The indigenous Boruca (Brunka) people of Costa Rica, their famous hand-carved masks and the annual Festival de los Diablos.
Winding through the Talamanca mountains the sky is gleaming blue, wispy clouds float and swirl across the valley as our car climbs the steep ridge. Following the dusty road, with our family who was visiting for Christmas, we continue to climb and admire the beauty of the nature that surrounds us, as we head toward Boruca. The landscape looks like a painting.
The Boruca (or Brunka) are a tribe of indigenous people living in the Southern Pacific section of Costa Rica, in the Talamanca mountains, near the Panama border. The population of the tribe is over 2,000, mostly residing in the Reserva Boruca. The Reserva Boruca-Terraba was among the first indigenous reserves established in Costa Rica and has a colorful history.
Most indigenous tribes in Costa Rica were defeated by the Spanish conquistadors in the 1500's, but the Boruca were one of the few native tribes to survive the conflict with their community, village and tribe identity still in place. As soon as you enter the charming Borucan territory you can feel the pride they hold and share for their sense of culture, artistry and community.
The Borucan population's main source of income is from the sale of indigenous arts and crafts. The Brunka's handcrafts are a huge part of the community, holding both cultural and economic value. Nearly 80% of the population participates in the indigenous arts, selling their unique and colorful handmade creations to tourists and visitors.
The most well-known indigenous art in Boruca are the famous hand-painted masks, made for the annual Festival de los Diablitos, which are sold all over Costa Rica. The masks are made of balsa wood, or cedar, and are hand-painted using natural dyes. Most have the face of a devil and are worn by the Borucan men during the Juego de los Diablitos (The Dance of the Little Devils), their traditional New Years celebration.
After arriving in Boruca we head into the museum to admire the vibrant collection of masks hanging on display, and we learn about the background of the Brunka people and the tradition of their annual Festival de los Diablos.
A festival of many names, the annual Danza de los Diablitos is a three-day New Years fiesta, which typically takes place between Dec 31 - Jan 2, and has been celebrated every winter since early colonial times. The Danza ceremony is a reenactment of the resistance of the "Diablo", which symbolizes the victory of the Boruca people against the Spanish conquistadors.
Upon arrival to the area the Spanish people called the Brunka people devils because they were not baptized, and it was instead assumed they worshipped the devil. This is why the main characters in the annual festival are the devils, or "diablos", or little devils, "diablitos".
The devils dress up in these intricate hand-carved masks, as the masks represent the indigenous defeating the Spanish. The indigenous tribes only had natural weapons, facing the advanced weaponry of the Spanish, and believed in the power of animals for protection, like the jaguar.
Wandering the peaceful village, we make a few stops to chat with some local artists. Some are outside their homes, under shade, carving. Some are inside, putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces. Many artists sell from their living rooms and you may be invited inside to admire their collection.
After touring the village, we decide on our purchases. With so many intricate, detailed, colorful masks to choose from the decision is not an easy one. But we are happy with our choices and stop at a scenic view point on our way out to snap some photos and make some lasting Borucan memories.
I will be proud to hang our vibrant and unique Borucan mask on our wall, to forever watch over us and always remind us to stand up for what we believe in and to fight for what we stand for.
The Boruca people remind us that a community cannot be defeated if in fact their culture still remains alive today.
“We continue. We continue fighting because there are many things that strike us, that hit us and try to destroy us, but we continue to fight despite it all. We fight to maintain — to maintain our culture, to be united for the well-being of our culture.” – Damaris Morales, school teacher in Boruca
Kari Pinkerton Silcox
It would be a tragedy to die, having never really lived. Which is why my husband Andy and I quit our jobs, sold our house and decided to chase our dreams. We moved to Costa Rica without a plan, and this is the story of our adventure.