<p>The only thing that comes to mind is the application of asphaltum or bitumen of the type used to prepare a hard ground for etching. If you do it quickly and burnish off the raised areas, you should get something like niello...</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-08-29T15:57:42.397Z
Wouldn't this always be rubbing off, as well as running and staying sticky if it gets too warm?
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-08-29T16:04:18.560Z
Well, the epoxide type of etching ground really only comes off with a solvent, and asphaltum / bitumen is probably as good as the ancients could have managed, and much better than waiting 1000 years for pollution to do its job. With modern techniques I would probably go with dip with a 2k and surface buff, but OP asked for traditional methods.
Nothingismagick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-08-29T16:16:19.993Z
I see now that the museum calls it an inlaid compound; would have thought it was a chemically induced oxidizing process... like you just said! They could have done it back in the day as the chemicals are not that exotic and they were firing the metals to make pieces so high heat would not be a problem.
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-08-03T16:55:03.700Z
2018-08-03T16:55:03.700Z
Nothingismagick
<p>I think you will have to age the alloy first, and clean the higher areas afterwards.</p>

<p>For tarnishing, you can use <a href="http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47169" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Palmolive</a>, or any kind of washing liquid that has sulphates in it.
<br>Another, more aggressive option, but only viable for solid, thick brass objects, is to use <a href="https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/instant-patina-for-brass" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ammonia</a>.
<br>The most traditional choice, however, would be to <strong>use a mixture of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcM79XGzs2Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">salt and vinegar</a></strong>.
<p>In all cases, you can leave the brass object in the liquid for an extended period of time, or rub it in with a piece of cloth, which will give you more control.
<br>After the tarnishing, you can use either <a href="https://www.mnn.com/your-home/at-home/stories/how-to-clean-brass-naturally" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ketchup, a mixture of vinegar, salt and flour, lemon juice, or soap,</a> to brighten the brass again.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-01T23:02:25.713Z
2018-12-01T23:02:25.713Z
Joachim
<p>I have some brassware with nice engraved designs that I'd like to bring out. If it were silver or gold, I'd use <a href="https://www.ganoksin.com/article/niello-metal-mixture/" rel="noreferrer">niello</a>, but that apparently doesn't work on brass. I could try and do something to oxidise the whole surface and polish the oxidation off of the high points of the engraving, but ideally I'd like something darker.</p>

<p>I can see from pieces like this:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Apnki.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Apnki.png" alt="Engraved lamp stand"></a>
<em><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/443176" rel="noreferrer">Engraved lamp stand from the Met Museum</a>, public domain</em></p>

<p>that such a finish is achievable, but the entry just lists it as </p>

<blockquote>
  <p>Brass; cast, engraved, and inlaid with black compound</p>
</blockquote>

<p><strong>So, what is the equivalent to niello which can be used to selectively darken recessed areas of a brass object?</strong></p>

<p>I'd prefer more traditional methods, as opposed to simply spray painting the whole thing black and rubbing it off the high points, if possible.</p>

<medium-selection><metal>
What is the equivalent to niello for brass?
walrus
# What is the equivalent to niello for brass?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-08-03)

I have some brassware with nice engraved designs that I'd like to bring out. If it were silver or gold, I'd use [niello](https://www.ganoksin.com/article/niello-metal-mixture/), but that apparently doesn't work on brass. I could try and do something to oxidise the whole surface and polish the oxidation off of the high points of the engraving, but ideally I'd like something darker.

I can see from pieces like this:

[![Engraved lamp stand](https://i.sstatic.net/Apnki.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/Apnki.png)
*[Engraved lamp stand from the Met Museum](https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/443176), public domain*

that such a finish is achievable, but the entry just lists it as

> Brass; cast, engraved, and inlaid with black compound

**So, what is the equivalent to niello which can be used to selectively darken recessed areas of a brass object?**

I'd prefer more traditional methods, as opposed to simply spray painting the whole thing black and rubbing it off the high points, if possible.

**Tags:** medium-selection, metal


---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-12-01. Score: 4 | Accepted answer

I think you will have to age the alloy first, and clean the higher areas afterwards.

For tarnishing, you can use [Palmolive](http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47169), or any kind of washing liquid that has sulphates in it.
  
Another, more aggressive option, but only viable for solid, thick brass objects, is to use [ammonia](https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/instant-patina-for-brass).
  
The most traditional choice, however, would be to **use a mixture of [salt and vinegar](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcM79XGzs2Q)**.

In all cases, you can leave the brass object in the liquid for an extended period of time, or rub it in with a piece of cloth, which will give you more control.
  
After the tarnishing, you can use either [ketchup, a mixture of vinegar, salt and flour, lemon juice, or soap,](https://www.mnn.com/your-home/at-home/stories/how-to-clean-brass-naturally) to brighten the brass again.


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### Answer by username_1 on 2018-08-03. Score: 0

The only thing that comes to mind is the application of asphaltum or bitumen of the type used to prepare a hard ground for etching. If you do it quickly and burnish off the raised areas, you should get something like niello...

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Wouldn't this always be rubbing off, as well as running and staying sticky if it gets too warm?  
> **username_1**: Well, the epoxide type of etching ground really only comes off with a solvent, and asphaltum / bitumen is probably as good as the ancients could have managed, and much better than waiting 1000 years for pollution to do its job. With modern techniques I would probably go with dip with a 2k and surface buff, but OP asked for traditional methods.  
> **username_2**: I see now that the museum calls it an inlaid compound; would have thought it was a chemically induced oxidizing process... like you just said! They could have done it back in the day as the chemicals are not that exotic and they were firing the metals to make pieces so high heat would not be a problem.  

---

