<p>You can buy the connectors quite cheaply, and you do not need screened cable for this sort of thing, it's fairly low frequency and the signals are not going far; and impedances are low enough.  Standard 7-strand 0.2mm, 3 or more cores will suffice.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-05-23T15:30:42.380Z
2022-05-23T15:30:42.380Z
Henry Robinson
<p>Just wanted to confirm that this does work...but it's incredibly tedious work. For my particular generic s video cable. the wires are sheathed around each other, so you have to carefully unsheath the outer wire without cutting the inner wire. These wires are so fragile that I inevitably cut through several strands. That's one issue.</p>
<p>The other issue is once you get 4 discreet wires, getting them to connect correctly given how thin the strands are makes it also a difficult task. Even after you've soldered them, they can't be heat shrunk together. So, when you finally go to heat shrink the whole thing up, you also inevitably get a lose connection.</p>
<p>So, even if this were to work when you get to the flying field to teach someone how to fly, I wouldn't be surprised if the cable isn't reliable.</p>
<p>I'm scrapping this project. Not worth it.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T17:44:52.967Z
In response to your comment from the now-deleted post about not having enough rep to comment: Still don't post an answer here if it's not an answer. If you have questions about anything in this OP, you should then make a new question that references this one.
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T17:45:27.207Z
I'm glad you're coming to our forum site, so welcome! But please acknowledge and abide by the code of conduct we use.
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-24T22:58:24.330Z
@Alvin, I found an S-Video cable in the house shortly after my problem above. Mine was wired similar to yours. Swapping the two inner wires over was a little tricky as you say, but it can be done, and insulated properly with a few well placed strips of heat shrink.

As for connecting the housings, I cut away a little of the plastic casing on each end to solder a wire to, but then found the cable seemed to work without it anyway. The cable is sadly a little unreliable, but because the plugs are not tight enough in the sockets, rather than because of the wiring. You can't win eh!
John Rix
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T16:02:25.820Z
2021-03-09T16:02:25.820Z
Alvin
<p>Yes, on both counts! That is an S-video (<em>aka. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini-DIN_connector" rel="noreferrer">Mini-DIN-4</a></em>) connector, and you can use it to make a buddy box cable. The port carries a 4-channel CPPM signal that can be used by cheap USB adapters as a joystick HID input to your computer or for buddy box mode, which FlySky calls &quot;Trainer mode&quot;. I've made one for my own use, following the specifications laid out by the user <a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2025431-Buddy-box-with-FlySky-T6" rel="noreferrer">gcartled on the RCGroups forum</a>.</p>
<h2>Making the Cable</h2>
<p>It appears that there are sellers with listings for ready-made FlySky trainer cables, like <a href="https://www.ebay.com/c/3006765774" rel="noreferrer">this one on eBay</a>, but I haven't tested them to confirm that they work. Note that @JohnRix in the comments has mentioned that the adapter he purchased for the i6 was incompatible with the i6x.</p>
<p>After obtaining a spare S-video cable (<em>or creating your own from Mini-DIN-4 male terminations</em>), chop it somewhere in the middle and reorder the connections for the 4 internal wires such that the pins 1 and 2 are connected to the opposite number on the other end of the cable. <em>i.e.:</em></p>
<ul>
<li>pin 1 → pin 2</li>
<li>pin 2 → pin 1</li>
<li>pin 3 → pin 3</li>
<li>pin 4 → pin 4</li>
<li>metal housing → metal housing</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/oyPdZ.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/oyPdZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>(<em><a href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27064080&amp;postcount=5" rel="noreferrer">cit.</a></em>)</p>
<p>This creates a crossover cable that allows the CPPM signals from the &quot;slave&quot;/trainee transmitter to be received by the &quot;master&quot;/trainer transmitter.</p>
<h2>Configuring the Trainer Transmitter to Enable &quot;Trainer Mode&quot;</h2>
<p>In order to use trainer/trainee functionality, the appropriate settings must be configured on the trainer's transmitter so that it knows what switch will be used to toggle on/off control inputs from the trainee's transmitter. In this setup, the trainer's radio is the only one bound to the aircraft.</p>
<p>These instructions are confirmed functional for the FS-i6X transmitter, but it is likely to also work with the FS-i6 and other derivatives:</p>
<ol>
<li>Turn on the transmitter.</li>
<li>Hold the <kbd>OK</kbd> key to open up the menu.</li>
<li>Scroll to <code>System Setup</code> and select with the <kbd>OK</kbd> key.</li>
<li>Scroll down to <code>Trainer mode</code> and select with the <kbd>OK</kbd> key.</li>
<li>Scroll using the <kbd>OK</kbd> key so that the horizontal arrow points to <code>Mode</code> and then use the <kbd>UP</kbd> key to change from Off to On.
<ul>
<li>If you want to disable buddy box functionality in the future, come back here and change the <code>Mode</code> back to Off.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Scroll using the <kbd>OK</kbd> key so that the horizontal arrow points to <code>Switch</code> and then use the <kbd>UP</kbd> and <kbd>DOWN</kbd> keys to select the switch that you'd like to use to enable/disable buddy box functionality.
<ul>
<li>(<em><strong>WARNING:</strong></em> <em>you shouldn't have this switch bound to anything on your aircraft, as this could cause issues inflight when something is accidentally triggered in the process of enabling/disabling the biddy box</em>)</li>
<li>Note the position of the switch you selected that changes the text <code>Inactive</code> to <code>Active</code> at the bottom of the screen. The <code>Active</code> position enables the buddy box and vice versa.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Hold the <kbd>CANCEL</kbd> key until you hear a beep to save the changes and then press <kbd>CANCEL</kbd> twice more to escape the menus all together.</li>
</ol>
<p>Now, go and fly!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-27T08:21:02.633Z
Are pins 3 and 4 required? Is the above programming for the master or student transmitter?
Robin Bennett
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-27T08:25:54.583Z
Also, it appears that you can just buy an offical Flysky buddy box cable for $10-15, from multiple sellers.
Robin Bennett
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-27T15:15:40.523Z
@RobinBennett I have not verified that to be the case. It appears you are correct about the ready-made cables, but I haven't tested them to confirm that they work.
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-27T22:16:37.240Z
Also, my answer clarifies which transmitter's settings need to be changed, the trainer's/master transmitter
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-28T09:26:02.673Z
Thanks, I'd missed that. Do you have to do anything to the student's transmitter?
Robin Bennett
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-28T16:18:41.713Z
No, the CPPM signal is always present on the FS-i6X Mini-DIN-4 port. No changes are necessary to the student transmitter. :)
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-07T15:09:09.607Z
For reference, I purchased one of the said cables. They all mention i6 and t6 but not i6x. You would expect they should work with i6x also, given same connector and similar models. Sadly not, at least for the cable I bought from BangGood. Pins 3 and 4 appear to be disconnected. I snipped the cable and there are only 4 wires internally, two of which swap pins 1 and 2, one which connects the housing, and another that appears to be unused, so not even possible to re-wire it. Grrrrr
John Rix
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T01:27:44.150Z
Huh. That's a good data point, I was unaware. Will edit the post.
ifconfig
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T01:29:00.897Z
So, I'm currently working on this project now and picked up a generic S Video cable from AMZN. Anyway, to be clear there appear to be two wires housed within the large black wire. When you unsheath the large black wire, you're left with these two wires. When you unsheath those wires, it seems one wire insulates the other wire? So, still effectively 4 wires, but confusing since one appears to insulate over the other. And exactly how do you use the ground wire to attach to the metal housing? Is there another point along the cable that one could solder a ground wire?
Alvin Adeva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-27T02:35:32.303Z
2021-03-08T01:29:18.217Z
2021-03-08T01:29:18.217Z
ifconfig
<p>I have a couple of FlySky FS-i6X RC transmitters that I'd like to use to teach my brother how to fly. I've seen other people use "buddy box" cables that connect two transmitters and allow one person to temporarily give the other control of the aircraft while in flight.</p>

<p>The back of the transmitter has a port that looks like an old S-video receptacle. Can I use that to make a buddy box cable?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/w4G4G.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/w4G4G.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-21T02:21:03.193Z
if i have 2 flysky controlers and have the back of the controler to usb cord can i connect them with a female to female usb adapter? thank you
LJ G
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-21T20:16:14.693Z
@LJG That may work, but I haven't tried it before
ifconfig
<hardware><buddy-box><flysky><fs-i6x>
How to build a buddy box cable for FlySky FS-i6X RC transmitters?
ifconfig
# How to build a buddy box cable for FlySky FS-i6X RC transmitters?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-05-27)

I have a couple of FlySky FS-i6X RC transmitters that I'd like to use to teach my brother how to fly. I've seen other people use "buddy box" cables that connect two transmitters and allow one person to temporarily give the other control of the aircraft while in flight.

The back of the transmitter has a port that looks like an old S-video receptacle. Can I use that to make a buddy box cable?

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/w4G4G.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/w4G4G.png)

**Tags:** hardware, buddy-box, flysky, fs-i6x

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: if i have 2 flysky controlers and have the back of the controler to usb cord can i connect them with a female to female usb adapter? thank you  
> **username_0**: @LJG That may work, but I haven't tried it before  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2020-05-27. Score: 6 | Accepted answer

Yes, on both counts! That is an S-video (*aka. [Mini-DIN-4](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini-DIN_connector)*) connector, and you can use it to make a buddy box cable. The port carries a 4-channel CPPM signal that can be used by cheap USB adapters as a joystick HID input to your computer or for buddy box mode, which FlySky calls "Trainer mode". I've made one for my own use, following the specifications laid out by the user [gcartled on the RCGroups forum](https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2025431-Buddy-box-with-FlySky-T6).

## Making the Cable

It appears that there are sellers with listings for ready-made FlySky trainer cables, like [this one on eBay](https://www.ebay.com/c/3006765774), but I haven't tested them to confirm that they work. Note that @username_4 in the comments has mentioned that the adapter he purchased for the i6 was incompatible with the i6x.

After obtaining a spare S-video cable (*or creating your own from Mini-DIN-4 male terminations*), chop it somewhere in the middle and reorder the connections for the 4 internal wires such that the pins 1 and 2 are connected to the opposite number on the other end of the cable. *i.e.:*

* pin 1 → pin 2
* pin 2 → pin 1
* pin 3 → pin 3
* pin 4 → pin 4
* metal housing → metal housing

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/oyPdZ.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/oyPdZ.png)

(*[cit.](https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27064080&postcount=5)*)

This creates a crossover cable that allows the CPPM signals from the "slave"/trainee transmitter to be received by the "master"/trainer transmitter.

## Configuring the Trainer Transmitter to Enable "Trainer Mode"

In order to use trainer/trainee functionality, the appropriate settings must be configured on the trainer's transmitter so that it knows what switch will be used to toggle on/off control inputs from the trainee's transmitter. In this setup, the trainer's radio is the only one bound to the aircraft.

These instructions are confirmed functional for the FS-i6X transmitter, but it is likely to also work with the FS-i6 and other derivatives:

1. Turn on the transmitter.
2. Hold the `OK` key to open up the menu.
3. Scroll to `System Setup` and select with the `OK` key.
4. Scroll down to `Trainer mode` and select with the `OK` key.
5. Scroll using the `OK` key so that the horizontal arrow points to `Mode` and then use the `UP` key to change from Off to On.
   * If you want to disable buddy box functionality in the future, come back here and change the `Mode` back to Off.
6. Scroll using the `OK` key so that the horizontal arrow points to `Switch` and then use the `UP` and `DOWN` keys to select the switch that you'd like to use to enable/disable buddy box functionality.
   * (***WARNING:*** *you shouldn't have this switch bound to anything on your aircraft, as this could cause issues inflight when something is accidentally triggered in the process of enabling/disabling the biddy box*)
   * Note the position of the switch you selected that changes the text `Inactive` to `Active` at the bottom of the screen. The `Active` position enables the buddy box and vice versa.
7. Hold the `CANCEL` key until you hear a beep to save the changes and then press `CANCEL` twice more to escape the menus all together.

Now, go and fly!

> **Comments:**
> **username_5**: Are pins 3 and 4 required? Is the above programming for the master or student transmitter?  
> **username_5**: Also, it appears that you can just buy an offical Flysky buddy box cable for $10-15, from multiple sellers.  
> **username_0**: @username_5 I have not verified that to be the case. It appears you are correct about the ready-made cables, but I haven't tested them to confirm that they work.  
> **username_0**: Also, my answer clarifies which transmitter's settings need to be changed, the trainer's/master transmitter  
> **username_5**: Thanks, I'd missed that. Do you have to do anything to the student's transmitter?  
> **username_0**: No, the CPPM signal is always present on the FS-i6X Mini-DIN-4 port. No changes are necessary to the student transmitter. :)  
> **username_4**: For reference, I purchased one of the said cables. They all mention i6 and t6 but not i6x. You would expect they should work with i6x also, given same connector and similar models. Sadly not, at least for the cable I bought from BangGood. Pins 3 and 4 appear to be disconnected. I snipped the cable and there are only 4 wires internally, two of which swap pins 1 and 2, one which connects the housing, and another that appears to be unused, so not even possible to re-wire it. Grrrrr  
> **username_0**: Huh. That's a good data point, I was unaware. Will edit the post.  
> **username_6**: So, I'm currently working on this project now and picked up a generic S Video cable from AMZN. Anyway, to be clear there appear to be two wires housed within the large black wire. When you unsheath the large black wire, you're left with these two wires. When you unsheath those wires, it seems one wire insulates the other wire? So, still effectively 4 wires, but confusing since one appears to insulate over the other. And exactly how do you use the ground wire to attach to the metal housing? Is there another point along the cable that one could solder a ground wire?  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2022-05-23. Score: 3

You can buy the connectors quite cheaply, and you do not need screened cable for this sort of thing, it's fairly low frequency and the signals are not going far; and impedances are low enough. Standard 7-strand 0.2mm, 3 or more cores will suffice.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-03-09. Score: 1

Just wanted to confirm that this does work...but it's incredibly tedious work. For my particular generic s video cable. the wires are sheathed around each other, so you have to carefully unsheath the outer wire without cutting the inner wire. These wires are so fragile that I inevitably cut through several strands. That's one issue.

The other issue is once you get 4 discreet wires, getting them to connect correctly given how thin the strands are makes it also a difficult task. Even after you've soldered them, they can't be heat shrunk together. So, when you finally go to heat shrink the whole thing up, you also inevitably get a lose connection.

So, even if this were to work when you get to the flying field to teach someone how to fly, I wouldn't be surprised if the cable isn't reliable.

I'm scrapping this project. Not worth it.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: In response to your comment from the now-deleted post about not having enough rep to comment: Still don't post an answer here if it's not an answer. If you have questions about anything in this OP, you should then make a new question that references this one.  
> **username_0**: I'm glad you're coming to our forum site, so welcome! But please acknowledge and abide by the code of conduct we use.  
> **username_4**: @username_3, I found an S-Video cable in the house shortly after my problem above. Mine was wired similar to yours. Swapping the two inner wires over was a little tricky as you say, but it can be done, and insulated properly with a few well placed strips of heat shrink.  As for connecting the housings, I cut away a little of the plastic casing on each end to solder a wire to, but then found the cable seemed to work without it anyway. The cable is sadly a little unreliable, but because the plugs are not tight enough in the sockets, rather than because of the wiring. You can't win eh!  

---

