In heavily Catholic New Orleans, All Saints’ Day (November 01) and All Souls’ Day (November 02) have been observed for centuries through rituals celebrating life over death.
The blending of cultures in New Orleans has produced not only some of the nation’s most distinctive architecture, food and music but perhaps its most remarkable and marvelous traditions, each ingrained in the eccentric psyche of the city. Some of the most profound occur around Halloween, All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day, when the Catholic, Voodoo, Mexican, Irish, and French cultures converge in spirited rituals celebrating life over death.
New Orleanians honor the lives of dead loved-ones by painting tombs with brilliant whitewashes – colloquially, “Keeping up the family vault” - placing yellow marigolds and red coxcombs on graves and ringing statuary with wreaths of black glass beads called immortelles. On these days, cemeteries throughout the city come alive with the flickering glow from fields of candles, as death is forgotten and lives lived are celebrated.
With the influx of Irish immigrants in the late 1700’s the city was introduced to the soul cake, for in local Irish culture children earned small, round cakes instead of candy as they went door to door singing songs and praying for the dead. As tradition goes, for each cake eaten, a soul is freed from Purgatory to enjoy a more Heavenly life.
In Voodoo, Creole ancestors are honored in the Dumb Supper ritual. Under the direction of a priestess this ceremony pays tribute to the divine spirits (lwa or loa) who advocate for the dead as they “cross the dark waters of the Great Abyss”. The Gede are the spirits who empower death and fertility, along with Mamam Brigitte— wife of the keeper of graveyards, Baron Samedi. Offerings during the ritual include black and purple candles, sunglasses with one eye missing to acknowledge Gede’s ability to see in both worlds. Along with cigars, rhum, and black beads or rosaries, devotees are encouraged to bring photographs or other items to honor their loved-ones.
Although Día de los Muertos is celebrated across Mexico, the city of Oaxaca is the epicenter of festivity…and mezcal. During these days, the deceased return to visit their families and friends as the veil between this world and the afterlife is briefly lifted. Marigold garlands flood the streets illuminating the city in a vibrant orange. Parades wind through the city, costumed characters’ faces painted as calaveras (or skulls) for both a ghoulish and magical feel. Marching bands, leading these parades, blare their trumpets and guitars, inciting dancing and singing while oversized papier-mâché skeletons and puppets tower above the parades—guiding the cacophony of music and jubilee.
All tolled, All Saints’ and All Souls’ Day is one of seven distinctly local traditions we observe annually at International House. Staff don stylish black and place hundreds of white candles, marigolds, chrysanthemums, and coxcombs along the bar, altar and hotel lobby creating our own cross-cultural Spirit Table where your offerings and remembrances are welcome. From October 27 – November 2, International House and Loa invite you to bring photos or other memorabilia of your loved-ones to join us in honoring them in this sacred ritual of celebration, as only New Orleans can – cocktail in hand.
This year, Loa bar’s Creative Director, Abigail Gullo, has created cocktails inspired by some of the marvelous flavors chosen by the people and places that shaped this city and its Day of the Dead. Cóctel de Muerto, an anise and orange-scented egg white drink topped with a skull and crossbones form. Frozen Mexican hot chocolate, laced with cinnamon and chili can be fortified by glug of smokey mezcal. Irish Whiskey based coffee drink that is good for your soul. A smoked Haitian Rhum Old Fashioned worthy of the Baron himself. In the whimsically named “Reposado in Pace” Mezcal or Reposado Tequila is paired with a small portion of homemade pecan milk, pressed from local pecans. Its ashen hue echoes the centuries old tradition in New Orleans of whitewashing tombs. The drink is served in vintage crystal and wreathed with yellow and red flowers.
To balance the playfulness, LOA will light a vast array of more than 200 candles creating a mood worthy of this beautiful space.
No other city has the joyful celebration of life which permeates New Orleans’ culture in every way. It seasons the experience here with an appealing joie de vivre that places New Orleans among the nation’s most interesting and exotic cities.