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WINTER IN THE SUN WINTER IN THE SUN; Guadeloupe's Sleepy Satellites By BARRY GIFFORD; Published: November 1, 1992 IN 1962, when I was 15, my Uncle Buck, who had been a commander in the United States Navy, suggested that it might be interesting for me to work for the summer on a freighter. We were in Tampa, Fla. -- then a smallish cigar-manufacturing town and phosphate port -- and there were plenty of ships in the harbor, so we went down to the docks and looked them over. Buck struck up a conversation with the captain of a Norwegian cargo boat. We repaired to a bar, where the two men drank whisky and I had a root beer. Buck tried to convince the skipper to take me on as a cabin boy, but since I had no seaman's papers he couldn't do it. His boat was heading down through the Caribbean; its only definite destinations at that point were Pointe-a-Pitre, in Guadeloupe, and Fort-de-France, in Martinique. I don't remember much of what the captain said, but I still recall his remarking on the extraordinary skills of his Colombian crewmen who played soccer on the deck and never once kicked the ball overboard. It was also the first time I had ever heard of Pointe-a-Pitre. It was many years before I made it to Pointe-a-Pitre, on a different kind of adventure. That port is the jumping-off point for the Iles des Saintes and Marie-Galante, islands in the Guadeloupe archipelago in the French West Indies. Though there are regularly scheduled flights via Air Guadeloupe to Terre-de-Haut, one of the eight Iles des Saintes, I always prefer to approach a destination by boat when possible. I like the feeling of the waves, of knowing the distance at sea level the way the first people to arrive at the place did. In the case of Terre-de-Haut, where my wife, Mary Lou, and I would be staying for the next four days, we were following in the wake of the Arawaks, then the Caribs, and of Christopher Columbus. He came upon this archipelago on Nov. 4, 1493, three days after the Feast of All Saints, and named the islands Los Santos. It was not until Oct. 18, 1648, that Charles Houel, the Governor of Guadeloupe, seized them in the name of the crown. It was Houel who supervised the extermination of the Carib Indians, and established a government in 1659. Slavery was introduced on the more fertile of the two inhabited islands, Terre-de-Bas, where the sugar cane plantations were located. Men were shanghaied in France and brought to settle both islands, and women were paid to come over to provide them with sexual services. Due to their strategic position in the Caribbean, and the marvelous anchorage, many naval battles between the British and the Frence were fought for control of Les Saintes. In 1782, for example, the Royal Navy, under Admiral Rodney, routed the French under Admiral de Grasse; so the British took over for a short spell, and it was not until 1815 that Les Saintes -- as the Iles des Saintes are familiarly known -- again became French territory. Terre-de-Haut was settled mostly by whites, the families that came as part of the French military presence established at Fort Napoleon -- begun in 1781, completed in 1867 -- which still stands, immaculately preserved, on a promontory on the north side of the island. The residents of both Terre-de-Bas and Marie-Galante are mainly descendants of the slaves brought there to work the coffee plantations and sugar cane fields. The boat trip from Pointe-a-Pitre to Terre-de-Haut takes about an hour and a half, and our ride was calm -- unusually so, said a fellow passenger who had made the crossing often. The entrance to Terre-de-Haut is spectacularly beautiful, signaled by a baby version of Le Pain du Sucre (sugarloaf) in Rio de Janeiro, and Le Chameau (the camel), its highest peak (1,014 feet). Our base would be Le Village Creole, a hotel comprising 22 duplexes overlooking the bay at Pointe Coquelet. "This is what St. Barts was 20 years ago," said Ghyslain Laps, the owner of our hotel and the secretary of the local department of tourism. "People don't really know about Les Saintes." In fact, the archipelago of Les Saintes comprises eight islands altogether, and only Terre-de-Haut is equipped to accommodate tourists. There are a half-dozen hotels on the island, several of which cater to English-speaking guests; all offer the kinds of conveniences modern-day travelers appreciate. The island is roughly the same size as Key West, three by two miles, and has the feel of the Lower Keys, but the Keys of the 1920's. There are only 1,500 people on Terre-de-Haut. There is no crime here, no need to lock doors or worry about pickpockets. Other than tourism, which accounts for about 50 percent of the local economy, the main industry is fishing. The island boats are 20-foot dinghies with outboard motors. The men, most of whom begin their profession at 18, wear flat bamboo hats called salakos, whose design is said to have originated in Saigon, where the hats were worn by the police; nobody is certain how or when this Far Eastern wrinkle came to Les Saintes. Using blue nets strung with bright orange buoys, the fishermen haul in tuna, kingfish and daurade (dolphin, or mahi-mahi). They also trap rock lobster and crab, and conch is a local delicacy.
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Khách sạn gần Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) Tìm khách sạn ở Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes), Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe Khám phá Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) Đang được quan tâm tại Terre-de-Haut Khách sạn trong phạm vi 0,5 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) - Đặt nhiều nhất Residence les Hauts de Grande Anse Chưa có nhận xét nào của khách 6 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 1 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) Anse Caraibe Chưa có nhận xét nào của khách 5 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 2 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) Le Paradis Saintois Residence Chưa có nhận xét nào của khách 9 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 3 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) 10 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 15 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) La Villa Koulaya Tona Chưa có nhận xét nào của khách 19 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 22 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) 11 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 24 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) 29 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 32 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) 28 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua Khách sạn trong phạm vi 35 km của Sân bay Terre-de-Haut (LSS-Sân bay Les Saintes) 18 người đã xem khách sạn này trong 1 giờ vừa qua