<p>While papier-mache is undoubtedly the easiest way to make this type of 'plague doctor masks', the originals were made of leather and if you have the skills/tools/patience to do so you may find that you prefer the look (if not the weight) of the results.</p>

<p>There are several tutorials and patterns available - see <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Plague-Doctor-Mask/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> and <a href="https://makezine.com/2016/08/19/make-this-amazing-plague-doctors-mask/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T19:39:16.837Z
Ty for the suggestion, but the plague doctor theme it's not literal in this case, just an inspiration
AshenCrow
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T19:55:57.553Z
No worries, I suspected that papier-mache was more what you were after.
walrus
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T17:14:17.990Z
2017-09-14T17:14:17.990Z
walrus
<p>My go-to materials for something like this would be <a href="http://entropyhouse.com/penwiper/costumes/helmsdeep.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">craft foam</a> or <a href="http://www.worbla.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Worbla</a>. These two materials are easily heat-formed into lightweight, reasonably sturdy pieces. For craft foam, a gas stove or heavy duty hair-dryer can be used as the source of heat, but for Worbla something more substantial like a heat gun is ideal. </p>

<p>I'd recommend first making a pattern for the mask out of taped-together construction paper and then using that to cut out &amp; shape foam or Worbla pieces to your liking.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-01-17T17:07:44.747Z
Most reasonable suggestion here.
Nothingismagick
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-29T18:44:35.703Z
2017-09-29T18:44:35.703Z
jackwise
<p>If I didn't have the fifty bucks to buy one from a costume supply and had the time and patience to create; my affordable project would need:</p>

<ol>
<li><p>old adjustable ball cap</p></li>
<li><p>Velcro or leather boot laces (laces are more attractive)</p></li>
<li><p>Hot glue or stapler</p></li>
<li><p>cardboard (not corrugated, unless in a pinch)</p></li>
<li><p>metal stud from Thrift Store or Dry wall nails</p></li>
<li><p>Pleather, naugahide,  or any strip of faux leather</p></li>
</ol>

<p>Now cut the bill of the ball cap to form a beak.  Then remove the crown as well, but leave room for the eye holes.  Should the adjustment strap on the back not be enough, add the Velcro or (my preference) leather laces.  Make room for the bridge of your nose if need be, then try on the mask foundation.  Make it comfortable and then proceed.</p>

<p>Take your cardboard  (old monopoly box top), cut out a long slim triangle and bend to shape.  If you wet it the bending will be easier and the board will hold some of the form when dry.</p>

<p>Now staple or glue the formed beak to the bill of your cap.  When affixed move to the faux leather.  Cover the beak and, if there is enough, make a hood.  Glue or staple to cap. Trim off excess. Don't forget the eye holes.</p>

<p>Find some Krylon and spray every bit of the creation in your favorite color or lack of color in this case.  Then stud it up, hiding the staples.  Drywall nails have large heads and bend easily (aluminum) and can be as eye appealing as metal studs. They will need glue to stay in place.</p>

<p>Now go into the world protected from biting fleas and good luck at your future events.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-19T21:45:47.537Z
2017-09-19T21:45:47.537Z
user2624
<p>If you can borrow or build a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_forming" rel="nofollow noreferrer">vacuum former</a> it's quite easy, especially as you have something to use as a mould (which might need reinforcing but you would no longer care about the weight).  Many plastics will vacuum form; some of them are easy to cut out of the parent sheet once cooled and some of themwill take appropriate paint very well.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Vacuum-Former-Box-30/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Example build instructions for a quick-and dirty vacuum former</a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-19T11:12:31.830Z
This method can produce sturdy masks as well? I kinda wanna try it too.
AshenCrow
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-19T11:37:42.977Z
@MoonKnight98, I've used it for model boats, RC cars, and WWI steel helmets (using an original as the mould; we needed about 30). Easily sturdy enough for masks, and a good way to get the shape of several identical. This was with a proper system rather than heating the sheet in an oven. You might want quite thin sheet to keep the weight down.
Chris H
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-19T10:47:49.197Z
2017-09-19T10:47:49.197Z
Chris H
<p>Plaster that is thick enough to be reasonably strong and rigid will probably be too heavy. </p>

<p>Masks are often made from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">papier mache</a>, essentially building up strips of paper soaked in paste over a former which dried to a fairly strong but lightweight material. Other methods involve pressing paper pulp into a mould. </p>

<p>You could also use your plaster original as a former as long as you coat it with wax, Vaseline ect to act as a release agent and prevent the paper from sticking. </p>

<p>An quick internet search will find many tutorials on making masks in this way. </p>

<p>The big advantage of papier-mache is that you don't really need much in the way of tools and equipment to work with it and teh raw materials are cheap and easy to get hold of. </p>

<p>There are also many other options depending on your particular priorities, moulded leather, sheet metal or cast resin or composites would all potentially be pretty cool but there you are looking at either a substantial investment in time, practice and materials or engaging a specialist to work with you to make it. </p>

<p>Having said that you may find that if you reach out a bit you may find an artist of fabricator who is sufficiently interred in the project to give you a good deal. I would certainly be interested in something like this but equally if you want at a good deal based on collaboration you need to be prepared to give up some creative control of the project. So you need to make sure that you have a similar vision in mind. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T13:36:15.380Z
The papier mache won't give any problems related to the beak structure?
AshenCrow
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T17:01:09.553Z
It should be fine for the beak, with care you can get some pretty complex shapes with it.
Chris Johns
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T17:08:22.717Z
We had a question about lightweight papier-mache that you might find useful:

https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3408/formula-for-strong-but-lightweight-paper-mache
walrus
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T20:21:50.583Z
+1 papier mache. If the beak gives problems you can reinforce it with a wire hangar or some chicken wire. Let the chicken wire show through for more brütl
asasgharg
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-14T13:30:28.383Z
2017-09-24T23:47:32.880Z
2017-09-24T23:47:32.880Z
Chris Johns
<p>I have a metal band that use costumes for shows, I need to craft a mask that is durable but not too heavy, since I will use it on live presentations. I tried to make it using plastered gauze, but it seems too flexible.</p>

<p>Here's visual representation (the grid part is inside).
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/FvWQ2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/FvWQ2.png" alt=""></a></p>

<material-selection><costume-design>
Crafting a sturdy, not heavy mask for shows
AshenCrow
# Crafting a sturdy, not heavy mask for shows

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-09-14)

I have a metal band that use costumes for shows, I need to craft a mask that is durable but not too heavy, since I will use it on live presentations. I tried to make it using plastered gauze, but it seems too flexible.

Here's visual representation (the grid part is inside).
[![](https://i.sstatic.net/FvWQ2.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/FvWQ2.png)

**Tags:** material-selection, costume-design


---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_6 on 2017-09-14. Score: 7 | Accepted answer

Plaster that is thick enough to be reasonably strong and rigid will probably be too heavy.

Masks are often made from [papier mache](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9), essentially building up strips of paper soaked in paste over a former which dried to a fairly strong but lightweight material. Other methods involve pressing paper pulp into a mould.

You could also use your plaster original as a former as long as you coat it with wax, Vaseline ect to act as a release agent and prevent the paper from sticking.

An quick internet search will find many tutorials on making masks in this way.

The big advantage of papier-mache is that you don't really need much in the way of tools and equipment to work with it and teh raw materials are cheap and easy to get hold of.

There are also many other options depending on your particular priorities, moulded leather, sheet metal or cast resin or composites would all potentially be pretty cool but there you are looking at either a substantial investment in time, practice and materials or engaging a specialist to work with you to make it.

Having said that you may find that if you reach out a bit you may find an artist of fabricator who is sufficiently interred in the project to give you a good deal. I would certainly be interested in something like this but equally if you want at a good deal based on collaboration you need to be prepared to give up some creative control of the project. So you need to make sure that you have a similar vision in mind.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The papier mache won't give any problems related to the beak structure?  
> **username_6**: It should be fine for the beak, with care you can get some pretty complex shapes with it.  
> **username_1**: We had a question about lightweight papier-mache that you might find useful:  https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3408/formula-for-strong-but-lightweight-paper-mache  
> **username_7**: +1 papier mache. If the beak gives problems you can reinforce it with a wire hangar or some chicken wire. Let the chicken wire show through for more brütl  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-09-14. Score: 4

While papier-mache is undoubtedly the easiest way to make this type of 'plague doctor masks', the originals were made of leather and if you have the skills/tools/patience to do so you may find that you prefer the look (if not the weight) of the results.

There are several tutorials and patterns available - see [here](http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Plague-Doctor-Mask/) and [here](https://makezine.com/2016/08/19/make-this-amazing-plague-doctors-mask/).

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Ty for the suggestion, but the plague doctor theme it's not literal in this case, just an inspiration  
> **username_1**: No worries, I suspected that papier-mache was more what you were after.  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2017-09-29. Score: 4

My go-to materials for something like this would be [craft foam](http://entropyhouse.com/penwiper/costumes/helmsdeep.html) or [Worbla](http://www.worbla.com/). These two materials are easily heat-formed into lightweight, reasonably sturdy pieces. For craft foam, a gas stove or heavy duty hair-dryer can be used as the source of heat, but for Worbla something more substantial like a heat gun is ideal.

I'd recommend first making a pattern for the mask out of taped-together construction paper and then using that to cut out & shape foam or Worbla pieces to your liking.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Most reasonable suggestion here.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2017-09-19. Score: 3

If I didn't have the fifty bucks to buy one from a costume supply and had the time and patience to create; my affordable project would need:

1. old adjustable ball cap
2. Velcro or leather boot laces (laces are more attractive)
3. Hot glue or stapler
4. cardboard (not corrugated, unless in a pinch)
5. metal stud from Thrift Store or Dry wall nails
6. Pleather, naugahide, or any strip of faux leather

Now cut the bill of the ball cap to form a beak. Then remove the crown as well, but leave room for the eye holes. Should the adjustment strap on the back not be enough, add the Velcro or (my preference) leather laces. Make room for the bridge of your nose if need be, then try on the mask foundation. Make it comfortable and then proceed.

Take your cardboard (old monopoly box top), cut out a long slim triangle and bend to shape. If you wet it the bending will be easier and the board will hold some of the form when dry.

Now staple or glue the formed beak to the bill of your cap. When affixed move to the faux leather. Cover the beak and, if there is enough, make a hood. Glue or staple to cap. Trim off excess. Don't forget the eye holes.

Find some Krylon and spray every bit of the creation in your favorite color or lack of color in this case. Then stud it up, hiding the staples. Drywall nails have large heads and bend easily (aluminum) and can be as eye appealing as metal studs. They will need glue to stay in place.

Now go into the world protected from biting fleas and good luck at your future events.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2017-09-19. Score: 2

If you can borrow or build a [vacuum former](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_forming) it's quite easy, especially as you have something to use as a mould (which might need reinforcing but you would no longer care about the weight). Many plastics will vacuum form; some of them are easy to cut out of the parent sheet once cooled and some of themwill take appropriate paint very well.

[Example build instructions for a quick-and dirty vacuum former](http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Vacuum-Former-Box-30/)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: This method can produce sturdy masks as well? I kinda wanna try it too.  
> **username_5**: @MoonKnight98, I've used it for model boats, RC cars, and WWI steel helmets (using an original as the mould; we needed about 30). Easily sturdy enough for masks, and a good way to get the shape of several identical. This was with a proper system rather than heating the sheet in an oven. You might want quite thin sheet to keep the weight down.  

---

