A destination restaurant, Red Rooster is the only reason many well-heeled New Yorkers ever come to Harlem. Three words why: Chef Marcus Samuelsson (also of Aquavit, he won Top Chef: Masters in 2012). So is it all that? Im on the fence. Yes, it has a wonderful atmosphere (its one of the few truly multiracial social scenes in the city), a hopping bar, live music in the basement, and a handsome decor. Most of the appetizerswhich, like the rest of the menu, range from Southern classics to African fare to Scandinavian cuisineare delish. But when it comes to the pricier main dishes Im inevitably disappointed, especially in the signature yard bird (fried chicken, very dry), and Helgas meatballs (too heavy). Since I once lived in the neighborhood for six months, I ate there half a dozen times, and eventually started making my meals entirely of appetizers. If you do the same, I think youll enjoy the place immensely.

- Pauline Frommer