<p>I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 2" PVC will not handle the stress that a working slingshot goes through. The best fix for what you have would be under the comment Aloysius D mentioned about joining the top to the bottom with 45 degree braces. I think it would still want to roll backwards on you on the draw to use it. That's when it will fail at the joints where the vertical meets the base. The joint will be in tension as compared to rolling out of the tee connectors when there are no braces.</p>

<p>A good old fashioned tree limb in the shape you need bolted to a base and braced might be better, at least cheaper than one made of 2" threaded metal pipe.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:30:54.180Z
I still think I can avoid the 45's. I will update the post with my new plan
gooddadmike
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:06:53.413Z
2016-07-10T03:06:53.413Z
Jack
<p>You don't necessarily need 45 degree pipe -- you might be able to reinforce it enough with guy wires.</p>

<p>It would be better if the base were an 'H' shape, so that you could go from each corner of the base up to where the rubber tubing would be attached.  What what you have currently, you might still be able to get away attaching two from each upright to the bottom of the 'Y' base, and one each to the top.  Because of how the guy lines would obstruct, you'd likely have to have the top of the Y be towards that target.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-11T00:23:20.940Z
2016-07-11T00:23:20.940Z
Joe
<p>I have an Angry Birds birthday party and the honor fell to me to create the giant slingshot.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LJCXV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LJCXV.jpg" alt="here it is after paint"></a></p>

<p>Here are some <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ztcaghgk2clkl0x/AAASCwVvGT2cRVvzUJpOjph7a" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more pictures</a> for your pleasure or entertainment (because I may, in fact, be an idiot). </p>

<p>So I have some sections coming from the back to stabilize it and a piece off the front. I think those are fine. But I pulled back on it a little and the vertical piece came unglued from both the bottom and the top "T" sections. </p>

<p>Now I have lost confidence in the 90 degree elbows as well. </p>

<p>How should I fasten this?</p>

<p>I immediately think of drilling and bolting it but I'm concerned about cracking the pipe. Then I read about a better adhesive I could try called <a href="https://amzn.com/B000XZTD14" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E 6000</a>. </p>

<p>Also the adhesive site thistothat.com <a href="http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&amp;this=Plastic&amp;that=Plastic" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mentions</a> a thing called LePage's 5 Minute Epoxy. Anybody have experience with that?</p>

<p>I need major help! What should I do? Any advice appreciated. </p>

<p><strong>Also:</strong> ability to hold water is not of interest to me, obviously (I hope).</p>

<hr>

<h1>Modified Plan</h1>

<p>I will be removing and re-gluing/replacing some of these with primer and repainting but here is the big idea:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/TBqyo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/TBqyo.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>I swap these pieces. I make the opening pointing down. Then I drive <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-5-in-x-1-5-in-x-6-ft-Heavy-Duty-Steel-Green-Painted-Fence-T-Post-901176EB/204331916" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these stakes</a> in the ground and position the slingshot so that the stakes poke up there into these holes. At least 2' of stake will go up the arms. This should be enough to reinforce while still keeping the look.</p>

<hr>

<h1>How it happened</h1>

<p>Key lesson learned: Leave time for testing. So my goal was to launch lightweight playground balls from the slingshot into boxes, using a colander as the thing to hold the balls and BigBands (like the kind used to secure the can  liner in a garbage can) for the power.</p>

<p>So because the launcher was being used in an already muddy area the homeowner (mother-in-law) did not want the stakes. So Me and another family member braced against the post. The glue may have held but the creaking sounds that the pipes gave, made me uneasy about the pipes surviving the tension. I will test with the stakes in my own yard.</p>

<p>Another problem was the colander with drawer handle was cracked and didn't survive the first three launches. The back up colander was a close fit to the balls so that when pulled on it "ovaled" enough to keep the balls from launching. </p>

<p>The thing was a success in the end because we added a hand towel over the top of the colander, which made the pocket more shallow. It was harder to keep the balls from rolling out but it worked! </p>

<p>Also instead of piggies we used real children to bring down the boxes on. It was their idea and all the boxes were empty. So no tears there.</p>

<p>I am marking the first answer as correct because, well it was true. And thank you for all your suggestions. If I had it to do over again I would start with something that looked more like a soccer goal launching the balls up and through the area where the ball would be kicked in soccer. It wouldn't look as "Angry Birdy" but when you can't anchor your base into the ground it's a better approach. Also it could be used indoors for church events ect. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T00:15:39.427Z
Hey Mike. What adhesive did you actually use and how long did you let it set before you started working. Also where abouts are you located? Things like temperature and humidity would be a factor. Depending on what you say my tentative answer is something like PL Premium. That stuff is awesome and in some cases construction grade. Are you able to remove what you have already done then? I think you need something thicker as it sounds like your joints are not touching completely and there is gaps leading to a weak glue joint.
Matt
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T00:22:53.627Z
Oateys pvc cement. Glue set for 7 hours. It was in my garage overnight around room temp. I'm headed into the hardware store now. I'll ask about it.
gooddadmike
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:07:28.333Z
Went back to lowes and got "the smart guy" this time. He says if I had primed before using the PVC cement the bond would be strong. Strong enough that the plastic would break before the cement gave out. So now I have primer.
gooddadmike
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:09:58.053Z
If you did not use primer at first you may have a better chance at it working, but I would not hold my breath.
Jack
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:36:35.210Z
What do you think @Jack ? Will the new plan suceed?
gooddadmike
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:43:53.403Z
I believe with out the braces the hubs of the tees will blow out. I would love it if I was wrong. I hope it will work for you. I know the kids will love it if you can pull it off
Jack
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-07-10T03:51:09.747Z
At this point using the fence post, I think if every piece of plastic shatters, I could attach my launcher to the fence posts and carry on. Lol.I promise to report back.
gooddadmike
<adhesives><pvc><props>
Giant slingshot made from 2" PVC. Cement insufficient. How to fasten for load?
gooddadmike
# Giant slingshot made from 2" PVC. Cement insufficient. How to fasten for load?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-07-09)

I have an Angry Birds birthday party and the honor fell to me to create the giant slingshot.

[![here it is after paint](https://i.sstatic.net/LJCXV.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/LJCXV.jpg)

Here are some [more pictures](https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ztcaghgk2clkl0x/AAASCwVvGT2cRVvzUJpOjph7a) for your pleasure or entertainment (because I may, in fact, be an idiot).

So I have some sections coming from the back to stabilize it and a piece off the front. I think those are fine. But I pulled back on it a little and the vertical piece came unglued from both the bottom and the top "T" sections.

Now I have lost confidence in the 90 degree elbows as well.

How should I fasten this?

I immediately think of drilling and bolting it but I'm concerned about cracking the pipe. Then I read about a better adhesive I could try called [E 6000](https://amzn.com/B000XZTD14).

Also the adhesive site thistothat.com [mentions](http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Plastic&that=Plastic) a thing called LePage's 5 Minute Epoxy. Anybody have experience with that?

I need major help! What should I do? Any advice appreciated.

**Also:** ability to hold water is not of interest to me, obviously (I hope).

---

# Modified Plan

I will be removing and re-gluing/replacing some of these with primer and repainting but here is the big idea:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/TBqyo.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/TBqyo.jpg)

I swap these pieces. I make the opening pointing down. Then I drive [these stakes](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-5-in-x-1-5-in-x-6-ft-Heavy-Duty-Steel-Green-Painted-Fence-T-Post-901176EB/204331916) in the ground and position the slingshot so that the stakes poke up there into these holes. At least 2' of stake will go up the arms. This should be enough to reinforce while still keeping the look.

---

# How it happened

Key lesson learned: Leave time for testing. So my goal was to launch lightweight playground balls from the slingshot into boxes, using a colander as the thing to hold the balls and BigBands (like the kind used to secure the can liner in a garbage can) for the power.

So because the launcher was being used in an already muddy area the homeowner (mother-in-law) did not want the stakes. So Me and another family member braced against the post. The glue may have held but the creaking sounds that the pipes gave, made me uneasy about the pipes surviving the tension. I will test with the stakes in my own yard.

Another problem was the colander with drawer handle was cracked and didn't survive the first three launches. The back up colander was a close fit to the balls so that when pulled on it "ovaled" enough to keep the balls from launching.

The thing was a success in the end because we added a hand towel over the top of the colander, which made the pocket more shallow. It was harder to keep the balls from rolling out but it worked!

Also instead of piggies we used real children to bring down the boxes on. It was their idea and all the boxes were empty. So no tears there.

I am marking the first answer as correct because, well it was true. And thank you for all your suggestions. If I had it to do over again I would start with something that looked more like a soccer goal launching the balls up and through the area where the ball would be kicked in soccer. It wouldn't look as "Angry Birdy" but when you can't anchor your base into the ground it's a better approach. Also it could be used indoors for church events ect.

**Tags:** adhesives, pvc, props

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hey Mike. What adhesive did you actually use and how long did you let it set before you started working. Also where abouts are you located? Things like temperature and humidity would be a factor. Depending on what you say my tentative answer is something like PL Premium. That stuff is awesome and in some cases construction grade. Are you able to remove what you have already done then? I think you need something thicker as it sounds like your joints are not touching completely and there is gaps leading to a weak glue joint.  
> **username_0**: Oateys pvc cement. Glue set for 7 hours. It was in my garage overnight around room temp. I'm headed into the hardware store now. I'll ask about it.  
> **username_0**: Went back to lowes and got "the smart guy" this time. He says if I had primed before using the PVC cement the bond would be strong. Strong enough that the plastic would break before the cement gave out. So now I have primer.  
> **username_2**: If you did not use primer at first you may have a better chance at it working, but I would not hold my breath.  
> **username_0**: What do you think @username_2 ? Will the new plan suceed?  
> **username_2**: I believe with out the braces the hubs of the tees will blow out. I would love it if I was wrong. I hope it will work for you. I know the kids will love it if you can pull it off  
> **username_0**: At this point using the fence post, I think if every piece of plastic shatters, I could attach my launcher to the fence posts and carry on. Lol.I promise to report back.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2016-07-10. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 2" PVC will not handle the stress that a working slingshot goes through. The best fix for what you have would be under the comment Aloysius D mentioned about joining the top to the bottom with 45 degree braces. I think it would still want to roll backwards on you on the draw to use it. That's when it will fail at the joints where the vertical meets the base. The joint will be in tension as compared to rolling out of the tee connectors when there are no braces.

A good old fashioned tree limb in the shape you need bolted to a base and braced might be better, at least cheaper than one made of 2" threaded metal pipe.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I still think I can avoid the 45's. I will update the post with my new plan  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2016-07-11. Score: 1

You don't necessarily need 45 degree pipe -- you might be able to reinforce it enough with guy wires.

It would be better if the base were an 'H' shape, so that you could go from each corner of the base up to where the rubber tubing would be attached. What what you have currently, you might still be able to get away attaching two from each upright to the bottom of the 'Y' base, and one each to the top. Because of how the guy lines would obstruct, you'd likely have to have the top of the Y be towards that target.


---

