Treptow-Köpenick is in the southeast of Berlin. Köpenick is known for its old town, its castle and the many lakes and forests. And for the story of The Captain of Köpenick. Treptow is more a residential district and well known to Berliners for its big park and some beautiful views of River Spree.
Treptow-Köpenick is a district of Berlin. In some parts you can visit big ex-industrial areas which are now changing to something else (i.e. cultural or shopping areas) or simply fading away.
As is common for place-names in the area, the "ow" is pronounced like a long slightly more open German o. Any other pronunciation but especially "off" marks one as an out-of-towner and a bit ignorant.
Adlershof is notable mostly for two things, these days: It contains quite a bit of TV (e.g. the popular political talk show Anne Will is shot there) and it contains the sprawling and expanding 1 WISTA Science and Technology Park (Wissenschafts- und Wirtschaftsstandort Adlershof).
Der Hauptmann von Köpenick
These days, Köpenick is not exactly a household name among Germans, as the quiet outlying district of Berlin is not exactly famous for much. If Germans do know it, then for a bizarre episode in local history turned into multiple works of theater, film and literature by big names of German cultural production of the 20th century. The down on his luck shoemaker and small-time criminal Friedrich Wilhelm Voigt (born 1849), who by the year 1906 had tried to make an honest living but faced the bizarre regulations of his day that barred an ex-con from living basically anywhere (in the most famous play, he is presented as being unable to get a residence permit because he has no job and unable to get a job because he has no residence permit - a Catch 22 avant la lettre). Thus, he decided to run his most famous con of them all, with a used military uniform and his acquired knowledge of military customs and forms he stopped a group of Prussian soldiers, ordering them to follow him before he took them by train to (the then independent city of) Köpenick. There, he had the mayor arrested "on highest orders", and "confiscated" the municipal treasury - a value of some 4000 mark - duly noted with a receipt exact to the last pfennig, which Voigt signed in the name of his former jail director. While Voigt escaped with no-one the wiser, he was ultimately caught and sentenced to four years in prison. However, the German press loved his exploits, and even Kaiser Wilhelm II is said to have been sympathetic, so he was pardoned. Voigt would manage to capitalize on his fame, and lived a mostly uneventful (and non-criminal) life until his death in Luxembourg in 1922. German playwright Carl Zuckmayer would turn the story into a play in 1931, which was, of course, much more than just a "funny story", given the rise of the uniformed Nazis and his treatment of the Catch-22 that led Voigt to his act. It is this treatment that many subsequent movie adaptations, including a 1956 one with Heinz Rühmann and a 1997 one with Harald Juhnke, are based on. Today, a statue of the Hauptmann stands in front of the Rathaus (city hall) of Köpenick, the site of his most famous exploit.
The play, as well as subsequent discussions, but also foreign (particularly English) press at the time, like to emphasize the militaristic element of the story and the "unquestioning obedience" that a mere uniform commands. One line, repeated over and over in different contexts in the play, is "(Wo) hamse jedient?" - "(Where) did you serve?" (i.e. in the military), with the implication that a man's social station depends on nothing more than on their military service and career. Every retelling also made Voigt out to be more of a "tragic hero" and "noble thief" than the actual events would indicate.
To get to the Müggelsee take the 4 Friedrichshagen or to 5 Rahnsdorf and if you want to round it you will have to use the Ferry transport of the BVG and ferry line F23 or F24. To get to the Langer See lake take the S8,9,45,46 or 85 to 6 Grünau and then Tram 68.to
Perhaps the most picturesque line in the city, known to transit system officials as "the most beloved tram line in Germany" due to its customers' passionate opposition to reducing service, is Line 68. In off-seasons it has more scenery than people, but when hot weather comes its lakeshore meanderings and the tiny, "gemütlich" village of Alt-Schmöckwitz at the line's outer terminal draw so many customers that extra trams are pressed into service. Line 68 may be best accessed at the Berlin-Grünau S-Bahn station, where all types of convenience food and shopping are available.
Beyond the village center and tram terminal, a large forested area of lakefront parkland offers hiking and bicycling possibilities. This was once the home neighborhood for expatriate American, international music and film star Dean Reed. The Line 68 tram had one brief moment of glory, in 1936. In its former incarnation as Line 86 it was the best route to the Olympic rowing events and some structures, street names, etc., still reflect that high point.
The German Bicycle Route D3 (which runs along the European Bicycle Route R1) runs directly through this district. It goes through Treptower Park, the old town of Köpenick and near the southern side of Müggelsee.
- 1 Aerodynamic Park, Rudower Chausee/Newtonstraße, 12489 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S45,S46,S85 Adlershof, Tram: 61,63 Magnusstr., Bus: 162,164). This aeronautical experimental park on the grounds of Germany's first air field Johannisthal consists of a group of several individual technical monuments such as the walkable Großer Windkanal (High-speed wind channel, 1932–34), the Trudelturm (Fatty tower), a vertical wind tunnel for spinning tests (1934–36), the Schallgedämpfter Motorenprüfstand (Sound-insulated engine test bed, 1933–35) and the Isothermische Kugellabore (Adlershofer Busen, Isothermal spheric laboratories, 1959–1961), which are about 500 metres away from the other monuments.
- 2 Regattastrecke Berlin-Grünau, Regattastraße 211, 12527 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,9,45,46,85 Grünau, Tram 68, Bus 68 Regattatribünen). The 2000-m-long regatta course at the Langer See lake in Grünau was an official site of the Olympic Games 1936. The first rowing regatta took place here on 27 June 1880.
- 3 Seebad Wendenschloss (Strandbad Wendenschloss), Möllhausenufer 30, 12555 Berlin (Tram 62 Wendenschloß, Ferry F12 Wassersportallee), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. This public lido at Langer See which opened in 1915 offers a pleasant sand beach, an art exhibition, beach volleyball courts and a fantastic view onto the regatta course on the other shore.
- 4 Nazi Forced Labor Documentation Center, Britzer Straße 5, 12439 Berlin (Berlin-Schöneweide S-Bahn station), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00; closed Dec 24, 31. The Schöneweide forced labor camp (GBI-Lager 75/76) on Britzer Straße is a complete ensemble, which makes it a rather unusual site in Berlin. Of the original thirteen housing barracks erected between 1943 and 1945, eleven are still standing today. Six barracks on the western part of the former camp grounds belong to the Documentation Center on Nazi Forced Labor. free, guided tours are available on request.
- 5 Archenhold Observatory, Alt-Treptow 1, ☏ . Museum: W-Su 14:00-16:30. Guided tours: Th 20:00; Sa Su 15:00. The longest moving refracting telescope is 21 m long with a lens diameter of 68 cm. This giant telescope was built in 1896 by Dr. Freidrich Simon Archenhold but is now part of the Deutsches Technikmuseum Berlin. It was the place where Albert Einstein presented his Theory of Relativity to the public in 1915. Free, guided tour €6.
- 6 Soviet War Memorial, Puschkinallee, ☏ . In Treptower Park, a huge memorial and the surrounding war cemetery for 5,000 of the Red Army soldiers fallen during the Battle of Berlin. Distinctive Soviet realism features, with its iconic statue of a Red Army soldier standing proudly over a broken Nazi swastika.
- 7 Spreepark, Wasserweg, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park or Plänterwald, Bus: 165,166,265,N65 Rathaus Treptow), ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. This abandoned amusement park with its iconic large Ferris wheel openend in the German Democratic Republic in 1969. After its closing in 2002 the rotting theme park and its apocalyptic atmosphere became a target of international media coverage, amongst others by the New York Times. In 2016 it was announced that the venue will be restored an reopen as an art and culture park.
- 9 Schloss Köpenick (Köpenick Palace) (S-Bahn: S3 Köpenick or S47 Spindlersfeld, Tram: 27,60,61,62,63,67,68 Schloßplatz Köpenick, Bus: 68,162,164,165). The charming Baroque water palace of the Hohenzollern electors surrounded by the Dahme river and an English garden.
- 10 Museum of Decorative Arts, Schloßinsel 1, 12557 Berlin (S Spindlersfeld), ☏ . Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. In the Köpenick Palace. €4.
- 11 Berliner Bürgerbräu (S-Bahn: S3 Friedrichshagen, Tram: 60,61 Müggelseedamm/Bölschestr.). The building of one of Berlin’s oldest breweries is a ravishingly beautiful and heritage-protected industrial monument.
- 12 Spreetunnel Friedrichshagen, Josef-Nawrocki-Straße, 12587 Berlin (S-Bahn: S3 Friedrichshagen, Tram: 60 Josef-Nawrocki-Str.). This heritage-protected 120-m-long pedestrian tunnel below the river Spree was the first ferro-concrete tunnel in Germany that has been built using pneumatic caissons. Two beaches can be accessed via the tunnel which are not far from its south entrance.
- 13 Kleiner Müggelsee, Hinter der Düne 8, 12559 Berlin (S-Bahn: S3 Rahnsdorf or Wilhelmshagen, Ferry F23 or F24, Bus: 169 Odernheimer Str.). The "Small Müggelsee" is southeast of the "Large Müggelsee". Its sloping sand beach, which is called Strandbad Kleiner Müggelsee is one of the most popular bathing beaches in this southeast corner of Berlin, if not the most popular.
- 14 Müggelsee (S-Bahn: S3 Friedrichshagen or Rahnsdorf, Tram: 61). Berlin's biggest lake and popular resort for bathing and watersports. You can also travel there by tram, which is an experience by itself.
- 15 Müggelturm, Straße zum Müggelturm 1 (Bus X69 to stop "Rübezahl". Tram line 62 to "Wendenschloss" (end of the line)), ☏ . 10:00-20:00. An observation tower without an elevator in Southeast Berlin, from which you can see that there is a great deal of forest around Berlin. There is a cafe at the tower. €2.
- 16 Neuvenedig ( Wilhelmshagen station). A beautiful landscape of water canals and vegetation with charming little fish restaurants.
- 1 Treptower Park. Nice and clean park next to the Spree. Famous for the Insel der Jugend (Isle of Youth) and its numerous boat rentals and boat trips.
- 2 FEZ Berlin (Pionierpalast Ernst Thälmann), Strasse zum FEZ 2, 12459 Berlin-Oberschöneweide ( Wuhlheide, Tram: 27,60,67 Freizeit- und Erholungszentrum Berlin, Bus: N67). M-F 08:30-16:00, SaSu 12:00-17:00. While the former Palast der Republik in Berlin-Mitte has been demolished in favor of the reconstruction of the Berliner Schloss, its counterpart for kids, pupils and "young pioneers", the Pionierpalast Ernst Thälmann can still be seen at the Volkspark Wuhlheide. The large building complex which was built from 1976 to 1979 is a contemporary testimony for architecture in the socialist German Democratic Republic and of the 1970s. It included a cosmonaut training center, a large indoor swimming pool, a theater, restaurants, event locations, and a launch site for model rockets. Today it is called FEZ Berlin and the usage as a center for kids, the youth and families remains the same, with most of the original facilities such as the indoor swimming pool and the space flight training center still in place.
- 3 Kindl-Bühne Wuhlheide (Wuhlheide Kindl Stage), Strasse zum FEZ 4 (An der Wuhlheide), 12459 Berlin-Oberschöneweide (S-Bahn: S3 Wuhlheide, Tram: 27,60,67 Freizeit- und Erholungszentrum Berlin, Bus: N67), ☏ . The Kindl-Bühne Wuhlheide is a cultural heritage site and of Berlin's largest and most popular open-air stages for rock, pop and electronic concerts in the shape of an ancient amphitheater.
- Watch association football i.e. soccer at FC Union Berlin. They were promoted in 2019 and now play in Bundesliga, the top tier of German association football. Their home ground is the 4 Stadion An der Alten Försterei, capacity 22,000. It's southeast of city centre near Berlin-Köpenick S-bahn station.
- 5 Badeschiff, Eichenstraße 4. An old cargo ship hull converted to a fresh-water swimming pool, anchored permanently on the river Spree. Provides a nice opportunity to swim on the Spree, without swimming in the river, which is far too polluted. There is a bar with disco DJ music next to the pool. In winter time, the pool is covered against the weather. entrace free, charges for drinks.
- Go on the water. Rent a motor boat, rowing boat, canoe or kayak and explore the Müggelspree, Dahme, Müggelsee, Langer See, Seddinsee or Dämeritzsee and the various channels which connect these waters.
- 8 Strandbad Müggelsee (Strandbad Rahnsdorf), Fürstenwalder Damm 838, 12589 Berlin ( Rahnsdorf, Tram: 61 Strandbad Müggelsee), ☏ . The history of this heritage-protected public bathing beach at Müggelsee traces back to the 1910s. It has a more than 500 meters long beach and a capacity for 25,000 guests.
- 9 Winzerfest Köpenick, ☏ . An open-air event in the old town of Köpenick that takes place every year for a weekend once in spring (around end of April) and once in summer (around August). Wineries from (mostly) Germany bring their wine which you get to enjoy at a moderate price. There are also food stalls.
Bölschestraße in Friedrichshagen (S-Bahn: S3 Friedrichshagen) is a 1,3km long shopping street with many small shops and restaurants in historical Art Nouveau and Gründerzeit buildings.
- 1 Forum Köpenick, Bahnhofstraße 33–38, 12555 Berlin (S-Bahn: S3 Berlin-Köpenick, Tram: 27,60,61,62,63,68), ☏ . M-Sa 07:00-21:00. Large and modern shopping center which houses 140 shops as well as restaurants, dentists and a post office.
- 2 Kaufland Berlin-Adlershof, Rudower Chaussee 12, 12489 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S45,S46,S85 Adlershof, Tram: 61,63 Walther-Nernst-Str., Bus: 162,164), ☏ . M-Sa 07:00-20:00. While Adlershof is no tourist destination per se, you might arrive at Germany's largest science and business compound WISTA when you are a student, visiting researcher or businessman. This large supermarket on two floors is a good place to buy food supplies for your trips and excursions to southern Berlin.
- 3 Park Center Treptow, Am Treptower Park 14, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park), ☏ . M-Sa 08:00-22:00. Shopping centre which houses about 50 shops, services and a pharmacy.
- 4 Treptower Hallentrödelmarkt, Eichenstraße 4, 12435 Berlin, ☏ . Su 10:00-18:00. Huge indoor flea market
- 5 Zentrum Schöneweide, Schnellerstraße 21, 12439 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S45,S46,S47,S85,RB24 Schöneweide), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. M-Sa 10:00-20:00. Shopping centre at the S-Bahn station Schöneweide which houses about 30 shops, services, a pharmacy, a Media Markt consumer electronics discounter and some restaurants and bistros.
- 1 Blaue Lagune, Sterndamm 65 (Schöneweide S-bahn Station + Tram 63), ☏ . 10:00-19:00. A coffeeshop/restaurant where you can have great coffee, house-made excellent ice cream and cakes, and great food from a short but just as excellent menu, and all that in a wonderful ambiente. Nestled in a corner of Johannisthal, part of Schoeneweide, which is a subsection of Treptow.
- 2 Klipper, Bulgarische Str., 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park or Plänterwald, Bus: 165,166,265,N65 Rathaus Treptow), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. Daily 10:00–01:00. This firmly anchored restaurant ship is certainly one of the most beautiful venues for having dinner in Treptow and Berlin.
- 3 Luise Restaurant and Bar, Alt-Köpenick 20 (on the Dahme side, across from the City Hall.), ☏ , fax: , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. M-F from 09:00, Sa Su from 11:00. Friendly service, delicious German/Italian food and a great view over the Dahme and the Spree both from inside and outside on the big wooden terrace. €12 main, €25 menus.
- 5 Neu Helgoland, Neuhelgoländer-Weg 1, 12559 Berlin (S-Bahn: S3 Rahnsdorf, Ferry F23 or F24, offers wharf for private boats), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. Daily 11:00 – 21:00 (last kitchen orders). One of Berlin's most beautiful waterside restaurants with over 100 years of tradition. Regular events such as concerts and comedy, often with popular East German bands. Locals usually arrive by boat.
- 6 Rübezahl, Müggelheimer Damm 143, 12559 Berlin (Bus 169: Rübezahl, Landing pier for tourist steamers and wharf for private boats), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. Wed-Su 11:30 – 21:00 (last kitchen orders). This waterside restaurant with beer garden named after the folklore mountain spirit is one of the best-known and oldest at Müggelsee and offers delicious meals, dinner events, weddings and an ice skating rink in winter. The food is good but on the pricey side and they make you pay to use the toilets.
- 7 Schmetterlingshorst, Zum Schmetterlingshorst 2, 12559 Berlin (Tram 62 Wendenschloß, Ferry F12 Wassersportallee, Bus 169 Chauseehaus), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa Su 10:00-19:00. This history of this cozy pub for hikers, sportsmen and day-trippers at Langer See and its butterfly collection can be traced back to the year 1898.
- 8 Westernrestaurant Richtershorn am See, Sportpromenade 15, 12527 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,9,45,46,85 to Grünau, Tram 68 Richtershorn, offers a wharf for private boats), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. Tu-F 14:00-18:00, Sa Su 12:00-18:00. Old style Western restaurant at the waterside with a log cabin, outdoor terrace, dancehall, wharf, zoo and winter garden as well as a beautiful view over the Langer See lake.
- 1 Dresdner Feinbäckerei (Dresdner Café), Bölschestraße 89, ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. Tu–Sa 05:30-18:00, Su 11300-18:00. This tradition-rich confectionery and café which was founded in 1906 offers backed goods, cookies and cakes from Saxony as well as coffee. Regular events such as readings take place at the café.
- 2 Köpenick Palace Cafe, Schlossinsel 1, ☏ . Nov-Mar: Th-Su 10:00-18:00; Oct-Apr: Tu-Su 10:00-19:00; May-Sep: Tu-Su 10:00-23:00. Both inside and outside are beautiful places to have a glass of wine or beer or a cup of coffee with a whipped cream cake. Also have menus for lunch and dinner. €4 for drinks.
Clubs & bars
- 3 Arena Club, Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park, U-Bahn: U1 Schlesisches Tor, Bus: 165,265,N65 Heckmannufer), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. This techno club in a raw and run-down old boiler room of 500 m² provides the perfect atmosphere for hard industrial techno. It has one dance floor and two bars and an impressive light installation at the ceiling. Next to the club, the huge Arena Berlin compound also includes a larger multipurpose hall of 6,500 m² which hosts events such as concerts, fashion shows and conventions, a glass house for further events and a bar.
- 4 Club der Visionäre, Am Flutgraben 1, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park, U-Bahn: U1 Schlesisches Tor, Bus: 165,265,N65 Heckmannufer), ☏ . Atmospheric club at the waterside well-known for minimal techno, house and techno-house and high-grade DJ bookings. Originally only a summer venue, it now also has an indoor winter location at the MS Hoppetosse excursion ship which is docked nearby.
- 6 Freiheit Fünfzehn, Freiheit 15, 12555 Berlin (U-Bahn: S-Bahn: S3 Berlin-Köpenick, S47 Berlin-Spindlersfeld, Tram: 27, 60, 61, 62, 63, 67, 68 Freiheit, Bus: 162, 164, N67, N69, N90 Freiheit), ☏ . Club location and beautiful beer garden at the waterside in Köpenick. The party area includes a concert location on a former cargo ship on the water, a dance club called Pop.arty and a bar called Duke bar.
- 7 Freischwimmer, Schlesischen Tor 2, ☏ . Bar at the river on a ponton with good food and drinks, good for chilling.
- 8 [formerly dead link] Haus Zenner (Eierschale 3), Alt-Treptow 14–17, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park, U-Bahn: U1 Schlesisches Tor, Bus: 165,166,265,N65 Alt-Treptow), ☏ , ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. Restaurant with beer garden and live music venue where Jazz and Swing bands perform regularly. It is one of the successors of the legendary Eierschale Jazz club which was located in Berlin-Dahlem from 1956 to 2000.
- 9 Hoppetosse, Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin (S-Bahn: S8,S9,S41,S42,S46,S47,S85 Treptower Park, U-Bahn: U1 Schlesisches Tor, Bus: 165,265,N65 Heckmannufer), ☏ . This is a club for minimal techno and house located on a permanently docked excursion ship on the Spree river, the MS Hoppetosse. It is the winter venue for the Club der Visionäre. It has one dance floor and a Martion Bullfrog sound system.
- 10 Insel Berlin, Alt-Treptow 6. M 14:00-20:00; Tu 16:00-02:00; W 19:30-02:00; Th Su 14:00-02:00; F 21:00-04:00; Sa 22:00-04:00; Winter closed. Club on the Insel der Jugend island on the Spree river with three floors, music varies from reggae to techno to indie to gothic.
- 11 Rummelsburg (Altes Kraftwerk Rummelsburg), Rummelsburger Landstraße 2–12 (S-Bahn: S3 Karlshorst, Tram: 21 Köpenicker Chaussee/Blockdammweg). Techno festivals, raves and beach bars right at the waterside and the old Rummelsburg power plant.