<p>Superwash single is a somewhat tough one, yes.</p>

<p>In those case, I usually start ten or so stitches before I change the yarn, I use the same technique as when doing jacquard to have the new yarn follow in the back of the work, I knit one stitch with both yarns, and knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten stitches.
On the next row, I try to have the loose yarn follow on the back, so that it holds more.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-16T21:59:19.970Z
I think I understand what you meant by "knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten stitches."  Could you please provide a step-by-step instruction for this?  Also please include links to your research.   These steps would make for a more specific answer.  As for your last sentence, "On the next row, I try to have the loose yarn follow on the back, so that it holds more", I cannot picture what you are doing.  So please include specific steps for this as well.  Thanks, I am very intrigued to learn your method!
Laurent R.
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-04-26T22:49:05.173Z
2016-04-26T22:49:05.173Z
mat
<p>This is the dilemma for joining in a new ball of yarn, how to do it in the most invisible way possible. There aren't any good options (that I know of) for avoiding tails while leaving the work unaffected, so you will probably have to settle for the tail options but for something like the superwash singles yarn you mentioned with fine lace, then I don't know at all because I've never knitted with that yarn in lace before.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-28T02:13:25.220Z
2023-04-28T02:13:25.220Z
Ryan Christiansen
<p>I know of several methods of joining a new ball of yarn, but I have trouble with some long-repeat colored yarns available as singles, be it thin ones like Amitola or even thick ones like Schoppel Reggae. </p>

<ul>
<li>Knots show up, especially in lace or reversible knits. </li>
<li>Russian, braided, etc. joins require at least two strands of yarn. </li>
<li>"Spit and rub" is the traditional method for lace, but only works with feltable yarns. </li>
<li>taking the two ends together has never worked well for me. The ends slide against each other, creating too small an overlap, and the overlap knits up really thick and noticeable. </li>
<li>leaving a tail and weaving in the ends works somewhat, but the stitches around the change become very loose, and the weaved ends are visible in some kinds of knitting (lace, rib). </li>
</ul>

<p>Is there something I am missing? How can I join the yarn invisibly?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-05-02T14:08:09.897Z
@LuciaBentivoglio A "superwash" yarn is yarn that has been treated to be machine washable. A "single" yarn is a yarn that is made of a single strand of yarn, as oposed to multi-pli yarn that is made of multiple strand of yarns that are twisted together.
mat
<knitting><yarn>
How to invisibly join superwash singles yarn?
rumtscho
# How to invisibly join superwash singles yarn?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-04-26)

I know of several methods of joining a new ball of yarn, but I have trouble with some long-repeat colored yarns available as singles, be it thin ones like Amitola or even thick ones like Schoppel Reggae.

* Knots show up, especially in lace or reversible knits.
* Russian, braided, etc. joins require at least two strands of yarn.
* "Spit and rub" is the traditional method for lace, but only works with feltable yarns.
* taking the two ends together has never worked well for me. The ends slide against each other, creating too small an overlap, and the overlap knits up really thick and noticeable.
* leaving a tail and weaving in the ends works somewhat, but the stitches around the change become very loose, and the weaved ends are visible in some kinds of knitting (lace, rib).

Is there something I am missing? How can I join the yarn invisibly?

**Tags:** knitting, yarn

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: @LuciaBentivoglio A "superwash" yarn is yarn that has been treated to be machine washable. A "single" yarn is a yarn that is made of a single strand of yarn, as oposed to multi-pli yarn that is made of multiple strand of yarns that are twisted together.  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2016-04-26. Score: 5

Superwash single is a somewhat tough one, yes.

In those case, I usually start ten or so stitches before I change the yarn, I use the same technique as when doing jacquard to have the new yarn follow in the back of the work, I knit one stitch with both yarns, and knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten stitches.
On the next row, I try to have the loose yarn follow on the back, so that it holds more.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: I think I understand what you meant by "knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten stitches."  Could you please provide a step-by-step instruction for this?  Also please include links to your research.   These steps would make for a more specific answer.  As for your last sentence, "On the next row, I try to have the loose yarn follow on the back, so that it holds more", I cannot picture what you are doing.  So please include specific steps for this as well.  Thanks, I am very intrigued to learn your method!  

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### Answer by username_3 on 2023-04-28. Score: 0

This is the dilemma for joining in a new ball of yarn, how to do it in the most invisible way possible. There aren't any good options (that I know of) for avoiding tails while leaving the work unaffected, so you will probably have to settle for the tail options but for something like the superwash singles yarn you mentioned with fine lace, then I don't know at all because I've never knitted with that yarn in lace before.


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