From Christian Dior to Grayson Perry, the V&A throws the net wide in terms of its exhibitions. Its latest offering, 'FOOD: Bigger than the Plate', encourages us to look at the nutrient loop of food - how it is grown, how it is prepared for us and how we consume and then, well, dispose of it (eco-friendly toilets and vases made of animal waste are a feature). With the conversation surrounding sustainability now more important than ever, it's a timely and thought-provoking exhibition which shouldn't be missed.
'Bigger than the Plate' explores how innovative individuals, communities and organisations are taking steps to re-invent our relationship with food. Visitors are invited to sample syrups made from herbs foraged in London, and the final exhibit LOCI Food Lab provides visitors with a unique bioregional canapé based on their answers to a quiz on what food future they would like to see. These interactive exhibits sit alongside a variety of projects which demonstrate how steps are being taken to ensure a more sustainable future for us all - a new material called Totomoxtle made from old corn husks, a sustainable Bicitractor and a bowl made using protein extracted from milk are just a few of the eye-catching items on display.
The exhibition has a worldwide focus: zero-waste pineapple beer from Mexico is displayed next to 'fallen fruit' maps of London, which show where fruit trees grow in central London neighbourhoods. A particular highlight is GroCycle's Urban Mushroom Farm installation which uses waste coffee grounds - including grounds from the V&A cafe - to illustrate a circular economy by growing edible Oyster mushrooms. Once grown, these mushrooms will be harvested in front of visitors and served in dishes at the museum cafe, thus closing the nutrient loop.
Sensibly divided into four sections, 'Compost', 'Farming', 'Trading' and 'Eating', each segment of the exhibition has a clear focus. In turns thought-provoking and shocking (a video showing the production line of meat is particularly confronting), it strikes the balance between entertaining and educational in a deft way. Some elements of the exhibition are rather less savoury than others - cheese made using cultures from human bacteria might well put you off your lunch - but ultimately this is a timely and indeed necessary look at how we can, and are, taking steps to improve our relationship with food and the impact this has on the world around us.