<p>Gently deburr the cut edges with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood. Then rub down the entire piece of MDF with some walnut oil. When the oil has been absorbed, apply any wax based wooden floor treatment. When that is dry, buff it with a shoe brush.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-25T00:38:31.947Z
2017-11-25T00:38:31.947Z
Nothingismagick
<p>After light sanding, reinforce the flat black with a little black paint, then seal the entire block in a clear coat to make it more durable.  Alternatively, replace the black with a coat of burnt umber colored paint to match the interior of the laser cut symbol (kanji?).</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-02T03:54:59.860Z
By light sanding you just mean rubbing it a few times so that the particles go away, yeah? It will still be black?

What should I use for the coat?
Manishearth
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-02T13:14:43.460Z
Yes, light sanding is just to get rid of any particles.  If that sanding exposes any wood, (which would distinguish the tile from all others) you can correct it with a little paint.  For a coating, I would recommend Polycrylic which is a tough water-based clear coat by Minwax.  It comes in either matte or gloss.  Really any clear coat will do as long as you apply it in multiple thin coats to avoid brush strokes.
Henry Taylor
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-03T17:41:07.080Z
Thanks! For the burnt umber idea would I have have to sand completely or would it still work with light sanding?

(I'm mostly considering using black because I may also paint the kanji itself green and orange)
Manishearth
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-03T18:05:45.237Z
If you use a stain for the burn umber color, you will need to sand off the black.  If you use an opaque paint, you should be able to leave the black underneath.   Congrats on a beautiful project!
Henry Taylor
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-06T19:22:25.617Z
Thanks! Yeah, the (opaque) paint arrived yesterday and I tried it out; it looks pretty good!

(In case you're interested, here is what the fronts look like now: https://twitter.com/ManishEarth/status/927423843169214464 . Backs still look the same, I may paint them)
Manishearth
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-06T22:24:39.993Z
Very Nice!  Congrats Again!
Henry Taylor
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-02T03:19:26.263Z
2017-11-02T03:19:26.263Z
Henry Taylor
<p>I'm making a Hanabi set out of laser cut MDF. When you laser MDF it has a burnt cut edge.</p>

<p>This can be sanded off, however the tiles are supposed to be indistinguishable from one side, and I'm concerned I'll introduce variation in the piece whilst sanding.</p>

<p>I'm wondering if I can just leave it there (it looks pretty nice!). I can also sand it lightly to get rid of loose burnt particles. In the long run will it slowly rub off, or is it fine as is? Also, if I decide to varnish or otherwise finish these tiles, will these edges cause problems?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/74s1Q.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/74s1Q.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<wood>
How to deal with the burnt edges of laser cut MDF?
Manishearth
# How to deal with the burnt edges of laser cut MDF?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-11-02)

I'm making a Hanabi set out of laser cut MDF. When you laser MDF it has a burnt cut edge.

This can be sanded off, however the tiles are supposed to be indistinguishable from one side, and I'm concerned I'll introduce variation in the piece whilst sanding.

I'm wondering if I can just leave it there (it looks pretty nice!). I can also sand it lightly to get rid of loose burnt particles. In the long run will it slowly rub off, or is it fine as is? Also, if I decide to varnish or otherwise finish these tiles, will these edges cause problems?

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/74s1Q.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/74s1Q.jpg)

**Tags:** wood


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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2017-11-02. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

After light sanding, reinforce the flat black with a little black paint, then seal the entire block in a clear coat to make it more durable. Alternatively, replace the black with a coat of burnt umber colored paint to match the interior of the laser cut symbol (kanji?).

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: By light sanding you just mean rubbing it a few times so that the particles go away, yeah? It will still be black?  What should I use for the coat?  
> **username_2**: Yes, light sanding is just to get rid of any particles.  If that sanding exposes any wood, (which would distinguish the tile from all others) you can correct it with a little paint.  For a coating, I would recommend Polycrylic which is a tough water-based clear coat by Minwax.  It comes in either matte or gloss.  Really any clear coat will do as long as you apply it in multiple thin coats to avoid brush strokes.  
> **username_0**: Thanks! For the burnt umber idea would I have have to sand completely or would it still work with light sanding?  (I'm mostly considering using black because I may also paint the kanji itself green and orange)  
> **username_2**: If you use a stain for the burn umber color, you will need to sand off the black.  If you use an opaque paint, you should be able to leave the black underneath.   Congrats on a beautiful project!  
> **username_0**: Thanks! Yeah, the (opaque) paint arrived yesterday and I tried it out; it looks pretty good!  (In case you're interested, here is what the fronts look like now: https://twitter.com/ManishEarth/status/927423843169214464 . Backs still look the same, I may paint them)  
> **username_2**: Very Nice!  Congrats Again!  

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### Answer by username_1 on 2017-11-25. Score: 3

Gently deburr the cut edges with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood. Then rub down the entire piece of MDF with some walnut oil. When the oil has been absorbed, apply any wax based wooden floor treatment. When that is dry, buff it with a shoe brush.


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