Swat District
(Redirected from Swat Valley)
District in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan
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سوات
Springtime photograph of the Swat River running through the valley, May 2015
Switzerland of the East[1]
Swat District, highlighted red, shown within the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Coordinates: 35°12′N 72°29′E / 35.200°N 72.483°E / 35.200; 72.483Coordinates: 35°12′N 72°29′E / 35.200°N 72.483°E / 35.200; 72.483
Malakand
Saidu Sharif
Mingora
• Type
• Deputy Commissioner
• District Police Officer
• District Health Officer
• District
5,337 km2 (2,061 sq mi)
(2017)[2]
• Rural
UTC+5 (PKT)
Area code 0946
Languages (1981)[3]
Pashto (90.28%)
Kohistani (8.67%)
Swat District (Urdu: ضلع سوات, Pashto: سوات ولسوالۍ, pronounced [ˈswaːt̪]) is a district in the Malakand Division of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. With a population of 2,309,570 per the 2017 national census, Swat is the 15th-largest district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province.
Swat District is centered on the Valley of Swat, usually referred to simply as Swat, which is a natural geographic region surrounding the Swat River. The valley was a major centre of early Buddhism under the ancient kingdom of Gandhara, and was a major centre of Gandharan Buddhism, with pockets of Buddhism persisting in the valley until the 10th century, after which the area became largely Muslim.[4][5] Until 1969, Swat was part of the Yusafzai State of Swat, a self-governing princely state that was inherited by Pakistan following its independence from British rule. The region was seized by the Tehrik-i-Taliban in late-2007 until Pakistani control was re-established in mid-2009.[6][7]
The average elevation of Swat is 980 m (3,220 ft),[5] resulting in a considerably cooler and wetter climate compared to the rest of Pakistan. With lush forests, verdant alpine meadows, and snow-capped mountains, Swat is one of the country's most popular tourist destinations.[8][9]
2.1 Valley
3.1 Vedic times
3.2 Greek
3.3 Gandhara
3.4 Hephthalite
3.5 Hindu Shahi
3.6 Muslim rule
3.7 Yousafzai State of Swat
3.8 Taliban destruction of Buddhist relics
7 Tribes
8.2 Provincial Assembly
9 Notable people
The name "Swat" is derived from the Swat River. The Swat River referred to as the Suvāstu -in the Rig Veda, with a literal meaning "of fair dwellings,"[10][11][12] which has been opined to refer to the presence of Aryan settlements along the river's course.[13] Some have suggested the Sanskrit name may mean "clear blue water."[14] Another theory derives the word Swat from the Sanskrit word shveta (lit. 'white'), also used to describe the clear water of the Swat River.[15] To the ancient Greeks, the river was known as the Soastus.[16][17][18][15] The Chinese pilgrim Faxian referred to Swat as the Su-ho-to.[19]
Geography[edit]
Upper Swat is enclosed by tall mountains
Swat's total area is 5,337 square kilometres (2,061 sq mi). In terms of administrative divisions, Swat is surrounded by Chitral, Upper Dir and Lower Dir to the west, Gilgit-Baltistan to the north, and Kohistan, Buner and Shangla to the east and southeast, respectively. The former tehsil of Buner was granted the status of a separate district in 1991.[20]
Valley[edit]
The Valley of Swat is delineated by natural geographic boundaries, and is centered on the Swat River, whose headwaters arise in the 18,000-19,000 foot tall Hindu Kush. The valley is enclosed on all sides by mountains, and is intersected by glens and ravines.[21] Above mountains ridges to the west is the valley of the Panjkora River, to the north the Gilgit Valley, and Indus River gorges to the east. To the south, across a series of low mountains, lies the wide Peshawar valley.[22]
The northernmost area of Swat district are the high valleys and alpine meadows of Swat Kohistan, a region where numerous glaciers feed the Usho, and Gabral rivers (also known as the Utrar River), which form a confluence at Kalam, and thereafter forms the Swat river - which forms the spine of the Swat Valley and district. Swat then is characterized by thick forests along the narrow gorges of the Kalam Valley until the city of Madyan. From there, the river courses gently for 160 km through the wider Yousufzai Plains of the lower Swat Valley until Chakdara.
Climate in Swat is a function of altitude, with mountains in the Kohistan region snow-clad year round. Upper reaches of the district are subject to cold, snowy winters. Drier, warmer temperatures in the lower portions of the district in the Yousafzai Plains where summer temperatures can reach 105 °F (41 °C), although the lower plains experience occasional snow.[21] Both regions are subject to two monsoon seasons - one in winter and the other in summer. Swats lower reaches have vegetation characterized by dry bush and deciduous trees, while upper reaches of the district have thick pine forests.[22]
Falak Sar, Swat's tallest mountain at 5,957 metres (19,544 ft)
Mount Mankial, which rises to 18,600 feet (5,700 m)
Pine forests occur in Swat at altitudes over 5,000 feet (1,500 m)
The northernmost region of Swat - a region known as Kohistan - has high alpine valley at the base of tall mountains
Jarogo Waterfall, in middle Swat
Alpine lakes, such as Mahodand Lake are found in the mountains of Swat Kohistan.
Alpine meadows in Utror
Vedic times[edit]
The earliest recorded history of the region, preserved through the oral tradition, was the settlement and societies of the Indo-Aryan peoples. The name for the Swat River that was recorded in the Rig Veda, Suvāstu, which may mean "fair dwellings," refers to the presence of Indo-Aryan settlements in the region.[13] The Gandhara grave culture that emerged c. 1400 BCE and lasted until 800 BCE,[23] and named for their distinct funerary practices, was found along the Middle Swat River course. Later movements of the Indo-Aryan tribes saw the emergence of ethnic Nuristani and Dardic populations.[24]
Greek[edit]
In 327 BCE, Alexander the Great fought his way to Odigram and Barikot and stormed their battlements; in Greek accounts, these towns are identified as Ora and Bazira. After the Alexandrian invasion of Swat, and adjacent regions of Buner, control of the wider Gandhara region was handed to Seleucus I Nicator.
Gandhara[edit]
See also: Oddiyana
1896 photo of a Buddha statue seated on a lotus throne in Swat
In 305 BCE, the Mauryan Emperor conquered the wider region from the Greeks, and probably established control of Swat, until their control of the region ceased around 187 BCE.[25] It was during the rule of the Mauryan emperor Ashoka that Buddhism was introduced into Swat,[26] and some of the earliest stupas built in the region.
Following collapse of Mauryan rule, Swat came under control of the Greco-Bactrians, and briefly the Scythians of the Central Asian Steppe.[27]
The region of Gandhara (based in the Peshawar valley and the adjacent hilly regions of Swat, Buner, Dir, and Bajaur), broke away from Greco-Bactrian rule to establish their own independence as the Indo-Greek Kingdom.[28] Following the death of the most famous Indo-Greek king, Menander I around 140 BCE, the region was overrun by the Indo-Scythians, and then the Persian Parthian Empire around 50 CE. The arrival of the Parthians began the long tradition of Greco-Buddhist art, which was a syncretic form of art combining Buddhist imagery with heavy Hellenistic-Greek influences. This art form is credited with having the first representations of the Buddha in human form, rather than symbolically.[citation needed]
The Parthians were ousted from Swat by the Kushans, based in the Peshawar valley. Kushan rule began what is considered by many to be the golden age of Gandhara. Under the greatest Kushan king, Kanishka, Swat became an important region for the production of Buddhist art, and numerous Buddhists shrines were built in the area. As a patron of Mahayana Buddhism, new Buddhists stupas were built and old ones were enlarged. The Chinese pilgrim Fa-Hsien, who visited the valley around 403 CE, mentions 500 monasteries.[29]
Butkara Stupa may have first been built during Mauryan rule in the 2nd century BCE
Amlukdara Stupa was built around the 3rd century CE, and is one of many Buddhist ruins in Swat
Nemogram Stupa, dating from the Kushan period c. 2-3 centuries CE, with many of its statues on display at the Swat Museum
Shingardar Stupa, a 27 meter tall stupa that is built along the main road that enters into Swat from the Peshawar Valley.[30]
Shamozi Stupa
Hephthalite[edit]
Swat and the wider region of Gandhara were overrun by the Iranian Hephthalites around about 465 CE.[31] Under the rule of Mihirakula, Buddhism was suppressed as he himself became virulently anti-Buddhist after a perceived slight against him by a Buddhist monk.[32] Under his rule, Buddhist monks were reportedly killed, and Buddhist shrines attacked.[32] He himself appears to have been inclined towards the Shaivism sect of Hinduism.[32]
In around 520 CE, the Chinese monk Song Yun visited the area, and recorded that area had been in ruin and ruled by a leader that did not practice the laws of the Buddha.[33] The Tang-era Chinese monk Xuanzang recorded the decline of Buddhism in the region, and ascendance of Hinduism in the region. According to him, of the 1400 monasteries that had supposedly been there, most were in ruins or had been abandoned.[34]
Hindu Shahi[edit]
Raja Gira was the site of a fortress from which the Hindu Shahis ruled Swat
Following the collapse of Buddhism in Swat following the Hephthalite invasion, Swat was ruled by the Hindu Shahi dynasty beginning in the 8th century,[35] who made their capital at Udigram in lower Swat.[35] The Shahis built an extensive array of temples and other architectural buildings, of which ruins remain today. Under their rule, Hinduism ascended, and Sanskrit is believed to have been the lingua franca of the locals during this time.[36] By the time of the Muslim conquests (c. 1000 CE), the population in the region was predominantly Hindu,[37]: 19 though Buddhism persisting in the valley until the 10th century, after which the area became largely Muslim.[4][5] Hindu Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area,[38] and ruins dating back to their rule can be seen on the hills at the southern entrance of Swat, at the Malakand Pass.[39]
Muslim rule[edit]
The Mahmud Ghaznavi Mosque was built in the former Hindu Shahi capital of Odigram shortly after their defeat, and dates to 1048–49 CE.
Around 1001 CE, the last Hindu Shahi king, Jayapala was decisively defeated at the Battle of Peshawar (1001) by Mahmud of Ghazni, thereby ending 2 centuries of Hindu rule over Gandhara. Sometime later, ethnic Swatis entered the area along with Sultans from Kunar (present-day Afghanistan).
Yousafzai State of Swat[edit]
Main article: Swat (princely state)
The Yousafzai State of Swat was a kingdom established in 1849 by the Muslim saint Akhund Abdul Gaffur, more commonly known as Saidu Baba,[40][37] that was ruled by chiefs known as Akhunds. It was then recognized as a princely state in alliance with the British Indian Empire between 1926 and 1947, after which the Akhwand acceded to the newly independent state of Pakistan. Swat continued to exist as an autonomous region until it was dissolved in 1969,[41] and incorporated into Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province (formerly called NWFP).
Taliban destruction of Buddhist relics[edit]
Main article: Second Battle of Swat
The Buddhist rock carvings of Manglawar were damaged by the Taliban, but restored with Italian aid.
The region was seized by the Tehrik-i-Taliban in late-2007,[6] and its highly-popular tourist industry was subsequently decimated until Pakistani control was re-established in mid-2009 after a month-long campaign.[7] During their occupation, the Taliban attacked Nobel laureate Malala Yousafzai in 2012, who at the time was a young school-girl who wrote a blog for BBC Urdu detailing life under Taliban rule, and their curb on girls' education.
Kushan-era Buddhist stupas and statues in the Swat Valley were demolished by the Taliban,[42] and the Jehanabad Buddha's face was blown up using dynamite,[43][44] but was repaired by a group of Italian restorers in a nine-year-long process.[45] The Taliban and looters subsequently destroyed many of Pakistan's Buddhist artifacts,[46] and deliberately targeted Gandhara Buddhist relics for destruction.[47] Gandhara artifacts remaining from the demolitions were thereafter plundered by thieves and smugglers.[48]
Economy[edit]
Approximately 38% of economy of Swat depends on tourism[49] and 31% depends on agriculture.[50]
Agriculture[edit]
Gwalerai village located near Mingora is one of those few villages which produces 18 varieties of apples due to its temperate climate in summer. The apple produced here is consumed in Pakistan as well as exported to other countries. It is known as 'the apple of Swat'.[51] Swat is famous for peach production mostly grown in the valley bottom plains and accounts for about 80% of the peach production of the country. Mostly marketed in the national markets with a brand name of "Swat Peaches". The supply starts in April and continues till September because of a diverse range of varieties grown.
Photograph of Mingora, the largest city in Swat – May 2014
The population of Swat District is 2,309,570 as per the 2017 census, making it the third-largest district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa after Peshawar District and Mardan District.[52] With the exception of the uppermost regions of the valley, which are inhabited by Dardic Kohistanis, Swat is mostly inhabited by Yusufzai Pashtuns.[5] The language spoken in the valley is Pashto (mainly the Yousafzai dialect), with a minority of Torwali and Kalami speakers in the Swat Kohistan region of Upper Swat.
According to the Alif Ailaan Pakistan District Education Rankings for 2017, Swat District with a score of 53.1, is ranked 86 out of 155 districts in terms of education. Furthermore, school infrastructure score is 90.26 ranking the district at number 31 out of 155 districts.[53]
Tribes[edit]
Pashtuns
Yusufzai
Gujjars[54]
Administrative divisions[edit]
The District of Swat is subdivided into 7 tehsils:[55]
Babuzai
Khwaza Khela
Barikot
Kabal
Charbagh
Each tehsil comprises certain numbers of union councils. There are 65 union councils in the district: 56 rural and 9 urban.
According to the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Local Government Act, 2013,[56] a new local governments system was introduced, in which Swat District is included. This system has 67 wards, in which the total amount of village councils are around 170, while neighbourhood councils number around 44.[57]
Politics[edit]
The region elects three male members of the National Assembly of Pakistan (MNAs), one female MNA, seven male members of the Provincial Assembly of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (MPAs)[58] and two female MPAS. In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, the Muttahida Majlis-e-Amal, an alliance of religious political parties, won all the seats.
Provincial Assembly[edit]
Member of Provincial Assembly
Party Affiliation
Sharafat Ali Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PK-2 Swat-I 2018
Sardar Khan Pakistan Muslim League (N) PK-3 Swat-II 2018
Aziz Ullah Khan Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PK-4 Swat-III 2018
Fazal Hakeem Khan Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PK-5 Swat-IV 2018
Amjad Ali Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PPK-6 Swat-V 2018
Waqar Ahmad Khan Awami National Party PK-7 Swat-VI 2018
Mohib Ullah Khan Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PK-8 Swat-VII 2018
Mahmood Khan Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf PK-9 Swat-VIII 2018
Notable people[edit]
This section does not cite any sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (August 2019) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)
Mubarika Yusufzai
Wāli of Swat
Mahmood Khan
Ziauddin Yousafzai
Muhib Ullah Khan
Anwar Ali
Nazia Iqbal
Ghazala Javed
Afzal Khan Lala
Haider Ali Khan
Malak Jamroz Khan
Nasirul Mulk
Murad Saeed
Shaheen Sardar Ali
Rahim Shah
Sherin Zada
Akhund of Swat
Lower Swat Valley
Oḍḍiyāna
Swat (princely state)
Lower Dir District
Upper Dir District
Chitral District
Buner District
Kaghan Valley
Kohistan District
1974 Hunza earthquake
Operation Black Thunderstorm
Operation Rah-e-Rast
2009 refugee crisis in Pakistan
Pushtu People
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^ Vidyalankar, Satyakam (1977). R̥gveda Saṃhitā. Veda Pratishthan. The word suvastu means " having fair dwellings '
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^ Susan Whitfield (2018). Silk, Slaves, and Stupas: Material Culture of the Silk Road. University of California Press. p. 136. ISBN 978-0-520-95766-4.
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^ bart.), sir Edward Herbert Bunbury (9th (1879). A history of ancient geography among the Greeks and Romans. J. Murray.
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^ 1998 District Census report of Buner. Census publication. 98. Islamabad: Population Census Organization, Statistics Division, Government of Pakistan. 2000. p. 1.
^ a b Paget, William Henry (1874). A Record of the Expeditions Undertaken Against the North-west Frontier Tribes. Superintendent of government printing.
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^ Olivieri, Luca M., Roberto Micheli, Massimo Vidale, and Muhammad Zahir, (2019). 'Late Bronze - Iron Age Swat Protohistoric Graves (Gandhara Grave Culture), Swat Valley, Pakistan (n-99)', in Narasimhan, Vagheesh M., et al., "Supplementary Materials for the formation of human populations in South and Central Asia", Science 365 (6 September 2019), pp. 137-164.
^ Mallory, J. P.; Adams, Douglas Q. (1997). Encyclopedia of Indo-European Culture. ISBN 9781884964985.
^ Callieri, Pierfrancesco (1997). Saidu Sharif I (Swat, Pakistan). IsMEO. Having brought under its domination part of Afghanistan and , most probably , Swat ( Tucci 1978 ) , the Maurya dynasty died out around 187 BC
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^ Ahmad, Makhdum Tasadduq (1962). Social Organization of Yusufzai Swat: A Study in Social Change. Panjab University Press. They ruled this area for nearly 150 years when they were replaced first by Bactrians and latter by the Scythians
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^ Petrie, Cameron A. (28 December 2020). Resistance at the Edge of Empires: The Archaeology and History of the Bannu basin from 1000 BC to AD 1200. Oxbow Books. ISBN 978-1-78570-304-1.
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^ Sorrow and Joy Among Muslim Women The Pushtuns of Northern Pakistan By Amineh Ahmed Published by Cambridge University Press, 2006 Page 21.
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^ https://korbah.com/hotels/?location_name=Swat&location_id=9694&start=&end=&date=19%2F01%2F2020+12%3A00+am-20%2F01%2F2020+11%3A59+pm&room_num_search=1&adult_number=1&child_number=0&price_range=0%3B23250&taxonomy%5Bhotel_facilities%5D=
^ Chief Editor. "Swat Economy". kpktribune.com. Retrieved 17 February 2016.
^ Amjad Ali Sahaab (17 August 2015). "Gwalerai — The little village behind Swat's famous apples". dawn.com. Retrieved 17 February 2016.
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Malala Yousafzai (8 October 2013), I Am Malala: The Girl Who Stood Up for Education and Was Shot by the Taliban, Little, Brown, ISBN 9780316322416
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Districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Provincial capital: Peshawar
Abaseen
Bannu
Lakki Marwat
North Waziristan
Dera Ismail Khan
South Waziristan
Battagram
Haripur
Kolai-Palas
Lower Kohistan
Mansehra
Torghar
Upper Kohistan
Karak
Kurram
Orakzai
Buner
Lower Chitral
Lower Dir
Shangla
Upper Dir
Upper Chitral
Bajaur
Mardan
Swabi
Charsadda
Nowshera
Administrative divisions of Swat District
Behrain
Union councils
Amankot Faizabad
Aka Maruf Bami Khel
Asharay
Baidara
Bar Abakhel
Banr Ingaro Dherai
Bara Bandai
Bar Thana
Bara Samai
Beshigram
Biha
Churprial
Darmai
Dangram
Dherai
Dewlai
Durushkhela
Gabral
Ghaligay
Gulibagh
Gulkada
Gwalary
Jano Chamtalay
Kala Kalay
Khwazakhela
Kishawara
Kokarai
Kotanai
Koz Abakhel
Kuza Bandai
Madyan
Malakabad
Malakanan Landakass
Manglawar
Mankyal
Matta Kharai
Miandam
Rahimabad
Rang Muhallah
Ronyal
Qamber
Qalagay
Sakhra
Shah Dehrai
Shalpin
Shamozai
Shawar
Sherpalam
Taligram
Tendo Dag
Tirat
Totano Bandai
Odigram
Utroor
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