What is the best way to sell sealed LEGO sets?

If you really have that much (hundreds or more sets to move), you have some options:

Set up a Ebay store:
    Up front cost: None
    Profit: ~80% of net (Ebay takes a cut, Taxes, shipping materials)
    The slow burn option. You will eventually get rid of everything, but it will take some time, and many trips to the post office.

Go rent a table at a local Lego convention:
    Up front cost: probably a few hundred bucks
    Profit: After the booth /table cost, all the money is pretty much yours.
    This will get rid of stuff fast if you go to a sizable convention and you price reasonably. People buy a lot of lego at Lego conventions. You will have to plan this in advance, since tables might require being reserved months in advance.

Find a reliable Lego collector to sell it for you:
    I had a good friend who is an active member of the local Lego community do this for a family who acquired a huge vintage Lego collection. I think he took about a 20% cut and had most of it sold off in a few months. The upside of this approach is that you don't have to do anything but count the money you make. Make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing though. Older collectors are good choices, since they know a lot of the history of sets and themes.

I don't know how good sites liek Bricklink are for selling sets. It is a fantastic place to buy sell loose parts, but I don't know how quickly sets move there.


Which hand is this minifigure extending normally?

I personally consider the left one as up-right ever since I was a kid and that's how Lego place all their hands in their promotional pictures:


Can the experts Identify these sets, grey octagon platform and tan plates?

Mostly, both pictures come from Set #79006 The Council of Elrond, but...

...Minifigure white chest piece comes from: Set Col03-15 Rapper, Series 3 (Complete Set with Stand and Accessories).


How can I build Victorian Style windows?

This Flickr user's model evokes nice victorian windows without using any glass

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgorlando/3914963760/

as does this one

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgorlando/4099206027/

See also this amazing series on window techniques

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28192677@N06/5713290533/in/set-72157626335716516/

which includes this beaut

Also consider these stained glass designs. Stained glass is VERY victorian, although not the way you meant :)

http://www.brothers-brick.com/2010/12/04/christmas-window/


In the 60s, Lego did produce a separate system for architectural modelling called Modulex which used a 1:1 ratio 5mm cube as its basic brick. It wasn't successful and was discontinued in the late 60s.

I believe the 6:5 was chosen so that studs could fit into the geometry. Related: why the plate is 1/3 of the brick's height. By adding two plates to the height of the brick vertically you can now match the centres of two horizontal units (6+2+2):(5+5)


What is this 2x2 white brick in the shape of a figure driving a go kart?

Based on your description, i think you have

x351 - Brick, Modified 2 x 2 Racer Driver No Head

This comes from:

4593-1: Zero Hurricane and Red Blizzard


What are some LEGO Christmas trees designs I can build?

This is the design I created last year for the Winter Bash 2018 Building Competition.

It's very detailed and has many outward-facing studs to which decorations can be attached.

Here's some instructions for building the tree without decorations (note that many of the pieces are internal and do not have to be green).

(Click the image to view the instructions larger)

NOTE: In step 9, you will need to rotate some of the stems to avoid overlapping in order to attach them all.


How can I use multiple switch options in Lego Mindstorms EV3 software?

I just discovered this a few days ago. If you use "Numeric" as the input type and switch to tabbed view, you can have a select/case/default type instruction instead of if/then. It also works with text input as well as as some sensors.


I attempt to create a searchable index of SNOT techniques, as this is called. Of those, the strongest 180 degree stud reversal are probably one of these:

If you want to connect the two curves together bottom to bottom, you should be able to do it with an axle, sort of like these two techniques:

If that doesn't work I once had luck playing around with a lever and a rubber band. It was tricky, but it did work:


When cleaning dust from scale models, sculptures, figurines or LEGO models I use an artist 'Fan' brush.  This is the best method I've found to clean dust rapidly without damaging models.

The fan brush's long hairs combined with the thin spread enables you to dust 'any shapes and surfaces without risk of damage.  For example, it would clean a LEGO antenna (1 stud attachment only) without making it fall.  You can can really push the brush into the bumps and cracks and the long hairs will bend and reach around the features.
Also, when dusting a big piece, I also set an electric fan a low power to blow air across my work table. This prevents the dust from just going up and settling back down on the model.

A huge advantage, learned after cleaning model boats, is that it is also perfect for dusting ropes (small cables).  This worked like a charm on my LEGO Technic crane with all the complex cable system.  It is also good on cloth, so it would work for the minifigures capes.


How has the basic brick changed over the years?

I can't provide a list of all the minor changes, but I can at least tell the most significant change made in the history of the basic 2x4 brick (which applies to all other bricks and parts, too):

1963: Material changed from Cellulose Acetate to Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS)*

In general, there are no essential changes made: a brand-new brick still fits together with one from before 1963 as long as the Cellulose Acetate hasn't deformed too much during ageing (which is the main reason they switched to ABS, it's more robust, scratch-proof and doesn't deform so easily).

The main "change" that really affects building is the continuously improving precision in production - this happens all the time, so there's no point on the timeline. The effect is simple: better fitting bricks improve the stability of your construction.

*Transparent bricks consist of Polycarbonate, axles consist of Polyamide


Minifig rotatable legs on a stick - what is this?

The part in question shows up as a "Minifig Gravity Stunt Handle" (part number x817) on Peeron and a "Turntable Spinning with Sports Trick Handle" (item number bb128) on BrickLink. Looks like it appears in two sets:

Snowboard Super Pipe:

Skateboard Vert Park Challenge:


Two LEGO Powered Up engines with reverse direction

Th easiest solution is to just use port "B" on the rear engine and then turn the "B" side remote control panel 180 degrees.  They will then both go the same direction for "up" or "down". You may even find that having the rear motor 1 click lower than the front is advantageous so it isn't pushing too much in turns, trying to buckle the train.


These are all  the playing card tiles I can find:
3069bpb264 : Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Playing Cards Four Aces Pattern

3069bpx6 : Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Playing Cards Full House Pattern

3069bpb337: Tile 1 X 2 with Groove with Playing Card Ace of Spades Pattern

3069bpb338 : Tile 1 X 2 with Groove with Playing Card Joker Pattern

Those last two part numbers are individual cards, both of which came from a Jester minifigure from one of the collectible minifigs series.
Also, those coins you see in the middle of the table are from part 70501c01 and  97053.


Quick answer: LEGO gear module is 1 (metric).

See Section 3.4 at this link: http://bdml.stanford.edu/Main/CrawlerNotes

The consensus seems to be the following:

Lego gears have a metric module of 1, which is the same as a pitch of 25.4 teeth per inch of diameter.
Pressure angle is likely to be about 20 degrees. (This is the most common angle with modern gearing.)
Face width is approximately 1/8 inch. Perhaps more precisely: b = 0.14 inches? - according to a measurement somebody took with calipers in 2011. But note that not all LEGO gears have the full face width. In particular, the crown gears (LEGO's version of bevel gears) do not have a full face width.

From http://orionrobots.co.uk/Lego+Specifications:

  In the Lego system, technic gears have a ratio that the number of
  teeth are 8 times the diameter, or 16 times the radius in stud pitch.
  Conveniently - the number of studs, and Diameter in Millimeters seem
  to be the same. Note: one "stud" is 8mm. So: 16 tooth gear is 2 studs
  = 16mm => diametral pitch = 1mm.

Also, I have personally 3D printed custom gears with a pressure angle of 20 degrees and a module of 1, and these meshed perfectly with my other LEGO gears.


A technology building set that is not LEGO Technic, K'NEX, or Meccano. Can you help me with the name?

Based on your description, this sounds like Fischertechnik:


Are the molds for LEGO bricks maintained in house or is maintanance partly outsourced?

Moulds are maintained in-house.

As you say, the moulds are at the very core of the business of the LEGO company and are thus treated with all the seriousness you can imagine. Considering also that some moulds are in effect trade secrets by themselves (especially for parts which aren't publicly known yet), LEGO wouldn't want any of them to exit the company. (It's been said that retired moulds are embedded in concrete of new buildings, but that's probably an exaggerated version of "they are destroyed".)

If I remember correctly, National Geographic's reportage on LEGO (in a serie on ultimate factories) showed some very interesting insight on the moulding process, including the making and cleaning of moulds, which I'm certain will be interesting for you. You can find these on YouTube; in particular, watch the interview of one Finn Kirkegaard at the beginning of part 2. You'll also notice that these things are absurdly heavy, which would make the transport of them an issue too.


The answer is: you can't.

The EV3 brick detects which type of sensor is plugged in to the ports by examining the electrical characteristics of the sensor1. Electrically, all NXT Analog sensors look pretty much the same, so they will all be detected at the LEGO NXT Sound sensor (or possibly the LEGO NXT Light sensor - or a very, very small chance as the LEGO NXT Touch sensor).

So, take @momrobo's advice and write a small program that simulates the built-in port view.

Or, if you are really ambitious you can create an adapter so that the sensor will look like an EV3 type analog sensor instead of an NXT type analog sensor. How do to this would be better suited to a blog post.


Since you don't want to go through the trouble of sorting the bulk lot, you can sell it as is either locally or at an auction site like eBay. It is perfectly normal to sell bulk lots of LEGO both locally and online without being able to tell exactly what's in the lot. If you want to spend the least amount of time on this, I would suggest first listing the lot on Craigslist or similar venues you may have locally. If it doesn't sell locally within a month or so, put the lot up on eBay.

Whether you sell locally or through an auction site, describe the lot as much as you can, but don't make guarantees. Just describe what you see. If you have a scale, measure the weight of the loose LEGO pieces. Many people buy LEGO by the pound, and knowing that the lot includes i.e. 10 pounds of pieces can be helpful for buyers to understand what they are looking at. (Just for your information, $5/lbs is the usual going price for mixed lot of used LEGO that buyers are willing to pay).

You can sell the lot just by a brief description, the weight, and pictures. It is a normal and accepted practice to sell mixed lots of bulk LEGO. However, if you spend a bit more time on the description, you will likely get better offers. This would include things like the general condition of the pieces, instructions and minifigures. Are there any other toys or foreign objects mixed in? Do the pieces need cleaning? Do they appear lightly used or heavily played with? Are printed pieces and clear pieces scratched up or appear to be in good condition?

If you feel they may have special value, describe the minifigs separately. How many there are, and what is their condition. If you see teeth-marks, paint marks, stains, missing body parts, etc. the value is going to be a lot less then if they are in pristine condition. Again, don't make guarantees, because everyone will have different standards, but just describe what you see.

Include a list of the instruction booklets. List the set numbers printed at the front of the instructions, as well as the condition of the instructions (i.e. missing pages, ripped pages, other damage). The list can give people an idea what pieces might be in the lot.

Whether you advertise locally or through an auction site like eBay, one of the most important part of your description is pictures. The more detailed pictures you take, the better. This doesn't mean having to photograph every piece separately, but just spread out the pieces as reasonably as you can and take good quality shots. You might want to also take separate pictures of the minifigs and the instruction booklets. Make sure that the pictures are not fuzzy and dark. The more people can see, the better their offers are going to be.

If you list on Craigslist or a similar local site, you will need to put a price on the lot. This is a bit tricky as you don't want to ask for something outrageous to put off people from even contacting you, but you also don't want to lowball yourself. You could work with the $5/pound standard for bulk lots, and maybe ask for $7/pound, leaving some room to go lower if necessary. eBay is a lot easier in regards to pricing, as the market will give you exactly what the lot is worth based on your description and pictures. List the lot as an auction with a low starting price and/or reserve, and let people bid what they think the lot is worth. Keep in mind that eBay will take 10% of the proceeds, and another 3% will go to PayPal.

If you sell through eBay, you will also need to ship the lot to the buyer. Get the right size shipping box and packing materials beforehand so you get at least a rough idea of how much it is going to cost to ship. Pack smaller lots into Ziplock bags before placing them in the shipping box. This will prevent the pieces from rattling around too much and getting damaged, and it also prevents bringing attention to the content of the box (stealing boxes full of LEGO is pretty common). You can offer free shipping (this will bring in more potential bidders, but you will have to eat the cost yourself), or let the buyer pay for shipping. The eBay selling platform helps you set this all up.

Keep in mind that selling the lot bulk is still going to bring in the least amount of money. This is understandable, as people are talking the risk of not knowing what's exactly in the lot, the condition of the pieces, minifigs and instructions, and how many of the sets are complete.

Another option you might consider is hire someone locally to sort the pieces for you into sets that you can then sell separately. You might not have the time and inclination, but many people love to sort LEGO. You can even have a sorting party with a few older kids and/or adults. Offer some pizza and drinks and they will be happy to sort the pieces for you into sets. Once the sets are sorted, depending on how complete they are, you can either sell them as complete used sets, partial used sets, or smaller bulk lots of Star Wars sets, Harry Potter sets, etc.

One last thing I would add is that LEGO is bringing back Harry Potter this year. They will likely have much better sets and minifigs than in the past. If you want to sell the lot you have for the best price, I would suggest doing it before the new sets are released.


Why I get this message saying "unable to compile some documents for deployment ev3"?

Is that the whole error message or are there more lines to it?
You could always try copying and pasting your project pieces into a new project, maybe the project file itself got corrupted in some way.
It also might be possible that some of your custom blocks have errors in them.
If none of these work for you, then try to isolate the source of the error - hold Ctrl and click on parts of the program, then press Run Selected (looks like play sign with parentheses) to check if the error is still there. If the error goes away after testing a specific block, then it is the source of the error, therefore you should look more closely to find the issue.


According to LDraw, the slot is 8 LDU wide (1 plate, 3.2mm) and 5 LDU deep (quarter module or stud, 2.0mm). Here's the relevant quads from the LDraw file for reference:


Can you identify these (possibly) LEGO horses?

Those horses look like legit LEGO-brand horses.

Specifically:

White Horse with Black Eyes, White Pupils and Dark Orange Bridle Pattern: 4493c01pb04

Black Horse with Black Eyes Circled with White, Brown Bridle Pattern: 4493c01pb02

In order to be extra sure they are genuine LEGO, look for the "LEGO" stamp on the inside of the hollow studs on their back where the saddle goes (it's a little hard to see).

These horses each came in a fair number of sets. Check the BrickLink links for a list of possible sets. If you are sure they both came in the same set, these are the sets both came in:

5394-1
6021-1
6042-1
6055-1
6073-1
6074-1
6080-1
6081-1
6085-1
6086-1
6090-1
6095-1
6419-1
6761-1
6762-1
6769-1
8777-1
10039-1
10176-1


Getting a PC to recognize Lego Mindstorms as Controller Input

You will not be able to do this with the official LEGO firmware, but it will be possible with ev3dev or possibly another 3rd-party OS for EV3.

Search the web for "linux bluetooth hid emulation". There are plenty of examples. I haven't tried any of them, so I can't recommend any specific one here.

I can recommend using the python programming language with ev3dev though, as it is the easiest way to get started if you are not an experienced programmer. Searching for "linux bluetooth hid emulation gamepad python" turned up this python program, which looks promising.


Buy the complete EV3 set or only the brick?

Since the NXT 2.0 was released in 2009 you must have a first generation NXT set then. As per this question the peripherials (motors, sensors and of course their connecting cables) remain compatible. So you could just get the central unit and use the already owned NXT components. Keep in mind though that all parts (motors, sensors) have since been redesigned, so the EV3 versions will likely work better, and don't forget that the EV3 set includes an infrared sensor as well, which was not present in the NXT complement.


Why do basic brick boxes tend not to include many gray bricks?

Psychology

This eHow article explains quite well why people (children in particular) are attracted to bright colours. Whilst it doesn't directly relate to LEGO, or toys in general, it does make quite a few good points about the effect colours have on our choices:

  "According to a 2005 research article published by the BBC, children
  can see and even appreciate colors as early as four months old. At
  that age, however, their eyes may not yet be sufficiently developed to
  recognize various shades of color or differentiate dull colors like
  grey and brown."

This doesn't really apply to the sets you've shown which are marketed towards children aged four and over, although it may apply to Duplo sets which are made for younger children.

  "a preference for bright colors may be a result of evolutionary
  developments. Many naturally occurring foods---like tomatoes, apples,
  oranges, bananas and berries---are bright, bold colors when they are
  ripe and ready for consumption. By contrast, almost all fruits turn a
  brown, black or gray color as they pass their readiness for
  consumption and begin to rot."

Here we have another reference to an ingrained biological behaviour, It's probably insignificant considering how the majority of the bricks and the packaging are brightly coloured.

  "adults typically associate bright colors with fun, happy times. For
  this reason, many parents bombard children with brightly colored
  gifts, paint children's rooms bright colors, and deliver marketing and
  entertainment messages to children through the use of brightly colored
  cartoons."

I can't claim to know a thing about psychology but from my experience building models as a child, I know that the focus has always been on building something you can play with. A few gray pieces here and there wouldn't stop me from building a car with psychedelic mixture of colours

Building

Supposing you're a child and you ready to build something from the real world that's both gray and exciting. Well, there are a few animals like elephants, rhinos and wolves you could build but other then that there aren't that many realistic things you could build apart from castle walls, boulders etc... (You are welcome to challenge me on that point)

Manufacturing

Keeping the amount of colours to a minimum, makes the manufacturing process cheaper. Fewer part bins need to be sourced and delivered to the packaging area (although a large part of this process is automated).


Lego Set ID with lime green and grey pieces?

These are parts from

8192-1: Lime Racer

besed on the Slope, Curved 2 x 2 Lip, No Studs with 'RUN' and 'V8' Pattern Model Left (Sticker) - Set 8192

and parts from

7052-1: UFO Abduction

based on the Slope 33 3 x 2 with Alien Insignia Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7052


New ways of connecting levels of multi-story modular buildings

Two ideas I can think of, which are not using "tiles" as such, but similarly flat surfaces:

Technic beams - holes attached to studs of the lower part of the building, and in some holes (which have to be above tiles), pegs/axles for the upper part to fit into.
1x1 "cheese" slopes - and inverted on the upper part (or use regular inverted 33° slopes), which makes the upper part fit in the lower as if in a funnel. (Not very different from using tiles)


What is the best way to create an authentic weatherboard wall?

One option would be to use the relatively new bricks with masonry profile:

If you aren't aware, the reverse side of these bricks includes the horizontal lines but leaves out the vertical ones. This allows you to create something like this:

This solutions provides the advantage of less dense horizontal lines, but being that this is a newer part, it also really limits your color selection.

Your pictures make it look like you are trying to build a white house, which is currently impossible using this part as it isn't available in white. The best that you could do is light gray, which is what I used in my example.

There is a 1x4 version of this part that would make construction much easier and sturdier, but it's only available in medium dark flesh at the moment:

This construction also leaves you with a brick pattern on the inside of your wall. It doesn't sound like this is what you want. One solution would be to create a double wide wall, but that may not be feasible in your case.


How to instruct Mindstorms EV3 from PC conditionally?

If you are running ev3dev on the EV3, you can use RPyC to remotely execute Python code on the EV3.

Resources:

Python-ev3dev. Working with ev3dev remotely using RPyC
EV3 PYthon. RPyC


Does LEGO generally restrict the sale of LEGO sets in a country?

The LEGO Online Store states that it can deliver to:

  Your LEGO® order can be shipped direct to you or a friend/relative in select countries within Europe and even to North America and Asia/Pacific.

The list of shipping locations includes:

I guess they have their reasons for not including Israel in that list - presumably it's either because of excessive handling/customs fees or shipping reliability - I'm guessing that's more the issue rather than other sites being told they can't send LEGO (specifically) to Israel.

I found a guide for eBay sellers planning on shipping to Israel written by a user here which talks more about the customs issues.


Which LEGO Technic sets include instructions to add the Power Functions accessory box?

I recently purchased both 42006 Excavator and 9396 Helicopter, both of which comes with instructions on how to add motors.

The reviews for 9395-1: Pick-Up Tow Truck suggest it can be motorized.

A lot of the more recent Technic models are either too small for a motor or already come with power fuctions.


Can I change the firmware on a Retail EV3 Intelligent brick to the Educational version?

There are indeed two versions of the firmware to support the two sets of capabilities of the EV3 Brick, both currently at version 1.3/1.03:

EV3 Firmware V1.03*H*.bin - The current "Home" edition.
EV3 Firmware V1.03*E*.bin - The current "Education" edition.

From what I've seen, you should be able to use either firmware on the bricks, however to get access to the data logging features you would also need to use the Education version of the software as well:

  LEGO MINDSTORMS Education EV3 Software includes:

  Data logging capabilities so students can log and analyse real-time sensor values.


Cannot add instruction tiles to EV3 brick program.

Large programs can be difficult.

Usually it is better to divide a large program into pieces, where each piece is a MyBlock.

To create a MyBlock, select a group of program blocks and then find the "Create MyBlock ..." from the toolbar.  I think it's at Edit -> Create My Block ...

A series of dialog boxes will appear, complete them and the selected blocks will be stuffed inside the MyBlock, and the program will be altered to use the new MyBlock.  Double click the MyBlock and there will be the program elements that were originally selected.

Practice on a smaller program before attempting on a large program.


Is there an official LEGO brick color reference?

Every color used in LEGO over the years is listed on the official LEGO color chart at Peeron. It also includes CMYK, RGB and Pantone references.


Identify the set from this partially assembled purple and white car with a blue flower sticker on the hood?


What is this long spiked black piece with rubbery orange tip piece used for?

This is part 61406pb04 Plate, Modified 1x2 with Angular Extension and Flexible Orange Tip, which comes in 2 sets:

8076 Deep Sea Striker

70135 Cragger’s Fire Striker


"Creating a Store" article, found on BrickOwl's Help section, explains pretty much the entire process in details.


Can anyone identify these Bionicle sets?

Those appear to be Bionicle figures, a theme that was active from 2001 to 2009 (and making a comeback in 2015, I hear). The line focused on buildable "action figures" (aka "constraction figures").

See here: http://brickset.com/sets/theme-Bionicle


How many standard 2x4 LEGO elements are produced in a single 2x4 mold injection?

I seem to remember it's 2 rows of 8 bricks, with the plastic flow coming in the middle and being distributed in the mould through a pipe running between the two rows, but I can't find any reference for this.

It could very well be that future moulds are optimised to hold more, though, but that's porbably not going to happen unless there's a good reason. Another example I heard is that when they started producing 5L Technic axles, the new mould contained twice as many axles as the one used for 4L axles - with a net result that the 5L axle costs less to produce than the 4L one, which is reflected in set design. You would think they would also replace the 4L axle mould, but considering the price tag of a such a mould, it's not interesting to do so until the mould is at the end of its life (and even then, it may not be worth it to design a new one rather than to just reuse the previous design).

Edit:

Well, I was wrong on it being 2x8, apparently it's 2x12 (or rather 2x2x6):


Has anyone automated the LEGO hand sorting process beyond "pawing & piling"?

I have a fairly large collection.  Processing bricks is a lot more pleasant with my homemade device, which is vaguely similar to the devices above, but made from MDF.

Note that the commercial products have holes that are square, not round, so the size of bricks that is blocked by them is kind of variable.  My sorter has two sorting levels, one with 30mm holes and one with 15mm holes.  Because LEGO bricks are 8mm per stud, nothing 4x4 or over falls through the top level, and nothing 2x2 or over goes through the second.  I could have done 22/23mm holes for 3x3s and 7mm for sub 1x1s, but empirically they're rare pieces and not worth the effort. The holes are laid out in a hexagonal grid, on a sheet of MDF large enough to cover - and fall straight through into - my storage boxes (450mm square, as that's the size the sheets come in).  Spacing of the holes and thickness of the MDF was selected to ensure strength - MDF doesn't distort too much before breaking, and using MDF was important because it's cheap, common and unlikely to damage the bricks.  There are sides to each tray to prevent spillage, and nodes on the underside to lock each layer into the one below.

The hardest part in constructing my sorting trays was finding drill bits for making 30mm and 15mm holes; I found only one 30mm spade bit in my local hardware superstore, and I had to go to a commercial tool supplier for the 15mm bit.  I also needed a new drill, as my existing one couldn't spin slowly enough to make round holes with a spade bit.

So, here's the entire unit; you can see the sides to hold a reasonable amount of LEGO without spilling over:

And here's what LEGO swamping the 30mm holes in the top looks like. Most of the time I'm operating at this level; the second level can contain a large number of pieces given they're so much smaller.

The second level gets the smaller parts falling through while you're pawing through the top tier.  You can see the spacing created by the tall corner posts, this is to allow a 2x16 plate (the longest part I'd expect to process - 128mm) to fall through if it wants too - but typically something that long won't fall from the top level, as its lowest centre of gravity lays it flat and so the great length won't fit through the topmost holes.  If one were to slip into a hole, it could be raked into a position to fall, so about 10% or 20% of pieces as large as this fall through to this level.

The small detritus finds its way to the bottom level

Here you can see the locking nodes that prevent the tiers rotating and moving off the tier below.

Prior to building this I experimented with a number of designs and found that they had a common problem of clogging up.  This experiences that to some extent too, but has a vast number of holes to minimize the impact, and a finger poked up from below can clear the blockage.  Radar dishes and large cones, for example, are good at filling holes.

I do have a tumbler to separate out plates and other small items from bricks, but it requires a lot of work to cause the separation so I wouldn't recommend it as a sorting tool.  I could supply an image for those with an academic interest.

I showed my device at my local LUG, and a year or so later another member went and made his own tennis-racket inspired LEGO sifter. I humbly suggest this device suffers from the same problem with square (or sometimes triangular) holes that the commercial devices exhibit.


What is the first day of the 2011 Star Wars advent calendar supposed to be?

I don't have it, but BrickLink already has inventories of all submodels.

According to them, day 1 is a Republic Cruiser. This is a mini version of 7665 — Republic Cruiser.

They do look quite similar for sets of a such different scale:

Sadly, Wookiepedia doesn't have a picture of a republic-class cruiser, but I suppose that's what it is.


How to use two NXT bricks for 3+ motors and 4+ sensors?

Maybe you should look into using a multiplexer to add additional sensors to an NXT brick.

The Hitechnic Sensor Multiplexer lets you connect 4 sensors using only 1 of the NXT connection.

The same thing can be done with motors. For example using the Mindsensors NXTMMX, you can add 2 additional motors per multiplexer (even better, if you daisy-chain the multiplexers together you can control more motors than you'll ever need)


It is about color and length

The Duplo action brick uses a color sensor, so you want to use the correct colors
and it needs the length of the brick for the sensor to determine the color.

paper replacement (youtube)

How to 3d print your own


I have a 16x16 stud clear base plate. Where is it from?

Any of these three sets

(AKA:
6162-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 4 in 1
6163-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 9 in 1
852676 Travel Game - Multi Game Pack 9-in-1)

Probably.

Bricklink hint: just search for a size, like "16 x 16". "3x3 plate" is fun too.


Programming The Lego Mindstorms T-Rex from EV3 Laboratory

According the book the last input of the MyBlock is a Logic input, instead of a Number (default setting).

Make sure you changed it to Logic and try it again.


Which wheels are suitable for Power Functions M-Motor

The M-motor is directly compatible with almost all the wheels that LEGO has produced, and, with a little building, compatible with every wheel imaginable, even brick-built wheels.

If your problem is that the wheel is smaller than the diameter of the M motor, perhaps you want to attach the wheels to an axle, and then drive the axle with the motor.  There are many different gearing solutions variations that would accomplish this.

If you need to purchase one or more wheels, Bricklink is a great site to buy individual bricks.


https://www.lego.com/en-us/themes/mindstorms/downloads

Scroll a bit down and you'll find two apple icons.

The left one will work for macOS 10.15 (Catalina) or newer, and is with what you describe slender blocks. It's similar to the Scratch educational programming environment.
The software is "pre-release" so might still have some kinks in it.

The right one is the older software with the blocks you are used to.
HOWEVER it will NOT work on macOS 10.15 or later.

Rather than porting their existing application to 10.15, LEGO has decided to spend their resources on the new app. Unfortunate decision in my opinion.


Fan door does not close completely - Air Race Jet

I don't have this model.  Never built it, but thanks to Youtube we can understand with moving pictures the frustration, and build fatigue you might feel.

JANGBRiCKS says:

  "It's one of those builds where you need to get everything exactly
  right the first time.  Penalty for making any sort of mistake is very
  very high and there are many things that are left incomplete for long
  periods time as you're building up the functions inside of this.

  The main build of all of the gears, and all of the levers, all of the beams,
  and everything that connect together, ultimately, very very late in the game,
  late in the process of building to form the functions that are all
  powered by a single motor."

Think Loud's video review and speed build, is similar to your issue, where his fap door doesn't close properly, and he has to manually pop it down too.  So, I see what you mean, Bro.

I'll take your word that all connections are good, so we're not gonna think it's, an

  "artifact of a mistake elsewhere."

(Luv how you said that!)

So, in trusting you, I think your build is right instruction-wise, but our engineering insight could use a slight twist here and there.

So, in this Vertical Take-Off and Landing mode, we see:

Top blue flap comes up.
Two bottom blue flaps spread open.
Rear gray exhaust nozzle drops down.
Two black flaps on back of wings that turn down.

For all of these features to work properly, you have to go back to your build, and manually turn each section, or gear torque completely to position "0" of VTOL mode.

So, if one or more is off, even slightly, it will affect the total length of deployment, and retraction of the others.

I can only imagine one of the features positioned too early hitting a physical wall, or space constraint, causing the other features not to fully complete their run.

You did mentioned the top gap, bottom gaps, and misaligned tail engine. Yes, they're all related to the VTOL feature so, if one is off, they're all gonna be off.

Try this out, and hit us back with your results.

My source videos:

LEGO instructions - Technic - 42066 - Air Race Jet. by LEGO
instructions - Fan - Site.
Lego Technic 42066 Air Race Jet - Lego Speed Build and Review by
Think Louder.
LEGO Technic Air Race Jet 42066 review! by JANGBRiCKS.


Help identifying Star Wars and maybe one another set(s)

The top left picture is a fragment of set #9442 "Jay's Storm Fighter".
The top right looks like another fragment of set #9442.
The bottom picture is the base of set #75053 "The Ghost".


Pick-A-Brick orders are shipped from Denmark so they take longer, and they also need more processing time. In my experience they take 2 weeks to arrive. I'm in the USA. Hope this helps.


Assembly A comes from 75103-1: First Order Transporter

See instructions 75103-1 page=30

Assembly C is from page 65
(thanks @ LegoSonicBoy)


What does this symbol on the EV3 Brick mean?

You either have to recharge your battery (if you're using a battery pack) or replace the batteries (if you're using normal batteries). If this symptom persists after charging the battery pack, try to do a master reset on the brick. Failing which, you might have to replace the battery pack.


What is the writing on this map tile, originally from Indiana Jones sets?

I have this piece, and I don't believe there is enough detail in the printing to see what this says. I'm also fairly certain this isn't intended to be actual text, but just to look like words. Here's a higher resolution image of that piece:

I believe there is too much bleed to make out words at this scale. Mine certainly isn't legible even under high magnification.

However, there is a clue as to what this piece was meant to say if there were proper text printed on it. This appears to be a page from the diary prop from Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade. I believe that TLG based the printing for this part off of the following map:

This map is seen in the DVD special features for The Last Crusade, and is known as the "Map with no names".

Again, I don't believe this is meant be the actual text, particularly because this piece appeared later in unlicensed sets, so it isn't just an Indiana Jones part.


Yeah... It happened to me this very day...

SOLUTION:

One of the following always does it (listed in descending order of effectiveness):

Relaunch the EV3 Software (Be sure to save your work!)
Use a Download Cable instead of Bluetooth
The EV3 Software messes up on Windows 10; try using an older PC.
Restart the brick.
Restart the computer.
Try turning bluetooth on and off


LEGO Power Function PF 2.0 specification

I'm not sure exactly what you are looking for in terms of a spec, but here's the pinout from the Eurobricks thread mentioned by Alexander O'Mara with some help from this post:
Pin 1 - Motor
Pin 2 - Motor
Pin 3 - GND (0v)
Pin 4 - VCC (3.3v)
Pin 5 - ID 1 (UART TX for active devices)
Pin 6 - ID 2 (UART RX for active devices)

The basic spec for motors is that they are given continuous 3.3V power on pins 3 and 4, voltages to drive the motor on pins 1 and 2, and pins 5 and 6 are used to identify the type of motor that is attached. For the basic motors, I believe that this is simply a known resistance between pins 5 and 6.


How many spaceman minifigure variations exist?

A full list of space related minifigures can be found on Bricklink here as well as under the Town theme. If you count fantasy themes there are also many astronaut minifigures under Alien Conquest, Blacktron, Life on Mars, Mars Mission, Space Police, etc...

There is also the Spaceman from the 1st Collectible Minifigure series.


Help identifying Lego bricks from a picture for a Geocache

The flat plate with hooks, on the left of the image, appears to be Tile, Modified, 3 x 2 with 2 Open O clips
Without an image from another angle, it is hard to tell what the connection on the other side might be - it could be Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 2 Open O Clips (Horizontal Grip), or perhaps a pair of Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Clip on End (Horizontal Grip), but it could equally be something completely different.

After a quick Reverse Image Search, I found this set for sale on Geocaching.com with images of other angles, including the Bag of Parts - and this model appears to use a pair of LegoPlate, Modified 1 x 1 with Open O Clip (Horizontal Grip), instead


What set does this assembly with plastic foils come from?

This is from 76039-1: Ant-Man Final Battle


That's Train Direction Switch - 4.5V 2 x 3


What are some free kid-friendly tutorials to get started with Mindstorms Nxt 2.0?

You can find some free instructions at http://www.nxtprograms.com/ and at http://thenxtstep.blogspot.com/p/building-instructions.html. But I am not sure if you can say they are kid-friendly.

And here is another one:  http://legoengineering.com/curriculum-submenuteachingresources-142.html


If you have access to some Duplo elements, these make good "bulking" blocks for larger terrain sections - as the 2x2 and larger bricks fit over the top of the duplo studs you can build a fairly stable base using those, and then work on the sides and top with System elements as needed.

Otherwise it comes down to sensible building techniques such as starting with larger blocks, overlapping them correctly so that each layer provides support to the ones around it.

There's a good answer on how to build a large structure for transport, which talks about using Technic bricks and pins to connect the sections together, as well as the answer on connecting levels of a multi-story building using tiles and jumpers or 1x1 plates to provide some grip while still enabling access inside.


Is there a way to convert .ev3 files to .uf2 files?

The .UF2 file format appears to be a fairly compact, binary format for reliably transferring data to "microcontrollers" (i.e. small embedded systems such as the EV3 controller), and is the format used by the Microsoft MakeCode application, recommended as part of the First LEGO League.

The .ev3 file is actually a zip file containing a number of additional files, of which the .ev3p is an XML file representing the program itself.

At this time there isn't an official way to convert .ev3 programs to the .uf2 format, not least because things like custom blocks will need to be re-written in JavaScript, and certain other features may not be currently supported (i.e. data logging beyond console logging, 3rd party sensors, etc.).


Does LEGO Digital Designer include part 4539880?

Yes, but only one color choice of light bluish gray is available in the default mode.


Program just stops motors and won't move


Which set did this sealed bag of mostly grey LEGO bricks come from?

As I mentioned in my comment to OP's original question, this is an inner bag of a larger set, not a full set. It is a bit hard to tell which set it could be, as the pieces are too common to narrow it down from just one image. I did look up the 3x4 hinge-plate, as that was the most uncommon, but it still appears in 45 sets: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=44570&colorID=86&in=A

Upon more careful inspection, and narrowing down the pieces even further, it appears that this is the gray/black bag from the #10702 LEGO Classic Creative Building set: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=10702-1#T=S&O=

I came to this conclusion by verifying some of the other pieces in the set from the BrickLink Catalog, and also noticing that the 23mm D. x 7mm Offset Tread Black Tire only appears in the above mentioned LEGO Classic set from the list of 45 sets with the 3x4 hinge-plate.


Reinforcing a pair of Bent Double 11.5 Liftarms under Rotational Tension

The replacement part is available in trans clear plastic, I would suggest using them to either replace the existing beams or be connected to either side. It will be a bit cheaper if you decide to use white beams instead.
The poor quality of the clone brand pieces is one thing, but I think you might want to consider tackling the issue of weight. If you are already happy with making modifications to the structure, consider removing or substituting some of the pieces in the floating castle.

Perhaps in addition to any modifications I would also suggest using a clear fast-setting super glue.
I use Loctite Clear Super Glue to adhere tips to my pool cue and it can last well until the tip has worn down. It is best to roughen up the surface a bit before applying the glue so that it adheres better.
Make sure you only glue the pieces and not the actual connections if you want to be able to dissemble the model. Give the glue plenty of time to set without putting any tension or compression on the joint.
The result will be nearly invisible, and may could even be stronger than the original beams depending on the quality of plastic used.


Parts for "Simple Machine" book by Isogawa-san?

There was a lot there, but the very last sentence from your Amazon link mentions to visit the No Starch Press website for a list of the special parts used in the book.

There the website includes all three books from the author's
 LEGO Technic series:

The LEGO Technic Idea Book: Simple Machines. (Digital PDF of book here.)
The LEGO Technic Idea Book: Wheeled Wonders.
The LEGO Technic Idea Book: Fantastic Contraptions.

All with a few set recommendations directly from the author, where he suggests sets that have a wide range of parts in single set purchases.

For parts left over, he offers a reference list with colored pictures of each part, and purchasing links to Bricklink.com.


Depends very much what you mean by "strong".

Vertical crush resistance would be highest as the Lego house people did it because that gives a continuous vertical wall down the edge of each stack of bricks. Offsetting as you suggest means that the edges of each brick are resting on the flat top of the brick below. If they needed to link the bricks horizontally they would either use a row of 2xN bricks or a later of plates. Plates would be heavier and more expensive but somewhat stronger, if wall spreading was an issue (which it did not seem to be in the show).

For beams layered plates would be ideal, possibly in a traditional C or I beam shape, with something to hold the layers of plates together. The easy option there is a layer of Technic bricks top and bottom with Technic liftarms or beams linking them.

For catenary members (like suspension bridge "cables") I'd follow the teams in Australia who have obviously done a lot of research and experimentation, and go with Technic liftarms joined with half-width liftarms and axles.

If instead you're looking at a MythBusters-style giant Lego ball and you want that to stay intact as it rolls then many layers of plates would be useful (the MythBusters ball was made of big Lego-brick bricks, IIRC about 24x48 studs and perhaps 10 or 12 layers tall. It fell apart quickly (and so did not do much damage to anything). For that you would probably also want to use some technic bricks with axles linking them to make internal 3D tension members to hold it together. But you will end up with a tonne of Lego rolling down a hill in that case... not necessarily a good idea.


Is there a website that has close-up pictures of minifigs?

Brickset.com has minifies entries for the majority of sets. here's an example.

http://brickset.com/sets/60120-1

Click on the minifigs tab. Some are on a plain white background, some not.

There's also heaps on BrickLink.com

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogTree.asp?itemType=M


Are these parts from one set, lots of related sets or just a big messy jumble?

They are definitely not from a single set, as the 16x16 yellow plate was only ever sold in Friends sets, that do not contain any Technic track pieces.

Another telltale sign is the transparent orange Brick with Shaft 1x8x1, whose only occurrence is in a few Star Wars podracer and Alpha Team sets from 1999-2001, none of which has any propeller pieces.

The first picture contains a black turbine insert with many blades, this was sold in many unrelated sets across the years.


Website with layout plans for LEGO Duplo trains?

I'm not aware of any sites that are dedicated to DUPLO train layouts, but there are certainly interesting layout ideas out there. For example, this was included in set 2932:

There are also loads of great creations in this Pinterest category:


Where to find this green transparent brick?

Your brick appears to be trans-neon-green, an extremely rare color for 2x4 bricks. It never appeared in any set and it is only traded between collectors. You would be paying over $50 for a brick like that if you are lucky enough to find it. It would probably be best to pick another color, or another brick-size for your project. Trans-neon-green also comes in 1x2 size, which is more readily available.


Why doesn't my LEGO Micropython remote control program work?

You can get community support for Pybricks at https://github.com/pybricks/support.
ir.buttons(1) returns a list of pressed buttons, so in this particular program
if ir.buttons(1) == Button.BEACON:

needs to be changed to
 if Button.BEACON in ir.buttons(1):

This will test if item is in list.


Can you identify these column decorators?

Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Scroll with Hollow Stud

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=20310&idColor=2


This appears to part# 30171 Minifigure, Headgear Cap, Aviator

In black it appears in 118 sets.

However, I checked with my helmet from Robo Pilot
and that one has a LEGO marking on the inside, yours could be a older mold though.

Edit, I also have one with a 7 marking inside , no logo, so I would assume it is from an older mold.


Where can I find LDraw files to download for basic figures?

This answer will by definition have a lot of links, but here we go. Since you're looking for instructions there are a few sites that you should consider visiting.

The first is Cubiculus, which specializes in creating LDraw versions of custom and official instructions. The creator of the site adds plenty of his own (basic) instructions.

The second is Rebrickable. It contains many creations by various builders, and some provide LDraw files for you to download. The instructions are usually quite advanced, however.

Lastly, you could put together your own LDraw files from LEGOs basic sets. The biggest consolidated collection of instructions is available on Swooshable. (Full disclosure - it's my own scraper that consolidates set instructions from the five biggest sources on the web. I built it to not have to check different sites for a particular instruction.)

Hopefully that'll get you on the right track.


The All Us Geeks podcast regularly has a segment on LEGO called the Brick Breakdown that is run by William and Sarah Reed. Here is the link to the latest episode (scroll down to see when the Brick Breakdown section starts): http://www.allusgeeks.com/2015/08/episode-60-dead-men-tell-no-tales/

My guess is that because LEGO is so hands-on and so visual, it is kind of hard to run a fully dedicated podcast about it. William and his wife mainly talk about things like the history of LEGO, investing in LEGO, etc. That's pretty much all you can do through a podcast.


Lego Pneumatic Engine: Possible Damage from Baking Soda and Vinegar?

I see two main problems that need to be adressed here.

Intrusion of liquids into the pneumatic system
Intrusion of solid particles into the pneumatic system

To filter out solid particles, namely baking soda, a fine mesh could be used, either alone or in multiple layers.

To get rid of droplets, some absorbing material such as cotton could be inserted before, after or rather between the layers of mesh.

So if we can suppose that the bottle will have an exit point that is always clear from the liquid-solid phase (based on your comment "with hose connections in the cap"), we can imagine the following filter system built inside a small diameter tube (like a plastic straw), where # denotes layers of fine mesh fixed inside the pipe, capable of holding back both baking soda dust and the loose cotton swabs:

 ________________________________________
/                                        \
|                                         \
|                                          \
|                                           \___
|                                               |
|            #cotton#cotton#cotton#cotton#======+
|                                            ___|
|------------------------------------------ /
|    o     8      O   Ö    *     0    .    /
|  °    vinegar + baking soda   :    ö    /
\________________________________________/

Or if you need to fill the bottle more than halfway, but can ensure that the sloshing will not reach the top of the laying bottle, then you might be able to use a doubly-bent straw:

 ________________________________________
/                                        \
|        #cotton#cotton#cotton#cotton#=\  \
|                                      \\  \
|                                       \\  \___
|----------------------------------------\\-----|
|  :         *           ö                \=====+
|       o      Ö    0        8     O    .    ___|
|   °                 Ö                     /
|    o     8      O        *     0    .    /
|  °    vinegar + baking soda   :    ö    /
\________________________________________/

But as MaxW has noted on your question over at Chemistry.SE:

  You won't get pure CO2 out of an aqueous solution. There will be water vapor in the CO2.

So your metal parts will definitely be exposed to a (probably highly diluted) carbonic acid, that "can corrode, rust or pit steel but the extent of those effects depends upon the chemical composition of the steel. Stainless steel, in contrast, resists general corrosion caused by carbonic acid." (Source)

How fast of how much will the parts be corroded? I can't find a definitive answer for that, but in the end, it all comes down to three, highly variable factors:

The exact composition of the steel used in your pistons (pretty much unknowable, especially since the particular pistons are about 20 years old)
The concentration of carbonic acid in the generated stream of CO2 (depends on the filter, the water content of the vinegar used and probably other factors as well)
The duration of exposure (that can be minimized by applying the cleaning steps outlined in your question, but consider that rinsing with water brings another set of problems, like limescale or rusting - so if I were you, I'd skip step 2 and only run it on warm, dry air to remove any moisture from the system)

Looking forward to read your experience!


Is there a program to tell me if a specific parts list is available in a given colour?

If you're up for a bit of programming, Rebrickable.com has an API that can query part+colour and return matching sets.

Get Part Sets
Use this service to get a list of all sets that a specific part/color combination appears in. This is best used after calling the get_part function to retrieve the list of available colors.
URL    /api/get_part_sets
Method    GET
Parameters    key - API Key
part_id - The Part ID to look up (e.g. 3001)
color_id - The LDRAW based Color ID to look up (e.g. 0 = black)
format - How to display output data. Valid values: xml, json
Returns   INVALIDKEY - The API Key is invalid
NOPART - The part/color could not be found or has no sets
 Output data.


How to connect fire to Lord Business' Coffee Mugs?

They might have cheated in the movie, but an old 8 toothed gear fits snugly in the hole.


Instructions or details for the buildings in Set 190

The instructions for that model are not included in the set.1

Youtube user BrickTsar LEGO® Collector rebuilt the model using the box as reference. The image below shows a screenshot from the video linked at the end of this post, it might be clearer to you how it was built.

The model he made isn't an exact like for like copy of the model shown on the set, but is very close. It is possible you won't use all the pieces provided in  the set but it's worth checking that you have all the parts needed before you start using the inventory provided on Bricklink.

1 Youtube. LEGO 190 Building Set With People Farm Set from 1975 VINTAGE. Time: 1:58.


What LEGO clone brand are these with 4-peg studs?

They look similar to Arckit, but the "stud" placement is different.
Perhaps you have a picture of an earlier design?

https://www.dezeen.com/2015/05/24/architect-modelling-system-arckit-posh-lego-damien-murtagh/
https://us.arckit.com/


What are the electrical properties of electric LEGO systems?

This is a big question, but here are some of the basics:

The original 4.5V system worked with 3 x 1.5V C cells. It was produced between 1966 an 1986 and was used to power motors and lights in a wide variety of trains, technic, basic and even DUPLO sets.

Coexisting with this system, a 12V standard for LEGO Trains was introduced in 1969 and produced until 1993. The power was supplied by DC Transformer. There is no electrical compatibility between 12V and 4.5V components, and the higher voltage can damage the lower-rated parts. In addition to motors and lights, an assortment of other 12V accessories were available such as automatic switch points. The 12V system had two wires or three wires for track switches.

9V became the LEGO standard in the early 90s. There were a several different power sources, such as a single 9V battery, 6x 1.5V batteries and a DC Transformer (used exclusively for trains). The 9V system is electrically incompatible with either the 4.5V or 12V systems, but as I understand it, 9V components are electrically compatible with each other. 9V was a 2-wire system. Philo's web site provides electrical details of a variety of 9V motors.

For trains, the RC system was introduced in 2006, the previous 9V system being phased out the following year. The RC system was again a 2-wire 9V system.

Power Functions (PF) use a 4-wire system, the outer two wires providing power and the inner two control functions. Once again, it is nominally a 9V system, although it will cope with some variation to accommodate various types of batteries. For example, the 88000 AAA Battery Box uses 6 x AAA to supply up to about 9.6V and up to to 800mA current, depending on the batteries used, whereas the 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box delivers 7.4 V at up to 1.1A (?).

The first generation of Mindstorms, the RCX generation, was again based on 9V. The original 1.0 version could be powered using a 10V DC transformer, but later versions took 6xAA batteries. It used standard LEGO 2-wire 9V connectors. When powered, the sensor inputs can supply power (at a bit less than 9V). More details of the electrical characteristics of these ports can be found in Claude Baumann's Making Your Own RCX Sensors. The same sensor interfaces were also used on the earlier and less well-known Lego DACTA Interface B but unlike on the RCX powered and unpowered sensors used different ports on the Interface B (this is why powered and unpowered sensors were different colours).

The Mindstorms NXT system is a 6-wire system. Two wires retained the 9V motor and sensor systems from the RCX while the other four provided tachometer functionality on the motor ports and a digital sensor interface on the sensor ports.

The Mindstorms EV3 uses the same 6-wire connectors as the NXT but additional functionality and a auto-detect system were added. Unfortunately in doing this they broke compatibility with 2-wire devices.

Interconnecting different 9V systems.

Lego sold (now discontinued) an adaptor cable for going from the NXT to the old 9V connector. This allowed old 9V motors and RCX sensors to be used with the NXT. It also allowed NXT motors to be powered from a 9V source (obviously losing the tachometer functionality) and the NXT touch sensor to be used with a RCX or Interface B.

Unfortunately this cable doesn't work correctly with the EV3, see How to use Power Functions with Mindstorms EV3? and Use legacy RCX sensors with EV3 for more discussion and possible workarounds.

Lego sell an extension/adaptor cable that can be used to supply old 9V devices from a power functions source. It can also be used to supply ordinary power functions motors from an old 9V source but not to supply power functions IR receivers or server motors. See Does the LEGO "Power Functions Extension Wire" (8886) work in both directions between old 9V and new Power Functions devices? for more details.

Lego did not sell a direct adaptor for connecting the NXT to power functions motors, this can be achieved either by combining the two adaptors mentioned above or by making a custom cable.

Right, that's a start. Please edit this answer to add additional information.


Is there any legit positive impact of LEGO on mental health?

Yes.

Here is a study that demonstrates one way to use LEGO in ADHD counseling.

If you are looking for a more rigorous outcomes-focused methodology, there's another study that looked at the impact of LEGO on social skills development in children. It found significant improvement compared to the control in a pre-test, post-test study.

If your interested in the developmental side of LEGO, here's a study that shows a correlation between complex LEGO play in 3 and 4 year olds and their secondary school mathematics achievement.

On the adult side, here's a study that shows a decrease in workplace stress after a group LEGO activity.

I'm sure there are loads more, but that's what a quick search on Google Scholar turned up.


What do factory markings on the inside of DUPLO pieces mean?

The markings are the Batch number and element id.


You can use the Loop Interrupt block. Just make sure the name used in the Loop Interrupt block matches the name of the loop inside of the My Block.


After a bit of research, it looks like this is a new part for 2018.

The part that it is likely replacing is the old flower petal with stud connections:

Old: New:

The new part has 5 petals instead of 4, and they are shorter so that they don't collide with neighboring parts at any angle. New Elementary did a writeup on the new flower parts that includes an image to highlight this:

Both parts include the interior flower stem connector so that they can be used with either the new or recently redesigned flower stem.


Mindstorms EV3 education 1.4.2 for Windows crashes when opening second project

If the same project crashes your software on multiple installations, the problem is the project file itself. Sometimes files get corrupted. Unfortunately the only real solution is to recreate your project.


Does the Mario Starter Course require a smart device?

Yes, a smart device is required. The box says the following:

Smart device required but not included

However, this set is not like Boost, where the intelligent brick just adds weight to your model without a smart device. Mario functions without being paired to a smart device. He can complete the course, collect coins, etc.
The most significant limitation without a smart device is that you can't update the firmware on Mario. The current factory firmware is fairly limited. It was missing several of the sound effects present in the current firmware, but most importantly, the factory firmware was able to recognize elements in the starter course only. Any elements from expansion sets were not recognized, and Mario would display the Bluetooth icon indicating that a firmware update is needed instead of taking the expected action:

This is resolved by pairing Mario once with a smart device. These features are then permanently available without the need for a smart device to be present.
Another important limitation for many sets like this that require a smart device is that there are no paper instructions in the box. Instructions are certainly helpful, but these sets are meant to be adjusted and rebuilt. The courses are made of very simple elements that you can likely put together by looking at the box. This might be challenging for a small child, but if an adult is willing to help out, it is possible to put these together without the on-device instructions.


I've used white nylon rope / string for my Lego bridges.  When I think of twine I think of the tannish, brownish, rough, fraying type of string.  The nylon stuff is cleaner and in my humble opinion appears sharper.  A Lego purist would not allow any non-Lego element in a creation, but when it comes to suspension bridges, there are very few options.  I've viewed the use of plates (typically 1 X 6 , 8 , 10, etc.) for the main cables and suspenders, but this takes away from the cable feel and appears more like an eyebar suspension system - which were used before the invention of wire cables, but no major suspension bridge built in the past 140 years uses eyebars.

As for your issue with the leaning Technic beams... I'm unable to visualize the problem.
Could the Technic beams be leaning due to the pull of the twine? That is if the twine is not going straight vertically to the maincables above then there may be a pull on the Technic beams away from true with that of the plates.

A good tower to span ratio seems to be 1:10 and that is tower above the roadway as what is below the roadway is irrelevant, with ship clearance the contributing factor there.  Example... the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge in Japan has towers that are ~975 feet high.  The roadway at mid-span is ~320 feet above the water.  That makes for the tower above deck of ~655 feet.  The span of the AKB is 6,532 feet. This is close to the 1:10 ratio. The Golden Gate is a bit different with towers ~750 feet high and a deck height of ~220 feet.  That makes 530 feet of tower above deck and the span is 4,200 feet.  Now we're down to 1:8.  The difference is the steel in the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge's cable is much stronger due to advances in the 50+ years since the Golden Gate and thus shorter towers could then be built. The shorter the towers the more tension on the cables. Had the steel in the main cables stayed the same strength, then the towers for the  AKB would then had to have been at least 150 feet higher.

Here is a link to photos of two lego bridges I've built: http://www.flickr.com/photos/suspensionstayed/sets/72157610808577323/


Pirates of Barracuda Bay 21322 - Is there a way to get the ship pirating-worthy?

The review over at Brickset mentions this exact modification:

  Pearl gold windows are fixed inside each gunport, preventing the deployment of cannons. While this seems slightly odd, the lattices can be removed and replaced with cannons, as demonstrated here. I appreciate these options but some furniture must be removed from inside to create enough space for the weapons, corresponding with the officers' quarters on historic ships where cannons could replace tables and chairs during battle.

(Emphasis by me)


Castle set identification (photo from 1993)

I have identified a unique part, to help with search - Panel 2 x 5 x 6 Wall with Window with Window Stones Light Gray Pattern which has been used here.

It has been used in just two sets listed seen below, none of which look like your model
Black Monarch's Castle (6085) from 1988:

Black Knight's Castle (6086) from 1992:

So it seems like someone made a great MOC back in the days!


How can I make a spiral staircase with basic blocks at right angles?

Based on the limited brick options, and the "it needs to be solid" constraint, I present my "Minecraft Spiral Stair" in LEGO form, and to provide "inifite height", I've gone for a "hung" support option:

Start with two 2x2, a 2x4 and a 2x6 in this configuration:

Add more steps as you need rotating around the lower 2x2 brick:

(Key: Yellow: 2x2, Blue: 2x4, White: 2x6)


The Black Horse, Skeletal with White Eyes Pattern (Thestral) from the Harry Potter / Fantastic Beasts set "Grindelwald's Escape" has a "saddle" section which is 2x2, instead of 1x2.

This would allow you to connect use both Wings a MiniFig, each using 1x2.  However, it doesn't exactly look like a regular horse:

Or, potentially, you could try combining Horse Saddle with Two Clips with a pair of either Bar 1L with Clip Mechanical Claw or Arm Piece with Tow Ball and Clip, to rotate the connection from Vertical to Horizontal, and connect wings to that.  I am not sure if there is enough clearance at the sides of the saddle to orient these correctly though.


Is there a way to buy LEGO houses without minifigs?

LEGO Friends are essentially the same as minifigs when it comes to building things like houses. The main difference is the colour palette. If you don't mind that your Friends live in houses that use primary colours instead of pastels, you can just buy any regular Lego house (the Creator line has many) and put Friends in there. Previous houses from the Creator line from 2007-2010 did not include any minifigures, but current houses typically do include some minifigs. Feel free to mix them with the Friends mini-dolls or keep them in storage or give them away if you want.

You can also download the instructions for any existing model and the recreate it using Friends-coloured bricks if you prefer to use those colours.

If you're curious about sets that might be available now that feature houses, Brickset allows you to search sets tagged "house" or sets containing the word "house" in the name. You can sort the list by year of release in descending order, to show you sets more likely to be available in stores.

Some houses that were for sale in 2014:

31012 Family House

7346 Seaside House

10228 Haunted House


Power Function IR Remote always emitting after putting batteries

The Lego Company is usually very good about replacing broken and defective parts for free.  In the case of expensive electronic parts such as this, in my experience, they will sometimes request you send them the broken/defective one.  If this is the case, they will make it easy for you and send everything you need to do so with your replacement.  Because this part is still made/sold, there is a good chance they will make it right.

If this solution doesn't work out for you then you could try fixing it.  I would recommend taking it apart, if you have the tools, and look for any obvious signs of contaminants, over-heating, breakage, etc.  If there aren't any obvious issues then try storing the electronics in a bag of rice for a couple days to absorb any moisture in them.  If none of these things work then you are probably going to need a new one.


Can additional MyBlock icons be added to the EV3 palette of icons available in the MyBlock builder?

Go to the directory

(for home edition) c:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Software\LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition\Resources\MyBlocks\images\
(for edu version) c:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Software\LEGO MINDSTORMS Edu EV3\Resources\MyBlocks\images\

And create a group of 3 icons for each new icon:

PolyGroup_NNN_NAME_Diagram.png [size 34x34] - visible in the diagram
PolyGroup_NNN_NAME_Palette.png [size 25x25] - visible in the command palette
PolyGroup_NNN_NAME_Palette_MouseOver.png [size 25x25] - visible in the command palette while moving the mouse over the icon

Where

NNN is a next available number (98 icons already installed), so continue with 098
NAME - use some name

Restart the SW and open MyBlock builder, you will find the added icon.

It will not work, if you open your code on another EV3 installation without your modifications.


Update:

I have written a tool to disassemble EV3 programs. The EV3 software compiles the .ev3 file to a .rbf file and sends that to the EV3 brick. The disassembler can convert the .rbf file into a .lms file, which is a sort of assembly language that can be used to create programs for the EV3.

Here is a simple example using a trivial .ev3 project.

To create the .rbf file, we have to download the program to an EV3 brick. Then we can upload the .rbf file from the brick using the Memory Browser.

Running the disassembler on the .rbf file will result in this:

    // Disassembly of C:\Users\david\Desktop\Program.rbf
    //
    // Byte code version: 0.57

    DATA8 GLOBAL0
    DATA8 GLOBAL1
    DATA8 GLOBAL2
    DATA8 GLOBAL3
    DATA8 GLOBAL4
    DATA8 GLOBAL5
    DATA8 GLOBAL6
    DATA8 GLOBAL7
    DATA8 GLOBAL8
    DATA8 GLOBAL9
    DATA8 GLOBAL10
    DATA8 GLOBAL11
    DATA8 GLOBAL12
    DATA8 GLOBAL13
    DATA8 GLOBAL14
    DATA8 GLOBAL15
    DATA8 GLOBAL16
    DATA8 GLOBAL17
    DATA8 GLOBAL18
    DATA8 GLOBAL19
    DATA8 GLOBAL20

    vmthread OBJECT1
    {
            DATA8 LOCAL0
            DATA8 LOCAL1
            DATA8 LOCAL2
            DATA8 LOCAL3
            DATA8 LOCAL4

    OFFSET1_0:
            OUTPUT_RESET(0,15)
    OFFSET1_3:
            INPUT_DEVICE(CLR_ALL,-1)
    OFFSET1_6:
            MOVE32_32(0,LOCAL0)
    OFFSET1_9:
            ADD32(GLOBAL12,1,GLOBAL12)
    OFFSET1_13:
            MOVE8_8(GLOBAL20,LOCAL4)
    OFFSET1_16:
            ADD32(GLOBAL8,1,GLOBAL8)
    OFFSET1_20:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL4,OFFSET1_29)
    OFFSET1_23:
            ADD32(LOCAL0,1,LOCAL0)
    OFFSET1_27:
            JR(OFFSET1_9)
    OFFSET1_29:
            ADD32(GLOBAL4,1,GLOBAL4)
    OFFSET1_33:
            CALL(OBJECT2,1123418112,0,1117126656,1065353216,0,1)
    OFFSET1_58:
            ADD32(GLOBAL0,1,GLOBAL0)
    }

    subcall OBJECT2
    {
            IN_F LOCAL0
            IN_F LOCAL4
            IN_F LOCAL8
            IN_F LOCAL12
            IN_32 LOCAL16
            IN_8 LOCAL20

            DATA8 LOCAL21
            DATA8 LOCAL22
            DATA8 LOCAL23
            DATA8 LOCAL24
            DATA8 LOCAL25
            DATA8 LOCAL26
            DATA8 LOCAL27
            DATA8 LOCAL28
            DATA8 LOCAL29
            DATA8 LOCAL30
            DATA8 LOCAL31
            DATA8 LOCAL32
            DATA8 LOCAL33
            DATA8 LOCAL34
            DATA8 LOCAL35
            DATA8 LOCAL36
            DATA8 LOCAL37
            DATA8 LOCAL38
            DATA8 LOCAL39
            DATA8 LOCAL40
            DATA8 LOCAL41
            DATA8 LOCAL42
            DATA8 LOCAL43
            DATA8 LOCAL44
            DATA8 LOCAL45
            DATA8 LOCAL46
            DATA8 LOCAL47
            DATA8 LOCAL48
            DATA8 LOCAL49
            DATA8 LOCAL50
            DATA8 LOCAL51
            DATA8 LOCAL52
            DATA8 LOCAL53
            DATA8 LOCAL54
            DATA8 LOCAL55
            DATA8 LOCAL56
            DATA8 LOCAL57
            DATA8 LOCAL58
            DATA8 LOCAL59
            DATA8 LOCAL60
            DATA8 LOCAL61
            DATA8 LOCAL62
            DATA8 LOCAL63
            DATA8 LOCAL64
            DATA8 LOCAL65
            DATA8 LOCAL66

    OFFSET2_7:
            CP_EQF(LOCAL12,0,LOCAL66)
    OFFSET2_12:
            MOVE32_32(GLOBAL16,LOCAL36)
    OFFSET2_16:
            AND32(LOCAL16,LOCAL36,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET2_22:
            CP_GT32(LOCAL48,0,LOCAL65)
    OFFSET2_28:
            OR8(LOCAL66,LOCAL65,LOCAL64)
    OFFSET2_35:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL64,1,OFFSET2_45)
    OFFSET2_40:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL64,0,OFFSET2_48)
    OFFSET2_45:
            JR(OFFSET2_139)
    OFFSET2_48:
            MULF(LOCAL12,360.0F,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET2_56:
            CALL(OBJECT3,LOCAL0,LOCAL8,LOCAL24,LOCAL4,LOCAL58,LOCAL60,LOCAL20)
    OFFSET2_68:
            MOVE32_32(LOCAL16,LOCAL52)
    OFFSET2_72:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL60,LOCAL59)
    OFFSET2_77:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL58,LOCAL57)
    OFFSET2_82:
            MOVE32_32(0,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET2_86:
            MOVE32_32(GLOBAL16,LOCAL40)
    OFFSET2_90:
            AND32(LOCAL52,LOCAL40,LOCAL32)
    OFFSET2_97:
            CP_GT32(LOCAL32,0,LOCAL62)
    OFFSET2_103:
            OUTPUT_TEST(LOCAL57,LOCAL59,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET2_110:
            CP_EQ8(LOCAL56,0,LOCAL61)
    OFFSET2_116:
            OR8(LOCAL61,LOCAL62,LOCAL63)
    OFFSET2_123:
            SLEEP()
    OFFSET2_124:
            JR_TRUE(LOCAL63,OFFSET2_137)
    OFFSET2_128:
            ADD32(LOCAL44,1,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET2_134:
            JR(OFFSET2_86)
    OFFSET2_137:
            JR(OFFSET2_139)
    OFFSET2_139:
    }

    subcall OBJECT3
    {
            IN_F LOCAL0
            IN_F LOCAL4
            IN_F LOCAL8
            IN_F LOCAL12
            OUT_8 LOCAL16
            OUT_8 LOCAL17
            IN_8 LOCAL18

            DATA8 LOCAL19
            DATA8 LOCAL20
            DATA8 LOCAL21
            DATA8 LOCAL22
            DATA8 LOCAL23
            DATA8 LOCAL24
            DATA8 LOCAL25
            DATA8 LOCAL26
            DATA8 LOCAL27
            DATA8 LOCAL28
            DATA8 LOCAL29
            DATA8 LOCAL30
            DATA8 LOCAL31
            DATA8 LOCAL32
            DATA8 LOCAL33
            DATA8 LOCAL34
            DATA8 LOCAL35
            DATA8 LOCAL36
            DATA8 LOCAL37
            DATA8 LOCAL38
            DATA8 LOCAL39
            DATA8 LOCAL40
            DATA8 LOCAL41
            DATA8 LOCAL42
            DATA8 LOCAL43
            DATA8 LOCAL44
            DATA8 LOCAL45
            DATA8 LOCAL46
            DATA8 LOCAL47
            DATA8 LOCAL48
            DATA8 LOCAL49
            DATA8 LOCAL50
            DATA8 LOCAL51
            DATA8 LOCAL52
            DATA8 LOCAL53
            DATA8 LOCAL54
            DATA8 LOCAL55
            DATA8 LOCAL56
            DATA8 LOCAL57
            DATA8 LOCAL58
            DATA8 LOCAL59
            DATA8 LOCAL60
            DATA8 LOCAL61
            DATA8 LOCAL62
            DATA8 LOCAL63
            DATA8 LOCAL64
            DATA8 LOCAL65
            DATA8 LOCAL66
            DATA8 LOCAL67
            DATA8 LOCAL68
            DATA8 LOCAL69
            DATA8 LOCAL70
            DATA8 LOCAL71
            DATA8 LOCAL72
            DATA8 LOCAL73
            DATA8 LOCAL74
            DATA8 LOCAL75
            DATA8 LOCAL76
            DATA8 LOCAL77
            DATA8 LOCAL78
            DATA8 LOCAL79
            DATA8 LOCAL80
            DATA8 LOCAL81
            DATA8 LOCAL82
            DATA8 LOCAL83
            DATA8 LOCAL84
            DATA8 LOCAL85
            DATA8 LOCAL86
            DATA8 LOCAL87
            DATA8 LOCAL88
            DATA8 LOCAL89
            DATA8 LOCAL90
            DATA8 LOCAL91
            DATA8 LOCAL92
            DATA8 LOCAL93
            DATA8 LOCAL94
            DATA8 LOCAL95
            DATA8 LOCAL96
            DATA8 LOCAL97
            DATA8 LOCAL98
            DATA8 LOCAL99
            DATA8 LOCAL100
            DATA8 LOCAL101
            DATA8 LOCAL102
            DATA8 LOCAL103
            DATA8 LOCAL104
            DATA8 LOCAL105

    OFFSET3_8:
            CP_LTF(LOCAL8,0,LOCAL100)
    OFFSET3_13:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL100,1,OFFSET3_24)
    OFFSET3_18:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL4,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET3_22:
            JR(OFFSET3_40)
    OFFSET3_24:
            SUBF(0.0F,LOCAL4,LOCAL72)
    OFFSET3_33:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL72,LOCAL56)
    OFFSET3_38:
            JR(OFFSET3_40)
    OFFSET3_40:
            MOVEF_8(LOCAL56,LOCAL97)
    OFFSET3_45:
            CP_NEQF(LOCAL56,0,LOCAL101)
    OFFSET3_51:
            MATH(ABS,LOCAL8,LOCAL68)
    OFFSET3_56:
            MOVEF_32(LOCAL68,LOCAL88)
    OFFSET3_61:
            MOVEF_F(2.0F,LOCAL32)
    OFFSET3_69:
            MOVEF_32(LOCAL0,LOCAL84)
    OFFSET3_73:
            PORT_CNV_OUTPUT(LOCAL84,LOCAL99,LOCAL98,LOCAL104)
    OFFSET3_82:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL98,LOCAL17)
    OFFSET3_86:
            MOVE8_8(LOCAL99,LOCAL16)
    OFFSET3_90:
            AND8(LOCAL101,LOCAL18,LOCAL103)
    OFFSET3_96:
            MOVE16_16(0,LOCAL92)
    OFFSET3_100:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL103,OFFSET3_108)
    OFFSET3_104:
            MOVE16_16(1,LOCAL92)
    OFFSET3_108:
            MOVE16_8(LOCAL92,LOCAL96)
    OFFSET3_113:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL12,LOCAL40)
    OFFSET3_117:
            MOVEF_F(-100.0F,LOCAL36)
    OFFSET3_125:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL40,LOCAL44)
    OFFSET3_130:
            MOVEF_F(100.0F,LOCAL52)
    OFFSET3_138:
            CP_GTF(LOCAL44,LOCAL52,LOCAL102)
    OFFSET3_145:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL44,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET3_150:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL102,OFFSET3_159)
    OFFSET3_154:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL52,LOCAL48)
    OFFSET3_159:
            CP_LTF(LOCAL48,LOCAL36,LOCAL105)
    OFFSET3_166:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL48,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET3_170:
            JR_FALSE(LOCAL105,OFFSET3_178)
    OFFSET3_174:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL36,LOCAL24)
    OFFSET3_178:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL24,LOCAL20)
    OFFSET3_181:
            MULF(LOCAL20,LOCAL32,LOCAL28)
    OFFSET3_186:
            JR_EQ8(LOCAL104,1,OFFSET3_197)
    OFFSET3_191:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL28,LOCAL60)
    OFFSET3_195:
            JR(OFFSET3_218)
    OFFSET3_197:
            MOVEF_F(0.0F,LOCAL76)
    OFFSET3_205:
            SUBF(LOCAL76,LOCAL28,LOCAL64)
    OFFSET3_211:
            MOVEF_F(LOCAL64,LOCAL60)
    OFFSET3_216:
            JR(OFFSET3_218)
    OFFSET3_218:
            MOVEF_16(LOCAL60,LOCAL94)
    OFFSET3_223:
            OUTPUT_STEP_SYNC(LOCAL99,LOCAL98,LOCAL97,LOCAL94,LOCAL88,LOCAL96)
    OFFSET3_236:
    }

Being a disassembly, this can be a bit hard to interpret since there are not any helpful variable names. You can find information on EV3 assembly language here.

Original answer:

The .ev3 file is actually just a zip file. You can use any zip utility to browse the contents or unzip it. It will look something like this:

├── Activity.x3a
├── ActivityAssets.laz
├── Program.ev3p
├── Project.lvprojx
├── ___CopyrightYear
└── ___ProjectTitle

The ___* files are just plain text files, ActivityAssets.laz is another zip file and the rest are xml files.


As of November 2011, should I buy the NXT 2.0 now, or wait and buy the NXT 3.0 later?

First off, there is not going to be an NXT 3.0. If there is, I would be extremely surprised.

This rumor was started back on April 1st, 2010 with a post on this blog (scroll to the bottom). Since then, many of people have been tricked. They even made another post the day afterward confessing that it was fake. Despite this, the rumor traveled to people who don't follow The NXT STEP, making its origins uncertain to them, and assumed it to have been announced by TLG.

With the Robotics Invention System, they stopped at the 2.0, and just waited some years before releasing the NeXT generation. I expect the same pattern here. So just go ahead and buy the NXT 2.0.

As for just Mindstorms set updates in general, there was once talk about expansion packs for the NXT kit that were supposed to be released by LEGO a few months later, but that discussion took place several years ago, so it is probably a no-go.


Which set does this lego tree belong to?

The stalk mold comes in two green versions 6097232: Stalk W. 1,5 Shaft And 3,2 Shaft and 6269940: Stalk W. 1,5 Shaft And 3,2 Shaft
Looking through photos of the sets containing these green parts, which contain some kind of tree build gives two sets:

10253-1: Big Ben
10247-1: Ferris Wheel

It's not the Big Ben set as this set contain a small tree which is build using a 1x1 plate:

The Ferris Wheel has a similar tree as you have and it also contains the same white
6170419: Stick 6M W/Flange (white ring on your photo):

Only your tree is missing a second cone piece. So it is hard to tell if this tree is coming from the Ferris Wheel set or someone used that tree build to build their own.


Third-party blocks with a smiling face or an umbrella with 2 dots on each side

After some searching, I have finally come up with the brand.

I too purchased a lot of bricks and found these odd ones in the mix, they are Tandem bricks, and there isn't too much information out there on them.


Known quality control issue with 10234 Sydney Opera House?

You seem to imply you built some of the structures symmetrically; however, by looking at the building instructions, I notice they are not: the subpart starting at page 37 of book 3 uses 7 wedges in total, while the opposite one on page 48 uses only 6.

While missing parts do happen (and are usually solved very diligently by the customer service, as said in other questions on the subject), it's always worth double-checking if the instructions were followed correctly, especially in such a huge model.


Will non-Lego remote controls work with Lego IR receivers?

It depends on how faithfully the remote was copied, specifically if the electronics was copied as well as the form factor. If KAZI just took a four channel IR module that uses another protocol and stuck two of them into the casing, the sent signals would most probably be incompatible with LEGO's PF system.
The channel number is only a manufacturer convention, without any inter-corporally agreed upon standards, so there is no universally accepted "channel" for IR remotes.


Heh, found it on my computer, click to download from Google Drive.


You might consider buying duplicates of some of the train sets to get more tracks and bridges, or you can buy the pieces individually on BrickLink, the largest online LEGO marketplace. For example if I pull up the #10508 set on BrickLink and look at the parts selection, I can see that the straight train tracks are available for about a dollar each from many different sellers. Same for the curved tracks. Here are some direct links:

Straight tracks: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=6377&idColor=85#T=P&C=85

Curved tracks: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=6378&idColor=85#T=P&C=85

And you can do the same for other pieces, including the bridge section, etc. Here is the page for the main set where you can look at the parts selection and see the ones you would like to get more of: http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?S=10508-1#T=I

And here are all the DUPLO train sets ever made: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=167.441


Is there a standard distribution of minifigs when you purchase an entire case?

Every box contains the same distribtion of minifigs. For example see this review on www.eurobricks.com of series 13 has the same distribution as my box. (links to his other CMF reviews are on the bottom of the first post)

For most series boxes contains 3 full sets and 12 remaining ones.

Series 9, 10 & 11 contain only 2 complete sets, with 2, 4 or 6 bags of the same minifigs. These boxes where also available as 'half' with only 30 bags. This way these boxes contains 1 complete serie.


What LEGO Power Function parts do I need to make an RC car?

Your assumptions appear to be mostly correct. Just for clarity, these are the minimum parts required:

A battery box
A motor for driving
A motor for steering (unless you want to try a steer-on-reverse single motor design)
An IR receiver (these can support two motors each)
An IR remote

Extension cables and/or lights are optional depending on the design of your vehicle.


Why does LEGO state the number of parts on US boxes, but not in Europe?

There is indeed a requirement that packaged products sold in the US must indicate the weight, volume or quantity plainly on the package. This is regulated by the FTC, which says in its requirements,

  The net quantity of contents (in terms of weight or mass, measure, or
  numerical count) shall be separately and accurately stated...

Canada has a similar law that says the net quantity of packaged products must be on the label.

The European Union's product labeling requirements do not appear to make the quantity a mandatory part of the product label. I do not think it actually prohibits putting the number of pieces on the packages, so it may not explain why The LEGO Company leaves that information off their European packages.


Can you identify this 1x2 brick with groves going opposite directions on each side?

Part #2877 Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Grille (Flutes).


Connecting LEGO WeDo USB hub to portable Power Bank

Yes, it uses a standard USB charging configuration. These are designed to be universal, making power distribution easier and cheaper.


This is actually a surprisingly difficult task. If you search for similar questions over on the Robotics stack exchange, you will find very smart people who can't even get it right with thousand-dollar localization solutions and graduate-level control theory.

If you have a Gyro sensor like Michael suggested, you're on the right track. You can probably get close to 16 degrees with that.

If you don't have a Gyro sensor, you can use the motors' built-in rotation sensors. If you drive the motors in opposite directions, the robot rotates around the point halfway between the wheels, and the formula is:

Where:

r_wheel  is the radius of your robot's wheels
theta_wheel  is the angle the wheel has to move
r_robot  is the radius of the robot (half of the distance between the two wheels)
theta_robot  is the angle you want the entire robot to turn, in this case 16 degrees.

So measure the radius of the wheel and the robot, plug in 16 degrees for theta_robot, and solve for theta_wheel. Then drive one motor forward theta_wheel degrees, and one motor backward theta_wheel degrees (simultaneously).

Bonus points if you make a MyBlock to have the EV3 do the calculation itself, for any desired theta_robot.

Actually even if you do have the gyro I would recommend trying both to see which gives better results for your specific situation.


Which is more environment-friendly: LEGO bricks or Mega Bloks?

There are multiple ways to look at this question, but in any case, probably LEGO.
Production
LEGO has been prioritizing sustainability as of late, with all of their electrical uses and more already coming from sustainable sources.

Our sustainability mission
Our mission is to make all LEGO® bricks sustainably by 2030. Why? Because being sustainable is good for the planet! We want to make bricks out of things that we can grow again or are recycled. This is not easy as we want sustainable LEGO bricks to have the same high quality that you are used to, but what we know is this: big ideas may start small, but they will help us build a greener planet one brick at a time.
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
At the LEGO Group, we want to play our part and make a positive impact on society and the planet, which our children will inherit, and it is this focus on future generations that drives our work. We believe we have a responsibility to minimise the environmental impact of our operations. However for us, minimising is not enough, we want to aim for zero environmental impact on the planet.
The LEGO Group aims to send zero waste to landfill by 2025, and in 2018 recycled 93% of all waste from our operations. Additionally, 100% of all plastic waste produced during the moulding of LEGO® bricks was recycled. This includes reusing some of the plastic resin in our own processes, as well as sending some of the waste to suppliers to be recycled and turned into other plastic products.
We’re big fans of wind power!
We’re proud of our achievement of being 100% balanced by renewable energy, due to the investments made in offshore wind farms in Germany and the UK by KIRKBI A/S – parent company of the LEGO Group. In 2018, the energy output from our investments in renewables was greater than the energy used at LEGO® factories, offices and stores.

I am not aware of nor was I able to find a similar effort being made by Mega Bloks, though I suppose it's possible they are doing it without advertising.
Disposal
As far as the environmental impact of the product when it reaches a landfill, it's a bit tougher to answer that question. It's unclear how different the  plastics the two companies uses is, and what the impact of those plastics is. The amount of plastic each company might use for a given piece might also differ. One thing I can say though is that LEGO is much more likely to be repurposed as it holds an after-market value much better.


Can anyone tell me where to donate a lot of Hero Factory parts and pieces?

If I were you, I'd try one of the following:

If you wish to get some money for them, post them as an auction on eBay without a minimal (reserve) price. This way somebody will surely bid at least some amount, and the lot will be off your hands and on it's way to someone who actually wants it at least a bit.

Posting on local marketplace boards (like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, etc.) could attract some interested recipients as well, either for money or for free.

If you don't want to get any compensation for it, you could try local kindergartens - I suppose they would welcome additional toys for the kids there.

If all else fails, you could just pack them up in a bag, attach a note abut what it is and what are your intentions, then leave the bag in a playground for someone to find. This is the most risky option, as parents in your area might be rightfully hesitant to let their kids pick up anything remotely suspicious, but it surely beats throwing the lot in the trash.


What is the best way to transport a large quantity of LEGO bricks?

When I moved house, I just sealed the gaps in a bunch of packing boxes with duct/packing tape, and put the storage bins in there - that way if anything did escape from the bins it wasn't going to get lost from the box.

I would say though that in general my collection wasn't organised in anyway, although there were a few built sets that survived fairly well.


NXT shuts down USB on Mac after connecting motors

The clicking mode means that you need to reload the firmware on the NXT (under the Tools menu in the NXT software).

If you still get the overcurrent shutdown using different cables and different computers, then the conclusion has to be that there is something wrong with the NXT itself. The USB port should be drawing little to no current at all since the NXT has its own power source.

It would also be worth contacting LEGO support if you do indeed have a defective NXT.


Using a remote control for an EV3 robot?

You can't start a program with the remote (8885) or beacon (45508), however you can certainly have your program respond to a remote or beacon if you have the IR sensor (45509). So what you desire can for example be achieved by embedding your base program in one big loop and at the start of the loop have the program wait for a button pressed on the remote or beacon.

Unfortunately the education version does not contain the IR sensor (it is distributed with the commercial version 31313) so you will have to buy that one separately as well...


Fix Power Functions cable near connector (L motor)

Since there are no visible clips on the connector, it is probably not possible to open it without damaging it. Instead, you could purchase an 8886 or 8871 extension wire and use it to replace the entire cable (assuming you can open the motor).


No, it appears that you need to use the EV3 software to program the EV3 kit, as per the FAQ on the LEGO site: http://mindstorms.lego.com/en-us/News/ReadMore/Default.aspx?id=476781

The EV3 sensors also won't work with the NXT brick either.

Though, I'd imagine if you're getting an EV3 kit, it should come with the EV3 software.


EV3 isn't showing up in programming software after pairing on Windows XP

The key is to make sure the driver works with MS's bluetooth stack, and doesn't just use it's own stack.

Press Win+R, type bthprops.cpl (or maybe irprops.cpl, it's been a while), hit enter.  Check the Hardware tab to make sure your device actually shows up.  If not, try different drivers/manually installing the driver using the "Have disk" method.  3rd party bluetooth stacks may disable the MS one seeing the device, even if the device/driver supports the MS stack.


What is the difference between Shuttle Adventurer (10213) and Shuttle Expedition (10231)

The LEGO Direct team's answer to this question is on brickset:

  Since its release in 2010, 10213 Shuttle Adventure
  has proven to be very popular!  Although the model was designed for a
  16+ target audience, our consumer call center has brought to our
  intention that many younger children have been building and playing
  with the model.  As a result, the Direct team has decided to look at
  the model once more to see what changes could be made in order to
  provide a better build and play experience for a slightly younger
  target audience.   10231 Shuttle Expedition may look similar to
  Shuttle Adventure in many ways, however its build is very different
  and offers several advantages.

  The fuel tank has been reinforced with supports to strengthen the assembly
  The landing gear is strengthened to function better across many different floor types
  The Cargo doors can now be more rigorously opened and closed
  The entire build has been reworked to limit opportunities for misplacing elements
  Astronauts now have wigs in addition to their helmets (1 male, 1 female).  Face prints are also different.
  The new set now has 1,230 elements
  New Satellite can be securely positioned on the new mechanical arm 10231 Shuttle


This seems to be a prototype / part that was not put in production
Post / Picture by Gary Istok on Eurobricks


Since the set is still being produced, you can call Lego Customer Service at 1-800-835-4386, and they will most likely be able to help you.

Failing that, the BrickLink website is a popular place to buy replacement parts. Here's the link for the sticker sheet:
http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?itemID=102237

It looks like there are a handful of sellers in the US selling the stickers for $1-$2. Registration on the site is easy, and most of the sellers accept PayPal.


Attaching a ring-like handle to a castle door

I agree with Alex. There's no reason to settle for a ring, when you could use the ring.

Here's one way to attach it if you want the ring to look like it is hanging down from the door:


EV3 program runs fine when connected to PC but does not respond when copied to the brick

Thanks for the comments. I figured it out and the mistake was simple. I had two separate and independent program sequences each with its own start point in one program window. One sequence was for testing purpose to see if everything works and
 the 2nd sequence was the actual driving block. As I am new to this setup, I guess one window should have just one program sequence.

Once I deleted the test block and kept only the driving sequence, everything works fine. Posting this just in case some newbie might find it helpful in future.

For the veterans, I hope my understanding is correct that in one window, there should be only one start point.


What set do I have? 2 grey 6x6 circle plates, dark grey, dark red, and dark blue pieces

THese parts are from 76019-1: Starblaster Showdown based on

Plate 1X4 W. 2 Knobs
Plate 6X6 Round With Tube Snap
Right Plate 2X4 W/Angle