How could I provide power and/or data coupling between train cars?

Power and Data

The classic solution to this for model trains is Digital Command Control (DCC). Basically, when you provide power over the rails, you also include a data signal riding on top of it. Each locomotive or car with a remote controlled function needs an electrical connection to the track and a modest microprocessor to decode DCC instructions. You can do something similar with LEGO trains, but it requires some customization.

For example, here's a modification that I made to one of my 9V motors to include a small microprocessor that controls the wheels instead of driving them directly:

This solution requires that you are using either 9V or 12V powered rails, and is also very expensive as it requires a number of motors that are no longer in production and are expensive on the secondary market.

Data Only

Assuming that you are just powering a few LED lights in your cars or perhaps a small unloading mechanism that is used infrequently, you can probably get away with using a small lipo or similar battery for your cars. In that case, you just need to figure out a way to get access to control data.

If you just need one way data, you could use a very basic RF receiver/transmitter pair (e.g. receiver, transmitter). This gets tricky to scale up, as you need a separate frequency and transmitter for each car, but could work with a small number of controlled cars.

The solution that I would probably use if I were trying to do this would be to put an ESP8266 in each car:

These parts are quite cheap ($2 - $5) USD, can consume very little power if programmed properly, and provide a ton of flexibility. They provide and 80 MHz CPU and connect to Wifi networks, so you can control everything from a computer if you'd like. They also provide plenty of I/O pins and are more than fast enough for PWM, so you can have fine-grained control of everything and integrate sensors into locomotives and cars if desired.


By using the Brickset list of polybags released by Lego in 2011, I think your bag may refer to the following: 30014-1: Police Helicopter.


How to fix a broken LEGO Star Wars Corellian Defender set

How to fix it depends on how broken it is - if you've got a few large sections that need to go back in it might be easier than if they have been broken down to the individual elements.

The first step is to ensure you still have the instructions - if not, they should be available on LEGO's site: Building Instructions and search for "75025" (there are two books so make sure you get both 1/2 and 2/2).

With the instructions to hand, you should then be able to work out what you need to remove to re-attach the parts that have come off - I find that taking a few additional elements off is often enough to add back the parts and I can then rebuild the additional elements.

In the worse case scenario you need to establish which step in the instructions best represents the bulk of the remaining model and then disassemble everything else back to that point.

Alternatively, invent a new ship with the pieces ;)


When I connect my Samantha Module to my NXT, the NXT shows the wrench icon

You can try http://thenxtstep.blogspot.com/2006/06/nxt-problems-post-problems-and.html Some of the info is a little old, but the site appears to be active.


Large Lego Ninjago package, no box and no instructions, many red and black pieces

Given the red quarter domes, I'm fairly certain the bricks are from this set:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=70615-1


If you have a brand new set, and a few parts are missing, you should definitely contact LEGO Customer Service, so they can send you the parts you are missing.

New sets with missing parts
We’re really sorry to hear that something was missing from your new LEGO® set. We do our best to make every set perfect and we take it very seriously when a faulty one sneaks through. Don’t worry though, we can send you the parts you need!
Please click “Missing Bricks” on the Bricks & Pieces section of our Customer Service site to order the part you need to finish your set.
If you can’t find what you’re looking for, make sure you include a complete description of the part (the part number provided in the inventory page at the back of the building instructions is useful) along with the set number. Once your part is on its way, we’ll send you a shipping confirmation email.
If you’ve lost some bricks over time, please remember to click “Buy Bricks” instead.
-- LEGO Customer Service FAQ

Just tell them the part numbers you are missing and they should send you the parts for free.


The first one is the 7674-1 V-19 Torrent.

And the second one is 7752-1 Count Dooku's Solar Sailer.


Help finding Star Wars set, 8x8 grey cone with white end

Based on the one picture that did come through, you have set 9490 - Droid Escape from 2012.


What's the best way to start an 8 year old on Lego Technic building?

The best way would definitely be to appeal to his already existing preferences and show him how LEGO Technic can integrate into that or even enhance that.

Does he like cars? Let's build a simple car with him, later add a steering system, and still later a motor for driving.

Does he like robots? Offer to build a robot, with gears to move the arms, legs, head, etc. These can be motorized later as well.

The same can be done with planes, boats, farm machinery, animals, almost anything he might fancy.

You mention Crazy Action Contraptions, you could sit down with him and build some of the models included. Along this process you'd be able to gauge his interests both by area (i.e. does he like the Speedster or the Grabber more) and by general attitude (does he even like the whole building, or is he just waiting for you to finish it so he can play, or does he even care about it at all).

As alluded to in the last sentence, you should be mentally prepared for the possibility that you might not be successful, as he might not be interested in the topic. Don't take this personally, we all have different interests and forcing things usually don't turn out well.

  just don't understand if there is a difference between so called original bricks and Lego Technic pieces

This sentence hints at your own inexperience regarding the subject, maybe in this case you can approach the topic as a common learning process, where you both venture out to explore the world of LEGO Technic. Alternatively, you could get familiar with the terminology, basic building techniques and principles so that you can coach him. Either approach is viable, they just require different attitudes and preparations - you can switch between them however, if the need arises.


Can you identify this Star Wars LEGO set?

The top and right parts are from the Ninjago Manta Ray Bomber.

The parts on the left are from the Star Wars Magazine Gift Y-Wing.

The panel at the bottom left is from Star Wars Death Star Final Duel (as per Syberion).


Please help identifying these parts, brown and dark grey base with light brown feet

These parts are from:

9491-1 : Geonosian Cannon


First, some notes:

LEGO Digital Designer cannot do 3D printing.
LDD won't get any new features any time soon, as it is no longer being updated.
LXF files contain no part meshes. They only contain information on how to assemble the parts. The actual part data is stored in binary files inside the various LIF files.
LDraw files are similarly structured like the LXF files.

So getting 3D mesh data out of LDD is tricky to say the least. I know of two techniques:

There is some software which will attempt to capture 3D mesh from memory. Caveats:

LDD optimizes the drawing by removing the faces of parts that are not visible.
This means the mesh you get out may be missing some things you might expect.

Convert to LDraw, and open in an LDraw compatible program that can export 3D meshes. This is probably your better option, but it also has some caveats:

If you are using a piece that your LDraw program does not have in the library, it will be missing.
If LDD does not know how to map a part to LDraw, it could also be missing.

I know some people have done some research  into directly converting LDD models directly into 3D mesh, by reverse engineering the file formats. I don't know of any complete tools that actually do this though.

Now for the next issue, once you have your 3D mesh into another program, is it good for printing? Even without knowing specifics, I doubt it. Modelling for 3D printing is a lot different from modelling from LEGO bricks. You would likely have to do a lot of work making the model printable. It would probably be quicker to make the model from scratch in the 3D modelling program directly.


How to program light sensor to follow moving light using NXT

If I were you, I'd make it this way:

The leader robot has a very bright light shining backwards, but not in a tight beam, rather a wide cone, so it can be seen from the back easily.

The follower robot has the light sensor facing forward, with a cowl around and in front of the sensor in order to narrow its sensing angle. In other words, the sensor is modified in such a way that it only picks up anything if the light source is directly in front of it, not to the sides. This will help filtering out background "noises" (ambient light and other light sources).

Then the follower robot runs this pseudocode:

while true // enter stopping condition here if required
  while light is visible // current light value is over a threshold - experiment with this value
    go forward some amount
  // if light is not visible the while loop exits and we need to find the light
  store current light level to variable FRONT
  rotate 10 degrees to the right // experiment with various values, maybe less is enough, maybe more is needed
  store current light level to variable RIGHT
  if RIGHT < FRONT // the light probably moved to the left
    rotate 20 degrees to the left // twice the amount in the previous turn
  // else the light probably moved to the right, where we are currently headed
  // so there is no need to rotate further, just continue with the next iteration,
  // checking if we see the light now

This way the follower will go after the leader while it is headed in the right way, but when the follower loses the leader, it stops and turns around to look for the light.

This method however has a drawback. If the follower is slower than the leader, it will be left behind during the "stop and look around" phases, but if the follower is faster, it will run into the leader from the back.

You could remedy this by giving the leader a bumper on the back connected to a push button (pressure sensor), and program the leader to only move forward when something (probably the follower) has pushed into its back bumper.

Let me know if you need additional help.


What is the name of this almost triangular shaped 3x5 Technic beam?

That piece is called a Triangel: http://brickset.com/parts/6010864
You can buy it from the Lego store (no direct link, but it is element id 6010864).


How To Deal With Hydrogen Peroxide After De-Yellowing?

After doing a simple search, it seems that the general consensus is, it's okay to pour the used amount down the drain.

Most of us get it.  The stuff's been sitting in your house taking up space, and because of the unfamiliarity with this chemical, you and environmentally conscious thinkers such as yourself, would never want to further harm our shared environment.

Bottom line: No new bubbles means no more potency, the green light to pour away.


Help separating a 6L stick with stop ring & 1x1 cone

Immerse the stuck assembly in soapy water, swoosh them around a bit, then try again. That should do the trick. It is okay to wiggle the piece a bit from side to side to try to loosen it up. Even ABS plastic LEGO pieces are somewhat flexible and they won't break if you flex them a bit.

If nothing else works you may have to resort to plyers. Use the kind that doesn't have ridges, so damage to the plastic remains minimal. Also, use shop gloves or something similar to make sure you have a good grip on the end that you are holding with your hand.

If you do resort to using pliers, try putting a wide rubber band between the pliers and the pieces to further reduce the damage to your bricks.


Can you identify what sets this partial build and bag of LEGO elements come from?

Welcome to Bricks.SE! The bag numbered 2 is from set 9494 Anakin’s Jedi Interceptor.

This is all based on the included Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with Light Bluish Gray Jedi Starfighter Pattern which only appears in this set (there is an older version of this piece but it is too old to have been included in the bag pictured, which LEGO didn’t start using until 2011).

The second picture contains a child’s own creation out of various pieces, including a Windscreen 6 x 6 x 3 Canopy Half Sphere with Dual 2 Fingers and SW Tie-Fighter Pattern.

This piece also comes only in one set, namely set 9492 TIE Fighter. Both sets are from 2012.


How much do bricks cost at the LEGO Store?

The most common way to buy bricks from LEGO stores is by filling up a PaB cup:

There are two sizes of cups and occasionally other containers that can be filled during certain promotions. The large cup is $15.99 USD and the small cup is $8.99 USD currently. This isn't advertized, but you can also buy bricks in the boxes that they are shipped to the store in. These are $100 USD.

LEGO stores also typically allow you to build your own custom Minifigs. These include legs, torso, head, headgear, and an accessory. These are currently 3 for $9.99 USD.


The Toa Mata from BIONICLE briefly appear in the film when Wyldstyle
  is talking to Emmet about the prophecy. So do Fabuland, 9448 Samurai
  Mech from Ninjago, 3189 Heartlake Stables from Friends, 8158 Speed
  Racer & Snake Oiler from Speed Racer, along with a few other themes.
  Some stopmotion videos created by fans on ReBrick were featured in the
  movie.

Brickipedia: The LEGO Movie

The car Emmet drives at the beginning of the movie is a slightly modified version of the 3177 Small Car.


What is this piece? 4x4 ring with studs, anyone have a clue for part #?

It's the face plate for a Lego watch. There's a couple different watches this particular piece could have come from, including this Darth Vader watch and this Luke Skywalker one. I'm unable to find an element or design ID for this part though.


What is the cheapest way to collect clone trooper minifigs?

I would say BrickLink... But it depends on how nitpicky you are, and what types of troopers you want. For example, if you're not trying to be ultra-canon with the Star Wars universe, you can just find the cheapest version of the Clone Trooper on BrickLink, and I'm sure you can find a decent price in a large quantity from a store.

Other than that, I would suggest Craigslist. Craigslist can be iffy, but if you live in a well populated area, it can be a great resource (provided you are cautious, of course). If you buy from people who are just trying to 'get rid of all this lego' you can usually get things for cheaper. Try not to buy from people who know what they talking about, because they are collectors and are trying to make a high profit.

To sum things up, your best bet is BrickLink. If you're not a stickler, I'm sure there are some ways to slightly reduce the cost.

Here's a good place to start:
92 New Clone Troopers 3.99 ea Definitely do some poking around, but this is one of the cheapest I could find if you want to buy large quantity of clone troopers. Obviously items that are 'used' will be cheaper, but the older troopers are more expensive, so the majority of cheap clones will be new.

I know this response was a bit rambly, so please let me know if there's anything I can clarify.


Brasso (yes, the metal polish) works wonders as far as removing print. Yes, you still have to rub it, but it won't damage or scratch the surface and it works fast. Just use a soft cloth, pour some Brasso on it and wipe away the print.

Also, pure Eucalyptus Oil works really well. It requires a bit of soaking, but it will remove the print wonderfully and it smells good to - unlike Brasso. Saturate a piece of cotton in Eucalyptus Oil, place it on the printed surface, let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe away the print. It may require a bit of rubbing too, but usually not much.

Hope this helps!...(c;


Is it possible to build Lego bricks with a makerbot replicator 3D print?

(fair warning: I work for a 3D printer company [Type A Machines])

I thought this cross-posting up on the RepRap forum would be useful here.

Summarizing that post:

It is possible to 3D print LEGO-compatible parts on desktop 3D printers, but with caveats:

The fit will likely never be as tight as real LEGOs. Those are tough tolerances to match. LEGO Corp are (I've heard) the masters of injection molded plastic.
The fit we achieved is not bad though, but to make it work you can't just print the holes at the exact diameter and just hope it works.
I did my models in CAD software and (CRUCIAL POINT) had to expand hole sizes by about 1/2mm to get the right fit.
I added 1mm chamfers to the holes as well.
I also widened the holes after printing with a 4.8mm drill bit. No power tools needed, just a few turns manually.

...but with those caveats, it's totally doable.  The holes I printed stuck quite nicely to the top of a standard LEGO 8x8 plate. Of course, it's crazy to try and print any standard LEGO/Technic brick. LEGO corp does that so much better than you ever will. The interesting thing is making custom pieces that you'll never see from LEGO. There are a lot of interesting 3D designs out there that - with the methods above - allow you to turn them into a LEGO component.


The LXF file contains the complete model as created with Lego Digital Designer (the Lego CAD tool from The Lego Company). The model usually doesn't require to have building steps as they are (always) automatically generated from the model.

For normal, non-Technic models, Lego Digital Designer (LDD) is able to create automated building instrutions. My experience with LDD and Technic models / MOCs is that you have good support for designing the completed model, but that for the generation of building instructions you're better off with other tools.

You can translate an existing LXF file into an LDraw model (file extension: .ldr), but for some exotic (read: Technic) parts, the translation of LDD parts and LDraw parts is either incomplete or has problems with part orientation. This means that you may have to do manual edits to your model in order to have an (almost) complete translation into LDraw file format. See e.g. this site for details.

One advantage of the LDraw format, is that you can define "building steps" and sub assemblies in the design, which makes the generation of complex building instructions easier.

A tool for creating building instructions from a LDraw model, is LPub3D. Otherwise I'd suggest using a Lego CAD tool such as LDCad.


EDIT:

Yes, pressing the button will affect the indicator and low battery alarm/shutdown.

From the official LEGO firmware:

#define   BATT_INDICATOR_HIGH           7500          //!< Battery indicator high [mV]
#define   BATT_INDICATOR_LOW            6200          //!< Battery indicator low [mV]

#define   ACCU_INDICATOR_HIGH           7500          //!< Rechargeable battery indicator high [mV]
#define   ACCU_INDICATOR_LOW            7100          //!< Rechargeable battery indicator low [mV]

...

#define   LOW_VOLTAGE_SHUTDOWN_TIME     10000         //!< Time from shutdown lower limit to shutdown [mS]

#define   BATT_WARNING_HIGH             6.2           //!< Battery voltage warning upper limit [V]
#define   BATT_WARNING_LOW              5.5           //!< Battery voltage warning lower limit [V]
#define   BATT_SHUTDOWN_HIGH            5.5           //!< Battery voltage shutdown upper limit [V]
#define   BATT_SHUTDOWN_LOW             4.5           //!< Battery voltage shutdown lower limit [V]

#define   ACCU_WARNING_HIGH             7.1           //!< Rechargeable battery voltage warning upper limit [V]
#define   ACCU_WARNING_LOW              6.5           //!< Rechargeable battery voltage warning lower limit [V]
#define   ACCU_SHUTDOWN_HIGH            6.5           //!< Rechargeable battery voltage shutdown upper limit [V]
#define   ACCU_SHUTDOWN_LOW             6.0           //!< Rechargeable battery voltage shutdown lower limit [V]

The BATT_* are used when the button is not pressed and the the ACCU_* values are used when the button is pressed.

ORIGINAL ANSWER:

The small black circle is used by the Li-ion battery pack from LEGO. This battery pack actually operates at a higher voltage that Alkaline batteries. On the other hand, NiMH batteries operate at a lower voltage than Alkaline, so pressing the small black circle would have the opposite effect of what you are hoping that it will do.


Will Duplo trains fit onto a regular 6 stud LEGO track?

For this experiment we're using the wheeled Duplo push and go motor block and red cabin from Set #10874.

The wheel width of the motor is the same width as a non motor base.

So, for this train to stay on the six stud track, the wheels need to sit either on the inside of the tracks or the outside of the tracks.

As the last picture shows, the wheels float on top of the tracks, which allows the train to slip off.

If this red train represents the standard width of most Duplo trains, then we can conclude that a Duplo train will not fit on a six-stud gauge LEGO track and roll freely without derailing.

UPDATE: Just getting our digital groove on.


Mounting 'shelves' on a 57518 Lego conveyor belt

The picture you have does show a 57518 thread link, which is what you wanted to use.  For that, you can use the 1/2 and 3/4 pins to attach a liftarm.  A 1x5 liftarm would match the width of the 57518 thread.  What's shown in the picture is a 1x7 liftarm which allows the module to lift more balls.
For the pins, you should use the 3/4 pins part 32002 to be perfectly legal, but some might also use the 1/2 pins part 4274 to add friction to the connection.


Power for LEGO Creator Expert Roller Coaster (10261)

Yes, Powered Up is the replacement for Power Functions. However, Powered Up requires a smart device (smartphone/tablet) to control the hubs.
Used Power Functions parts are also available for sale on sites such as Bricklink, Brick Owl and Ebay.


Do we need WiFi Dongle to install Scratch on EV3

No. Bluetooth on the computer you are using is necessary but you don't need a wifi dongle for either your computer or the ev3. If you are using the EV3+Scratch extension on scratchx.org, all you need is the scratch x plugin and a computer with Bluetooth (or a bluetooth dongle).

Here is a good article about how to set everything up.


What is a good third party battery box and receiver?

As you have mentioned, there is BuWizz and SBrick which, while primarily are intended to work with smartphones, are said to be able to work with joysticks or gamepads, albeit possibly with bugs.

I don't really see why would your age mean that you can't do modding, but assuming you have budget restrains or parents who would not allow it then these are valid reasons. Anyways, I'm sure you have your own reasons, just don't underestimate your abilities just because of your age.

There is of course the new Powered Up system from Lego, on the right side of this image you'll see the controller and the motors currently in use:

Drawback: There are no servo motors available for it yet, so you can't fully control the 4x4 crawler without extensive modifications to either

use a second motor for steering or
settle for a tank-style drive with a separate channel and motor for the left and right wheels.

Another third party solution I have managed to find is the CADA controller. The main selling point is exactly what you are asking for:

  The most interesting feature is indeed dedicated controller, unlike buwizz/sbrick there is no need for smart phone.

According to one reviewer:

  The range is limited to 10-12 meters

so it should yield better results as the PF infrared remote.


What LEGO pieces have "real-world" functionality?

All Aboard!

I'd like to add my all-time favorite LEGO piece:

x870cc02, THE BLACK WHISTLE!

The white brick is a microphone. Attach it to your train's motor and BLOW THAT WHISTLE!  Depending on how short (or LONG!) your whistling was, the train would go forwards or backwards.

Real-world use: Not only did it drive your train round the bend, but your parents too...!


How can EV3 Gyro sensor drift be handled?

There are two options that I can think of.

Do the "hardware" fix before every run of the robot to reboot the sensor along with the "software" fix to zero it.
Don't use the Angle reading at all. To calibrate the sensor, sample the rate (d/s) 10 times or so and take the average to get the "at rest" rate offset and store it in a variable. Subtract this variable from the rate returned by the sensor to get the actual rate. Integrate the rate over time to calculate the angle. (I haven't actually attempted this myself, but this is how you use, for example, the HiTechnic Gyro sensor since it does not provide an angle).


Difference between gyro sensor and compass sensor

I haven't personally used the HiTechnic sensors, but the difference between a gyroscope and a compass is that one measures absolute orientation and the other measures change in orientation.

The compass measures absolute orientation via a magnetometer that measures the effect of the Earth's magnetic field on the sensor. The gyro sensor uses some form of MEMS to detect changes in orientation. The compass also only works in two dimensions, while the gyro likely operates in all three dimensions of orientation.

You might also be interested in this answer from electronics.se which includes more detail than mine and also compares accelerometers to compasses and gyros.


Why do official LEGO PDF instruction books have such poor quality?

Mσᶎ' comment has dealt with the technical reasons quite eloquently, and I'd guess Mσᶎ' analysis is likely correct.

However, I suggest that we can dig a little deeper to guess why the process hasn't been fixed.

Disclaimer: the following is pure speculation. I don't work for TLG (I wish!) and have no special knowledge or insight into the company or its policies.

A Revealing Question

In my mind, the important question is why the instructions are published as PDFs at all? Whilst LEGO is a passion for the fans, it is also a business. The PDF instructions are provided as a free service to TLG customers: they receive no direct financial benefit from the publication of their instruction books.

So, why do they bother? Presumably for indirect business benefits. Things like:

The hope that customers will buy bricks / sets to make up sets they don't own
Easier to deal with customer enquiries regarding lost instructions
Customer good will

Costs and Benefits

Assuming this is the case, we can speculate that TLG have not invested in better PDF instructions because they don't consider the additional benefits will be covered by the cost of improving the quality.

Do many people really purchase bricks based on these instructions? I doubt it.
The poor quality PDF instructions are probably good enough for customer enquiry purposes, or at least TLG may perceive that it is.
TLG may perceive that customers in general don't care about the instructions quality - the few of us who do may not provide sufficient incentive to improve things.

The bottom line is that these instructions are provided on a goodwill basis. Unless TLG receive incentive to improve them, they probably won't.

A Call to Action

So, if you really care about the instructions, what can you do?

I suggest that it might be worth contacting TLG's customer services. If they get enough complaints, they may consider making improvements. Alternatively, they may consider it worthwhile providing a paid service for obtaining better quality copies of instructions.


In LEGO: How to build a revolving magazine rack for 2x3 tiles?

I suggest using 4175 1x2 plate with ladder together with 3839 1x2 plate with handles SNOTted together with the help of 4070 1x1 brick with headlight, one 2x2 plate and 2 1x2 plates, like so:

Yes, the whole thing is upside-down. This is normal.
This contraption will hold the 2x3 tile snugly, thanks to the offset provided by the lip of the headlight brick. The handle plate will prevent the tile from sliding to the sides while allowing the tile to wiggle a bit. This can be seen in this top view:

Build a few of those, and place them on top of each other in a ladder-like manner, like so:

Add an upside-down 2x6 plate with a 3937 1x2 hinge brick base plus 3938 1x2 hinge brick top, so the entire structure hangs, like so:

...add a column to the center of the 2x6 plate, and the rest is pretty much symmetrical. It might be possible to attach extra hinged plates at the base of the structure for extra stability.
Unfortunately, this design is somewhat bulky. I cannot think (right now) of any other slanted-SNOT design that is more compact. On the plus side, this slanted design offers perfect functionality when getting tiles in/out of the racks.
If you want more than one 2x3 tile per rack, or a looser fit, try getting rid of the headlight bricks, rotating the handle plates 90°.

EDIT: I've been fiddling a bit with your suggestions of 98397 Utensil handlebars and space skeleton arm... just to remember about the existence of other arm pieces like 93061 Arm Skeleton, Bent with Clips at 90 degrees. Together with some 85861 1x1 plate round with open stud, 63965 Bar 6L and 4032 2x2 plate round, it's possible to do something like:

However, I'm not entirely sure if the bent skeleton arms will have enough grip. If they do not, some of the handlebar pieces might drop, and individual racks might rotate out of place.
Note that I'm using four bars there - using one bar doesn't provide enough room, and the individual racks would collide with each other. Hence the 1x1 round hollow plates.


Can I download ldraw instructions from Lego Digital Designer?

Note that LEGO Digital Designer can also show you building steps, but the results have been known to be a little odd.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here:

Can I export models from LEGO Digital Designer as LDraw files?

Yes, although you will probably need to update the LDraw.xml file that LDD uses to export the parts. Once you've completed your model, chose File | Export and set the "Save as type" to (LDraw-Files (*.ldr)" you should then be able to open the file in MLCad, LEGO Instruction Creator or similar and generate your steps.

Where can I download simple LDD models from?

There is LEGO's own LEGO Digital Designer Gallery (currently being upgraded, so this is an archived instance) - each model has a "Download" link under it to download the .lxf. Other locations are probably available as well.


Ain't no mountain high enough... - what is the tallest LEGO piece?

No restrictions on the materials.

Well then, probably a component to the old wooden furniture LEGO used to produce, like these:

5003483 - 3-Seat Playtable Creative Play Station Center Pack Duplo

Or the similarly designed 4509g - 3-Seat Playtable, 5004063 - 3-Seat Playtable, or 5003468 - 3-Seat Playtable Creative Play Station Center Pack.

IF-LTW2C - Activity Table and Chair Set

They did require some assembly, so I'm not sure if any parts stood up on their own, but you could probably balance a table leg for example.


What is different between the EV3 Home and Educational sets?

Both sets include an EV3 intelligent brick.

Hardware

The Retail (Home) edition (set 31313) includes:

2 large motors, 1 small
1 touch, 1 color, 1 infrared proximity , 1 remote IR beacon

The Education set includes:

2 large motors, 1 small
2 touch, 1 color, 1 Ultrasonic with red LED, 1 Gyro
1 rechargeable battery (battery charger sold separately)

Software

The software for the education version is sold separately to the core set. As well as the programming software, includes datalogging tools, and a firmware version that allows on-brick datalogging.

There is also a difference regarding sensor support: only the education version provide blocks to manage ultrasonic and gyro sensors included in that version. NXT temperature sensor and Energy meter are supported too. And of course, models being different between edu and retail versions, the building instructions that are included in the software are different.

Robots

Each edition includes different Technic bricks and instructions for different robots. You can find a list of those robots at the LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Comparison project, and product pictures on Robot Square.

Parts

The EV3 Expansion Set adds many Technic bricks for even more robots and is suitable as an upgrade for both sets. However, to build all robots officially published by LEGO for either set you need to buy additional parts in any case.

The LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Comparison project on GitHub lists all parts in a spread sheet, tells you which pieces are missing from "education + expansion" to "retail + expansion" and vice-versa, so you can find out which parts (numbers + names) to order in addition.


Which Duplo bricks have practical uses in System building?

Check out these links:

this MOC uses a Duplo Ladybug Base.
this modern classic uses a Duplo piece as a major element.


Do you use the plastic buckets for purposes other than organizing your bricks?

Well the buckets themselves have value.
If you can't use them you could sell them to people who want them.

Your example set #5560 has an original box only listing on BrickLink, as do many other of the brick boxes, run a search for "brick box" you'll find lots.

The prices vary from a few dollars, to ~$20 for you example. They don't seem to be big sellers, but there are some sales.

If you have a lot of them and/or you want them gone quicker set up an eBay listing for all of them.


What is the Mindstorms NXT Education kit?

There is an educational version. It is set number 9797.
The NXT 2.0 set is set 8547.
Both come with:

1 - NXT brick
3 - Motors
1 - Ultrasonic range sensor
2 - Touch sensors
1 - 20 cm cable
4 - 35 cm cable
2 - 50 cm cable

The NXT 2.0 has some things the education set does not:

1 - color sensor
1 - Test Mat
Software (The education software is sold separately! from the educational set)

The education set has some things the NXT2.0 set does not:

1 - Light sensor
1 - Sound Sensor
1 - Rechargeable battery module
1 - AC adapter for rechargeable battery module
3 - Converter cables suitable for use with original Mindstorms accessories or 9V Technic motors and light bricks
2 - 9V Technic light bricks
1 - Durable storage system

The two sets also come with different assortments of pieces, with the educational one contained fewer total pieces, with more that would integrate with original Mindstorms or Technic kits.
The education kit is designed to used in conjunction with an existing parts collection,
or with an Educational resource kit, basically bulk parts. Two such kits exist. Both come in a storage system much like the educational kit.
Set 9648 contains an assortment of traditional Technic style parts with a slight emphasis on the studless beams, but still containing many studded components.
Set 9695 is newer and has more parts, with a strong emphasis on studless design. Relatively few parts have studs.


There are no set limits for the quantity of bricks you can place in LEGO Digital Designer. The limit on the amount of pieces you can use is entirely dependent on the specifications of your computer.

You may find performance will be affected not only by the quantity of bricks placed, but the complexity of the geometry used. Metallic and transparent coloured bricks will also require more intense processing to render.

In LDD, under preferences you can also disable high-quality rendering of bricks in the scene view and bricks palette, reduce the complexity of shading, remove brick outlines or increase the compatibility mode to improve the performance.

Consider splitting large models into smaller files and edit them separately. (i.e. a file for each deck of a ship or each building).

Avoid running other applications at the same time as LDD that will take up more resources.

Experiment

Just to test the limits, I reduced the rendering settings completely, and started LDD in compatibility mode. I duplicated a 1x1 tile brick many times, and continued to duplicate them over and over. I managed to have approximately 30,000 bricks saved on my clipboard before it crashed.

I tried again, this time duplicating a stack of 6000 bricks many times, I continued until I reached 100,000 bricks. At this point the program was running very slowly and used up to 861MB of memory, I could have continued but I didn't see any point in doing so.


How to MOC the Rough Terrain Crane 42082

There are building instructions in this video of a fully motorized version: https://youtu.be/mmKw_GBFGs0

And here is a demonstration by the same builder how it all works: https://youtu.be/RzBaDTpG2Ss


What kind of plastic are LEGO bricks made of?

Actually, it depends on the part.

Most parts are indeed ABS as it's a very sturdy plastic, but sometimes it's not suitable, or downright impossible to use. I've seen a presentation on quality issues given by a LEGO employee in LEGOworld a few years back, and as far as I remember there were between 10 and 20 sorts of plastic in use. The ones I remember are:

ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) for most regular bricks
PC (polycarbonate) for transparent bricks, as ABS can't be made transparent. Polycarbonate parts on the other hand have too much friction when in contact with other polycarbonate parts, making them extremely hard to disassemble. LEGO designers are forbidden to have some PC parts put together in models.
Rubber for tires and rubbery things - that's kinda obvious
A less sturdy plastic (can't remember the name) for parts which are more subject to being bent, for example studless technic beams.
As of  2018 plant elements will be made from a polythylene sourced from sugar cane.

And the list goes on. I know the presentation hadn't been made public, but some people took pictures, so if I ever find it back I'll add a link.

EDIT: still can't find it, but I know it was given at LEGOworld in 2006 by Bjarke Schønwandt who was Global Quality Manager at LEGO at the time (he may still be, I have no idea).


How many and what kind of batteries are needed for LEGO Powered Up?

The current line of Powered Up components uses AAA batteries. The Powered Up team has indicated that both regular or rechargeable batteries should work fine.

You will need 10 AAA batteries to control one train with the included remote, or 6 if you are using a smart device as your remote. Here's the battery layout shown in the instructions:


You can buy LEGO in bulk at any official LEGO store. It is called the PAB (Pick-A-Brick) Wall. They will sell them to you buy the cup, or if you need really large quantities, you can also ask them for full boxes. Keep in mind that the selection changes seasonally, and you will not be the only seller who buys parts this way, so there will be competition.

Other than that, your only other option is to take advantage of sales at retail stores. Right before Christmas is an excellent time to stock up as many stores have great deals. Also, right after Christmas when stores are clearing out last year's stock to give room to new sets (LEGO always releases a whole range of new sets in January).

LEGO does not sell parts in large bulks to individuals, unless you become an official LEGO Certified Professional. However these people get access to huge amounts of LEGO not because of reselling the pieces, but because they are creating art. In general LEGO does not like resellers and will not support them in any way. You will have to find your own resources/angle if you want to get into the business.


Problem With Bionicle Joint Sockets Cracking, Repair Options?

The socket joints from around 2008-2010 were poorly designed. They were both too thin and too tight, so cracking was a very common problem.

Because the issue is the shape of the part, super glue doesn't do much. I tested it out on of my broken joints and the parts cracked again the first time I connected it. So don't bother with that.

What may help is sanding the inside of the socket's prongs down to make it less tight during insertion. I tested this out on a few of my sockets. Sanded sockets took 100 insertions without cracking while the ones that weren't broke after 20-30. However, I've also heard that the 2008 joints crack after sitting too long in a connected state, which sanding may not prevent.


On Lego Mindstorms EV3, is there a way to change the input parameters of a My Block?

Unfortunately, there is no way to add a parameter to an existing MyBlock in both the NXT and EV3 series. You will have to create a new one with more input parameters.


It's Harry Potter set 75947 (Buckbeak's rescue).


How to make a conveyor belt with LEGO parts?

You will need to decide between 3711 Technic Chain Link and 3873 Technic Chain Tread, or possibly use them together.

Each link of chain is about 1 cm long and 0.8 cm wide

 and you can get them in packs of 108 (Chain Link Set Product Code: 2000645)

The Chain Tread are wider,

but seem to be available only in smaller packs, such as
Set # 9938-1: Conveyor Belt Links (Nominally 36 links)
Set # 1149-2: Bulldozer Chainlinks  (nominally 52 links)


Can you identify the large transparent windows in this Ideas submission?

I believe this is Panel 6 x 6 x 9 Curved Top.

I couldn't find the other one that's containing the brown parrots, however.

Correct me if I'm wrong, because there were a few other parts like this which were almost identical.


How many pneumatic actuators does one air tank support

An air tank (at least LEGO low capacity ones) are not meant to directly supply actuators. Their main purpose is to smooth out the pressure of air flow produced by a pump (manual or motorized).


Can I identify the colour of objects 5mm in diamater with an EV3 Colour sensor?

You may try to use the color sensor in RGB mode using a 3rd party block found here: http://mindcuber.com/mindcub3r/mindcub3r.html#ColorSensorRGBBlock
With this block you get a set of three 0-255 values, one for each R G B color. It will still be tricky to correctly classify the color of your objects as the readings are noisy - you can try to set ranges to each RGB value with or w/o normalization - but at least you have some data to work with.


Can Power Functions components work with the RCX?

The RCX uses "electric system 9V" style connectors. These are not compatible with power functions connectors. The "electric system 9V" connectors have the connections built into regular lego studs (with the electric part of each stud carefully arranged to allow connections to be made between parts placed at right angles) while the power functions connectors have a special connector section that is not compatible with regular lego studs in any way.

As the other answer mentions the power functions extension cables (8886 for regular length, 8871 for extra-long) can be used as an adapter between "power functions" and "electric system 9V". This cable has two different connectors, one end is a regular power functions connector with "power functions" connections on the top and bottom. The other end is a special connector with "power functions" connections on the top but "electric system 9V" connections on the bottom.

There are a few caveats though.

The power functions only end of the extension cable can be a bit of a pain to mount, because the electrical positions won't stack on top of regular lego studs.
The RCX has a 1-plate high step next to the motor ports. This was not a problem for electric system 9V wires which had the wire exit near the top of the brick but the power functions connectors have a much larger cable exit lump. This means that the power functions adapter cable can't be placed on a RCX in the normal orientation. For the side motor ports you can exit sideways, but for the center motor port you either have to exit over the screen, use an "electric system 9V" cable between the RCX and the adapter cable (so now you have three sections of cable to deal with....) or use a 1x2 electric plate (part 4755) to build-up the connector on the RCX.
"Power functions" is a 4-wire system while "electric system 9" is only two wire. So while you can use basic power functions motors with the adapter cable things like the servo motor will not work and you can't supply power to things like the IR receiver from an "electric system 9V source.
For smaller models actually building your model may be a pain because of the extra wire length from the adapter and because the RCX was designed with old-style technic in mind while power functions was designed with new-style technic in mind.

As for connecting multiple motors you can do so physically but if the motors are under heavy load you may hit the current limits in the motor drivers, heck even a single "RC race buggy motor" can overload the drivers in the RCX.


Where can I find a good tutorial on programming with Lejos?

The makers of LeJOS maintain a blog on WordPress: https://lejosnews.wordpress.com/ where they also give tips and write howto's. I think that is the best place to get started, apart perhaps from the LeJOS.org wiki pages which are located here: https://sourceforge.net/p/lejos/wiki/Home/.

Those wiki pages tend to have some inconsistencies between versions (some of it is not yet updated to the latest version of LeJOS EV3) but when I got started with LeJOS 2 years ago I found it quite easy to get going using those pages.

Of course, all of these pages assume you understand how to write programs in Java - otherwise you'd need to look for a Java tutorial, like the ones published by Oracle at https://docs.oracle.com/javase/tutorial/.


What you have there is a 6118 Wheel Hard Plastic Small (22mm D. x 24mm), and this wheel is pretty common, it features in 39 sets, but luckily for you only in 4 sets in the color White. These sets are:

1704-1  Ice Planet Satellite Plow - this set has 6 of these wheels.

6983-1 Ice Station Odyssey - this set has 10 of these wheels.

6814-1 Ice Tunnelator - this set has 4 of these wheels.

6898-1 Ice-Sat V - this set has 8 of these wheels.

If you count the number of wheels you have, you should be able to deduce which set they came from as each set has a different number of wheels.


Is the LEGO Racers 1 game available for free now?

It's "abandon ware", however the game is still under copyright, so you cannot legally obtain a copy of it. However if the owner of the IP (LEGO) doesn't care enough to enforce the copyright, the chance you will be sued or fined is close to zero.

Something else you need to consider: There is no guarantee that the game you download from an abandon ware website is unmodified. It might contain malicious code, compromising the security of your system.


Where can I buy older sets, such as the 10187 VW Beetle?

Assaf, please note that this is not part of LEGO's website. StackExchange doesn't sell LEGO sets. In regards to your question, you are right; the #10187 LEGO Volkswagen Beetle is no longer available directly from LEGO. It was a set that was released back in 2008.

LEGO usually keeps sets on the market for a couple of years, sometimes a bit longer if they are very popular. The VW Bettle has been retired quite a while ago, and as you have seen, it is only available on the secondary market.

Besides checking on eBay as you have already done, you can also check on Bricklink. Prices are high, but occassionally someone may sell one for less if the set is used, missing the box, etc. Here is the link to the current listings: #10187 Volkswagen Bettle

LEGO usually doesn't re-release a set, but sometimes may come up with a model similar to the earlier release with improvements. I don't know if this interests you, but currently LEGO sells the VW Camper, which is an absolutely deligthful set. See here: #10220 Volkswagen T-1 Camper Van


Publishing instructions for MOC based on Lego Technic set

I think the key here is if you are trying to profit from it.  If you are doing this as a hobby, aka for fun, you have nothing to worry about.  If you are trying to sell the model and/or instructions, then you risk a friendly "Cease and Desist" letter from the Lego Group.

Here is a paragraph from their "Fair Play Brochure":

"For this reason, certain guidelines have
been developed to outline the proper
use of the LEGO Group’s trademarks and
copyrighted material for non-commercial
purposes in domain names and websites.
The LEGO Group’s trademarks and
copyrighted material may NEVER be
used by unrelated third parties for their
own commercial or marketing purposes,
unless formal permission or a written
licence has been granted by the LEGO
Group."

Fair Play Brochure: https://www.lego.com/cdn/cs/legal/assets/blt1a4c9a959ce8e1cb/FairPlayBrochure.pdf


A cheese slope resembles a chunk of cheese from a cheese wheel. They happen to also be the perfect size for minifigures to interact with:

‘Lego Cheese Farm’  by AIatariel, http://www.flickr.com/photos/alatariel1181/10582728886/


These are the Blocked Open Stud variants of

Part # 2453a : Brick 1 x 1 x 5 - Blocked Open Stud or Hollow Stud

and

Part # 2454 : Brick 1 x 2 x 5 - Blocked Open Studs or Hollow Studs


Is it worth parting out a set to sell without the minifigs?

Not having the minifigs certainly hurts the value of a set, but it may still be worth parting out the set depending on how valuable your time is to you.

If you haven't already done so, you can use the Price Guide feature on Bricklink to get a rough idea of what your set can sell for.

You can also browse the current listings for the set to get an idea of how much missing minifigs hurt the price. For that set, it looks like not having minifigs knocks off about 40% of the value of the set ($24 USD vs $42 USD).


Is code written for NXT bricks compatible with EV3 brick (for Johnny 5 building)?

I would advise the EV3 retail version. An NXT costs more than it should because it is getting difficult to find. You can buy additional motors and sensors separately in an official LEGO store or order them from the S@H website. The EV3 education kit cost more than it should because it's "educational". You will not need to modify the Johnny 5 build much to accommodate for the different motors sensor and intelligent brick.
No, but you'll be able to view the NXT code in the new software and it shouldn't be to hard to reproduce the EV3 equivalent. The code blocks are similar.
There is a new ultrasonic sensor (45504) just for the EV3 brick. It's sold as part of the educational kit but you can also buy it separately (which is in my opinion more cost effective). I suppose you could also modify the code to work with the EV3 IR sensor, but range and precision are significantly poorer for distance sensing. However with the IR, you can set it up to track the IR beacon, or you could use it as a remote control.


Can't open the page to enter my LEGO Advent Calendar code

Thanks for getting in touch with us.

  We're sorry about the frustration you must be feeling. Unfortunately
  there was a misprint on the packaging. The real website to enter the
  codes is www.starwars.lego.com.

  When you get to the site in the middle of the page is a place for you
  to enter in the codes. I hope this helped.

  Thanks again for getting in touch. We're always pleased to receive
  feedback from LEGO fans! If you could take a moment to complete a four
  question survey by going to the link below, it will help us make sure
  we are providing the best customer service to you.

  http://www.econsumeraffairs.com/lsi/ensurvey.html?F1=032315854A

  Please let us know if you need anything else.

  Happy building!

  Arianne K LEGO Consumer Services


How to include submodel into main model in LeoCAD?

I have now figured out that you can include submodels the same way as normal parts. In LeoCAD, go to the parts panel where you can select a category ("All Parts", "Parts in Use", ...), scroll to the very bottom and select "Models". Then you can select your submodels and incorporate them.

(For some reason, my submodels still don't show properly in LPub3D, but I guess that is a separate question.)


Looks like total number of parts and sum of them differs on bricklink

Brickset says 602 elements, brickset takes its data from Lego Customer Services.

Bricklink says 603 elements, bricklink count includes a stickersheet while brickset does not. To get the bricklink total, select "Part out" on the catalog page, it will suggest to add 603 pieces to a "wanted list".

Adding the number of elements in the back of the manual I get also 602 elements.
Going through the instructions and adding all element counts I get 598, this certainly does not include any spare parts, so about 4 spare parts seems right.

Conclusion, your set is lacking elements or you miscounted.
I think easiest would be to group by element and count and see if those counts match the brickset or bricklink list or the back of the manual inventory.
Plus side will be you have everything sorted and you'll know exactly what pieces are missing.


Welcome. This is 57518 Technic, Link Tread Wide with Two Pin Holes.


XL (8882):

It delivers a maximum torque of 90,4 mNm (600 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 220 rotations per minute.

L (88003):

It delivers a maximum torque of 45,4 mNm (450 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.

M (8883):

It delivers a maximum torque of 40 mNm (300 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.


Looking for instructions to Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" sets

The instructions for the set you are looking for can be found here:

https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9375.pdf

Here are some instructions for some other sets from that series:

https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9392.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9391.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9374.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9371.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9344.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9343.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9341.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9331.pdf

For whatever reason, the availability of instructions for these sets is inconsistent.


1: two pieces from sets like 6919 - the sticker is magnetic, and fits on 30213 to make 30213pb01
2: an Insectoids torso - 973pb0037
3: an Insectoid head - 3626bpx31
4: might be a Harold Potter head - 3626bpb0155 from set 4711
5: seems to be an Insectoid helmet - 30214


Post an auction on ebay, and let the buyers determine the worth.  Include a lot of pictures of what is in the lot, so buyers know what they are getting.  If you go random, the most folks will pay is what it is worth with all low valued pieces.

If you want to make more money, sort the Lego out, and see if you can complete sets.  For some sets the complete set will sell for more than the individual pieces, for other sets the individual pieces will sell for more.

If you want to maximize profit do some research on sites like ebay, bricklink, brickowl and see what the parts you have are selling for.  If not, then just post it as you described it here, as an auction on eBay, and see if anyone bids.


Is it possible to build simple logic gates with LEGO mechanics?

Various people have done this - however most of the links seem to point to a [then defunct] blog by Martin Howard (Randomwraith) from 2004.

A more recent, and available, post on this, using newer pieces can be seen here:

  LEGO Logic by Keshav Saharia

Based on a lack of gears and rack and pinion elements, Keshav decided to rebuild the logic gates using an approach based around levers. Extra care was taken to ensure that the movements were uniform so that the outputs moved the same distance as the inputs.

Starting with the simplest gate, a NOT Gate was built:

Then going back to first principles, a NOR Gate:

Combining a NOR with two NOTs gives an AND Gate:

Finally Keshav built the XOR Gate out of 3 NORs and 2 NOTs (or 2 NORs and an AND):

All images used with permission


What about Power Functions motor, S size?

Only in 2012 the L-motor was released. The M and XL motors where released in 2007. That is a gap of 5 years where people were even more confused about the size options...

Anyway, no smaller motor with power functions

However if you are willing to go with the 9V system (possibly with conversion cables), there's the mini and micro motor, standard motor is also a bit smaller in length.

More info here:
http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm


How many mystery collectiable minifig bags to buy to get them all?

16 Bags

I know the question was phrased as a sort of math problem, but most LEGO fans solve it as a sort of LEGO problem. The bags are opaque, so you cannot see what's in the bags, but almost everywhere they are sold you can feel the bags, and you can determine what figure is in the bag. With the exception of the recent Soccer Team figures, collectible minifigures are always unique in terms of what parts are in the bag. Just shake and squeeze the bag until the distinctive piece is found.

The problem with the math way: One can compute the probability of, say, picking two matching socks out of a drawer of miscellaneous socks, or of picking a whole collection of figures out of a box of figures. But there are a few complications:

Someone else has been there before you and squeezed the bags to find all the space marines.
Someone else has been there before you and grabbed a few at random, but then squeezed a few more bags to find the Princess.
The store takes what's left from the first box and jams it into the second box when the box runs low; or they don't even display them in the original box, making it impossible to know how many boxes are in play and how many figures have been picked.
There are usually 16 figures in a collection and 60 figures in a box; this means the figures cannot be evenly distributed. Some series have had as few as two of one figure in the box. Given that, it's entirely possible (though unlikely) to pick 58 figures and miss both of that elusive Unicorn Girl.

If squeezing the bags isn't an option, the only way to be sure is to buy a new, unopened box.


What different series are or have there been designed primarly for girls?

As you've seen, the LEGO Friends sets are the latest theme aimed primarily at girls, however there are a number of current, and even more historical themes.

Other themes have included:

The Powerpuff Girls (2018 - ) - Uses Minifigs with custom heads, based on the popular Powerpuff Girls license

Elves (2015 - 2018) - Uses Minidolls similar to the Friends sets and continues the pastel colour themes (as of December 2018 all sets listed in the LEGO store are "Retiring Soon").

"Disney Princesses" now just Disney (2014 - ) - The sets based around the Disney Princess licenses use Minidolls as well, with a similar colour palette to Elves and Friends.

Belville (1994 - 2008) - used many standard LEGO bricks, but the figures were much larger than Minifigures.

Clikits (2003 - 2006) - a range of jewellery that can be used with LEGO System elements.

Disney Princess (2012) - a sub-theme within DUPLO based on the popular Disney Princess range, featuring some of your favourite Disney characters.

Friends (2012) - based around the LEGO System elements, however the Mini-dolls are slightly larger than Minifigures.

Homemaker (1971 - 1974) - a very early theme based on LEGO system elements but before the minifigure

Paradisa (1992 - 1997) - a sub-theme of Town, using standard minifigs.

Scala (1979 - 1981, 1997 - 2001) - the original theme used LEGO System elements and was jewellery based, but the more recent theme bears very little resemblance to LEGO System elements, although some plates and other bricks are occasionally used.

Set/Box images from Brickset


I have seen one possible explanation posted in a comment in this question:
Why does the pin recess on the Technic turntable continue to the edge of the part?

User Joubarc states:

  Another good (if maybe more subtle) example of this is the pin joiner
  which now has a slot in the middle. That slot is similar to the recess
  seen in the other parts, in that it simplifies the moulding process
  greatly. (The previous version required two sub-parts to be assembled
  together, which is even worse than a mould with moving parts)

If this assertion is true, then the slot exists simply to streamline the molding process. If you look closely at the top-rim of 75535 in your example image, it is easy to make out a very fine line. Perhaps this is evidence of two sub-parts being assembled.


To figure out which party made a mistake, compare everyone's work with the official art displayed on the box.

Short answer: Go compare images against the box art.

Detailed answer:

First, let's investigate and try to understand what the OP is talking about with some build dependency in the wing area of Set #6205.

So, upon going to both Bricklink and Brick Owl, we see the same curious image both sites are using, that seems to conflict with the original box art.

Hey, look, the fabled alternate build!

So, let's compare:

LEGO alternate builds tend to add something of value that is visually or functionally appealing.

Focusing our attention at the original's wing design, notice how the
tapered flow traverses smooothly back to the stern of the ship, versus
the squared off-bluntness of the alternate.

So... where's the further-appeal rational for the alternate here?
is LEGO offering us a battle damaged version?

Let's nitpick this image's authenticity further.

A) The reflective glare obstructs the minifig, giving us that shine-on-you-crazy-diamond effect only the Pink Floyd fan would appreciate.
B) The shot of the canon weapon is skewed here, but if official, would be aesthetically squared, and oh so perfect.

Furthermore, there is no proof of the existence of "Dash-Two" instructions.

When LEGO offers multiple builds of a set, they tend to add a dash
"-" and a sequential build number at the end of the set's name.
So, if one existed, it would read "6205-2".

Dashy-Two, Dashy-Two! Where are you?

Finally, just Look at it.  On the surface it looks like a build mistake that anyone of us could make, but seriously, after looking deeper, does anyone really think LEGO would approve this?

So, taken it in all together, these detail errors just wouldn't fly at LEGO.

Conclusion: The 6205 alternate build image is simply bogus, and should be ignored as an innocent mistake at Bricklink and Brick Owl.

But... That was some very impressive attention to detail, young Justan Ryan.


What are these parts? Building Tip: Traffic Light Lego Creator

01 - Part #6003 - Plate, Round Corner 6 x 6.

[Color] Dark Bluish Grey.

02 - Part #3795 - Plate 2 x 6.

[Color] Dark Bluish Grey.

03 - Part #3700 Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole.

[Color] Black.

04 - Part #60897 - Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical - Type 4 (thick open O clip).

[Color] Black.

05 - Part #3024 - Plate 1 x 1.

[Color] Black.

06 - Part # 98138 - Tile, Round 1 x 1.

[Colors] Trans-Red, Trans-Yellow, and Trans-Green.

07 - Part #3069b - Tile 1 x 2 with Groove.

[Color] Black.

08 - Part #2431 - Tile 1 x 4.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

09 - Part #14418 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Small Towball Socket on End.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

10 - Part #60474 - Plate, Round 4 x 4 with Hole.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

11 - Part #3941 - Brick, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

12 - Part #32062 - Technic, Axle 2 Notched.

[Color] Red.

13 - Part #6628 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball.

[Color] Black.

14 - Part #4519 - Technic, Axle 3.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

15 - Part #32073 - Technic, Axle 5.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

16 - Part #60485 - Technic, Axle 9.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

17 - Part #32034 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #2 - 180 degrees.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

18 - Part #32014 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #6 - 90 degrees.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

19 - Part #60187 - Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 4L / 3.2cm.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

20 - Part #4274 - Technic, Pin 1/2.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

21 - Part #32039 - Technic, Axle Connector with Axle Hole.

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

22 - Part #59443 - Technic, Axle Connector 2L (Smooth with x Hole + Orientation).

[Color] Light Bluish Grey.

NEW!

FAST'N'Fuss-less download option:

If anyone is planning to purchase said pieces, I've amassed a LXF file with all the parts.

Just download the file to your system, go to Bricklink.com, create a new wanted list, and from there drag and drop this file.

BOOM! You're ready to buy your pieces.


Yes, "Cherries / Cherry Pair" has 3.18mm connection also known as "bar". This type of connection is in system and is compatible with large variety of elements, including two you have mentioned.
Couple of examples:


How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part# 28743?

Here are some disassembly pictures and tips.

Tools needed:

Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover.
T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws.  Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden inside the battery box.
Magnets:  Not required but helpful to keep the screws from getting lost.

The train has a headlight construction with two floating pieces that will fall out.  There is a proper way these pieces go back in, so it's possible not to notice their right orientation.

The clear transparent piece has a "wave" that swells up to encompass and sit directly on the light element. So, the "wave swell" humping up is the top of this piece.

The white headlight diffuse has two squared off "vampire fang" tabs.  Those tabs are the bottom of this piece.

Note: When reassembling, the white diffuse piece and the clear transparent piece have to be together FIRST, then TOGETHER, they are dropped directly down into it's spot.  I found it difficult to put them in separately.

Wheel inspection: I would start with the heavier, but easier to access back wheels.

The positive and negative wires are still tethered to the board, but...

... it just flips up and out for an easy looky-look.

Now to get at the floating front wheels, first we need to flip up the circular speaker.

There's a green rubber button that sits in there too.  See the top lip of the green thing?  That top lip sits on top of the wheel's axle bar. When putting the wheel and axle back in, it's easy to poke it around reposition it back in it's place, so don't worry too much about it, just don't lose it.

Now it's time to gingerly pry up the green circuit board.  When I was taking this apart, it seemed like there were two black tabs holding the board down, but I think those tabs are there to just keep it in place.

The two big (+) positive and (-) negative globs of solder seem to be doing double duty, both as electrical terminal points and as screws to keep the thing in place.

Now be careful.  Look at the above picture.  See the angle I pried up? Just enough to squeeze the wheels and axle out.  Look again at those metal diode stalks coming down from the board at a 90 degree angle.  Those are the bulbs for the train's light/color readers.

This next picture shows how those light/color readers look from underneath next to Mr. Green rubber button.


Pretty sure you're describing a Bionicle Krana Holder 3 x 4, which allegedly comes in light grey, dark grey, brown, red, blue, and green.


Older compatible/clone brand with PB initials

These are quite literally Pebe bricks made indeed in GDR.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pebe
https://www.inverso.pt/legos/clones/texts/pebe.htm

They are not too uncommon in east german second hand vintage batches, since they blend in quite well, just found this one last week:


It looks like this, this, or this

Personally, I would say it's the 3L version in dark gray but it's hard to tell without a better picture of the parts on the page around it.

Hope that helped.


I can suggest using a base MILS module (BTM-1 on the picture below), basically an extra layer including some Technic Bricks around the edge for connectivity between modules as well as some plates on top of existing baseplate. Yes, it is going to be bulkier and heavier, but at the same time much more sturdy and easy to assemble and take apart for travelling.
This also has an added benefit of making your surface 3D (BTM-2) if needed.

UPDATE
LEGO has now produced their own MILS-like elements used as a base layer for mosaic sets as well - Technic, Brick 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Holes (65803)


Where can I find LEGO X-Pod Playoff rules and printoffs?

Here are the PDFs donated by Friend Of George. Here are the unit catalog PDFs.

The starter kit for each pod has an inventory list, a set of cards containing units which can be built, and a set of X-TRA cards.  The cards and inventory list can be printed on card stock for better durability.

The Advanced Rules contain additional rules and Advanced X-TRA cards for the game.

The Advanced Strategy Guide contains some tips on how to best choose and use your units, along with movement and placement strategies.  It also gives sample sets of units and strategies for each Pod against each of the other Pods.

The boards were generated from the website with no obstacles for maximum flexibility.  Bricks should be used for these and placed where desired.


According to this article, the turning is supposed to function via a

  wheel on the bottom that while the car moves forward stays straight but that once the car moves backward moves a little to the side and forces the car to turn.

If correctly built, it should look like this:

A bit later the article offers a few tips on troubleshooting, among which there is your issue as well:

  Problem: My Spik3r doesn’t turn

  This looks like a construction problem. Check the above photo to see how the flying wheel is supposed to look like.

Edit after an update to the question

The wheel marked with the red free-hand circle is meant to slide freely in forward motion (the head of Spik3r is seen at the bottom of the picture), as it is pivoting around the axle with the yellow half-bushes, and get stuck in reverse (as the blue pin catches on the black undercarriage), thereby braking that side of the Spik3r and causing the model to turn towards that side.

If this wheel gets stuck during reverse, then it is working as intended and should provide enough friction to turn the whole model.

If it does not get stuck, then it is due to a mistake in the build.

If it gets stuck but does not force the model to turn, then you might need to change the friction between the wheel and the ground it's running on (e.g. use it on a carpet or any other surface rougher than the polished hardwood shown in the background).


What's the best way to machine LEGO pieces on a mill?

I don't have any experience modifying a brick with a mill but I have had success using a drill press, knife, and dremel. I can't imagine there being any problems while using a mill.

If you're looking to clean out the pipes inside a brick, I've found higher speeds with a drill work better. At a lower speed, the bit cuts into the pipe but doesn't remove any of the plastic. When the bit is spinning faster, it doesn't cut into the pipe but shaves the plastic off.

Lego is ABS plastic, I believe, so doing some research on working with ABS, rather than specifically Lego, might give you more answers too.


Maybe a search for custom box design although I doubt they'd make small volumes either. It would look very professional, though.

What I've seen fans selling custom kits doing is using simple white boxes with stickers on them. Usually the buyers are more interested in the contents anyway. Sticker printing shouldn't be a problem (as it's going to be put on cardboard a simple inkjet-sticker sheet should do), and I assume plain white boxes shouldn't be too hard to find.

An laternative would be to print your images on cardboard which you can fold yourself, but then you'll need to think properly about placement of images. If the cardboard is thin, you can use it as an outer shell for an inner white box which would be more solid. 3mm cardboard may be overkill, but that's the general idea.


Is there only one lego Rohan soldier? Why?

This is correct. I double checked on the LEGO wiki. The reason is likely because they haven't had time to release more sets that take place in scenes where the Rohan soldiers are present. If they ever release an Edoras, Minis Tirith or Battle of the Pelennor Fields set, perhaps there will be more.


How to upload an XML file to wishlist in bricklink

Bricklink is correct - 3062 does not exist. Your link shows 3062b, which DOES exist (Don't ask me why the base number does not exist though :) ). So if you change your XML to

    <INVENTORY>
        <ITEM>
            <ITEMTYPE>P</ITEMTYPE>
            <ITEMID>3062b</ITEMID>
            <COLOR>23</COLOR>
        </ITEM>
    </INVENTORY>

It should load.

I do not know the answer to the second part of your question: 4211425 translates to ITEMID 3460 in color White, and the Catalog knows this, but the wanted list does not :(.


NXT brick output ports not working properly

Try putting a Wait block after the motor block. Set it to wait for 5 seconds.

I think your program just terminates after one block. Please post your program next time you have a mindstorms question.


What set does this light grey 2x8 overhanging brick with a 10 on the side belong to?

Confirmed that this is not LEGO, but Mega Bloks.

http://gamearn.me/mega-bloks-tank/mega-bloks-tank-legends-battle/

Not sure if it is from this set specifically (looks like it might have some stickers to add the camouflage or yours comes from a similar set).


Does the word Lego have anything to do with Latin verb lego?

The official story is that Ole Kirk Kristiansen didn't realise until years after naming the company what it meant in Latin (normally it's said to mean "I put together", not "I collect"), and as there was no construction over the products made in the first many years, it seems unlikely that he should have thought along those lines.


Why older bricks have greater clutch power?

This is a partial answer (or theory).
The moulds for most of the basic bricks have been changed over the years to use less plastic while (hopefully) retaining clutch.

2 x N bricks were given thinner walls with 'notches' for the studs. This may have slightly weakened clutch power.

1 x N bricks (and some plates) were given holes through the bottom tubes and had some supporting walls removed. Not sure how this might've affected clutch power though.

Photos taken from here.


What piece is this and what is its purpose?

We call them space binoculars. They're like binoculars, but in space!


Who are the Lego Certified Professionals?

2021 May update
Number of LCP's is still the same - 21 (listed below). However, TLG has now included details on all of the members. You can find more information about each member on the LEGO Certified Professionals webpage.
Americas

Robin Sather
Nathan Sawaya
Graeme Dymond

Europe & Middle East

Dirk Denoyelle
Georg Schmitt
Matija Puzar
Rene Hoffmeister
Kevin Hall
Ricardo Zangelmi
Luke Reveruzzi
Caspar Bennedsen
Balazs Doczy

Asia-Pacific

Prince (Shenghui) Jiang
Jumpei Mitsui
Wani Kim
Jae Won Lee
Wei Wei Shannon Gluckman
Nicholas Foo
Yenchih Huang
Andy Hung
Ryan McNaught


Connecting 2 NXT bricks in order to control motors and sensors from one brick

What you're describing is not (directly) possible, but you DO have some alternative options:

The standard solution is to use Bluetooth. Two NXTs can communicate with Bluetooth using the Lego software.

Pair the NXTs using the on-brick menus.
Write programs for both NXT 1 and NXT 2:

At the start of the program, NXT 1 initiates a Bluetooth connection to NXT 2.
NXT 1 sends a message when it wants NXT 2 to do something; NXT 2 responds when it's finished.

Start both programs manually (in this setup, NXT 2 has to start first so it'll be ready when NXT1 connects).

If something less complex is acceptable, you can communicate using light sensors. Attach 2 light sensors facing directly into each other. One NXT can talk to the other by flashing the light on the sensor.

If you're open to alternative languages, LeJOS (Java for Mindstorms) gets you a lot closer to your goal. Through Bluetooth, NXT 1 can remotely start a program on NXT 2, or even access the motors and sensors. You can even communicate over high-speed RS485 by directly wiring two port 4's together, just like you said.

There used to be a 3rd-party NXT-G block for sending data over RS485. With it you could write programs for NXT 1 and NXT 2 like I described above, but with a direct wire between port 4's instead of Bluetooth. It would probably have lower latency than Bluetooth, but it's still not as direct as you would like.


There are several editors which are based on the open LDraw part database.

I believe that the most popular are MLCAD and LeoCAD. I personally use LDD, so I can't speak to the quality of the instruction generation from these tools, but they do at least offer the ability to create instructions.

LeoCAD is probably your best bet for doing animations, and it is available for Windows, Mac, and Linux.

BrickLink has recently released Stud.io in open beta, and it appears to combine the best of LDD and LDraw - it works with the LDraw part database but will import LDD models and offers a similar interface to LDD as well as collaboration and integration with the BrickLink shops for purchasing the elements for your models.


Please identify this black 2x2 tile with sticker, sunset with 2 palm trees and boat

This is part #  3068bpb0183 : Tile 2 x 2 with Hovercraft Sunset Pattern (Sticker)

From 8485-1: Control Centre II


What are the various LEGO motors that have been produced over the years?

For a comprehensive enumeration and measurements on all motors, refer to Philo's excellent page on this topic: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

There are some LEGO motors that are missing from this list since they predate the 9V era, like the 4.5V motor, or the 4.5V train motor, but these are probably only of interest if you already own them, in which case you don't need to be told about them :)

There are other elements that might be considered motors, like the PF servo motor (Thanks to Phil B.), but one might argue that the servo motor is not a motor in the strict sense, since it has a fixed range of movement instead of being able to turn continuously.

Also there are pieces that incorporate motors with other functional elements, like the main part of the 4095-1 Record and Play set, the Spybotics module, the Micro Scout in the Droid Developer Kit or the Cybermaster main unit.

The WeDo theme uses a Power Functions M motor (Source).


Is there a list of giveaway sets from Toys R Us or other events?

Try Brickset.com (I'm the founder of the site). We list all that we are told about.

You can also record your collection there, and keep it in sync at Rebrickable.


On Bricklink this is called Wedge 3 x 4 x 2/3 Cutout.

As Uli pointed out in the comments this part is called "FRONT 4X3X2/3 W. BOW" in LDD. The given image looks very similar. You can also see if this is really the part you're looking for by looking at the 3D model of it.

How I found it: Searching by properties did not work (which usually does), and I knew that many Lego city police sets had red-colored vehicles, so on google I searched "lego city police" and hit images, and I saw an image of the front of the box for set 60243 which showed a truck that seemingly looked like it had this piece and I found the same set on bricklink. Then I looked at the part list, and it had this part!


Why does the Brickset inventory page incorrectly list a set as including 200 of a part when it actually includes more?

This doesn't have anything to do with database limitations or anything like that. Brickset scrapes their inventories from the replacement parts list on LEGO.com:

https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts

Normally, you are able to request as many replacement parts as there are parts in the set, so this is the number that Brickset uses for it's inventory count. Unfortunately, the max you can request is 200, so Brickset doesn't list more than 200 of the same part being found in a set.


On the left of the image, you have 4730-1 The Chamber of Secrets, and on the right of the image you have 4709-1 Hogwarts Castle
The Chamber of Secrets came with Minifigs of Harry Potter, Ron Weasley, Gilderoy Lockhart, Ginny Weasley, and Tom Riddle, as well as a Basilisk (giant snake) and Fawkes (Phoenix)
Hogwarts Castle came with Albus Dumbledore, Draco Malfoy, Harry Potter, Hermione Granger, Ron Weasley, Severus Snape, Rubeus Hagrid, Peeves, and a Knight.
While available as separate sets, they also came together in a "kit" with the addition of 4705-1 Snape's Classroom


Why are new LEGO bricks softer than old ones?

Some of it may be your own perception changing, such as a room you remember being big when you were a kid, but which you find small as an adult. So when you perceive bricks as being softer, it could actually be that they aren't, but that your perception changed. (If you were to walk barefoot on LEGO bricks for one hour per day, your feet would eventually harden enough that you wouldn't feel it anymore.)

However, some may actually hold true, especially for weapons. Swords that are produced nowadays are indeed not as hard as they were back then, and that is simply for safety reasons, as safety controls put in place become harder with times. In extreme cases, they'll even use rubber, for example for the tip of the big spike introduced with exo-force. Another more subtle example is the circular saw blade: ever thought how dumb it was that they didn't use a cross axle hole in that? Wonder no more: it's just so that kids wouldn't put it on a motor (I know I would have as a kid).

As for the perceived quality changes, well, it's a bit of the same, there's a lot of it which is just that, perception; but there are of course real quality issues that pop up from time to time, which LEGO usually assesses the best they can. One key factor here is that there's a huge stock in their factories, so any changes they make can take a while before they appear in released sets. For example, they have switched at some point from buying precolored plastic granulate to adding the color themselves to white granulate, but at some point they didn't add enough color, resulting in translucent and more fragile bricks. They fixed that, but a lot of the already produced bricks made it into sets.

Also, LEGO can only learn about quality issue when customers actually complain about them, so when facing a real quality issue, it's always best to contact the customer service and explain the problem. Not only will they usually be able to provide replacements for you, but this will eventually reach the production quality assurance.


Identifying two BIONICLE parts, white and dark grey curved shell

These are Bionicle parts, specifically the back spine of the 8588-1 Rahkshi Kurahk.

The individual parts are:

http://brickset.com/parts/design-44140
http://brickset.com/parts/design-44139


They're called MiniBrix.

Year of creation: 1935.
Material: Rubber.
Manufacturer: Premo Rubber Company.
Watch my source informative video by JangBricks HERE, which tells the interesting history of toy bricks before LEGO ;).

Audiophile Bonus: Cool background music from the video.


Are all the Magnet minifigs now glued on and how should I remove them?

All new magnet sets introduced by LEGO will have the figures glued, as will any re-makes of existing sets.

History

In 2009 LEGO started producing sets of minifigures standing on magnetic bricks. At that time, the figures were removable, although some felt that they were of lower quality than the figs in regular LEGO sets.

In early 2011, however, LEGO started to produce Star Wars magnet sets where the minifigures were glued to the magnet. The problem was that LEGO Star Wars magnet sets violated a licensing agreement which said that LEGO could produce sets that contained Star Wars characters, but that they couldn't produce stand-alone figures. Apparently, one of the other big-name toy brands who was licences to produce stand-alone figures objected to the LEGO magnet products because they felt that the availability of LEGO Star Wars figures on magnets harmed their own sales figures. LEGO recognised that fans would be unhappy, but felt that it was in everyone's best interests to comply with requests to change their products.

To promote "a consistent consumer experience", all new LEGO minifigure magnet sets have had the minifigures permanently fixed on the magnet since that time, including the Pharaoh’s Quest sets launched the previous December.

This means that:

All sets that are new since January 2011 are glued.
Some sets that existed before January 2011 come in two versions - a glued version and a non-glued version. Confusingly, the sets have the same number and have been sold from LEGO shops simultaneously, and have similar packaging. Glued sets do have a note on the back saying that they are glued (in rather small print).
Any re-releases will be glued.
It might still be possible to buy non-glued sets. In December 2011 I was still able to buy certain non-glued sets from the online LEGO store in the UK. I assume that they were old stock.
Some parts are never glued - typically accessories like light sabres.

Some details for specific sets are available on TheBrickBlogger.com.

Incidentally, it is widely believed that one of the reasons that LEGO introduced the "Battle Packs" is to provide a way to buy minifigures that gets around the licensing issues.

Removing Minifigures

The most effective way to remove minifigures from the magnets is the "hot water process".

It turns out that LEGO does not actually "glue" the bricks, but uses a solvent that loosens the surface of the ABS plastic and allows the molecules to combine. The solvents are water soluble at certain temperatures, so hot water can weaken the seal between the bricks. Care must be taken not to overheat the water, however, as the melting point of ABS plastic is somewhat below boiling point.

Although the removal process does no damage to the LEGO, the places where the bricks were fused won't be smooth due to the fusion process itself.

Again, more details are to be found at TheBrickBlogger.com.

Disclaimer: I have not tried this myself.

Obtaining Minifigures

All this leaves us with several options for obtaining the minifigures we want:

Buy the sets that contain them (or figures that others have removed these sets). Battle packs and (for Star Wars) Advent Calendars are a good place to start.
Obtain old magnet sets that are not glued
Accept the rough edges left by the hot water method
Use parts from a combination of the above.

Response

The other thing we need to decide is how we respond to this change. My suggestions are:

Be happy that some sets were produced unglued.
Encourage LEGO to produce more battle packs by buying existing ones.
STOP buying the glued sets, and make LEGO aware that we don't like them.
Lobby LEGO to produce unglued magnet sets where licence restrictions don't exist.
Encourage LEGO to make statements about gluing more prominent on the glued sets.


Is there a way to move items from quote back to basket?

No. You cannot put items from quote back to cart, but there is a better option.
As per help topic on Bricklink:

You can add quote items to a wanted list at any time by clicking the Add Quote Items to Wanted List button on the quote summary page

Here how it looks in your quote (just at the bottom of your item list):

Once you click on that button you have an option to add items from your quote to an existing Wanted List or create a new one. This then allows you to have a list of items from quote that you can use to buy in other stores too, not just the one you've requested a quote from.
More details on how to use wanted lists when buying parts can be found in another help article on Bricklink.


A 90 degree turn with Wheel part number 56145

Use your gyroscope sensor, set your program to have the Move Tank block turn very slowly in the "On" mode, and then use a Wait block checking the Gyro sensor until it sees an absolute change of 90 degrees. Then add a Move Tank "Off" block. That's the closest you will come to 90 degrees.


Why does my EV3 not have data logging in Brick App menu?

The brick currently has the "Home" version of the firmware loaded as indicated by the "H" in 1.07H. You can use the Education version of the desktop EV3 programming software to load the educational version of the firmware (ends in "E"). Data logging is only present in the educational version.


Yet, another part ID question: Large blue dish

Set #4417- Aero Pod.

Top. Part #4767 - Blue
Container, X-Pod Top Cap 9 x 9 x 1 1/3.
Middle.  Part #47674 -
Trans-Yellow Container, X-Pod Barrel Section 10 x 10 x 3 1/3.
Bottom.  Part #47676 - Blue
Container, X-Pod Bottom Cap 9 x 9 x 1.


How should I create a Heroica scale graveyard or crypt room?

Crypts don't offer a lot of color possibilities, I think, so I'd try to take an approach using texture. Replacing bricks with plates, and then some of the plates with 1x1 round plates or empty space gives a "broken stone" feel.

Obviously, crypts also need coffins. You can use a 1x2 plate with a 1x2 tile on top for a closed one, or a 1x1 tile and 1x1 plate and put a slightly angled 1x2 tile on top to give the impression it's been opened.

You can try making a few "entrances" as a stone roof supported on pillars. Again, there are some 1x1 round plates to give a hint of a carved relief along the top.

Another common bit of crypt imagery is a catacomb with endless recesses carved into the wall for bodies. A 2x1 plate sandwiched between two 2x2 plates gives a similar effect, and there are several options for what to put in the blank space - or just leave it empty.

For the end I'd imagine a fancy raised altar where the necromancer / lich / mummy / etc. is. Some bright colors here will really stand out even if the build is simple.

For a graveyard outside the crypt, I'd use a combination of the same arches, some simple gravestones, and some of the tall, thin trees from Fortaan. Using some 1x2s with 1 stud you can get a good gravestone layout.


Those look like Best-lock bricks.

The red looks to be lighter and more-transparent, like Best-lock bricks do compared to Lego.

The studs have no markings.

The 1/2/5 looks like the ones found in Best-lock sets, like this one.


If you look at the quantity of parts in all sets, the most common is the 1x2 brick ignoring color. The most common part and color combo is the Techhnic pin with friction in black.

These stats were pulled from Rebrickable's database - they previously had a "Stats" page, but this has since been replaced with their API.


Identify wall piece with jungle or Meso-American print?

This is LegoBrick 1 x 2 x 5 with Jungle Pattern, which appeared in 2 sets from 1999: 5986-1 Amazon Ancient Ruins and 5936-1 LegoSpider's Secret / Señor Gomez's Expedition
(I first searched BrickLink for "Aztec" and "Mayan", which pulled up some Indiana Jones sets, and then tried "Jungle", which had this on the first page of results.)


Your code handling the behaviours like "Shoot 3 times if the touch sensor is triggered" or "Shoot if the light sensor is triggered" should use 'if' statements.

Then, instead of always being called, the "shooting" code would append only on sensor events.  After shooting, the robot would then go back to the "Driving around" part of the code.

This page is a good visual reference for all the RCX programming components


Mindstorms Vision Command - what shall I do with it?

I've tried with limited success to get this hardware to work with various systems. There was a single third-party cam driver for OS X that let it be used as a digi-cam. That is, there was no integration with other LEGO software or firmware.

It is some sort of Logitech, but the devil is in the details. There are no modern Windows drivers. OS X is probably no longer a viable option, though I have not checked recently (recently: last 3-4 releases). Linux or BSD is probably where experimentation might pan out.

Even so, getting the camera to work is different than getting it to work with any other era of Mindstorms equipment.

It is essentially abandon-ware or experiment-ware.

My only advice is to give it away or sell it "as-is". I did consider cracking it open and replacing the guts with more modern hardware (perhaps a bluetooth or wi-fi camera to get rid of the tether) but without any integration into Mindstorms, it's just another digi-cam. But at least it could be one that easily attaches to other LEGO.


Can't find the LEGO set number for this item, black car with clear light blue canopy and front wheels?

This vehicle is missing some pieces, but comes from set 70162 Infearno Interception from the Ultra Agents series. It came out in 2014.


Are my LEGO Star Wars Royal Guards with black hands counterfeit?

That set was produced from around 2009, and anecdotally, we've seen that the LEGO logo wasn't really added to the leg elements until around 2013.
There are also examples of legitimate accessories having no logo on them as well.


Where's the iNXTG app for programming NXT from iPad?

Unfortunately there is no good solution for controlling NXT’s from an iPad. There are plenty of Android apps to control them manually, but you’re best bet on iOS is to write something on your own. LEGO does provide a Bluetooth Developer Kit with the info so it is possible.


How can I get a Powered Up motor to run without using a hub?

There is at least one third-party Power Functions to Powered Up adapter available that can be used for this purpose:

Here's a video demonstrating it in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96SxM-0UkVQ


Help Identifying LEGO With A Pink 3(｀(00) ´ )Ɛ Face

Other sets with Minecraft Piggy Face Piece Here.


Where will the World First Lego League be held in 2015?

The FLL World Festival is going to be held in St. Louis, MO, USA, on April 22-25, 2015 (http://www.firstlegoleague.org/event/worldfestival).  This is the only official championship event held by the FLL.

Before the World Festival, various qualifying events are held all over the world.  You can learn more about those events by searching on this page: http://www3.usfirst.org/whats-going-on

Unofficially, FLL partners hold Open Championships around the world.  These events generally take place in the United States (in addition to the official World Festival), Canada, Asia, and Europe.  For more information, visit this Wikipedia page:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIRST_Lego_League_Open_Championships


When I was a child and our family moved, I took apart the larger sets into easily manageable pieces. For example, taking off wings and antennas of starships. Then I tetrised all the pieces into shoe boxes and other closable, stackable containers that could then be transported by almost any means. This method required reassembly at the destination but thanks to the planned breakdown it was easy to do. If I remember correctly the boxes were lined with cloth to dampen vibrations and prevent scratches, so nothing really got damaged.


Set missing all the Minifigures and a few other parts

It is unlikely that Lego mispacked all of the minifigures. In the Quinjet set, the figures are spread among several bags, meaning Lego would have had a packing error in multiple bags, and then coincidentally placed all of the mispacked bags into the same box.

More likely is that someone removed them from the box and returned the package to the store. If I were you, I would take the box back to the point of purchase and ask for a replacement. The set is still in production, so they should be able to get you another or refund your money.


What set does this bag belong to? Black, grey, orange, and blue rubber band

Based on the colors in the bag, the potential date code of 12S7 (you wrote 127S but I assume that is a transposition error in your post), and the fact that there is a box with blue rubber bands in it (box number 6049725) I am going out on a limb and suggest this is set 75102 Poe Dameron’s X-wing Fighter from 2015. The seal code points to a 2017 production date which is possible, as this set was still being sold all the way up to early 2018. It has 5 bags (so having a bag marked 5 fits) and the 5th bag does contain both rubber bands as well as black, grey and orange pieces.


I talked to a Lego expert on the lego.com online chat.  He told me that this particular lego head was an exclusive part for the Build a Minifigure bin and gave me the part number for it 6257472 mini figure head #2829.  I didn't know there were exclusive parts in the minifigure bin, I wonder if this is something new.  He seemed quite surprised when he found it in the lego database as being exclusive to the build a minifigure bin.


What are some creative uses of the orange brick separator tool?

I have seen a number of very creative builds with the orange brick separator. Here are some examples:

Spaceship by F@bz: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabz71/12434428513/

Mech by Lewis Meeny: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tr0jinh0rse/11318913594/

Deep Sea Explorer by Keith Reed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithreed/12943153094/

And my favorite is this Clown Fish X-wing by dr-spock-888: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dr_spock_888/20558633496/

And there is also the super secret worship room of the cult of the Followers of One Long Orange Object or FOOLOO by cimddwc: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cimddwc/24779936911/


No, the EV3 IR remote (which uses the same protocol as Power Functions remote) is not programmable. The simplest way of doing your timelapse photography is to press the button of your camera remote with a cam on an EV3 motor...