Memories of an Amazing Adventure
This is the second in a short series about my experiences of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage walk. In 2014, I turned 60, and to celebrate reaching this milestone, while still being fit and active, I decided that the Camino would be a perfect celebration for me. Much better than having a birthday party, as that really isn’t something that I would enjoy.
This year is the five year anniversary of my Camino walk, which began on 1st June and finished on the 7th July. I hope you will enjoy the series, and I particularly hope that anyone contemplating the Camino will find these posts helpful. Buen Camino!
Days 1 – 12
The first few days were quite tough, due to the crossing of the Pyrenees and bad weather. The Pyrenees provided everything that I’d heard about in relation to weather conditions – light rain, heavy rain, sleet, fog and snow. And even sunshine at times. But in some places, the conditions were extremely muddy, with the mud coming up over the top of my boots, as I sank into what looked like quick sand but was just very thick and sticky mud.
I remember the lovely Italian group who invited me to join hands to make a chain, so we all had support and didn’t fall over in the mud, such were the slippery conditions. Later that day, I was again thankful to that same family and group of friends, for inviting me to once again join hands to make a chain so we could help each other down an extremely steep and slippery path.I’m not sure what I would have done without those lovely people. They came along at the right time as I was looking down at the steep incline, contemplating having a good cry and considering turning back.
This was day one and already I’d come across a roadblock which would mean failure. There were eleven of us who held hands, forming a human chain and inched down that steep incline, very very slowly, one small step at a time. There is a saying that ‘the Camino provides’. The Camino definitely provided for me on day 1.
After The Pyrenees
After the crossing of the Pyrenees, the weather was perfect, summer weather – hot but not too hot. My memories of the first two weeks, are walking through very poor and basic farming communities and small villages where dogs and cows wandered through the muddy and manure filled laneways.
This was followed by large bustling cities such as Pamplona, Longrono and Burgos. I found the contrast a little hard to take. I took a rest day in Longrono and Burgos, not because I needed a rest, but because I wanted to try do some sightseeing, knowing I probably would never be back there.
Another memory is the day that I had a bit of a hiccup and ran out of water at about the 12k mark. of what would be a 40k day. This day was longer and hotter than usual. Unusually, there were no small villages or water fountains along the way where I could have bought more water. With about 5k to go, I was getting a bit lightheaded, stressed and dehydrated. I was about to knock on the door of a lovely home with a beautiful garden and ask for water. But getting closer, I could see they had put a water fountain near their front gate with a sign welcoming pilgrims to use what water they needed. I could have cried I was so happy and thankful to these thoughtful people. Once again ‘the Camino provides’ as I was told it would.
On day 10, the walk between San Domingo and Belgardo, was the only day that I became lost. Due to excessively loud snoring in the *albergue, I decided to leave in the dark at about 4.30 am, Walking behind a fellow pilgrim, we headed out of town in complete darkness. Somewhere along the way, we managed to miss a signmarker, and after we had walked about 5ks we realised we were lost pilgrims, and worse still, we couldn’t find our way back to the path. Eventually Camino angels in the form of three police officers came along and pointed us in the right direction. Once again I found that ‘the Camino provides’.
Change of plan -Walking Alone
From Day one it became clear to me that Nadine and I had different ideas on the way we expected our Camino experience to be. I’m not sure why this didn’t come out in all our discussions of our expectations pre Camino. My plan and intention was to walk as though I was on a challenge. I did see The Camino as a challenge to be met. Nadine’s intention was to stop along the way to smell the roses. She didn’t mind if she went part way by bus to make up time. I intended to walk everyone of those 1000+ kilometres. By the way there is nothing at all wrong with either approach. There are many and varied ways of walking the Camino.
For the first couple of weeks we walked together occasionally. We would meet up at the end of the day, staying together in the allergies and spending time together in the evening. But this soon became difficult as we would have to agree in the mornings, on a place that would be our overnight stop. We agreed to go our separate ways and catch up when we could. From then, I was walking alone and I loved every moment of this solitary time.
I wrote the following in a blog post on day two:
“After three years in the planning, the first steps of my 1000 kilometre pilgrimage have been taken. I can’t help wondering if there is some underlying reason, not yet discovered, that I am doing this pilgrimage walk. It is said that everyone has their own reason. Some know it at the start, some discover it along the way. But whatever the reason it will become clear, by the time that last step is taken into Santiago de Composta. So the Camino myth goes.
For me, I have no idea of any deeply meaningful or spiritual reason for deciding to fly more than 16000 kilometres to undertake this walk. As far as I am concerned, my reason for walking 1000k from The south of France, and across Spain to the waters edge is simple. Fitness. I am doing this walk for fitness, & to challenge myself a little. But at the same time I will be keeping my mind open and ready to accept any lightbulb moments that come to me along the way”.
An albergue is the basic accommodation system for Pilgrims across Spain. There are council and church operated albergues which can be staffed by council employees, members of the church and volunteers. There are also private albergues, operated by private citizens. The albergues operated by council are considered to be the official albergues and are very inexpensive. Occasionally pilgrims can stay there for just a donation.
I have heard many negative stories about the council run albergues but didn’t experience anything negative at all. I found them all to be very clean and well run. The albergue I enjoyed the least was the one that housed 86 pilgrims in one large room with beds pushed together as you can see in the photo. There was a man sleeping in the bed alongside me. He was a nice man, but it gave me the creeps a bit, as I felt as though we were sleeping in a double bed. I didn’t sleep well that night and left very early the next morning.
I stayed in four private albergues, just to get a break from the dormitory style accommodation. Most private albergues have only about four people to a room and to a bathroom. They have to follow the same rules as the public albergues. All albergues have to have the doors locked by 10pm so pilgrims can get their rest. It’s possible to book ahead for a private albergue but not for the public albergues. They are on a first in gets a bed basis.
I have no complaints at all about either style of albergue. It was always interesting, while walking, to ponder the style of albergue that would be available that night. Only holders of pilgrim passports can stay in an albergue, as they are intended to be for pilgrims only. The passport must be produced on arrival, where it is stamped. Some albergues also provide basic meals for pigrims or kitchen facilities where pilgrims can cook their own meals.
Have you walked the Cami o de Santiago? I love it when you comment and promise to reply to all comments.