<p>If you don't object to a transparent substance in the bottom of the basin, you can use acrylic casting resin, aiming for a product which specifically advertises itself as clear, as some of the available casting resins are not.</p>

<p>Mixing the product per directions and pouring it into the basin with a bowl under the drain will allow you to place the exact amount, while the excess runs into the bowl. Ensure that the basin is perfectly level prior to the pour for what I hope is an obvious reason.</p>

<p>It's typical to subject casting resin to a pressure pot to remove bubbles, but that's not necessarily practical in this situation. A heat gun (preferred) or hair dryer will help to clear bubbles.</p>

<p>As a possible bonus, you can mix a small amount of glitter or similar decoration if you wish to add a different touch, although that's not consistent with the flower motif currently in place.</p>

<p>This may not be suited if you intend to use abrasive cleansers on the surface, but they can be polished out with appropriate abrasives and plenty of labor.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T14:42:42.673Z
I think you can actually use specific (water-based) dyes to colour the clear resin, and make it look similar to the rest of the sink.
Joachim
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T17:33:52.377Z
This is a great idea for a solution. I'm curious how I would get the casting resin to be curved near the outside where it meets the ceramic. Perhaps if I wait until it is partially solidified and then tilt the bowl around and let it run up the sides slightly?
fudge
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T18:25:06.653Z
@fudge I have no experience with acrylic resin specifically, but I would expect any partially cured resin to react badly to this - it could create a bad surface and inferior strength. Plus, if it's already partially cured it probably won't flow in the way you hope. Nothing keeps you from trying it out though, with something disposable like a plastic yoghurt cup or something.
Nobody
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T18:29:51.360Z
@fudge If you have a way to spin the whole wash basin the whole time the resin is curing, then you could have it go up the sides. But if it stops spinning (or doesn't keep a constant rate) during the curing process, the whole thing would be ruined. It would still only be piecewise continuous, doing one spinning resin pour and a second non-spinning.
Nobody
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T19:07:40.897Z
I'd have some concerns about the seal/join between the resin and the basin's side.  But as it stands this one is junk, so excellent idea.
Criggie
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T23:06:41.130Z
The spinning idea at a constant rate is a good idea. I'm picturing an inexpensive record player, as they are engineered for careful speed control. Inexpensive, because it could be damaged by resin. An easy test with water would provide for good preparation. It's possible the spin will work with helping the bubbles exit.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T23:13:18.450Z
Would it be plausible to plug the hole, fill it *slightly more* with resin, and then grinding/polishing the resin so that the middle is lower and water flows appropriately? Or would grinding transparent resin 'matte' it?
Peteris
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T23:16:36.287Z
@Peteris One can polish clear resin to a transparent shine with enough elbow grease. If the bowl could be mounted in a lathe, the effort would be easier as well. Your idea is sound, as one would need only the smallest gradient to provide the necessary flow.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-19T16:49:08.427Z
This seems like a good idea but is it executable? Not likely. You will definitely have a problem with getting the resin to bond well and evenly to the non-porous porcelain surface.  Spinning the bowl to get a gradient seems like a long shot. The speed required would send all the epoxy flying out of the bowl or would compromise the curing process (by always moving the materials.) The only way I would see this working is if you cast a properly shaped bowl separately and covered the existing one entirely with it.
rebusB
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-19T18:04:52.387Z
@rebusB, epoxy bonds well to non-porous surfaces, especially when properly prepared. In this case, some light sanding should allow for a good bond. Epoxy will also cure while moving, as there are rotisserie style drying rigs for applying epoxy coatings while avoiding pooling. One can accomplish the goal without spinning, using Peteris' suggestion.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-09T01:28:15.027Z
2020-02-09T01:28:15.027Z
fred_dot_u
<p>There is nothing you can do, except to put in another drain.  You cannot tilt that bowl in any direction that will but the hole you have at the bottom, so there is no way to avoid the standing water without having an additional outlet.</p>

<p>Plugging the center hole will probably (as you suggest) result in something that does not look very good (unless you can perfectly match the color on the ceramic), so I think your best option is to introduce a smaller additional drain hole somewhere along the bottom of the trough.  If you want it to be unobtrusive, the best place to put an addition hole is toward the front of the vessel (the side farthest from the tap), since a user will generally spend to most time looking toward the back side of the bowl, underneath the tap.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, if you want to be able to fill up the sink, you will need to have plugs for both holes.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-08T23:13:49.963Z
2020-02-08T23:13:49.963Z
Buzz
<p>You could make another little flat hole on just one side of the round plate and have a little plumb to converge from there in the main central plumbing, so as the main hole will got the direct water and the new small one just the remaining.</p>

<p>Obviously you'll need a little of inclination to get the water stream to the right direction.</p>

<p>Just an idea.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-10T14:59:06.343Z
2020-02-10T14:59:06.343Z
Jackie Degl'Innocenti
<p>If you have a shop press that's rated for at least a few tons, you can try reshaping the bottom of the bowl so that it is concave, instead of convex, from how it is right now. To do this right, you'll probably need to heat up the bowl so that it's easier to work with, but the heat from a torch might damage the paint. Even a heat gun might damage the paint, and bending the bowl into a different shape could also destroy the paint.</p>

<p>Then again, I'm going to have to assume you put the ring depression around the hole and that didn't damage the paint, so you might be good to go. Also, if you put in that ring, you probably have the size of shop press to make this happen.</p>

<p>What you'll do is to find or make another heavy bowl or depression for this to sit in while you apply pressure from the top. You might want to use a large piece of rubber or a sandbag with a piece of steel on top to apply even pressure across the dome. The idea is to get the dome to pop out under the bowl or to press it into a different shape with a depression, instead of the raised bit you have. If it's only a 3-5mm, this shouldn't be too difficult, but if the dome does do a "tin can" kind of popping out the bottom, you might have all the pressure of your press released all at once, so strapping the bowl and other press items down would be a good idea.</p>

<p>To be honest, I haven't done anything like this myself, so I'd check to see if there are any tutorials or videos that might have a better way to make this attempt.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-12T00:43:36.250Z
Is this something you can do with a ceramic bowl? Sounds kind of intense. There is a ring around the bottom of the bowl that it sits on so i would worry that would interfere. Also, I drilled the original hole with a diamond hole saw and touched it up with a countersink.
fudge
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-12T00:48:19.393Z
@fudge, I thought it was a metal bowl. This could destroy a ceramic bowl. Your best bet is to use the epoxy that fred_dot_u suggested. If he hadn't already answered that, I would have.
computercarguy
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-11T23:46:12.807Z
2020-02-11T23:46:12.807Z
computercarguy
<p>First off I screwed up where I drilled the hole for the drain. The middle of the bowl is actually raised so the water pools in a circle around the drain: </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/VVsP5.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/VVsP5.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/HeLVK.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/HeLVK.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>I'm curious what my options are now... Is there any way I can salvage this? There's about 3-4mm of standing water in a ring around the bowl.</p>

<p>Could I put another smaller drain in back of the bowl? I'm wondering if I could even plug the hole I drilled and not have it look awful.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-02-10T02:21:40.433Z
Would you contemplate filling the bad hole with some kind of under-water LED light and fresnel?  Rather than trying to blend a plug back in place, a suitably-coloured under-light might be neat, specially if the basin is mounted in front of a mirror.
Criggie
<tool-selection><sculpting><ceramics>
Trying to turn a vintage wash basin into a vessel sink. How can I get rid of this standing water?
fudge
# Trying to turn a vintage wash basin into a vessel sink. How can I get rid of this standing water?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-02-08)

First off I screwed up where I drilled the hole for the drain. The middle of the bowl is actually raised so the water pools in a circle around the drain:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/VVsP5.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/VVsP5.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/HeLVK.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/HeLVK.jpg)

I'm curious what my options are now... Is there any way I can salvage this? There's about 3-4mm of standing water in a ring around the bowl.

Could I put another smaller drain in back of the bowl? I'm wondering if I could even plug the hole I drilled and not have it look awful.

**Tags:** tool-selection, sculpting, ceramics

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Would you contemplate filling the bad hole with some kind of under-water LED light and fresnel?  Rather than trying to blend a plug back in place, a suitably-coloured under-light might be neat, specially if the basin is mounted in front of a mirror.  

---

## 4 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2020-02-09. Score: 19

If you don't object to a transparent substance in the bottom of the basin, you can use acrylic casting resin, aiming for a product which specifically advertises itself as clear, as some of the available casting resins are not.

Mixing the product per directions and pouring it into the basin with a bowl under the drain will allow you to place the exact amount, while the excess runs into the bowl. Ensure that the basin is perfectly level prior to the pour for what I hope is an obvious reason.

It's typical to subject casting resin to a pressure pot to remove bubbles, but that's not necessarily practical in this situation. A heat gun (preferred) or hair dryer will help to clear bubbles.

As a possible bonus, you can mix a small amount of glitter or similar decoration if you wish to add a different touch, although that's not consistent with the flower motif currently in place.

This may not be suited if you intend to use abrasive cleansers on the surface, but they can be polished out with appropriate abrasives and plenty of labor.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: I think you can actually use specific (water-based) dyes to colour the clear resin, and make it look similar to the rest of the sink.  
> **username_0**: This is a great idea for a solution. I'm curious how I would get the casting resin to be curved near the outside where it meets the ceramic. Perhaps if I wait until it is partially solidified and then tilt the bowl around and let it run up the sides slightly?  
> **username_4**: @username_0 I have no experience with acrylic resin specifically, but I would expect any partially cured resin to react badly to this - it could create a bad surface and inferior strength. Plus, if it's already partially cured it probably won't flow in the way you hope. Nothing keeps you from trying it out though, with something disposable like a plastic yoghurt cup or something.  
> **username_4**: @username_0 If you have a way to spin the whole wash basin the whole time the resin is curing, then you could have it go up the sides. But if it stops spinning (or doesn't keep a constant rate) during the curing process, the whole thing would be ruined. It would still only be piecewise continuous, doing one spinning resin pour and a second non-spinning.  
> **username_1**: I'd have some concerns about the seal/join between the resin and the basin's side.  But as it stands this one is junk, so excellent idea.  
> **username_2**: The spinning idea at a constant rate is a good idea. I'm picturing an inexpensive record player, as they are engineered for careful speed control. Inexpensive, because it could be damaged by resin. An easy test with water would provide for good preparation. It's possible the spin will work with helping the bubbles exit.  
> **username_5**: Would it be plausible to plug the hole, fill it *slightly more* with resin, and then grinding/polishing the resin so that the middle is lower and water flows appropriately? Or would grinding transparent resin 'matte' it?  
> **username_2**: @username_5 One can polish clear resin to a transparent shine with enough elbow grease. If the bowl could be mounted in a lathe, the effort would be easier as well. Your idea is sound, as one would need only the smallest gradient to provide the necessary flow.  
> **username_6**: This seems like a good idea but is it executable? Not likely. You will definitely have a problem with getting the resin to bond well and evenly to the non-porous porcelain surface.  Spinning the bowl to get a gradient seems like a long shot. The speed required would send all the epoxy flying out of the bowl or would compromise the curing process (by always moving the materials.) The only way I would see this working is if you cast a properly shaped bowl separately and covered the existing one entirely with it.  
> **username_2**: @username_6, epoxy bonds well to non-porous surfaces, especially when properly prepared. In this case, some light sanding should allow for a good bond. Epoxy will also cure while moving, as there are rotisserie style drying rigs for applying epoxy coatings while avoiding pooling. One can accomplish the goal without spinning, using username_5' suggestion.  

---

### Answer by username_7 on 2020-02-08. Score: 4

There is nothing you can do, except to put in another drain. You cannot tilt that bowl in any direction that will but the hole you have at the bottom, so there is no way to avoid the standing water without having an additional outlet.

Plugging the center hole will probably (as you suggest) result in something that does not look very good (unless you can perfectly match the color on the ceramic), so I think your best option is to introduce a smaller additional drain hole somewhere along the bottom of the trough. If you want it to be unobtrusive, the best place to put an addition hole is toward the front of the vessel (the side farthest from the tap), since a user will generally spend to most time looking toward the back side of the bowl, underneath the tap.

Unfortunately, if you want to be able to fill up the sink, you will need to have plugs for both holes.


---

### Answer by username_8 on 2020-02-10. Score: 3

You could make another little flat hole on just one side of the round plate and have a little plumb to converge from there in the main central plumbing, so as the main hole will got the direct water and the new small one just the remaining.

Obviously you'll need a little of inclination to get the water stream to the right direction.

Just an idea.


---

### Answer by username_9 on 2020-02-11. Score: -1

If you have a shop press that's rated for at least a few tons, you can try reshaping the bottom of the bowl so that it is concave, instead of convex, from how it is right now. To do this right, you'll probably need to heat up the bowl so that it's easier to work with, but the heat from a torch might damage the paint. Even a heat gun might damage the paint, and bending the bowl into a different shape could also destroy the paint.

Then again, I'm going to have to assume you put the ring depression around the hole and that didn't damage the paint, so you might be good to go. Also, if you put in that ring, you probably have the size of shop press to make this happen.

What you'll do is to find or make another heavy bowl or depression for this to sit in while you apply pressure from the top. You might want to use a large piece of rubber or a sandbag with a piece of steel on top to apply even pressure across the dome. The idea is to get the dome to pop out under the bowl or to press it into a different shape with a depression, instead of the raised bit you have. If it's only a 3-5mm, this shouldn't be too difficult, but if the dome does do a "tin can" kind of popping out the bottom, you might have all the pressure of your press released all at once, so strapping the bowl and other press items down would be a good idea.

To be honest, I haven't done anything like this myself, so I'd check to see if there are any tutorials or videos that might have a better way to make this attempt.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Is this something you can do with a ceramic bowl? Sounds kind of intense. There is a ring around the bottom of the bowl that it sits on so i would worry that would interfere. Also, I drilled the original hole with a diamond hole saw and touched it up with a countersink.  
> **username_9**: @username_0, I thought it was a metal bowl. This could destroy a ceramic bowl. Your best bet is to use the epoxy that username_2 suggested. If he hadn't already answered that, I would have.  

---

