Species group: Chameleons
Scientific name: Chamaeleo dilepis
Flap-Necked Chameleons are found throughout southern and central Africa, but specifically originated from Tanzania. They inhabit dry forest and savannahs that have moderate temperatures with high humidity for short periods of time. They are also found in the edges of coastal forests.
Appearance / health:
Flap-Necked Chameleons average 12 inches in length, with the females only slightly smaller than the males. Other distinguishing characteristics that distinguish the males are a hemipenal bulge, ankle spurs on the hind legs, and a higher casque (decorative growth on the head, like a helmet). True to its name, the Flap-Necked Chameleon has “flaps” (essentially part of the casque) that protrude over the neck, which are raised to frighten away predators and rivals. Its basic, relaxed coloration is light green, brown, or yellow with a thin light colored stripe running from behind the front legs to the hind legs. Small dark spots and blotches are present all over the body. The spots change color (from dark to bright orange and yellow) when the lizard is excited or sexually active. Large brownish and grayish blotches may also be present.
Behavior / temperament:
Flap-necked Chameleons are lively and harmless. They are, however, sometimes skittish and easily startled. When threatened, they inflate their bodies and turn almost black in color. They raise their neck flaps and open their mouths. When highly agitated, they can bite hard.
Flap-Necked Chameleons prefer a semi-dry cage with plenty of horizontal climbing branches and open areas for fresh air. They don’t drink from stagnant or still water, therefore a drip system or waterfall is recommended, along with daily misting. Day temp: 82-86F; night temp: 71-77F; basking temp: 90F; day humidity: 50-60%; night humidity: 80-90%; lighting 12-14 hours, UV radiation required.
Flap-Necked Chameleons are best kept singly because they are territorial and can become aggressive towards others of the same species. They are arboreal, needing to climb and bask on horizontal branches and twigs.
Like other Chameleons, the Flap-Necked is predominantly an insectivore, feeding on grasshoppers, crickets, beetles, cockroaches and other insects. On occasion, it will feed on young mammals.
Sexual maturity among Flap-Necked Chameleons is achieved in about a year. They are oviparous (egg-layers) with only one clutch of about 50 eggs per year. The female gestates for about a month and the eggs hatch after about 6-7 months. A gravid female will be aggressive towards males and shows this by turning totally black and attacking the male head-on.
hiding, uneaten food, care, constipation, custommade cages
cork bark rolls, ample UVB exposure, lightweight screen cages
Hard to Resist-But Think Twice!
Chameleon enthusiasts have made great strides in recent years, but many remain challenging, even for those of us fortunate enough to work with them in zoos. Among the most unique and interesting of all reptiles, chameleons can be hard to resist, but please think and research carefully before making a decision to purchase one. The flap neck would be a good choice for beginners, were it not for the fact that so many in the trade are wild-caught. These almost always meet a bad end, so please search out captive bred youngsters.
Shy and completely arboreal, flap neck chameleons should be kept in custom-made cages that are vertically oriented and well-stocked with vines, cork bark rolls and sturdy plants. A single adult requires an enclosure at least 3 x 3 x 4 feet in size, but preferably larger. Pairs may co-exist, in larger quarters, but must be watched carefully. Glass terrariums do not supply the air circulation essential to good health. These are strictly “hands-off” pets – please ignore YouTube videos and advice to the contrary!
Flap neck chameleons require ample UVB exposure, and benefit from time outdoors in lightweight screen cages. Incandescent bulbs and ceramic heaters can be used to supply an ambient temperature range of 82-90 F, and a basking site of 95F. Humidity should be maintained at 50-65%. Moist coco-husk and sphagnum moss and, in dry homes, a reptile humidifier, will assist in maintaining the conditions they favor.
A wide variety of insects supplemented with powdered calcium and vitamins are essential to your chameleon’s well-being. Roaches are a particular favorite, and a steady supply should be in place before you purchase your pet. Crickets, silkworms, hornworms, locusts, lab-reared houseflies and other commercially-available insects, and an assortment of wild-caught invertebrates, should also be supplied. A diet comprised of crickets and mealworms alone, even if supplemented, are not adequate and will lead to your pet’s early demise..
In my time owning Zero, the flap neck chameleon, it was frustrating. He required lots of care, and it was increasingly difficult to ever get him to come out of hiding. He was always frightened by our curious cat (who never touched the habitat, just watched intently). We went to the beach one summer, and had our house-keeper look after him. She supplied him with crickets, checked the heat lamp, and added new foilage to the habitat. We always kept it nice and humid for him, and constantly kept him fed. We got a call that when she came back the next day, he was in the bottom of the cage, dead. Upon taking him to the vet, we were told he died of constipation....truly the most confusing animal death I've experienced to date. In all, he was more of a 'for show' animal and required more care than any other I've owned. I never was able to handle him, and I just feel that this animal is for someone with more experience with reptiles..