<p>Kneaded erasers are usually perfect for erasing charcoal.</p>
<p>However, when it comes to erasing charcoal, the success of kneaded erasers depends on a few factors:</p>
<ul>
<li><p><strong>The type of paper</strong><br />
I've experienced problems erasing charcoal from papers with very low to no grain (this includes the typical A4 printer paper, on which it is hard to draw with anything to begin with).<br />
Select proper paper when drawing with charcoal: a medium to heavy weight paper with a fine to coarse grain (the charcoal needs to be able to deposit particles within the structure, but the kneaded eraser equally needs to be able to pick it up from there). Anything smooth and flimsy is usually a subpar choice for charcoal.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>The quality of the charcoal</strong><br />
Cheaper charcoal tends to have an inconsistent structure. If you use charcoal that deposits particles of varying size or at times doesn't leave a trace at all, stop using it and buy other charcoal (if from a reputable brand you might want to ask your money back).<br />
These deficiencies are due to the quality of the burning process, and the type of wood and the part of the tree or plant used.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>The pressure applied when drawing with charcoal</strong><br />
When drawing with a piece of good quality charcoal on good quality paper, the lines produced should have a consistent hue. Get a feel for letting the charcoal stick glide over the paper, without consciously applying pressure. Depending on the technique and work method, only after the initial linework is done should pressure be applied to create different hues. Generally, the harder you push the charcoal, the harder it will be to remove.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>The condition of the eraser</strong><br />
Lastly, of course, there is the eraser itself. For the best results, use a clean or well-kneaded eraser. Kneaded erasers become saturated when used, and at some point it might be hard for them to pick up anything at all.<br />
I myself have not encountered <em>bad</em> kneaded erasers yet, but the quality could also differ between brands. There is a difference in how kneadable the one is in comparison to the other, but this is a matter of personal preference.</p>
</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-04T05:39:00.557Z
I mostly use the Faber castell eraser, It's supposed to be a good quality eraser, but I think the charcoal and paper aren't that great, can you recommend me what to buy?
Isaac750
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-04T08:35:15.000Z
It definitely should be, yes, Faber-Castell is a decent/good brand. I cannot really recommend specific brands of paper and charcoal, but I can suggest getting your supplies from any store specialized in art supplies. Furthermore, before you buy anything, I recommend checking reviews online (which is a good idea no matter what you buy: invest in high quality products, pay less in the long run, support good, ethical brands, produce less waste, &c. :).
Joachim
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-04T08:46:17.287Z
Additionally, concerning paper, be sure to read through [this answer](https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/478/6388) (it's a lot of information, but it's good to know what you're working with).
Joachim
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-07T15:49:13.163Z
And even with the proper materials you are unlikely to remove all traces of charcoal markings from a drawing. It is part of charcoal's (and pastels') charm.
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-03T19:14:53.310Z
2021-01-03T19:14:53.310Z
Joachim
<p>Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?<br />
I've been trying 3 different brands of kneaded erasers (Faber-Castell, Prismacolor, and an unknown brand) and nothing has happened.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-03T02:54:17.023Z
I have used several different erasers and they have worked with charcoal. Which erasers have you tried that aren't working for you?
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-03T03:58:48.403Z
Faber castell kneaded eraser, Prismacolor kneaded eraser and some weird brand that I don't know its name
Isaac750
<charcoal><erasers>
Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?
Isaac750
# Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-01-03)

Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?  
I've been trying 3 different brands of kneaded erasers (Faber-Castell, Prismacolor, and an unknown brand) and nothing has happened.

**Tags:** charcoal, erasers

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I have used several different erasers and they have worked with charcoal. Which erasers have you tried that aren't working for you?  
> **username_0**: Faber castell kneaded eraser, Prismacolor kneaded eraser and some weird brand that I don't know its name  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-01-03. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

Kneaded erasers are usually perfect for erasing charcoal.

However, when it comes to erasing charcoal, the success of kneaded erasers depends on a few factors:

* **The type of paper**  
  I've experienced problems erasing charcoal from papers with very low to no grain (this includes the typical A4 printer paper, on which it is hard to draw with anything to begin with).  
  Select proper paper when drawing with charcoal: a medium to heavy weight paper with a fine to coarse grain (the charcoal needs to be able to deposit particles within the structure, but the kneaded eraser equally needs to be able to pick it up from there). Anything smooth and flimsy is usually a subpar choice for charcoal.
* **The quality of the charcoal**  
  Cheaper charcoal tends to have an inconsistent structure. If you use charcoal that deposits particles of varying size or at times doesn't leave a trace at all, stop using it and buy other charcoal (if from a reputable brand you might want to ask your money back).  
  These deficiencies are due to the quality of the burning process, and the type of wood and the part of the tree or plant used.
* **The pressure applied when drawing with charcoal**  
  When drawing with a piece of good quality charcoal on good quality paper, the lines produced should have a consistent hue. Get a feel for letting the charcoal stick glide over the paper, without consciously applying pressure. Depending on the technique and work method, only after the initial linework is done should pressure be applied to create different hues. Generally, the harder you push the charcoal, the harder it will be to remove.
* **The condition of the eraser**  
  Lastly, of course, there is the eraser itself. For the best results, use a clean or well-kneaded eraser. Kneaded erasers become saturated when used, and at some point it might be hard for them to pick up anything at all.  
  I myself have not encountered *bad* kneaded erasers yet, but the quality could also differ between brands. There is a difference in how kneadable the one is in comparison to the other, but this is a matter of personal preference.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I mostly use the Faber castell eraser, It's supposed to be a good quality eraser, but I think the charcoal and paper aren't that great, can you recommend me what to buy?  
> **username_2**: It definitely should be, yes, Faber-Castell is a decent/good brand. I cannot really recommend specific brands of paper and charcoal, but I can suggest getting your supplies from any store specialized in art supplies. Furthermore, before you buy anything, I recommend checking reviews online (which is a good idea no matter what you buy: invest in high quality products, pay less in the long run, support good, ethical brands, produce less waste, &c. :).  
> **username_2**: Additionally, concerning paper, be sure to read through [this answer](https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/478/6388) (it's a lot of information, but it's good to know what you're working with).  
> **username_3**: And even with the proper materials you are unlikely to remove all traces of charcoal markings from a drawing. It is part of charcoal's (and pastels') charm.  

---

