<p>A jewelers saw (also known as a piecing saw) should do the job these have very thin, fine toothed blades, almost a like a flattened wire which can handle very intricate cutting jobs. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6Hh4z.jpg" alt="jewelers saw"></a></p>

<p><sup>Image from <a href="http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">micromark.com</a></sup></p>

<p>You may also want some needle files to tidy up the cut edges afterwards. </p>

<p>You will need to drill a small hole where you want to start the cut. Then you can disconnect one end of the saw blade from the frame, thread it through the hole and reattach it. </p>

<p>These saws to take a bit of skill to use effectively but if you get the basic technique right you can achieve good results with care and patience even if you don't have much experience. The big advantage over power tools for something like this is that you have a lot more control over the rate at which you cut so there is less chance of making mistakes. It is also important to use the correct blades for the job, which is largely determined by the thickness of the material. If you use too coarse a blade for the thickness of the material it will tend to snag and jam. For metal around 1.5mm thick you are looking at around 50 teeth per inch. </p>

<p>Similarly you need to set the correct blade tension (do this by flexing the frame of the saw against the bench as you attach the blade), it should give a clear 'ping' when you pluck it like a guitar string. </p>

<p>Also bear in mind that the teeth are directional and conventionally you should be cutting on the pull stroke (downwards if you are using a bench peg) this means that the work is pulled into the peg, keeping it stable and the blade is only loaded in tension. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-05T21:07:26.280Z
Thanks for this.  I actually remember one of these in shop class, but those were very flimsy, so I'm not sure if it would work; Although, I did see some nice pieces being cut on GoogleImages, so there are probably very strong ones as well.  I feel that this might produce some not so clean work, especially since I am not experienced with this tool.  If my PlanA doesn't work, I'll look into this.  Thanks a lot.
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-05T23:26:04.760Z
@CreationEdge thanks!  For sure they are probably very strong, but they seem to be difficult to use properly, or cut things easily.  AS mentioned some edges might need cleaning up as well.  I'll see how well plan A works, because I think that the stamped lettering should work well if I slowly eat at the metal with the tool I'm going to use, but I am also thinking of introducing some new letters, so this saw might be a good fit.  Are there recommended brands I should look for, and types for stainless steel? Seems there are differences in blade depth and "blades per inch?"  Thanks.
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-10T22:43:36.923Z
Just wanted to update that Plan A did NOT work (or is taking a crazy amount of time for not so good results).  I will be ordering this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8RFB5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38WFKVAMEYW7E so hopefully this will work out well.  I think this should be good, and anything that gets messed up can be fixed with the deburring tool for touchups.  Thanks so much for your time both of you, I just hope this saw works :P @CreationEdge
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-14T21:53:57.077Z
NOTE:  This is the wrong tool for the job, as the neck is not tall enough for my project (I watched a video that mention to get a long throat).  I ended up going with a Coping saw which s 6" and a Fretsaw which is 12" deep, compared to the 3" Jewelers saw.  The Fretsaw is also made for intricate work, which is something I will need.  Will post my own answer to sum this question up, but I'll keep my upvote for this; however checkmark will go away because it's NOT the correct tool, as it's claimed use from what I read is for "softer metals.":
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-26T01:24:19.540Z
UPDATE:  I am unchecking this as the correct answer as a Jewelers saw, coping saw, nor a fretsaw using multiple blades were able to do the job.  The latter 2 seem more for wood working than for metal, and the blades were much bigger than the jewelers saw, which didn't give me enough room to even cut for my project, let alone even being able to cut.  I am going to try a dremel to see if I can work something out, but a bit sad thus far.  I appreciate the answer provided @Chris but for my case It's not the "correct answer" but I do not know what would be. I will recheck if I cant find anything.
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-05T18:13:00.930Z
2016-10-06T14:40:50.840Z
2016-10-06T14:40:50.840Z
Chris Johns
<p>I have a piece of thick-sheet metal that has letters stamped in it that looks like this <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WIQmL.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WIQmL.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>to which I am looking to cut the lettering out of the metal.  I am curious what tools would work for this?  The metal itself isn't too think, but is thicker than a normal piece of sheet metal.</p>

<p>I have seen a few metal cutting tools, such as snips and nibblers, but they cut through the metal to get to their point of interest, which I only want the lettering to be cut.  I have also read that laser/water-cutting nozzles can get caught in stamped grooves, which could damage the nozzles, so that option is out.</p>

<p>I originally was looking to get one of these tools</p>

<p><a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006KLGZJI" rel="noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/SCRAPER-SC-1000-DEBURRING-TOOL/dp/B006KLGZJI/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475102130&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=deburring+tool+noga</a></p>

<p>and try to shave off little bits of metal alone the way.  This would be the most tedious, but would probably produce great results (I hope).</p>

<p>I am curious if anyone have any recommendations on what tool would be useful for my needs?  I think the grooves would provide good support for this tool so it wont cause mistakes, and I think that since it's stamped, it should be easier to cut through?</p>

<p>I also am looking to provide additional lettering (non-stamped) and curious if this tool would work if I had some sort of stencil/guide as well?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-29T00:17:12.490Z
I'd approach it with a good pair of safety glasses and a dremel-type tool with a metal-cutting bit, but I've never actually done anything like that, so comment rather than answer.
Martha
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-29T12:35:25.667Z
the spacing is too thin for a dremel, blade which are larger.  I need something that would be very precise.  Thanks for the mention though, I probably should have mentioned that above that I did think about the dremel, but don't think it will do the job.
XaolingBao
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-29T14:03:09.533Z
I was thinking one of those mini circular-saw blades, not the "glorified drill bit" type. But even the "glorified drill bit" type of cutting blade comes in some pretty small sizes.
Martha
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-29T14:47:33.353Z
Is that a mold for something? Where did that come from? It being sheet metal seems odd.
Matt
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-09-29T20:56:22.513Z
That's not an exact pic, just an example.  It's stamped into a thinish piece of sheet metal that was bent into shape.  It's prob 1-2mm thick, if that.
XaolingBao
<tool-selection><cutting><metal>
How would I cut out lettering from a stamped piece of thick-sheet metal
XaolingBao
# How would I cut out lettering from a stamped piece of thick-sheet metal

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-09-28)

I have a piece of thick-sheet metal that has letters stamped in it that looks like this [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/WIQmL.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/WIQmL.jpg)

to which I am looking to cut the lettering out of the metal. I am curious what tools would work for this? The metal itself isn't too think, but is thicker than a normal piece of sheet metal.

I have seen a few metal cutting tools, such as snips and nibblers, but they cut through the metal to get to their point of interest, which I only want the lettering to be cut. I have also read that laser/water-cutting nozzles can get caught in stamped grooves, which could damage the nozzles, so that option is out.

I originally was looking to get one of these tools

[https://www.amazon.com/SCRAPER-SC-1000-DEBURRING-TOOL/dp/B006KLGZJI/ref=sr\_1\_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1475102130&sr=8-15&keywords=deburring+tool+noga](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006KLGZJI)

and try to shave off little bits of metal alone the way. This would be the most tedious, but would probably produce great results (I hope).

I am curious if anyone have any recommendations on what tool would be useful for my needs? I think the grooves would provide good support for this tool so it wont cause mistakes, and I think that since it's stamped, it should be easier to cut through?

I also am looking to provide additional lettering (non-stamped) and curious if this tool would work if I had some sort of stencil/guide as well?

Thanks.

**Tags:** tool-selection, cutting, metal

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I'd approach it with a good pair of safety glasses and a dremel-type tool with a metal-cutting bit, but I've never actually done anything like that, so comment rather than answer.  
> **username_0**: the spacing is too thin for a dremel, blade which are larger.  I need something that would be very precise.  Thanks for the mention though, I probably should have mentioned that above that I did think about the dremel, but don't think it will do the job.  
> **username_1**: I was thinking one of those mini circular-saw blades, not the "glorified drill bit" type. But even the "glorified drill bit" type of cutting blade comes in some pretty small sizes.  
> **username_2**: Is that a mold for something? Where did that come from? It being sheet metal seems odd.  
> **username_0**: That's not an exact pic, just an example.  It's stamped into a thinish piece of sheet metal that was bent into shape.  It's prob 1-2mm thick, if that.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2016-10-05. Score: 4

A jewelers saw (also known as a piecing saw) should do the job these have very thin, fine toothed blades, almost a like a flattened wire which can handle very intricate cutting jobs.

[![jewelers saw](https://i.sstatic.net/6Hh4z.jpg)](http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html)

Image from [micromark.com](http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html)

You may also want some needle files to tidy up the cut edges afterwards.

You will need to drill a small hole where you want to start the cut. Then you can disconnect one end of the saw blade from the frame, thread it through the hole and reattach it.

These saws to take a bit of skill to use effectively but if you get the basic technique right you can achieve good results with care and patience even if you don't have much experience. The big advantage over power tools for something like this is that you have a lot more control over the rate at which you cut so there is less chance of making mistakes. It is also important to use the correct blades for the job, which is largely determined by the thickness of the material. If you use too coarse a blade for the thickness of the material it will tend to snag and jam. For metal around 1.5mm thick you are looking at around 50 teeth per inch.

Similarly you need to set the correct blade tension (do this by flexing the frame of the saw against the bench as you attach the blade), it should give a clear 'ping' when you pluck it like a guitar string.

Also bear in mind that the teeth are directional and conventionally you should be cutting on the pull stroke (downwards if you are using a bench peg) this means that the work is pulled into the peg, keeping it stable and the blade is only loaded in tension.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thanks for this.  I actually remember one of these in shop class, but those were very flimsy, so I'm not sure if it would work; Although, I did see some nice pieces being cut on GoogleImages, so there are probably very strong ones as well.  I feel that this might produce some not so clean work, especially since I am not experienced with this tool.  If my PlanA doesn't work, I'll look into this.  Thanks a lot.  
> **username_0**: @CreationEdge thanks!  For sure they are probably very strong, but they seem to be difficult to use properly, or cut things easily.  AS mentioned some edges might need cleaning up as well.  I'll see how well plan A works, because I think that the stamped lettering should work well if I slowly eat at the metal with the tool I'm going to use, but I am also thinking of introducing some new letters, so this saw might be a good fit.  Are there recommended brands I should look for, and types for stainless steel? Seems there are differences in blade depth and "blades per inch?"  Thanks.  
> **username_0**: Just wanted to update that Plan A did NOT work (or is taking a crazy amount of time for not so good results).  I will be ordering this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8RFB5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38WFKVAMEYW7E so hopefully this will work out well.  I think this should be good, and anything that gets messed up can be fixed with the deburring tool for touchups.  Thanks so much for your time both of you, I just hope this saw works :P @CreationEdge  
> **username_0**: NOTE:  This is the wrong tool for the job, as the neck is not tall enough for my project (I watched a video that mention to get a long throat).  I ended up going with a Coping saw which s 6" and a Fretsaw which is 12" deep, compared to the 3" Jewelers saw.  The Fretsaw is also made for intricate work, which is something I will need.  Will post my own answer to sum this question up, but I'll keep my upvote for this; however checkmark will go away because it's NOT the correct tool, as it's claimed use from what I read is for "softer metals.":  
> **username_0**: UPDATE:  I am unchecking this as the correct answer as a Jewelers saw, coping saw, nor a fretsaw using multiple blades were able to do the job.  The latter 2 seem more for wood working than for metal, and the blades were much bigger than the jewelers saw, which didn't give me enough room to even cut for my project, let alone even being able to cut.  I am going to try a dremel to see if I can work something out, but a bit sad thus far.  I appreciate the answer provided @username_3 but for my case It's not the "correct answer" but I do not know what would be. I will recheck if I cant find anything.  

---

