A sit down and linger ambiance, simple but delicious food, and reasonable pricingthats a rare combo in Manhattan. Its the reason this sleeper is always packed, drawing an under-40 boho crowd who lounge in a warren of artfully distressed-looking rooms (rough wood tables, mottled gray walls, beamed ceilings), chowing down on such Greek classics as grilled octopus, savory spreads with pita, and roast meats or whole fishthe latter big enough for two, slathered in a perfect lemon-olive oil sauce, and a steal at $25 (including a side). Two notes : Dont be confused by the awnings Chinese characters (a leftover from the previous tenant) and dont leave if you see a lineit moves quickly.

- Pauline Frommer