<p>This is kind of an expensive option, but I used resin in order to make the beads harder.<br />
It's like 50 euros for a big bottle of resin, but if you're careful enough, you can make a bottle last for a very long time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/533TicfH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/533TicfHm.png" alt="The wings I made for my headset" /></a></p>
<p>The wings I made for my headset (the weird glow on the wings is the resin, by the way).</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-08-14T18:40:50.123Z
2024-08-14T20:12:30.860Z
2024-08-14T20:12:30.860Z
Angel Dust
<p>Two things I can think of:<br><br>
Make sure the design is not fragile. The dragon of your example looks strong enough, but if you create a deer with thin legs, for example, I think it's more likely to break. Especially if you'd attach a large flower to one of the legs, so there is a thin connection between two heavier parts.
<br><br>
Also, be aware that letters and parcels are not being treated carefully during transport, so make sure you protect your art when you mail it. Do you put it between two pieces of strong cardboard, with some plastic wrap around it, for instance?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-17T19:06:12.500Z
I often follow legitimate sprite art pieces due to customer request. Often they are Pokémon sprites used in their respective games. As for shipping, while I don't do those ideas suggested, I reinforce the corners and angles with dowels to keep from being smashed, then inline the box with two layers of bubble wrap, then wrap the piece of work gift tissue paper. Then fill the box with packing pellets.
ArkaiTheWolf03
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-24T17:06:21.113Z
2016-09-24T17:06:21.113Z
Ji Ugug
<p>Two methods:  </p>

<ol>
<li>Easy, just pour liquid super glue (not the gel-ish but the fully liquid one, like water consistency) all over the art after you've completed it. It's plastic so I'm hoping it will be reversible if you'd try to detach them.  </li>
<li>A little too over the top, but what you can do is before starting the melting process, just after you're done sorting them according to colors and setting them, make a little hole in them horizontally (like the one that already exists, but from the other side) and then passing a thread through all of them in the exact order, like you would do for a garland. And then tie the thread at the end. This way they'll all be connected after and before melting them (and for the reversible - just cut the thread and they'll easily fall apart) (I personally did this with a bracelet i once made for my girlfriend).</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-10-10T15:05:44.347Z
You're thinking in the right direction with the super glue idea, but super glue isn't the best material.  It's brittle and doesn't have any strength in the direction that would be helpful for this.  But some other clear glues that are of the type that form a strong film would work.  Even PVA glue (Elmers or "school glue") or Weldbond Universal Adhesive (clear and stays clear) would add strength as you suggest.  Hot melt glue could also be good on the back (go over it with a heat gun at a lower setting to melt it to a thin consistency so it flows and flattens out).  Keep those ideas coming!
fixer1234
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-10-10T07:21:55.730Z
2019-10-10T08:39:24.390Z
2019-10-10T08:39:24.390Z
Aryan
<p>What about using a clear lacquer or resin? 
If they have a solid layer over them it would make them stronger, I'm guessing they break between the beads when they do get broken.
It will add some expense but you could use a caulking gun &amp; silicone to make your moulds if you wanted to pour acrylic over them. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-10-09T03:13:26.353Z
2019-10-09T03:13:26.353Z
SAM A
<p>With your particular project, heating time might be adjusted to a longer heat time (slowly testing) for better viscious welding of the individual pieces. </p>

<p>As with many materials, tempering is the answer.  Steel, Brass, Glass, and many plastics. </p>

<p>Heating to a non-melting temperature, then slowly cooling over a long period of time.  It is a "recipe" different for each material.  One reason blacksmiths were said to have knowledge of the <strong>Black Arts</strong></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-10-09T00:46:00.777Z
2019-10-09T00:46:00.777Z
Joel Huebner
<p>So I build pixel-esque bead arts for people for gifts and such. But when I need to send them places, they sometimes fall apart.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LrG0x.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LrG0x.jpg" alt="Pixel Art"></a></p>

<p><a href="http://gragola.deviantart.com/art/Charizard-Pixel-Bead-Art-325327191" rel="noreferrer">Charizard Pixel Bead Art </a></p>

<p>(Example above is not my work. Belongs to another artist.)
It is just a referential image.</p>

<p>And I am just wondering how to strengthen the bonds between the beads to make them more durable without changing how it looks since it is meant as an image.</p>

<p>Would really appreciate some help.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-24T14:23:19.690Z
This is a good example of what you do though? Melted bead art? Is it possible it is that you are not sufficiently melting it or perhaps as issue that allows it to bend while it is shipping?
Matt
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-24T18:13:45.770Z
After looking into the processes of melted bead art I would like to hear how _you_ do it as there are multiple approaches and preferences that come into play. Some people melt both sides for instance.
Matt
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-17T18:53:51.687Z
It does indeed need to be reversible. Some people that get this stuff from me want reversible pieces. My process is with an iron and paper ironing sheet. I do fuse both sides.
ArkaiTheWolf03
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-26T12:50:05.317Z
did you ever get an answer for this as in a product to use? i do very large HAMA projects myself usually at about 50x50 cm at least and it gets a bit nerve wracking when moving about to the frames etc, would like a way of strengthening ones that are not framed before posting, maybe like a lacquer spray?
danny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-08-15T14:55:59.860Z
It sounds like they break in shipping. When packaging the item try sandwiching the art between two slabs of cardboard so that the cardboard takes the impacts of the shipping process.
David D
<preservation><beads>
How can I strengthen my melted bead art?
ArkaiTheWolf03
# How can I strengthen my melted bead art?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-09-24)

So I build pixel-esque bead arts for people for gifts and such. But when I need to send them places, they sometimes fall apart.

[![Pixel Art](https://i.sstatic.net/LrG0x.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/LrG0x.jpg)

[Charizard Pixel Bead Art](http://gragola.deviantart.com/art/Charizard-Pixel-Bead-Art-325327191)

(Example above is not my work. Belongs to another artist.)
It is just a referential image.

And I am just wondering how to strengthen the bonds between the beads to make them more durable without changing how it looks since it is meant as an image.

Would really appreciate some help.

**Tags:** preservation, beads

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: This is a good example of what you do though? Melted bead art? Is it possible it is that you are not sufficiently melting it or perhaps as issue that allows it to bend while it is shipping?  
> **username_1**: After looking into the processes of melted bead art I would like to hear how _you_ do it as there are multiple approaches and preferences that come into play. Some people melt both sides for instance.  
> **username_0**: It does indeed need to be reversible. Some people that get this stuff from me want reversible pieces. My process is with an iron and paper ironing sheet. I do fuse both sides.  
> **username_2**: did you ever get an answer for this as in a product to use? i do very large HAMA projects myself usually at about 50x50 cm at least and it gets a bit nerve wracking when moving about to the frames etc, would like a way of strengthening ones that are not framed before posting, maybe like a lacquer spray?  
> **username_3**: It sounds like they break in shipping. When packaging the item try sandwiching the art between two slabs of cardboard so that the cardboard takes the impacts of the shipping process.  

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2024-08-14. Score: 2

This is kind of an expensive option, but I used resin in order to make the beads harder.  
It's like 50 euros for a big bottle of resin, but if you're careful enough, you can make a bottle last for a very long time.

[![The wings I made for my headset](https://i.sstatic.net/533TicfHm.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/533TicfH.png)

The wings I made for my headset (the weird glow on the wings is the resin, by the way).


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2016-09-24. Score: 2

Two things I can think of:  
  
Make sure the design is not fragile. The dragon of your example looks strong enough, but if you create a deer with thin legs, for example, I think it's more likely to break. Especially if you'd attach a large flower to one of the legs, so there is a thin connection between two heavier parts.
  
  
Also, be aware that letters and parcels are not being treated carefully during transport, so make sure you protect your art when you mail it. Do you put it between two pieces of strong cardboard, with some plastic wrap around it, for instance?

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I often follow legitimate sprite art pieces due to customer request. Often they are Pokémon sprites used in their respective games. As for shipping, while I don't do those ideas suggested, I reinforce the corners and angles with dowels to keep from being smashed, then inline the box with two layers of bubble wrap, then wrap the piece of work gift tissue paper. Then fill the box with packing pellets.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-10-10. Score: 0

Two methods:

1. Easy, just pour liquid super glue (not the gel-ish but the fully liquid one, like water consistency) all over the art after you've completed it. It's plastic so I'm hoping it will be reversible if you'd try to detach them.
2. A little too over the top, but what you can do is before starting the melting process, just after you're done sorting them according to colors and setting them, make a little hole in them horizontally (like the one that already exists, but from the other side) and then passing a thread through all of them in the exact order, like you would do for a garland. And then tie the thread at the end. This way they'll all be connected after and before melting them (and for the reversible - just cut the thread and they'll easily fall apart) (I personally did this with a bracelet i once made for my girlfriend).

> **Comments:**
> **username_7**: You're thinking in the right direction with the super glue idea, but super glue isn't the best material.  It's brittle and doesn't have any strength in the direction that would be helpful for this.  But some other clear glues that are of the type that form a strong film would work.  Even PVA glue (Elmers or "school glue") or Weldbond Universal Adhesive (clear and stays clear) would add strength as you suggest.  Hot melt glue could also be good on the back (go over it with a heat gun at a lower setting to melt it to a thin consistency so it flows and flattens out).  Keep those ideas coming!  

---

### Answer by username_8 on 2019-10-09. Score: 0

What about using a clear lacquer or resin?
If they have a solid layer over them it would make them stronger, I'm guessing they break between the beads when they do get broken.
It will add some expense but you could use a caulking gun & silicone to make your moulds if you wanted to pour acrylic over them.


---

### Answer by username_9 on 2019-10-09. Score: 0

With your particular project, heating time might be adjusted to a longer heat time (slowly testing) for better viscious welding of the individual pieces.

As with many materials, tempering is the answer. Steel, Brass, Glass, and many plastics.

Heating to a non-melting temperature, then slowly cooling over a long period of time. It is a "recipe" different for each material. One reason blacksmiths were said to have knowledge of the **Black Arts**


---

