<p>Look for clear epoxies, sometimes sold for encapsulating.  They'll stick fairly well to both materials, though presumably not as well as epoxy sold as glue. You have a lot of contact area so the bond will be strong anyway.  A two part epoxy should be quite cheap - if you can get an appropriate size pack, and I'd expect curing over a few hours though you might be able to get quicker.</p>

<p>To have it as clear as possible, you need to make sure that you apply enough to fill the gap and get all the air out.</p>

<p>I've bonded two sheets of clear plastic (one acrylic, one unknown) using ordinary glue epoxy (i.e. not meant to be transparent). That was good but not good enough for your needs. It was very slightly milky, and it cured before I had time to make a jig that would apply enough so I had a few bubbles.</p>

<p>It is possible to sand and even polish (with fine wet-or-dry paper) cured epoxy, so it could be used to seal the edges as well.  This might be too much work though.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T11:56:40.123Z
2016-06-01T12:23:43.913Z
2016-06-01T12:23:43.913Z
Chris H
<p>Instead of epoxy, an alternative is using peg mounts, similar to sword hilts/knives.</p>

<p>If you are worried about the epoxy yellowing, you can drill two holes and insert pegs to secure the acrylic to the wood. It would still be aesthetically pleasing to look at while securing the two pieces together.</p>

<p>Most craft stores sell pegs in all sizes. Or you can make you own pegs depending on how big you want the hole size to be. For something like a key chain, you could use a 1/16 drill bit and then insert pegs for a clean look.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T16:14:30.107Z
Would an adhesive still be needed to ensure the pegs don't work their way loose over time? (Much _less_ adhesive, obviously.)
Erica
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T18:35:31.973Z
Well that depends on the project at hand and the type of peg. Adhesive is usually used on wood pegs, but if you use metal, you should be fine as long as the hole you drill isnt bigger than the peg you are using. Most of the time the peg should fit just about right in a way that you need to use a robber mallet to tap it in. But a little adhesive never hurts. Better to be safe than sorry :D
Tom Park
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T13:49:23.513Z
2016-06-01T16:13:36.510Z
2016-06-01T16:13:36.510Z
Tom Park
<p>I have used West Systems wood epoxies with great results. They are strictly professional grade and have a huge range of products. Here is their clear product and it addresses the UV issue as well. (As I recall their system is a two-part epoxy with interchangeable Fillers and Hardeners.)</p>

<p><a href="http://www.westsystem.com/ss/207-special-clear-hardener" rel="nofollow">West Systems 207 clear hardener</a></p>

<p>from the description: </p>

<blockquote>
  <p>105/207 has strong physical properties, so it can be used as a structural adhesive for gluing and laminating. It has excellent compatibility with paints and varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibitor in 207 helps provide a beautiful, long lasting finish when used with quality UV filtering varnish. 105/207 cures clear and colorless.</p>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T23:17:35.853Z
2016-06-02T02:37:12.187Z
2016-06-02T02:37:12.187Z
rebusB
<p>I have both the 1:1 and 2:1 epoxies. One is glue and one is for crafts requiring clear pours. Another is a couple 4 oz containers.  Last year I used about a gallon laminating pieces of acrylic with wood, then turning them on my lathe.</p>
<p>I also used some commercial grade cyanoacrylate glue (a.k.a. Super Glue).</p>
<p>In both instances, I scuffed the surfaces. For the epoxy, I used to 60 grit (increased from lighter grits used earlier and that had the same problem) because the epoxy fills gaps fine, compared to things like Gorilla glue.</p>
<p>The pieces I turned came out wonderfully, but the joints using the epoxies were nowhere near dependable, but that only showed with time. The cyanoacrylate did better.</p>
<p>Many of the finished pieces on which I used epoxy were stored in my garage and came apart in the high heat of summer. A few came apart when the finished item was dropped.</p>
<p>To be clear, I have not tried West systems, but I question whether the joint would do any better.</p>
<p>I am yet looking to other means of joining wood and acrylic, since the pieces I make will be used for things like walking sticks, so could see the high heat of a car on a got summer day.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-01T02:21:58.770Z
Welcome to Arts & Crafts.  It sounds like you have a lot of good experience, so I look forward to more of your contributions.  On this particular answer, it isn't clear what solution you're recommending (what answers are supposed to be).  There's a lot of good information, but it seems more like a progress report and you're still looking for a solution, yourself (so it's more in the nature of commentary).  If I'm missing it, can you edit the answer to make the solution clearer?  Thanks.
fixer1234
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-01T02:04:45.593Z
2020-08-01T02:23:10.480Z
2020-08-01T02:23:10.480Z
Kelly
<p>Consider a clear-drying epoxy. Note that not all epoxies are equal. In a general sense they can bond different materials together with ease.</p>

<p>Here is an earlier epoxy advertisement where <a href="http://go-araldite.com/" rel="noreferrer">they glued a car to a billboard with an epoxy resin.</a> </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SewZh.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SewZh.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<blockquote>
  <p><sup>1983 a visual stunt presentation was set up to show the strength of Araldite by gluing a yellow Ford Cortina to a billboard on Cromwell Road, London, with the tagline "It also sticks handles to teapots".</sup></p>
</blockquote>

<p>You can usually get 2 part epoxies in a dual syringe form and they are very economical. Depending how often you do this you might want to try a smaller one first as the shelf life of the product varies once used. </p>

<blockquote>
  <p>Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.</p>
</blockquote>

<p>Only part about this that does not meet your requirements is that they have a longer curing time then something like a craft glue. Setting inside an hour but fully curing over several days is needed in some cases. </p>

<p>The resin and hardener are kept separately as liquids, hence the dual syringe. In larger applications they would be two separate containers. I would suggest not applying directly to your project from the syringe but onto a disposable piece of cardboard or similar. That way you can manually mix the liquids together (usually 1:1 ratio) to ensure an effective reaction. Then use an applicator (craft sticks) to apply to the project.</p>

<p>You are going to want to clamp this down with decent pressure. There would be the issue of seepage while setting you need to be aware of. Depending on how intricate your cuts are the solution will come out of the wood acrylic sandwich. You want to try and wipe that off <em>before</em>  it sets. Epoxy resins dry really hard so if you have to cut part of it off it will no longer show clear on the cut. You can polish the edges once it cures with extra fine sand paper and / or a polishing compound.</p>

<hr>

<p>A long term issue is that set epoxies can yellow over time because of UV radiation. That is likely a moot point as you are making a key chain. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T12:22:29.053Z
Definitely mix before applying, and try to apply evenly as well.
Chris H
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-02T06:53:07.157Z
I can vouch for the effectiveness of Araldite. It will easily bond acrylic to wood. It's nasty smelling stuff until it's fully cured though. Best used outdoors or with very good ventilation.
user1751825
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-02T06:54:17.693Z
One potential drawback with Araldite. It typically sets very quickly. You'll have only a few minutes working time.
user1751825
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-02T10:22:08.983Z
@user1751825 Araldite is just one of the many 2 parts that exist. Most epoxies don't have long set times though so it is important to plan ahead.
Matt
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-03T05:57:35.967Z
@User1751825 you can buy araldite in "rapid" and "precision" (plenty of time to adjust the job) varieties. When using the latter I leave the piece supported for 24 hours in a warm room. I don't find them clear enough for this though.
Chris H
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T11:57:55.733Z
2016-06-01T13:20:14.983Z
2016-06-01T13:20:14.983Z
Matt
<p>I am trying to glue a piece of clear acrylic 2mm thick to a piece of plywood that is 5mm thick. They are both 76mm by 50mm and rectangular in shape. They have some cutouts in the middle. It's supposed to be a keychain. </p>

<p>Both are laser cut pieces, if that is important. They are cut exactly the same but I am sandwiching them together for aesthetics. </p>

<p>What adhesives can I use that will cure optically clear, i.e. does not discolor or remain noticeable in the acrylic-wood sandwich? Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T13:49:23.513Z
Instead of epoxy, have you considered using peg mounts similar to sword hilts/knives?
Tom Park
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-01T15:38:45.160Z
I removed the last question as it greatly changes the scope of the question. If you want to explore other methods of joining these two materials I would suggest asking another question and try to be as specific as possible.
Matt
<adhesives><wood><acrylic-paint>
How do you bond clear acrylic to wood?
Darren
# How do you bond clear acrylic to wood?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-06-01)

I am trying to glue a piece of clear acrylic 2mm thick to a piece of plywood that is 5mm thick. They are both 76mm by 50mm and rectangular in shape. They have some cutouts in the middle. It's supposed to be a keychain.

Both are laser cut pieces, if that is important. They are cut exactly the same but I am sandwiching them together for aesthetics.

What adhesives can I use that will cure optically clear, i.e. does not discolor or remain noticeable in the acrylic-wood sandwich? Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.

**Tags:** adhesives, wood, acrylic-paint

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Instead of epoxy, have you considered using peg mounts similar to sword hilts/knives?  
> **username_2**: I removed the last question as it greatly changes the scope of the question. If you want to explore other methods of joining these two materials I would suggest asking another question and try to be as specific as possible.  

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2016-06-01. Score: 13 | Accepted answer

Consider a clear-drying epoxy. Note that not all epoxies are equal. In a general sense they can bond different materials together with ease.

Here is an earlier epoxy advertisement where [they glued a car to a billboard with an epoxy resin.](http://go-araldite.com/)

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/SewZh.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/SewZh.jpg)

> 1983 a visual stunt presentation was set up to show the strength of Araldite by gluing a yellow Ford Cortina to a billboard on Cromwell Road, London, with the tagline "It also sticks handles to teapots".

You can usually get 2 part epoxies in a dual syringe form and they are very economical. Depending how often you do this you might want to try a smaller one first as the shelf life of the product varies once used.

> Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.

Only part about this that does not meet your requirements is that they have a longer curing time then something like a craft glue. Setting inside an hour but fully curing over several days is needed in some cases.

The resin and hardener are kept separately as liquids, hence the dual syringe. In larger applications they would be two separate containers. I would suggest not applying directly to your project from the syringe but onto a disposable piece of cardboard or similar. That way you can manually mix the liquids together (usually 1:1 ratio) to ensure an effective reaction. Then use an applicator (craft sticks) to apply to the project.

You are going to want to clamp this down with decent pressure. There would be the issue of seepage while setting you need to be aware of. Depending on how intricate your cuts are the solution will come out of the wood acrylic sandwich. You want to try and wipe that off *before* it sets. Epoxy resins dry really hard so if you have to cut part of it off it will no longer show clear on the cut. You can polish the edges once it cures with extra fine sand paper and / or a polishing compound.

---

A long term issue is that set epoxies can yellow over time because of UV radiation. That is likely a moot point as you are making a key chain.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Definitely mix before applying, and try to apply evenly as well.  
> **username_8**: I can vouch for the effectiveness of Araldite. It will easily bond acrylic to wood. It's nasty smelling stuff until it's fully cured though. Best used outdoors or with very good ventilation.  
> **username_8**: One potential drawback with Araldite. It typically sets very quickly. You'll have only a few minutes working time.  
> **username_2**: @username_8 Araldite is just one of the many 2 parts that exist. Most epoxies don't have long set times though so it is important to plan ahead.  
> **username_3**: @User1751825 you can buy araldite in "rapid" and "precision" (plenty of time to adjust the job) varieties. When using the latter I leave the piece supported for 24 hours in a warm room. I don't find them clear enough for this though.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2016-06-01. Score: 4

Look for clear epoxies, sometimes sold for encapsulating. They'll stick fairly well to both materials, though presumably not as well as epoxy sold as glue. You have a lot of contact area so the bond will be strong anyway. A two part epoxy should be quite cheap - if you can get an appropriate size pack, and I'd expect curing over a few hours though you might be able to get quicker.

To have it as clear as possible, you need to make sure that you apply enough to fill the gap and get all the air out.

I've bonded two sheets of clear plastic (one acrylic, one unknown) using ordinary glue epoxy (i.e. not meant to be transparent). That was good but not good enough for your needs. It was very slightly milky, and it cured before I had time to make a jig that would apply enough so I had a few bubbles.

It is possible to sand and even polish (with fine wet-or-dry paper) cured epoxy, so it could be used to seal the edges as well. This might be too much work though.


---

### Answer by username_1 on 2016-06-01. Score: 3

Instead of epoxy, an alternative is using peg mounts, similar to sword hilts/knives.

If you are worried about the epoxy yellowing, you can drill two holes and insert pegs to secure the acrylic to the wood. It would still be aesthetically pleasing to look at while securing the two pieces together.

Most craft stores sell pegs in all sizes. Or you can make you own pegs depending on how big you want the hole size to be. For something like a key chain, you could use a 1/16 drill bit and then insert pegs for a clean look.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: Would an adhesive still be needed to ensure the pegs don't work their way loose over time? (Much _less_ adhesive, obviously.)  
> **username_1**: Well that depends on the project at hand and the type of peg. Adhesive is usually used on wood pegs, but if you use metal, you should be fine as long as the hole you drill isnt bigger than the peg you are using. Most of the time the peg should fit just about right in a way that you need to use a robber mallet to tap it in. But a little adhesive never hurts. Better to be safe than sorry :D  

---

### Answer by username_5 on 2016-06-01. Score: 2

I have used West Systems wood epoxies with great results. They are strictly professional grade and have a huge range of products. Here is their clear product and it addresses the UV issue as well. (As I recall their system is a two-part epoxy with interchangeable Fillers and Hardeners.)

[West Systems 207 clear hardener](http://www.westsystem.com/ss/207-special-clear-hardener)

from the description:

> 105/207 has strong physical properties, so it can be used as a structural adhesive for gluing and laminating. It has excellent compatibility with paints and varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibitor in 207 helps provide a beautiful, long lasting finish when used with quality UV filtering varnish. 105/207 cures clear and colorless.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2020-08-01. Score: 0

I have both the 1:1 and 2:1 epoxies. One is glue and one is for crafts requiring clear pours. Another is a couple 4 oz containers. Last year I used about a gallon laminating pieces of acrylic with wood, then turning them on my lathe.

I also used some commercial grade cyanoacrylate glue (a.k.a. Super Glue).

In both instances, I scuffed the surfaces. For the epoxy, I used to 60 grit (increased from lighter grits used earlier and that had the same problem) because the epoxy fills gaps fine, compared to things like Gorilla glue.

The pieces I turned came out wonderfully, but the joints using the epoxies were nowhere near dependable, but that only showed with time. The cyanoacrylate did better.

Many of the finished pieces on which I used epoxy were stored in my garage and came apart in the high heat of summer. A few came apart when the finished item was dropped.

To be clear, I have not tried West systems, but I question whether the joint would do any better.

I am yet looking to other means of joining wood and acrylic, since the pieces I make will be used for things like walking sticks, so could see the high heat of a car on a got summer day.

> **Comments:**
> **username_7**: Welcome to Arts & Crafts.  It sounds like you have a lot of good experience, so I look forward to more of your contributions.  On this particular answer, it isn't clear what solution you're recommending (what answers are supposed to be).  There's a lot of good information, but it seems more like a progress report and you're still looking for a solution, yourself (so it's more in the nature of commentary).  If I'm missing it, can you edit the answer to make the solution clearer?  Thanks.  

---

