George Tobin : Surf Riding in Tahiti, 1792.
They are clean to a degree, both sexes generally bathing thrice a day in fresh water and it is somewhat remarkable that, except the children for amusement, the salt water is never frequented but from necessity, and at these times, if a river be contiguous, they make a point of washing in it afterwards.
six years of age amusing themselves in the heaviest surf with a small board on which they place themselves outside the breaking, whence they are driven with great velocity to the shore, fearless themselves, nor are the least apprehensions of accidents entertained by their parents.
Geoff Cater (1997-2013) : George Tobin : Surf Riding in Tahiti, 1792.