This extra sound insulation, thermal barrier and absorption of vibration. Wallpapers have antibacterial properties and does not absorb odors. Wallpaper bamboo sticking which can be directly on brick or concrete, a preliminary preparation at the same time is not necessary. Just use liquid nails as a "fixture".
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Kako lepiti tapete? Potreban alat: Četka, visak, skalpel, lenjir Potreban materijal: Tapete, lepak za tapete Vaša preporuka : lepljenje tapeta Pošto ste odlučili koji dezen i tip tapete želite da kupite, skupili alat iz Vaše „uradi sam“ radionice, morate znati i koliko tapeta Vam je potrebno kako bi prekrili Vašu prostoriju. To ćete približno izračunati na sledeći način. Br = (D • n)/d Br – broj svitaka tapeta koji moraju kupiti D – Dužina jedne staze, dobija se tako što se izmeri visina prostorije i doda još 5-10 cm n – broj staza, nalazi se tako što se izmeri obim prostorije i taj broj podeli sa širinom svitka tapete d – Dužina svitka, proizvođač je naveo kolika je dužina tapete u svitku. Sva merenja vršite kao da nema vrata i prozora pošto morate da imate malo više tapeta zbog ukrajanja, uklapanja dezena i sl. E, kada ste i to rešili lepljenje tapeta može da počne. Sledeća stvar, jedna od važnijih, ukoliko ste rešeni da kvalitetno uradite posao onda je priprema podloge primarna stvar. Ukoliko su postojale tapete u toj prostoriji, predlažem da se one skinu. Moguće je lepiti na postojeće tapete (najviše tri sloja) ali rizikujete da se one kasnije odlepe od zida i upropaste ceo vaš trud. Svi ekseri i šrafovi se moraju izvaditi iz zidova i ukoliko ne nameravate da ih vraćate na isto mesto obavezno sanirajte rupe od tiplova. Pored toga sve pukotine na zidovima je potrebno napuniti gipsom. Šmirgl papirom izbrusite manje neravnine zidova a ukoliko postoje veće gletovanjem ih izravnajte. Ukoliko je zid bio farban bojom na bazi disperzije ili poludisperzije morate da proverite njegovu postojanost. To ćete uraditi pomoću malog testa. Uzmite parče lepljive trake (selotejp) i zalepite na zid, a potom ga odlepite. Ukoliko se ne skida farba, slobodno preko toga lepite tapete, u suprotnom neophodno je oguliti farbu sa zida. Ukoliko skidate staru farbu obavezno je dubinsko grundiranje. To važi i za zidove od gipsanih ploča. Ukoliko na zidu nije bilo nikakve boje tretirajte ga sa osnovnim premazom inače ćete kasnije jako teško odlepiti tapete. Sledeći korak u pripremi je da skinete sve prekidače i utičnice koje se nalaze na zidovima. A rupe od dozni napunite zgužvanim papirom. Kada ste sve navedene radnje završili razrediće te lepak za tapete 10 puta više nego što je predviđeno uputstvom i sa tim premazati zidove kako bi se oni dodatno impregnirali. Pre početka lepljenja sačekati da se ovaj sloj osuši. Kako je zid suv, nećete morati dugo da čekate. Sada je trenutak da spremite lepak po uputstvu proizvođača i dok čekate da on nabubri polako počnite sa pripremama za samo lepljenje tapeta. Sa lepljenjem tapeta se kreće iz ćoška koji je najbliži izvoru svetlosti (prozor) i lepi sa tako da se udaljava od svetlosti. Na taj način mesta spajanja pojedinih komada biće manje uočljiva. Od toga ćoška odmerite širinu tapete i na tom mestu ćete povući vertikalu. Iako postoje različite naprave za pomenuti posao (libele, laseri), od velike pomoći će biti i obični visak. Povlačenje vertikale i lepljenje prve staze tapete je izuzetno važno. Pogrešite li ovde i ukrivite je, sledeću naslanjate na nju, opet ukrivo i nije teško pretpostaviti kako će na kraju izgledati taj prizor. Dakle savet je obratiti pažnju na prvu stazu a dalje opušteno. Sledeće što treba da uradite je da isečete određen broj traka dužine koja odgovara visine prostorije + 5-10 cm. Trake obavezno secite pod pravim uglom. Može da se seče i makazama ali je mnogo brže skalpelom. Ukoliko to radite skalpelom obavezno postavite neki tvrđi karton ili nešto slično ispod, kako ne bi oštetili pod. Kada ste to uradili postavite dve trake jednu pored druge a zatim treću po sredini kao na slici. Takav način rada omogućuje da lepak nanosite preko samih ivica a da pri tome ne ulepite pod. Sledeća traka na koju ćete naneti lepak je jedna od ove dve ispod i tako redom. Za samo nanošenje lepka nema nekog specijalnog pravila važno je da cela površina na kraju bude premazana lepkom. Profesionalci za premazivanje tapeta lepkom koriste specijalne tapetarske stolove. Ali ukoliko ne nameravate da prekrivate velike površine poslužiće i pod na način kako je objašnjeno. Naravno, ako Vas bole leđa ili vas prosto mrzi da se saginjete svaki put kada nanosite lepak na tapet, iskoristite sobna vrata i postavite ih na stol. Tako će rad biti mnogo prijatnije. Kada ste ravnomerno tapet premazali lepkom presavite jedan kraj tako da prekriva trećinu dužine a drugi dve trećine dužine kao na slici. Ovako „upakovanu“ tapetu ostaviti 3-5min pre nego što pristupite lepljenju. Vreme trajanja omekšavanja zavisi od vrste materijala od koga je napravljena tapeta. Za papirne trema manje za sve ostale više vremena. Vremenom ćete razviti „osećaj“ pa ćete prosto znati kada su tapete spremne za postavljanje. Pored toga, trudite se da omekšavanje tapeta traje podjednako dugo za sve komade. Vremenom ćete takođe uvideti koliko tapeta možete da zalepite za vreme koje je potrebno za omekšavanje jedne. Upravo toliko ćete traka namazati lepkom u cugu što omogućava kontinuitet u lepljenju tapeta. Dok jedne lepite sledeće se omekšavaju i tako redom. Kada je tapeta dovoljno omekšala uzmite kraj koji je presavijen na jednu trećinu, razmotajte ga i prislonite ispod plafona, bočna ivica mora da bude poravnata sa vertikalom koju ste ranije ocrtali. Neko tu vertikalu označi tako što zabode igle u zid a onda tapetu samo prisloni uz njih. Neko samo označi tačke vertikale (naš slučaj) pa opet poravna sa njima... odaberite ono što mislite da je najbolje za Vas. Nakon što se gornji deo tapete zalepi neophodno je istisnuti vazduh. To se radi određenom četkom ali može da posluži i peškir, sunđer ili nešto slično tako što ćete prelaziti preko tapete od gornjeg središnjeg dela prema dole i ukoso prema rubovima tapete. Kada ste sav vazduh istisli razmotajte donji deo trake i ponovite proces. Nekada može da se desi na nekom mestu ostane zarobljen „balončić“ vazduha. U tom slučaju ga probušite iglom i oslobodite vazduh. Ova mala rupa se kasnije neće videti. Druga ivica tapete bi trebalo da dosegne ćošak sobe. Ovde opet, neko preporučuje da tapeta ne završava u samom ćošku već da se prebaci 2 cm na drugi zid. Ukoliko dva zida nisu pod pravim uglom (što obično i nisu) na drugom zidu nećete imati vertikalnu ivicu ili još gore u ćošku će se tapeta zgužvati. Profesionalci znaju kako da se izbore sa ovim, ljudima koji majstorijama bave iz hobija po sistemu „sam svoj majstor“ preporučujem da tapetu završavaju u ćošku. Ukoliko neki deo tapete (zbog krivine zida) pređe na drugi zid, poravnajte ga skalpelom. Višak tapete blizu poda poravnajte skalpelom po liniji lajsne. Mogli ste prethodno skinuti lajsne pa ih sada vratiti preko tapete ali... nema potrebe. Sledeću traku lepite na identičan način samo što sada ivicu poravnavate sa ivicom već zalepljene trake i tako redom. Neko lepi tapete tako što ih malo preklapa ali, složićete se, da je mnogo lepše da one čine jednu ravnu površinu nego da su vidljivi spojevi. Kada dođete do kraja zida, ocrtajte vertikalu na sledećem i sve ispočetka dok ne zalepite tapete na sve zidove. Već sada lupkanjem pronađite dozne koje ste prelepili i da isečete tapetu na tom mestu. I izvadite papir koji ste tamo nagurali. Ostaje, na kraju, samo da vratite utičnice i prekidače na svoje mesto i to bi bilo to. Na tržištu mogu da se nađu trake koje služe da se zalepe na spoju plafona i zidova kako bi dobili ravnu liniju, ali ukoliko ste ravno zalepili sve trake, nije obavezno. I još nešto, lepljenje tapeta je mnogo lakše ukoliko se radi udvoje, ako ništa.. interesantnije je. Komentari Trenutno nema komentara, komentarisite clanak pomocu forme koja se nalazi ispod Obavestenje: Komentari nisu zvanicni stavovi ovog sajta već subjektivna mišljenja. Sajt Uputstva.rs nije odgovoran za stavove koji su iznešeni u komentarima i oni su vlasništvo njihovih autora.