<p>It depends on "where" the squeaking is coming from. Two contact points that might squeak are <strong><em>the burrs</em></strong> themselves and <strong><em>the top part of the crank rod</em></strong>. The good news is that the whole thing dis-/re-assembles rather easily, and in fact this is pretty much necessary for changing the coarseness setting. I'd suggest two possibilities based on my own Hario manual grinder. </p>

<ul>
<li>If the ceramic burrs are squeaking, <strong>try grinding some very dark-roast beans</strong> (E.g., French roast), which will have more oils on the surface than lighter-roast beans. Use a setting about as coarse as for drip coffee. This will naturally lubricate the bits that are rubbing together, and should reduce or eliminate the squeaking. I wouldn't recommend putting any (other) oil on the burr mechanism.</li>
<li>If the crank is squeaking, take the top part of the crank apart as you would to change the coarseness setting. Remove the coarseness adjustment nut (looks like a toothed gear) completely. <strong>Oil the shaft and the top of the post through which the rod passes</strong>, and make sure the oil is well distributed through the parts where the rod contacts. For the oil, I recommend using a food-grade mineral oil that you are comfortable with. Use a very small amount of oil (like a pinhead size drop in total). I wouldn't use a vegetable oil because it could become "gummy" or go rancid, and I wouldn't use anything non food-safe (e.g., not machine oil, not WD-40).</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-07T19:28:01.010Z
This sounds like exellent advice. Do you have a recommendation for such mineral oil?
AncientSwordRage
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-07T19:49:42.670Z
@Pureferret - I can't recommend a particular brand, but above all **make sure to find a product that is marked as "food grade."** In the US, it might be labeled as USP; in the UK/EU it might be labeled as E905a. Highly refined products are generally regarded as safe in small amounts (see [the Wikipedia article on mineral oil](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil) for more discussion). Sometimes called "white mineral oil". Sometimes used as a laxative or used as a protectant for wooden cutting boards. Check a local pharmacy/chemist, cooking/kitchenware store, or even a hardware/DIY store.
hoc_age
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-07T19:20:42.873Z
2016-02-07T19:20:42.873Z
hoc_age
<p>My Hario Skerton is very new,  and has recently developed a squeak (like scratching a black board,  but less soul piercing)  that is only present when I grind beans. It's irritating,  but also mildly concerning.  Should it be squeaky? And how do I stop it? </p>

<grinder>
How do I stop my Hario Skerton from squeaking when I grind beans?
AncientSwordRage
# How do I stop my Hario Skerton from squeaking when I grind beans?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-01-15)

My Hario Skerton is very new, and has recently developed a squeak (like scratching a black board, but less soul piercing) that is only present when I grind beans. It's irritating, but also mildly concerning. Should it be squeaky? And how do I stop it?

**Tags:** grinder


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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2016-02-07. Score: 4

It depends on "where" the squeaking is coming from. Two contact points that might squeak are ***the burrs*** themselves and ***the top part of the crank rod***. The good news is that the whole thing dis-/re-assembles rather easily, and in fact this is pretty much necessary for changing the coarseness setting. I'd suggest two possibilities based on my own Hario manual grinder.

* If the ceramic burrs are squeaking, **try grinding some very dark-roast beans** (E.g., French roast), which will have more oils on the surface than lighter-roast beans. Use a setting about as coarse as for drip coffee. This will naturally lubricate the bits that are rubbing together, and should reduce or eliminate the squeaking. I wouldn't recommend putting any (other) oil on the burr mechanism.
* If the crank is squeaking, take the top part of the crank apart as you would to change the coarseness setting. Remove the coarseness adjustment nut (looks like a toothed gear) completely. **Oil the shaft and the top of the post through which the rod passes**, and make sure the oil is well distributed through the parts where the rod contacts. For the oil, I recommend using a food-grade mineral oil that you are comfortable with. Use a very small amount of oil (like a pinhead size drop in total). I wouldn't use a vegetable oil because it could become "gummy" or go rancid, and I wouldn't use anything non food-safe (e.g., not machine oil, not WD-40).

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: This sounds like exellent advice. Do you have a recommendation for such mineral oil?  
> **username_1**: @Pureferret - I can't recommend a particular brand, but above all **make sure to find a product that is marked as "food grade."** In the US, it might be labeled as USP; in the UK/EU it might be labeled as E905a. Highly refined products are generally regarded as safe in small amounts (see [the Wikipedia article on mineral oil](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil) for more discussion). Sometimes called "white mineral oil". Sometimes used as a laxative or used as a protectant for wooden cutting boards. Check a local pharmacy/chemist, cooking/kitchenware store, or even a hardware/DIY store.  

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