<p>I've used wood from popsicle sticks and wooden coffee stirrers for model making. Matchsticks might be more fragile, but what I used would be a starting point.</p>
<p>My usual tool is a razor saw, like Chris H suggested, used in a tiny aluminum miter box. The saw I use is similar to this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Pv9fI.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Pv9fI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <sub><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08VRHNN5Q" rel="noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a></sub></p>
<p>It has a very thin blade with very fine teeth that cut on pull. Very fine teeth will minimize tearing, so the wood will hold together better. The miter box looks like this, but mine is a different brand:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/RhnUV.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/RhnUV.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <sub><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CM12TLT" rel="noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a></p>
<p>My miter box is sized to use with razor saws (important so the blade doesn't drift around in the slot, and it will be in the slot for the length of the cutting stroke).</p>
<p>For something as tiny as matchsticks, I would do them in batches. Make a block of aligned matchsticks. Gluing one end, like Chris H mentioned, will hold the block together (only the far end is glued to stabilize the pieces; as you cut the other end, you have loose cubes). The bottom of the miter box usually has some ridges, so you would want to line it with cardboard or something to level it for this. If you can, find a way to clamp the block in the miter box. These miter boxes usually have a lip so you can press it against the edge of the worktop to keep it stable while you cut.</p>
<p>Don't try to speed up the process with more pressure on the saw. It should make a clean cut with minimal loss of wood.</p>
<p>If you want to use a Dremel tool, a carbide blade wouldn't be the best for this. You can get circular saw-tooth disks. They come in different diameters and different teeth.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SMHNx.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SMHNx.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <sub><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HRT94RH" rel="noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a></sub></p>
<p>The ones pictured are a little thick. I use ones that look like they're cut from thin sheet metal. They make a clean cut in small soft wood and don't remove much (couldn't find a picture).  A large diameter disk might have too much drag if your rotary tool doesn't have a strong motor. For something as small and fragile as matchsticks, use one with a lot of fine teeth.</p>
<p>Another type of disk that would work for this is resin cutting disks:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/GhrfT.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/GhrfT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000SMQS5G" rel="noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a></sub></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T08:54:02.563Z
Good find on the tiny circular saws
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T09:07:33.157Z
It appears from the photo that the circular saw blades are 0.8 mm thick, rather thin and well suited for the matchsticks, especially the high tooth count versions. I've used this type of blade and the results are impressive on soft materials. Important to maintain a stable position while cutting!
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T19:03:59.347Z
@fred_dot_u I'd want a jig of some sort, though my (pseudo) Dremel really isn't shaped for mounting
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T20:08:22.037Z
I agree with the jig suggestion, which would keep the disk on plane with the cut, a certain safety feature!
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T04:52:33.663Z
2023-03-18T04:52:33.663Z
Dolly
<p>I use a lot of this type of material for making dolls house style furniture and accessories. What I tend to do is to soak the wood in warm water, and then I split it along the grain using a regular craft knife with a good quality stainless steel blade.</p>
<p>When the wood is damp it brings out the grain which makes it much easier to add texture to by dry brushing, and it makes the wood more likely to split than to splinter as it is soggy. You just need to score the wood and then apply firm pressure to it along the line of the grain.</p>
<p>If you need to cut across the grain, try a hand held miter cutter on dry wood. It's easier to apply more pressure than you can from a craft knife, and it's more precise than a rotary cutting tool.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-24T11:24:25.310Z
And you think that would have the same effect for cutting wood against the grain?
Joachim
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-24T18:52:30.947Z
@Joachim, no, it would have the opposite effect. The wood swells up so you have a less well defined surface to get a purchase on with a toothed saw, and additional friction for a smooth bladed knife. The OP does not mention cutting across the grain, so it wasn't a requirement. The only solution that I'm aware of for cutting across the grain it to either have a really sharp tool or to use a force magnifier like a miter cutter. These are generally better with dry wood.
Aaargh Zombies
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-25T05:24:50.883Z
I'm confused. The question asks how to cut matchsticks into 1/4 cm cubes. Can you clarify what you're suggesting that they do to accomplish that?
Dolly
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-25T07:54:21.053Z
@Dolly, The wood will absorb the water and become softer, making it easier to cut along the grain, thus reducing splitting.
Aaargh Zombies
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-25T10:01:34.487Z
I assume all matchsticks are produced the same way (cut along the grain) and, seeing that the OP mentions wanting to cut them into small cubes, I think "against the grain" is very much implied. That was my point :)
Joachim
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-25T11:36:30.417Z
@Joachim, unless the OP puts it in their question we cannot know for certain. I prefer not to rule out a possible answer based on supposition. If they are having splintering problems when cutting across the grain, the problem is either cheap material, a blunt knife, or using the wrong cutting tool. These have already been covered by other answers. Saying the same thing again serves no purpose.
Aaargh Zombies
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-25T17:17:03.153Z
I don't want to downvote this; it would be my first one, plus it might look self-serving since I have an answer, too. But honestly, it doesn't seem like a useful answer. Cutting something like a matchstick, nobody thinks in terms of grain. You can guess that it runs the long way, but to get 1/4 cm cubes, you have to cut that off the end of the matchstick. So you think in terms of cutting across the matchstick, not which way the grain runs (and you don't say). The answer suggests wetting, but also talks about not wetting, and the choice is tied to grain direction, which the reader may not know.
Dolly
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-26T11:10:41.717Z
@Dolly, I also made a suggestion for cutting across the grain. A hand held miter cutter is what you need. It's cross between a pair of scissors and a pair of shears. It will cut through matchsticks like butter across the grain.
Aaargh Zombies
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-29T15:41:14.330Z
@AaarghZombies matchsticks are usually rather soft and compressible.  I've cut them with a few different squeeze type tools, and they always dent.  Those mitre cutters would probably be as good as a sharp pair of anvil secateurs, which is to say you'd get a dent only on one side
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-29T15:51:02.823Z
@Chris H, I use them regularly to make doll house furniture. If you're getting a dent then you need to put the matchstick slightly further down the length of the cutter, and to make sure that you have a good quality blade. The blade on secateurs are too wide to get a good cut on something so small.
Aaargh Zombies
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-24T11:13:24.700Z
2023-03-25T07:56:41.753Z
2023-03-25T07:56:41.753Z
Aaargh Zombies
<p>I want to make some itty bitty wooden cubes, so I bought some crafting matchsticks and planned to cut them. However, when I cut them, they break up into strands of wood and become brittle. Any idea how I could reinforce them (like soak in in wood glue)? Or recommend a different material/brand?</p>
<p>I plan to cut them with a dremel tool. (: I want them to be close to 1/4 cm cubes and plan to paint them and glue them together to create pixel-esque designs, so making resin cubes is not a possibility.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-17T20:36:57.337Z
What attachment are you planning on using on the Dremel? I haven't seen a blade for wood. Personally I'd go for a razor saw. Also how are you holding them? If you chop the heads off a lot, glue together at one end into a block, then cut starting at the other end, they'll support each other
Chris H
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T00:44:40.020Z
Im thinking of using a carbide cutting wheel attachment. I will have to look into a razor saw for sure. The sticks I have are made for crafts (krafty kids matchsticks from amazon) so they have no matchheads already. (: My main issue it that they essentially crumble after cutting. I did use scissors for the first two trial cuts, though, so that may be a reason. The stability of the wood seems bad regardless though. I was also thinking of using clamps or forcepts/long tweezers to hold the wood while cutting. I'd prefer to have them be tiny cubes rather than glued together while cutting.
Zalimeow
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-18T08:52:50.657Z
The cutting wheels I have wouldn't do a good job on wood, and are also rather thick
Chris H
<wood><technique-selection>
How to keep Craft matchsticks from splitting while cutting?
Zalimeow
# How to keep Craft matchsticks from splitting while cutting?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2023-03-17)

I want to make some itty bitty wooden cubes, so I bought some crafting matchsticks and planned to cut them. However, when I cut them, they break up into strands of wood and become brittle. Any idea how I could reinforce them (like soak in in wood glue)? Or recommend a different material/brand?

I plan to cut them with a dremel tool. (: I want them to be close to 1/4 cm cubes and plan to paint them and glue them together to create pixel-esque designs, so making resin cubes is not a possibility.

**Tags:** wood, technique-selection

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: What attachment are you planning on using on the Dremel? I haven't seen a blade for wood. Personally I'd go for a razor saw. Also how are you holding them? If you chop the heads off a lot, glue together at one end into a block, then cut starting at the other end, they'll support each other  
> **username_0**: Im thinking of using a carbide cutting wheel attachment. I will have to look into a razor saw for sure. The sticks I have are made for crafts (krafty kids matchsticks from amazon) so they have no matchheads already. (: My main issue it that they essentially crumble after cutting. I did use scissors for the first two trial cuts, though, so that may be a reason. The stability of the wood seems bad regardless though. I was also thinking of using clamps or forcepts/long tweezers to hold the wood while cutting. I'd prefer to have them be tiny cubes rather than glued together while cutting.  
> **username_1**: The cutting wheels I have wouldn't do a good job on wood, and are also rather thick  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2023-03-18. Score: 7

I've used wood from popsicle sticks and wooden coffee stirrers for model making. Matchsticks might be more fragile, but what I used would be a starting point.

My usual tool is a razor saw, like username_1 suggested, used in a tiny aluminum miter box. The saw I use is similar to this:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/Pv9fI.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/Pv9fI.png) [Amazon](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08VRHNN5Q)

It has a very thin blade with very fine teeth that cut on pull. Very fine teeth will minimize tearing, so the wood will hold together better. The miter box looks like this, but mine is a different brand:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/RhnUV.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/RhnUV.png) [Amazon](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CM12TLT)

My miter box is sized to use with razor saws (important so the blade doesn't drift around in the slot, and it will be in the slot for the length of the cutting stroke).

For something as tiny as matchsticks, I would do them in batches. Make a block of aligned matchsticks. Gluing one end, like username_1 mentioned, will hold the block together (only the far end is glued to stabilize the pieces; as you cut the other end, you have loose cubes). The bottom of the miter box usually has some ridges, so you would want to line it with cardboard or something to level it for this. If you can, find a way to clamp the block in the miter box. These miter boxes usually have a lip so you can press it against the edge of the worktop to keep it stable while you cut.

Don't try to speed up the process with more pressure on the saw. It should make a clean cut with minimal loss of wood.

If you want to use a Dremel tool, a carbide blade wouldn't be the best for this. You can get circular saw-tooth disks. They come in different diameters and different teeth.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/SMHNx.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/SMHNx.png) [Amazon](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HRT94RH)

The ones pictured are a little thick. I use ones that look like they're cut from thin sheet metal. They make a clean cut in small soft wood and don't remove much (couldn't find a picture). A large diameter disk might have too much drag if your rotary tool doesn't have a strong motor. For something as small and fragile as matchsticks, use one with a lot of fine teeth.

Another type of disk that would work for this is resin cutting disks:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/GhrfT.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/GhrfT.png) [Amazon](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000SMQS5G)

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Good find on the tiny circular saws  
> **username_3**: It appears from the photo that the circular saw blades are 0.8 mm thick, rather thin and well suited for the matchsticks, especially the high tooth count versions. I've used this type of blade and the results are impressive on soft materials. Important to maintain a stable position while cutting!  
> **username_1**: @username_3 I'd want a jig of some sort, though my (pseudo) Dremel really isn't shaped for mounting  
> **username_3**: I agree with the jig suggestion, which would keep the disk on plane with the cut, a certain safety feature!  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2023-03-24. Score: 0

I use a lot of this type of material for making dolls house style furniture and accessories. What I tend to do is to soak the wood in warm water, and then I split it along the grain using a regular craft knife with a good quality stainless steel blade.

When the wood is damp it brings out the grain which makes it much easier to add texture to by dry brushing, and it makes the wood more likely to split than to splinter as it is soggy. You just need to score the wood and then apply firm pressure to it along the line of the grain.

If you need to cut across the grain, try a hand held miter cutter on dry wood. It's easier to apply more pressure than you can from a craft knife, and it's more precise than a rotary cutting tool.

> **Comments:**
> **username_5**: And you think that would have the same effect for cutting wood against the grain?  
> **username_4**: @username_5, no, it would have the opposite effect. The wood swells up so you have a less well defined surface to get a purchase on with a toothed saw, and additional friction for a smooth bladed knife. The OP does not mention cutting across the grain, so it wasn't a requirement. The only solution that I'm aware of for cutting across the grain it to either have a really sharp tool or to use a force magnifier like a miter cutter. These are generally better with dry wood.  
> **username_2**: I'm confused. The question asks how to cut matchsticks into 1/4 cm cubes. Can you clarify what you're suggesting that they do to accomplish that?  
> **username_4**: @username_2, The wood will absorb the water and become softer, making it easier to cut along the grain, thus reducing splitting.  
> **username_5**: I assume all matchsticks are produced the same way (cut along the grain) and, seeing that the OP mentions wanting to cut them into small cubes, I think "against the grain" is very much implied. That was my point :)  
> **username_4**: @username_5, unless the OP puts it in their question we cannot know for certain. I prefer not to rule out a possible answer based on supposition. If they are having splintering problems when cutting across the grain, the problem is either cheap material, a blunt knife, or using the wrong cutting tool. These have already been covered by other answers. Saying the same thing again serves no purpose.  
> **username_2**: I don't want to downvote this; it would be my first one, plus it might look self-serving since I have an answer, too. But honestly, it doesn't seem like a useful answer. Cutting something like a matchstick, nobody thinks in terms of grain. You can guess that it runs the long way, but to get 1/4 cm cubes, you have to cut that off the end of the matchstick. So you think in terms of cutting across the matchstick, not which way the grain runs (and you don't say). The answer suggests wetting, but also talks about not wetting, and the choice is tied to grain direction, which the reader may not know.  
> **username_4**: @username_2, I also made a suggestion for cutting across the grain. A hand held miter cutter is what you need. It's cross between a pair of scissors and a pair of shears. It will cut through matchsticks like butter across the grain.  
> **username_1**: @username_4 matchsticks are usually rather soft and compressible.  I've cut them with a few different squeeze type tools, and they always dent.  Those mitre cutters would probably be as good as a sharp pair of anvil secateurs, which is to say you'd get a dent only on one side  
> **username_4**: @username_1, I use them regularly to make doll house furniture. If you're getting a dent then you need to put the matchstick slightly further down the length of the cutter, and to make sure that you have a good quality blade. The blade on secateurs are too wide to get a good cut on something so small.  

---

