Theres Italian food and then theres Italian American food. And for decades the latter version was looked down on as being, well, a bit déclassé. No more. This proudly old-fashioned red sauce joint does such a superb job with the canon of Italian American stapleschicken parmigiana, sausage and peppers, baked zitithat you come away feeling like youve experienced something brand new (and very satisfying). And all in a cute, checkered-tablecloth restaurant that will bring you back, in spirit, to 1950s NYC. This roomy, uptown outlet is sister to the original down in Little Italy.