The first two photos show the sandwich halves located on the inside and outside of the tilt shell. I decided to attach the hinges themselves to a separate board to keep them aligned and parallel for the mock-up. This board in turn was screwed to the sandwich halves. The spacing between the hinges will be dictated by the width of the grill. Since the hinges are located to the outside of the frame rails, and the radiator is mounted between the frame rails, there are no interference problems so far.
I needed a way to temporarily attach the hinges onto the tilt shell just to test them out and see if they would work the way I wanted. I decided to make up a couple of "clamps" that would sandwich the fiberglass between two parallel pieces of wood. I could then attach the hinges to the wood sandwich halves and clamp the entire assembly to the tilt shell. I made a contour template of the shell, transferred that to some wood blocks and cut out a pair of sandwich halves. I also added some rubber strips to the halves to grip the 'glass better.
These are the hinges I plan on using. They're probably used more for hood and trunk applications, but I'm going to try them out for the tilt. Since they are a compound hinge, the tilt will not only pivot up, but also away from the body as it opens. This will help in getting the rear portion of the fenders away from the doors early in the swing. This is an early mock-up of the hinges on the frame, first shown in the closed and then fully opened position. The hinges will open over 72 degrees, but I don't think I'll need that much swing. One consideration in using this type of hinge is that they need to be tied together in a way that they will pivot at the same time on the same axis, just like lining up the hinge pins on a door. The tilt shell itself, and later on, the linear actuators will keep the hinges aligned.
Here's the tilt shell mocked up on the body/frame. I put some white paper "targets" on the body and tilt and used a laser level to get a straight line down the beltline. This set the height of the tilt at the front. The rear portion of the front fender needed to be relieved to match the curvature of the body/saddle and give clearance for the tilt to open & close without hitting the body. Last picture shows the grille I'm using. I went with an Alumicraft grille instead of the reproduction chrome plated Willys grille. It's much better looking, and it will be a little different with the horizontal bars.