Need to pump water from a water supply uphill to well 50 feet up a good slope. How big of a submersial pump would I need? Tried with a 1/4 horsepower and didn't work .
I have a submersible pump that is 97 feet straight down under, the ground and it pumps great. ...3/4 horsepower pump.
Do it right. Don't guess.
Measure the total vertical lift needed from the source to your outlet.
Decide how many gallons per minute you want.
Then HP needed = GPM x feet head / 2178.
That simple. For example, the previous poster mentions 97-ft head and 3/4 hp... this will give almost 18 gall per minute, check it out and see if I'm wrong. Well maybe less, as it depends on the pipe size...
Our water (cold and hot) has begun coming out tinted. We have owned the 25-year old house for a year and have not had problems before. We have not had rain for a couple of weeks. Will this self-correct with rain, or is the well running dry?Here is hoping that it is just the lack of rainfall and that you get some soon. I believe that is your problem...
Rusty WaterRusty water Background: The water in my home is from a natural well and if the water isn't run for a couple days there is rust that comes out when the water is turned on. The house is forty years old and the rust will come out of every facet or toilet. The water never seems to completely clear up. Question: Do you think the rust is from the house pipes or is the problem from the well pipe? Or is is a result of some other problem? I would recommend getting it tested (the water I mean). It may well be something from the ground, but if it tends to clear up when you run it a while, I would suspect the well pipe or the piping in or to your house or the pressure tank in your house. The test may give you the clue.
PressurePoor water pressure We recently bought a 75 year old two story house in town with poor water pressure. The hot water pressure is especially bad. The pipes are galvanized and presumably the original pipes. The gas hot water heater is located in the basement at the opposite corner from where all the water usage is, because it vents into the furnace chimney. Can old pipes cause low water pressure? If so, is there any cheap and easy way to increase the pressure without replacing pipe? Finally, would it do any good to replace about half the pipe (that's the amount not buried in the walls)? We have some galvanized too. It does, over the years, tend to decrease water pressure. Some of our neighbors that are in houses as old as ours have replaced the line that runs from the main on the street to the house, and it has worked really well. It's expensive, though. I don't know of any alternative to replacement. If there is one I'd like to try it. We have poor water pressure too. If you ever look inside of an old segment of galv. pipe, two things occur to you. First, you'll understand why you have no pressure and second, you'll never want to drink your water again. The buildup is amazing. Water Pressure from our well We recently had a home built that has a well which is 350' deep. Our water pump is 3/4 HP. The piping is cpcv and appears to be appropriate size. Our water pressure is minimal at best. Any suggestions??? First of all, contact the installer!! If the home was recently built, you should not be running into these problems. The size of the pump seems appropriate, but without knowing the static level of the well, the GPM of the well & pump, the distance the pump is set in the well (is it submersible or jet (above ground)), and the distance from the well to the house. Also, how many stories is the house? Most new homes have to meet certain guidelines with regards to pressure and flow. Piping should be 3/4" minimum, until the point where it splits off to the fixture (when 1/2" is acceptable). All homes must have a 3/4" valve just after the holding tank. Tell me, is the pressure steadily bad, or does it start off fine, and then quickly turn to bad? Also, is it on both the hot and cold water, or just the hot? If just the hot, how do you heat your hot water? Do you have a water softener or other type of treatment system? The suggestion regarding the pressure switch is a good idea. Most new installations come with a 30/50 pressure switch, which means the pump turns on when the pressure in the tank reaches 30 psi, and turns off when the pressure reaches 50. You could take the cover off the switch, and using a 3/8 wrench tighten down on the large nut (which compresses the spring) until the pump reaches a 40/60 on/off ratio (as seen by the pressure gauge). DO NOT SET IT ANY HIGHER THAN THAT!! If you continue to have a problem, then you should probably contact the pump installer of plumber who did the work in the house, and have them recheck the installation. Well pressure tank I am having a problem with the water pressure in my well. The cut off pressure is 22psi , the tank pressure is 20 psi. The water pumps to about 50psi and quickly drop to 22psi and the pump starts on again. Is this normal? Is the tank holding water? Is there a way to adjust the pressure higher? Your pressure tank is probably "water logged". The bladder may be ruptured. Try shutting off pump switch, draining out water in tank, then refilling. This should recharge tank with air enough to temporarily fix the problem, proving your existing tanks bladder is ruptured. There has to be air in the tank for it to work properly, or else it will short cycle.
About a year ago we had a new four inch well drilled. It seems to be working fine. That is, the pressure switch is doing its thing and all appears to be as it should be. I trust the guy who put it in as well. The problem is that we simply are not getting enough water and it's not the size of the pump or the well itself. Both are fine. For instance, the problem is worst when the washer is filling. During that process you can't extract a drop of water from the kitchen sink. The problem is less severe in the shower or the bathroom sink but still noticeable. I understand we're not going to have the pressure and supply of city water but this is discouraging after spending the money on a new well. The well guy says my water softener might be clogging things up. Is this likely? He said i could isolate the softener then try it but I can't figure out how to do that. When I turn off the supply valves to the softener I get no water anywhere in the house.
In regard to your water softener, you are usually able to isolate it without shutting off the water supply to your house. Yours may not be set up that way - but take a look at your softener shut off valve. If it has a "bypass" position, try that. With a 4" casing, I assume that you have a deep well. Also, I assume that you have a pressure/water tank. Is it of the bladder type? If so, you might want to check the pressure. Usually, the pressure is adjusted to 2 pounds less than your pump start pressure. So, if you have a 30 - 50# pressure switch on your pump, you should adjust your tank pressure to 28#. Look on your water tank for a air valve like you might find on a car tire. Shut off the power to the pump. Drain the water tank completely. Locate a small air compressor (you can use a bike pump but be prepared to sweat). You also need a tire pressure gauge. Put air into tank until you reach the point that is 2 pounds less than your pump start pressure. Once that is done, you can restart the pump. This should help maintain more consistent pressure. Good luck!
Water pressure in new house too low
I have just moved into a new house with well water. The well pump is set to come on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi. When the system is down at the 30-psi end, the kitchen faucet barely runs. (Yes, I have cleaned out the aerator regularly). My question is, can I safely bump up the pressures to be 40 psi and 60 psi?
I just recently did the same thing...(about a month ago)..no pressure. Found out the submersible pump was blown and I had to have a new one put in at 97 feet below the ground....also, do you have bladder type holding tanks...if so, are the bladders in ok shape. Have you had them checked?
No water from Kitchen faucet
I recently replaced my kitchen faucet but every now and then, the water stops flowing. If I use the spray hose for a moment to get the water flowing again, everything's fine. What can I check?
Maybe you have a loose seal/washer/spring floating in your faucet somewhere. If you have a single lever faucet this especially can happen. Take apart the faucet and examine it too make sure.
Everything is in place. If you think there might be something stuck, get someone to help you do the following Cut a large pop bottle making a large hole on one side. Have the second person hold it over the stripped down faucet so that that the spray will be directed into the sink (and not in his face!). Ensure that your sink is plugged with a strainer to collect the expelled part. You can then open the valves below and blow the supply tubes out.