<p>Abbie's answers are great and should work! However I wanted to provide a couple other options.</p>

<h2>Folding the edges under</h2>

<p>It <em>can</em> work. When you cut out your letters, add a seam allowance to all edges. Clip the curves and cut the corners with nice sharp scissors, then fold under and stitch.</p>

<p>Clipped corners, done properly, shouldn't fray a lot. A crisp cut will give the fabric flexibility to fold under neatly, and you can roll it a tiny bit more to hide the clipped spot. However, you can always add a dot of fray check to the clipped points if you are worried about it.</p>

<h2>Make a facing</h2>

<p>The preparation is similar to folding the edges under, except you are attaching a separate piece of fabric to the edges and folding <em>that</em> under instead. To do this:</p>

<ol>
<li>Before cutting, add seam allowances to the edges of the letters</li>
<li>Do the cutouts along the edges (with seam allowance added), both on your visible layer of fabric, and on the facing fabric (will end up on the back)</li>
<li>Sew the facing to the front along the cutouts, right sides together</li>
<li>Clip facing, turn, press; optionally topstitch along openings</li>
</ol>

<p>You can finish the edges of the facing fabric however you like since they won't be visible. However, this technique wouldn't work well with sheer or thin fabrics, as the facing could add visible bulk. This will also mean the finished piece is not reversible.</p>

<h2>Bind the edges</h2>

<p>Get or make some binding, depending on if you want it to match or contrast. Woven binding tape is cut on the bias, which allows it to stretch a little around curves. However, on corners you will either have to make miters or folds. It can be tricky to apply properly, so you may want to practice first if you haven't worked with binding before. This will add a little bulk on the edges and (if you are careful with your stitching!) can result in a reversible piece.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-23T18:48:30.180Z
+1 These are also incredible ideas..  I think I am going to do a few proof of concepts with the different techniques and figure out which I can do the easiest.  :)  That facing idea is great!  Thank you!
elika kohen
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-23T19:02:11.060Z
@elika If you do let us know how it works out, it'd be neat to see a direct comparison!
user812786
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-23T15:27:48.710Z
2017-08-23T15:27:48.710Z
user812786
<p>I would like to cut letters <strong><em>INTO</em></strong> a piece of cloth, but - I would like to "fold" the <strong><em>inside</em></strong> edge under itself to make a nicer edge, (perhaps helping prevent it from unravelling/tearing in the future ...).</p>

<p>But, when you fold the fabric under itself, you either have to cut slits into it, creating a tear vulnerability, or - you create folds into the fabric ...</p>

<p><strong><em>Is there a best way for sewing up "cut-outs", (the shapes or letters you cut INTO fabric)?  Or, maybe - Is there any way to create the "folds/wrinkles" evenly?</em></strong></p>

<p><em>Please help reword this if you know the proper terms that I am missing!</em></p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<sewing><cutting><fabric>
How to Sew Up "Cut Outs", (Shapes Cut Into Fabrics)?
elika kohen
# How to Sew Up "Cut Outs", (Shapes Cut Into Fabrics)?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-08-22)

I would like to cut letters ***INTO*** a piece of cloth, but - I would like to "fold" the ***inside*** edge under itself to make a nicer edge, (perhaps helping prevent it from unravelling/tearing in the future ...).

But, when you fold the fabric under itself, you either have to cut slits into it, creating a tear vulnerability, or - you create folds into the fabric ...

***Is there a best way for sewing up "cut-outs", (the shapes or letters you cut INTO fabric)? Or, maybe - Is there any way to create the "folds/wrinkles" evenly?***

*Please help reword this if you know the proper terms that I am missing!*

Thanks!

**Tags:** sewing, cutting, fabric


---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-08-23. Score: 2

Abbie's answers are great and should work! However I wanted to provide a couple other options.

## Folding the edges under

It *can* work. When you cut out your letters, add a seam allowance to all edges. Clip the curves and cut the corners with nice sharp scissors, then fold under and stitch.

Clipped corners, done properly, shouldn't fray a lot. A crisp cut will give the fabric flexibility to fold under neatly, and you can roll it a tiny bit more to hide the clipped spot. However, you can always add a dot of fray check to the clipped points if you are worried about it.

## Make a facing

The preparation is similar to folding the edges under, except you are attaching a separate piece of fabric to the edges and folding *that* under instead. To do this:

1. Before cutting, add seam allowances to the edges of the letters
2. Do the cutouts along the edges (with seam allowance added), both on your visible layer of fabric, and on the facing fabric (will end up on the back)
3. Sew the facing to the front along the cutouts, right sides together
4. Clip facing, turn, press; optionally topstitch along openings

You can finish the edges of the facing fabric however you like since they won't be visible. However, this technique wouldn't work well with sheer or thin fabrics, as the facing could add visible bulk. This will also mean the finished piece is not reversible.

## Bind the edges

Get or make some binding, depending on if you want it to match or contrast. Woven binding tape is cut on the bias, which allows it to stretch a little around curves. However, on corners you will either have to make miters or folds. It can be tricky to apply properly, so you may want to practice first if you haven't worked with binding before. This will add a little bulk on the edges and (if you are careful with your stitching!) can result in a reversible piece.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: +1 These are also incredible ideas..  I think I am going to do a few proof of concepts with the different techniques and figure out which I can do the easiest.  :)  That facing idea is great!  Thank you!  
> **username_1**: @username_0 If you do let us know how it works out, it'd be neat to see a direct comparison!  

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