What kind of tires will BIKESTUDs work with?
Our studs are made for tires with pre-formed pockets to accept studs. Most such tires are meant for fat bikes. Studdable models include the Dillinger, Escalator, and Wrathchild from 45NRTH; Vee Snowshoe XL and Avalanche; Bontrager Gnarwhal, Terrene Wazia, Cake Eater, and Johnny 5; and any others where you can see a small round hole in the tire knob. We have yet to find a studdable tire they don't fit.
They will also work as replacement studs in nearly any factory-studded tire for any kind of bicycle, such as Nokian, Suomi, Schwalbe, Continental, and others.
Can I use these studs in regular bike tires?
No. If you are hoping to put studs in a standard bicycle tire that does not have pockets, these studs are not appropriate for your application. There are various brands of screw-in studs for that purpose. We have also seen many DIY options, some of which look viable…. and some not so much.
How do various stud types differ?
First and foremost, flat tip studs are the most affordable. You can save money studding your own tires, for far less than the cost of pre-studded tires.
Flat-tip studs are totally flat on top (not pointed or domed), which means the entire edge of the carbide cylinder digs sharply into the ice, like a knife edge.
Pointed-tip studs offer less aggressive traction because they only grip at a single point (which dulls quickly), and for these reasons we no longer carry them.
Concave-tip studs have similar traction to the flat-tip. Some find that the hollow center helps them self-sharpen as they wear, though they may wear a bit faster than flat tip studs.
Crown-tip (Triple-Traction) studs are similar to concave tip studs, but the ring around the tip has a wavy edge making three distinct traction points per stud. They have similar wear characteristics to pointed and concave tip studs. The Ultra XL version has an extra-wide tip for the most aggressive grip on the market.
Which studs should I get?
Our most popular stud is the flat tip version, notably for its affordability and excellent traction, along with the best durability of any stud type--it's the best bang for the buck and offers a tremendous improvement over a non-studded tire for icy surfaces.
Concave tips are offered for those who prefer something to match the factory-installed studs of particular brands.
Crown-tip studs are for those who want the ultimate traction experience.
Getting studs is the most important decision... that gets you most of the way to the best traction you can get. The difference between various stud types is splitting hairs to some degree, accounting for perhaps the last 10% of traction improvement. Using studs of any type will substantially improve traction in icy conditions.
Do I need the tool?
Yes. Studs cannot be inserted without an appropriate tool. Our tool is custom made specifically for this purpose, and improvised alternatives are clumsy at best. Remember, you're likely to insert 100 or more studs... our tool makes it easy and worry-free. We have them made in a factory now, but used to make them ourselves... Check it out.
It is not a difficult process. Time consuming? Well… it can be, but it's not hard. It typically takes an hour or less per tire with a break here and there (it's possible your hand/s will get a little tired). See our tire stud installation guide for helpful tips to make it as fast and easy as possible.
Will they make my tires heavy?
No. Well, not meaningfully so. Our flat tip studs are 0.25 grams each (0.30 g for concave tip), which means studding an entire Dillinger 4 adds just 60 grams to the tire weight (or 72 g for concave tips). The body is made of lightweight aluminum, with tungsten carbide insert at the tip.
How many studs do I need?
Stud quantity varies by tire model. The table below lists capacities for the most common options. Some riders opt to partially stud their tires, focusing on certain areas of the tread pattern. That said, studding all the holes provides the best traction. Whichever you choose, keep in mind that if you ride the tire before you stud them, the pockets will get filled with dirt and pebbles that need to be removed before you can put studs in.