DeLorean Motor Company has identified an issue that affects some of the 107000 Fuel Pump/Sender Module that could allow the fuel pump to continue running if the inertia switch is "tripped". Today we are sending a letter to all purchasers of record of the 107000 Fuel Pump/Sender Module with instructions on how to quickly and easily test the unit and make a minor modification to correct this issue if required.
DMC Texas, DMC California, DMC Midwest, DMC Florida (Orlando) and DMC Northwest have all supplied us with lists of purchasers to whom we have sent these letters. Gulf Coast Motorworks (formerly DMC Florida in Bonita Springs, Florida) and DeLorean Europe (formerly DMC Europe in The Netherlands) have been unwilling or unable to supply us with the names of the customers who have purchased directly from either of those two locations, though we have supplied them with the same information and asked that they forward it on to their customers.
Contact DMC (Texas) at 800/872-3621 or 1-281-441-2537 with any questions.
For what its worth, I'm still loving my pump/sender combo. I'm over 2 years in with it and have had no issues! Previously I had fuel pump issues at least once a year.
Btw thanls for catching this and letting us know James. Keep up the good work!
This is really interesting. During some unrelated testing a few weeks back I discovered that my inertia switch didn't stop the fuel pump. I was wondering why but just assumed the switch was internally failed or something and didn't get back around to investigating further. Now I guess I know.
James - is it possible to remove the pin from the connector rather than cutting the wire? That seems awfully...irreversible to me.
You could just extract the pin and tape it off, but I can't imagine why you'd ever want to reverse this. Cut the wire on the pump side as shown and you haven't damaged anything that was "original" to the car, i.e. the original car side of the harness.
Did the mod today. Easy as everyone said, but the implementation isn't exactly perfect. When tripping the inertia switch there is now no ground to the fuel gage, so it pegs vertically. Theoretically you should never see this happen, and if it does you probably have bigger problems. Seems that the original wiring schematic had grounds independently for the fuel sender and pump (makes sense as there was no single unit controlling them before) and the upgraded logic unit must have mistakenly used a shared ground internally for them both. So now when you interrupt the only remaining ground via the inertia switch, the sender circuit goes offline too.
This may be a stupid question but assuming you keep everything they way it is (i.e. factory plug) and do not change the connector is the only implication that the inertia switch will not work and the fuel pump will still have power? I thought most modern cars today do not have inertia switches, is that true? If so, what is the big deal with not having one (i.e. not changing the plug or jumping it). Don't want to sound like someone who isn't interested in safety but just curious as to both sides of story. Also, when does the inertia switch engage? Front, side, rear impacts? Rollovers only? Again, just trying to be more educated about them.