<p>That seam looks like <strong>topstitching</strong>. It's done using a straight stitch, typically set to a longer stitch length than construction seams. Topstitching can be a decorative finishing technique, but also serves the purpose of keeping seams flat and in place.</p>

<p>It looks like the example is made of a leather-like material - topstitching is very common for that, since the material won't fray and tucking the raw edges under would make seams very bulky.</p>

<p>If you want to do the stitching for this particular item by machine, you can try holding the pocket out so only the pocket edge is under the presser foot, but you will have to be careful when feeding it through to keep the seam even. This looks possible with the pattern - since you haven't stitched the ends of the wallet yet, it'll be like sewing half of a cuff (only a bit more stubborn depending on how stiff the leather is).</p>

<p>It would be easier to topstitch the pocket <em>before</em> assembling, so it's just a flat piece you run through the machine, but that would require changing the pattern so the back section and the pocket sections are separate rather than one continuous piece.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-03-09T11:29:10.103Z
How can I use the sewing machine so it doesn't stitch through all layers of leather but only the ones that form the pocket? If I passed the entire leather under the sewing machine I'd permanently close the pocket underneath the seam. :-(
Numielle
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-03-09T13:45:48.063Z
@Numielle added more info! I think it should be doable with the machine. Hopefully the explanation makes sense, I can try adding a picture later if needed :)
user812786
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-03-08T13:02:47.890Z
2017-03-09T13:44:15.580Z
2017-03-09T13:44:15.580Z
user812786
<p>I'm a beginner with respect to sewing and I'm wondering how I can use my Brother 847 to accomplish the following seam: </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Y66rn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Y66rn.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>For some context you may check out this video: <a href="https://video.bellroy.com/test.mp4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://video.bellroy.com/test.mp4</a></p>

<p>Does this kind of seam/technique have a name I can search for? </p>

<sewing>
How to sew this seam with a Brother 847 sewing machine?
Numielle
# How to sew this seam with a Brother 847 sewing machine?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-03-07)

I'm a beginner with respect to sewing and I'm wondering how I can use my Brother 847 to accomplish the following seam:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/Y66rn.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/Y66rn.png)

For some context you may check out this video: <https://video.bellroy.com/test.mp4>

Does this kind of seam/technique have a name I can search for?

**Tags:** sewing


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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-03-08. Score: 2

That seam looks like **topstitching**. It's done using a straight stitch, typically set to a longer stitch length than construction seams. Topstitching can be a decorative finishing technique, but also serves the purpose of keeping seams flat and in place.

It looks like the example is made of a leather-like material - topstitching is very common for that, since the material won't fray and tucking the raw edges under would make seams very bulky.

If you want to do the stitching for this particular item by machine, you can try holding the pocket out so only the pocket edge is under the presser foot, but you will have to be careful when feeding it through to keep the seam even. This looks possible with the pattern - since you haven't stitched the ends of the wallet yet, it'll be like sewing half of a cuff (only a bit more stubborn depending on how stiff the leather is).

It would be easier to topstitch the pocket *before* assembling, so it's just a flat piece you run through the machine, but that would require changing the pattern so the back section and the pocket sections are separate rather than one continuous piece.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: How can I use the sewing machine so it doesn't stitch through all layers of leather but only the ones that form the pocket? If I passed the entire leather under the sewing machine I'd permanently close the pocket underneath the seam. :-(  
> **username_1**: @username_0 added more info! I think it should be doable with the machine. Hopefully the explanation makes sense, I can try adding a picture later if needed :)  

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