<p>I use <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000YQDX86" rel="nofollow">G-S Hypo Cement</a> which works excellent it is somewhat expensive. E-6000 is also a good choice.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-11T19:56:37.803Z
G-S Hypo Cement is designed for non-porous surfaces.  It will soak into wood and starve the contact area.  If you use it on wood, apply some to the wood first so it soaks in and seals the wood.  Then glue the parts together with more.
fixer1234
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-08-04T11:31:57.190Z
2016-08-04T11:31:57.190Z
davidcondrey
<p>Epoxy is the best choice. Remember surface preperation is more important than the bonding agent. </p>

<p>Wood, use good tac rag, but use 120 grit red garnet paper for a rough up, some wood fibers for the epoxy to grab. The wook should also be "dry" under 12% moisture contentant. </p>

<p>Metal, scuff also, no less than 120 grit Silicon Carbide (black) sand paper. Then use a no byproducts cleaner. Acitone use with appropriate safety steps.</p>

<p>Roll the adheared products, probably from the wood side, to remove as many bubbles as possible.  You could use a vacuum chamber to remove all epoxy bubbles after mixing. </p>

<p>This set of steps should give you the best adhearance between dis-simular items, as you describe.  </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-03T00:33:49.683Z
2019-04-03T00:33:49.683Z
Joel Huebner
<p>Epoxy is certainly a good default for wood to metal joints, it also has the advantage in this application that it can be used to fill small gaps between the inlay an the surround and can be coloured or filled (eg with sawdust from the same wood or metal powder) to further disguise the join. </p>

<p>One downside of fluid adhesive is that it is quite difficult to completely eliminate excess glue 'escaping'. How much of a problem this is depends on the exact situation, obviously it is more of an issue where you can't do the final finishing with the wood in place. </p>

<p>One potential alternative is double sided tape, this is fairly commonly used for inlays and veneers and has the advantage of being very clean and convenient to use and can be cut to the exact shape required.  You can get specific marquetry/veneer tape and there are also a variety of general purpose industrial tapes which should do the job. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-08-05T10:26:15.207Z
2016-08-05T10:26:15.207Z
Chris Johns
<p>elmers glue is the a life saver you have to wait but it will do the job</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-07-05T01:02:09.440Z
"Elmers Glue" is a commonly used term for their wood glue product. Unless the suggestion is for a specialized product made by the Elmer's Glue company, such a wood glue would not bond well to a metal surface. Such glue types require porosity for both surfaces.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-07-05T01:16:25.637Z
In general, Elmer's white glue that we all know and love is not a good choice for gluing metal.  However Elmer's Pro-Bond (an entirely different animal) will do the job without the need for mixing components required by epoxy.
Ast Pace
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-07-05T16:24:39.350Z
Welcome, Kitty! Please consider taking our [tour] and learning about how this site works. In general, one-sentence answers aren't very helpful. We generally need you to support your answer with an explanation. Please keep this in mind and consider editing this answer to improve it.
Catija
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-07-04T23:54:15.813Z
2017-07-04T23:54:15.813Z
Kitty Wells
<p>Super glue is cheap, easy to find, and bonds together just about anything.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-06T01:12:06.167Z
Super glue is able to bond with wood, plastic, and metal.
john doe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-03T03:47:24.653Z
2019-04-03T03:47:24.653Z
john doe
<p>2-part epoxy is my usual recommendation when it comes to mating different kinds of materials together. That is usually one of the selling points. </p>

<p>I would caution with the use of Gorilla Glue for this. While is might be a viable choice you need to be careful of its expansion properties. If you do try to use it make sure you clamp appropriately and clean any excess that seeps out. That is general advice for gluing in general but you really don't want warping in the final product here. </p>

<p>Depending on the size of the veneer and how it is prepared there is a chance for small pockets to exist where the glue could expand. As long as you clamp firmly for the duration of the setting time you should be fine though. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-31T03:58:40.117Z
Great description, but I thought it might help to explain the term 'expansion properties' -- as these took me by surprise when I used it the first time.

Gorilla Glue expands about two/three times original volume and then sets as a tough, slightly-aerated solid. Great glue, but the overrun is messy and hard to remove. (I tried limiting overrun (unsuccessfully) by using masking tape over what I did not want the glue to cover.)
Stefan
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-06-06T19:19:46.877Z
2016-06-06T19:19:46.877Z
Matt
<p>As per <a href="https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1704/358">this question</a> I'm needing to glue a wood veneer inlay into a metal bracelet, but don't know what type of glue to use.</p>

<p>I have a tube of Gorilla Glue, which I know is suitable for wood - should I source something else that can cope with wood and metal?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-08-04T13:26:39.533Z
In general, when looking for advice on gluing this, I recommend http://www.ThisToThat.com/  .  In this case, they recommend LePage's Metal Epoxy or JB Weld if small surface area.  (various contact cements for larger stuff).
Joe
<adhesives><wood><metal><marquetry>
What type of glue will work well on wood and metal?
Rory Alsop
# What type of glue will work well on wood and metal?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-06-06)

As per [this question](https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1704/358) I'm needing to glue a wood veneer inlay into a metal bracelet, but don't know what type of glue to use.

I have a tube of Gorilla Glue, which I know is suitable for wood - should I source something else that can cope with wood and metal?

**Tags:** adhesives, wood, metal, marquetry

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: In general, when looking for advice on gluing this, I recommend http://www.ThisToThat.com/  .  In this case, they recommend LePage's Metal Epoxy or JB Weld if small surface area.  (various contact cements for larger stuff).  

---

## 6 answers

### Answer by username_11 on 2016-06-06. Score: 8 | Accepted answer

2-part epoxy is my usual recommendation when it comes to mating different kinds of materials together. That is usually one of the selling points.

I would caution with the use of Gorilla Glue for this. While is might be a viable choice you need to be careful of its expansion properties. If you do try to use it make sure you clamp appropriately and clean any excess that seeps out. That is general advice for gluing in general but you really don't want warping in the final product here.

Depending on the size of the veneer and how it is prepared there is a chance for small pockets to exist where the glue could expand. As long as you clamp firmly for the duration of the setting time you should be fine though.

> **Comments:**
> **username_12**: Great description, but I thought it might help to explain the term 'expansion properties' -- as these took me by surprise when I used it the first time.  Gorilla Glue expands about two/three times original volume and then sets as a tough, slightly-aerated solid. Great glue, but the overrun is messy and hard to remove. (I tried limiting overrun (unsuccessfully) by using masking tape over what I did not want the glue to cover.)  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2016-08-04. Score: 3

I use [G-S Hypo Cement](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000YQDX86) which works excellent it is somewhat expensive. E-6000 is also a good choice.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: G-S Hypo Cement is designed for non-porous surfaces.  It will soak into wood and starve the contact area.  If you use it on wood, apply some to the wood first so it soaks in and seals the wood.  Then glue the parts together with more.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-04-03. Score: 1

Epoxy is the best choice. Remember surface preperation is more important than the bonding agent.

Wood, use good tac rag, but use 120 grit red garnet paper for a rough up, some wood fibers for the epoxy to grab. The wook should also be "dry" under 12% moisture contentant.

Metal, scuff also, no less than 120 grit Silicon Carbide (black) sand paper. Then use a no byproducts cleaner. Acitone use with appropriate safety steps.

Roll the adheared products, probably from the wood side, to remove as many bubbles as possible. You could use a vacuum chamber to remove all epoxy bubbles after mixing.

This set of steps should give you the best adhearance between dis-simular items, as you describe.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2016-08-05. Score: 1

Epoxy is certainly a good default for wood to metal joints, it also has the advantage in this application that it can be used to fill small gaps between the inlay an the surround and can be coloured or filled (eg with sawdust from the same wood or metal powder) to further disguise the join.

One downside of fluid adhesive is that it is quite difficult to completely eliminate excess glue 'escaping'. How much of a problem this is depends on the exact situation, obviously it is more of an issue where you can't do the final finishing with the wood in place.

One potential alternative is double sided tape, this is fairly commonly used for inlays and veneers and has the advantage of being very clean and convenient to use and can be cut to the exact shape required. You can get specific marquetry/veneer tape and there are also a variety of general purpose industrial tapes which should do the job.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2017-07-04. Score: -2

elmers glue is the a life saver you have to wait but it will do the job

> **Comments:**
> **username_7**: "Elmers Glue" is a commonly used term for their wood glue product. Unless the suggestion is for a specialized product made by the Elmer's Glue company, such a wood glue would not bond well to a metal surface. Such glue types require porosity for both surfaces.  
> **username_8**: In general, Elmer's white glue that we all know and love is not a good choice for gluing metal.  However Elmer's Pro-Bond (an entirely different animal) will do the job without the need for mixing components required by epoxy.  
> **username_9**: Welcome, Kitty! Please consider taking our [tour] and learning about how this site works. In general, one-sentence answers aren't very helpful. We generally need you to support your answer with an explanation. Please keep this in mind and consider editing this answer to improve it.  

---

### Answer by username_10 on 2019-04-03. Score: -3

Super glue is cheap, easy to find, and bonds together just about anything.

> **Comments:**
> **username_10**: Super glue is able to bond with wood, plastic, and metal.  

---

