<p>Wood of the nature you describe can be considered absorbent and as such, can be reinforced with a superglue. Apply to both sides in the area you are drilling and allow to cure/dry.</p>
<p>This will further bond the fibers of the wood, providing a reduction in the chance of splitting. One could use an ordinary wood glue in place of the CYA but it is going to be more viscous and will not migrate as deeply into the surface.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-13T11:30:54.627Z
While I do not enjoy the idea of additional investment, and the fact that the unused superglue cures inside the tube and becomes useless (and therefore expensive waste), the idea is actually quite good. It did not even cross my mind. For the moment, just one upvote :)
virolino
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-13T10:53:30.200Z
2024-09-13T10:53:30.200Z
fred_dot_u
<p>Those stir sticks are pretty insubstantial so are not likely to handle much manipulation before breaking anyway. Here are a few suggestions.</p>
<p>First: try wrapping the stick with masking or art tape before drilling. That may keep things together, but be aware if the tape is too sticky it may split the stir stick when you try to remove it.</p>
<p>Second: maybe a make small jig consisting of two pieces of stronger material with a pre-drilled guide hole that can clamp the material you are drilling securely.</p>
<p>The two together would be the most secure. I think if that doesn't work you will need to go to a stronger material. Which leads to a another idea, inspired by fred_dot_u's suggestion.</p>
<p>Third: Try gluing (with wood glue, not superglue) two or more sticks together and let them dry before drilling. That may give you the extra material stength you need to support putting holes in the sticks.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-10-06T11:25:30.353Z
The tape can be used sticky-side out, but I suspect it will be too fiddly at the scale of a stir stick.
Andrew Morton
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-19T15:18:16.507Z
2024-09-19T16:51:33.693Z
2024-09-19T16:51:33.693Z
rebusB
<p>From the information given in comments, it appears that you've only been using a power drill or dremel; the speed of those, even at their slowest setting, can be too much for thin, cheap wood and can cause splintering and breakage.</p>
<p>Instead, try a <strong>pin vise</strong>; these are hand-controlled holders for drill bits, allowing better control and much slower speeds that are less likely to cause damage to the wood. They're typically inexpensive, and can take a variety of smaller bits.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-16T17:18:30.960Z
2024-09-16T17:18:30.960Z
Allison C
<p>I'd drill a stack of them at one time, clamped between two pieces of scrapwood in a vice so that the sides are pressed together against the risk of splitting. The stack gives you something thick enough to clamp onto.</p>
<p>Then I might use my wheel brace (egg beater drill) because you can go gently and feel if the wood grabs the bit. If it does you can go backwards for a turn or two to break off the grabby strands of wood. A pin vice would be an alternative to the wheel brace if you have one. I don't, but use a tap wrench (used when putting threads in holes in metalworking) instead. The key is to go very gently both in rotation and pressure.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T05:53:46.710Z
The idea is interesting, and it might work if I would make some small series production. +1 anyway, because it might help others
virolino
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T06:03:43.843Z
@virolino I guess you obtained the sticks singly then. If I have any it's because I bought a bag of 1000. Or do you not have the tools? Perhaps given some answers and comments it might be worth saying what you do have in the way of drills and clamps. I once prototyped a slide out bed base with matchsticks so I have a feel for how fiddly it is (but I didn't have to drill them)
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T10:28:26.817Z
I get my sticks by asking at cafes - and I get any number, 5, 15, as it happens to be caught between the fingers. I do not need to buy 1000 pieces for sure. And the fact that they are for free, is a huge advantage.
virolino
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T11:40:53.577Z
In that case drilling a few extra seems feasible. I only had so many because of using them to label plants after sowing a single seed in each of many tiny pots
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T05:50:21.237Z
2024-09-17T05:50:21.237Z
Chris H
<p>I want to create small prototypes of mechanisms out of coffee sticks (the ones used as tea-spoons for coffee).</p>
<p>One of the best places to drill holes (according to the needs of the mechanism) is at the end of this stick - which is incredibly fragile. While I try to make the hole, the wood just splits.</p>
<p>I tried to make a &quot;tool&quot; to keep the wood of the stick together while drilling, to no success (possibly, I used the wrong material and inaccurate precision). Holes are to be made in other places along the length, but they are not as problematic.</p>
<p>The end result needs to be something quite similar with the joint of any ordinary pair of scissors.</p>
<p>I used drills for metal, as well as drills for wood. The result is equally bad. I consider drills for glass or for cement obviously bad, and I also do not take into consideration percussion-drilling.</p>
<p>While the diameters of the holes are not normally essential, they still need to match the toothpicks (or other similar kitchen-specific sticks) - which will act as bolts, keeping the joint together.</p>
<p>I tried also to use some fine files instead of drilling bits, but the results is again not OK. All of them exert too much sideways forces - splitting the wood.</p>
<p>Using the same thin file manually to drill the hole has a chance to give good results - but it takes way too long, even for one hole.</p>
<hr />
<p>Similar sticks made of plastic might be less fragile, but:</p>
<ul>
<li>I do not see them anywhere (unless I go internet-shopping for them) - and plastic is a terrible polluter;</li>
<li>I can get the wood sticks for free from pretty much anywhere.</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-13T14:50:42.477Z
How large does the hole need to be? Have you been using only a power drill, or have you tried a pin vise?
Allison C
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-15T13:32:18.767Z
A good sharp bit should be able to drill even thin fragile wood. Perhaps you are pushing too hard when drilling.
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-16T05:38:19.367Z
@AllisonC: The diameter of the hole should be about 1-2 mm. I mentioned the toothpicks as examples of things to fit the hole. About the pin vise, I do not have one, and I also did not think about it. It might actually work.
virolino
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-17T19:17:16.117Z
Things that come to mind. Are the holes too big for the sticks so not enough wood is left to stay intact? Are the bits you are using sharp and made for the wood you are using? Are you using too much force when drilling? Is the stick secure and unable to move when being drilled?
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-18T05:22:33.367Z
@rebusB: That is the root of the problem - there is very little material in those sticks to begin with. The bits are sharp, but nobody makes bits for sticks.
virolino
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-19T15:03:42.757Z
Oh... I was picturing classic popsicle sticks. Today's stir sticks are made with the absolute minimum material they can use that will still hold a vague stick shape. Late stage capitalism for you; those things will splinter on their own.
rebusB
<wood><woodworking>
Drilling holes through thin narrow piece of wood
virolino
# Drilling holes through thin narrow piece of wood

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-09-13)

I want to create small prototypes of mechanisms out of coffee sticks (the ones used as tea-spoons for coffee).

One of the best places to drill holes (according to the needs of the mechanism) is at the end of this stick - which is incredibly fragile. While I try to make the hole, the wood just splits.

I tried to make a "tool" to keep the wood of the stick together while drilling, to no success (possibly, I used the wrong material and inaccurate precision). Holes are to be made in other places along the length, but they are not as problematic.

The end result needs to be something quite similar with the joint of any ordinary pair of scissors.

I used drills for metal, as well as drills for wood. The result is equally bad. I consider drills for glass or for cement obviously bad, and I also do not take into consideration percussion-drilling.

While the diameters of the holes are not normally essential, they still need to match the toothpicks (or other similar kitchen-specific sticks) - which will act as bolts, keeping the joint together.

I tried also to use some fine files instead of drilling bits, but the results is again not OK. All of them exert too much sideways forces - splitting the wood.

Using the same thin file manually to drill the hole has a chance to give good results - but it takes way too long, even for one hole.

---

Similar sticks made of plastic might be less fragile, but:

* I do not see them anywhere (unless I go internet-shopping for them) - and plastic is a terrible polluter;
* I can get the wood sticks for free from pretty much anywhere.

**Tags:** wood, woodworking

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: How large does the hole need to be? Have you been using only a power drill, or have you tried a pin vise?  
> **username_2**: A good sharp bit should be able to drill even thin fragile wood. Perhaps you are pushing too hard when drilling.  
> **username_0**: @AllisonC: The diameter of the hole should be about 1-2 mm. I mentioned the toothpicks as examples of things to fit the hole. About the pin vise, I do not have one, and I also did not think about it. It might actually work.  
> **username_2**: Things that come to mind. Are the holes too big for the sticks so not enough wood is left to stay intact? Are the bits you are using sharp and made for the wood you are using? Are you using too much force when drilling? Is the stick secure and unable to move when being drilled?  
> **username_0**: @username_2: That is the root of the problem - there is very little material in those sticks to begin with. The bits are sharp, but nobody makes bits for sticks.  
> **username_2**: Oh... I was picturing classic popsicle sticks. Today's stir sticks are made with the absolute minimum material they can use that will still hold a vague stick shape. Late stage capitalism for you; those things will splinter on their own.  

---

## 4 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2024-09-13. Score: 3

Wood of the nature you describe can be considered absorbent and as such, can be reinforced with a superglue. Apply to both sides in the area you are drilling and allow to cure/dry.

This will further bond the fibers of the wood, providing a reduction in the chance of splitting. One could use an ordinary wood glue in place of the CYA but it is going to be more viscous and will not migrate as deeply into the surface.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: While I do not enjoy the idea of additional investment, and the fact that the unused superglue cures inside the tube and becomes useless (and therefore expensive waste), the idea is actually quite good. It did not even cross my mind. For the moment, just one upvote :)  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2024-09-19. Score: 3

Those stir sticks are pretty insubstantial so are not likely to handle much manipulation before breaking anyway. Here are a few suggestions.

First: try wrapping the stick with masking or art tape before drilling. That may keep things together, but be aware if the tape is too sticky it may split the stir stick when you try to remove it.

Second: maybe a make small jig consisting of two pieces of stronger material with a pre-drilled guide hole that can clamp the material you are drilling securely.

The two together would be the most secure. I think if that doesn't work you will need to go to a stronger material. Which leads to a another idea, inspired by fred\_dot\_u's suggestion.

Third: Try gluing (with wood glue, not superglue) two or more sticks together and let them dry before drilling. That may give you the extra material stength you need to support putting holes in the sticks.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: The tape can be used sticky-side out, but I suspect it will be too fiddly at the scale of a stir stick.  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2024-09-16. Score: 2

From the information given in comments, it appears that you've only been using a power drill or dremel; the speed of those, even at their slowest setting, can be too much for thin, cheap wood and can cause splintering and breakage.

Instead, try a **pin vise**; these are hand-controlled holders for drill bits, allowing better control and much slower speeds that are less likely to cause damage to the wood. They're typically inexpensive, and can take a variety of smaller bits.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2024-09-17. Score: 2

I'd drill a stack of them at one time, clamped between two pieces of scrapwood in a vice so that the sides are pressed together against the risk of splitting. The stack gives you something thick enough to clamp onto.

Then I might use my wheel brace (egg beater drill) because you can go gently and feel if the wood grabs the bit. If it does you can go backwards for a turn or two to break off the grabby strands of wood. A pin vice would be an alternative to the wheel brace if you have one. I don't, but use a tap wrench (used when putting threads in holes in metalworking) instead. The key is to go very gently both in rotation and pressure.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The idea is interesting, and it might work if I would make some small series production. +1 anyway, because it might help others  
> **username_5**: @username_0 I guess you obtained the sticks singly then. If I have any it's because I bought a bag of 1000. Or do you not have the tools? Perhaps given some answers and comments it might be worth saying what you do have in the way of drills and clamps. I once prototyped a slide out bed base with matchsticks so I have a feel for how fiddly it is (but I didn't have to drill them)  
> **username_0**: I get my sticks by asking at cafes - and I get any number, 5, 15, as it happens to be caught between the fingers. I do not need to buy 1000 pieces for sure. And the fact that they are for free, is a huge advantage.  
> **username_5**: In that case drilling a few extra seems feasible. I only had so many because of using them to label plants after sowing a single seed in each of many tiny pots  

---

