Today I'm making a pair of shorts, and it turned out to be the perfect example of two different applications--as well as two different types of stay tape. Note: I'm using fusible stay tape from Emma Seabrooke. It's a fantastic product that comes in many varieties.
Okay, example #1: the zipper opening.
Here you see wide black woven stay tape applied to the center back seam, where an invisible zipper will go.
I chose 1-1/4" wide stay tape because it's double the width of a 5/8" seam allowance. When folded in, the seam allowance will be very stable. Added bonus: I insert invisible zippers by pressing in the seam allowances first, and the stay tape gives me a guide so I don't have to measure them.
The zipper opening is very important to stabilize. Have you ever sewn one side of a zipper, only to find that the other side is shorter and won't match up when the zipper is closed? That's because stitching a zipper in place can stretch out the fabric, making it longer than the other side. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to match up waistline seams!
Stay tape in the zipper opening seam allowances completely takes care of this problem. It also makes your zipper area look crisper and nicer.
Okay, on to the next area: the pocket opening.
These shorts have a very curved pocket opening, which easily stretches out of shape because of the fabric's bias. A narrow tape will stabilize the opening, preventing it from stretching during construction and wear.
In this case, I used a 1/2" knit stay tape. When stabilizing curves, it's crucial to use a stay tape that will curve as well. Knit stay tape can be manipulated around a curved seam. You can also find bias woven stay tape for this purpose. When stabilizing a seam like this, apply the tape so that it is centered over the seamline.
So there you have it--two real-world examples of choosing and using stay tapes!
OK, you've convinced me. I am stabilizing every zipper from now on. I usually use interfacing, but the fusible stay tape looks easier.
Can I just ask about the fabric you´re using for the shorts? It looks a lot like something I´ve been on the lookout for for a while but nothing´s been quite right yet. Right texture, right colour and all. Is it available online?
It's a navy cotton pique from Mood Fabrics in New York. I would definitely try their website, or just give them a call!
Thanks! A bit bothersome to call from Norway - expense and timezone-wise- but I´ll definitely give the website a try!
I am always wondering about this and have used it a little. This post was great. Thank you.
Have you had a chance to visit Max Bloch fabrics? My little sis just took me there when they have their weekly sale and I went nuts. Then again, I live in Las Vegas so good fabric stores are pretty hard to come by!
I love her knit stay tape! It makes hems on knit garments so much smoother!
This stay tape looks awesome, thanks for the recommendation!
i need to pick some of that up! i've been cutting my own from knit fusible, or regular fusible cut on the bias. i was shocked how much of a difference stabilizing a zipper opening made, which i started doing after watching sunni's zipper craftsy class. will never skip that step again!
I'm wondering: what is the benefit of using stay tape versus stay stitching?
I only see knit or double sided fusible stay tape on Emma Seabrooke's site. The stay tape you show for inserting a zipper is single sided woven, right? I would think using double sided wouldn't work.
Thanks! Always such useful info, Gertie.
I was never quite sure if it was counter productive to use bias stay tape on a curved seam. Thanks for clearing that up!
I'm cheap and just cut my stay tape out of fusible interfacing: along grain if I need sturdier support, to the bias if I need some stretch :) I guess buying ready made would make up the cost in time spent.
I'm glad I read your post I've been cutting narrow strips of fusible interfacing to use for zipper seam lines and pockets but this product is a time saver that I will be purchasing.
thanks so much for sharing! i will be keeping these tips in my back pocket and stocking up on on tapes!
Great! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together. Now I don't have to pull my hair out over the zipper I'm about to sew!
The last two dresses I've made don't quite match up at the waist; I'll use stay tape (or at least some fusible interfacing) next time!
Thanks!!! What a helpful post.
A really practical idea, thanks Gertie.
I wonder what it's called in french? Probably I won't be able to find it here, though you can get fusible interfacing.
Hello! Gerthie, if you have a minute (I guess you don't, with all the work for the new book, but anyways, let me ask...) I've been reading about stay tape, very interesting, I do need to apply it more often, I can see how important is to stabilise, specially on bias. I've seen in the other article you mention the book Professional sewing techniques for designers. The question is, do you recomend it? expensive as it is? You could dedicate us a post on sewing books, by the way, I love them, but I don't want to read any thing... Thanks, love.
I haven't really worked with stay tape, but I love how it looks on your zipper. Do you have any recommendations on which brands you like vs which ones aren't as great?
unrelated to this post, but i swear you recommended a sweater de-fuzzer a while back. i've searched your archives and can't find it. can you help a pill-y girl out and remind me what product it is?
I've never used or seen stay tape before and after reading this I found some in my sewing cabinet, inherited from my grandma. She left me so many great treasures; thanks Gertie for opening my eyes to this!
Have never done stay tape. I need to know more about it. Is there a best brand?