The Co-op received a generous bag of perfectly ripe Meyer lemons. These had to be processed right away, as they were at their peak and would spoil quickly. A quick way to preserve lemons (or limes) is to make preserved lemons with salt, known variously as Moroccan preserved lemons or Indian lemon pickle. You’ll find smallish jars with impressive prices at specialty stores, but it is so easy to make your own. Wash thoroughly and slice off about 1/4″ at both ends. Slice nearly through, but leave one end intact, a bit like an open flower. Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of kosher salt in your clean jar, then sprinkle the open lemons with salt as you layer them in. Push down forcefully to press them and extract juice so that the uppermost lemons are covered in juice, then sprinkle with more salt. Close tightly, then let sit for 4 to 6 weeks. Periodically shake the jar. To use, simply rinse the lemons and finely chop the rind, and use instead of salt. Add to couscous or rice, or add to stews and dips. You’ll find lots of uses for anything seasoned with lemon and salt.
Meyer lemons simply preserved with salt and their own juice
These lemons were also made into a marmalade base, using the standard citrus prep technique.
Citrus prep for marmalade, with a pectin bag for cores and seeds
Using the golden 6 cup rule, 6 cups of the mix was cooked with sugar and then flavored.
For a tarter marmalade flavored with sprig of fresh rosemary in the jar, only 4 cups of sugar was added. Pomegranate molasses is a tart addition, so 5 cups of sugar went into that batch. When three tablespoons of orange flower water was added, the standard 6 cups of sugar, or 1:1 ratio worked well. All are good and fun to try, but honestly, with a Meyer lemon base, just about anything tastes brilliant!
You can find a loquat tree in nearly every neighborhood in Los Angeles. All the trees are bearing heavily this year, perhaps in response to the drought conditions. Sadly, much of this fruit will end up in green cans for green waste management, as there are more than even our hungry squirrels and raccoons can eat. But you can harvest and preserve this local crop, with just a little effort. Loquat fruits are mostly seed and not very juicy, but once cooked they do have a delightful subtle flavor, evoking almonds (from the seeds) and roses. Thanks to Co-op members and a dear friend of the Co-op, Nadine, for the loquat harvest. Nadine invited us to harvest her loquats, and Cyd (Co-op stalwart) and I went home with not only 50 pounds of loquats but armfuls of blooming iris and lilies from Nadine’s wonderful Hollywood Hills mediterranean garden. The best of Hollywood!
Look for recipes and step by step instructions here soon for loquat jelly as well as pickled loquats.
The Co-op had lots of ripe, sweet Valencia oranges a few weeks ago. A bounty of former orchards ripened in our back yards and there will be more. We literally gave them away in a box in front of Co-op HQ for any interested passers-by. My family’s birthday calendar and my culinary strengths (baking and preserves) happily coincided with this Co-op surplus. I made this cake twice in 10 days, and I recommend it to you as it is the happy confluence of easy and delicious.
You can dress it up with an orange curd between the layers and cover it with a meringue, or simply mince and macerate strawberries and mangos for a filling and topping.
Basically, this cake is excellent by itself and amenable to your ideas. It is so simple that you probably have the ingredients in your kitchen right now. It takes about an hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°. Spray two 8-inch round cake pans with vegetable-oil spray and line the bottoms with parchment paper. Spray the paper too.
In a large bowl or the bowl of your electric stand mixer, mix the flour with the sugar, baking powder, salt and orange zest. Mix well at medium speed, then beat in the eggs, juice, and butter until blended, about 2 minutes. Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake for about 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake comes out clean. Let cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then invert the cakes onto a rack to cool completely. Peel off the parchment paper.
Either fill with fresh chopped strawberries, mangoes, or whatever you like, or make an orange curd filling.
Orange Curd: In a medium saucepan, combine a cup of orange juice, 1/3 c sugar, 3 tbsp flour and about 2 tsp orange zest. Keep whisking constantly over heat until the mixture thickens and starts to boil. Take off the heat and whisk in a hefty tbsp of butter. Set aside to cool with a piece of plastic wrap over the top to prevent a skin forming.
Italian MeringueIcing: This is a treat that my family loves, as it is lighter than a buttercream and really attractive. My grandmother Nonny made a wonderful 7 minute frosting, and this is right along that line.
In a small saucepan, bring 1 cup sugar and 1/3 c water to a boil to the soft ball stage, or 240 degrees. (You will need an electric mixer for this, or someone to help.) Meanwhile, beat 3 egg whites with a pinch (1/8 tsp) cream of tartar to the soft peak stage. While you are beating the egg whites, slowly pur in the hot sugar syrup and beat continuously for about 8 minutes, until the meringue is smooth and glossy.
To assemble the cake, split the layers and fill with the orange curd, then frost. I decorated this one with lemon balm leaves and a geranium flower. It is not overly sweet or rich, but fresh and yummy.
I love that Cyd is an intuitive cook as well as an adventurous spirit. He took home some of the Co-op’s kumquat harvest to preserve and share, according to our mission. Cyd is attuned to his immediate environment, keeping an eye on our deer and local fruits, and had climbed up on a Nichols Canyon hillside and harvested local fennel seeds. Using these saved seeds, he flavored a kumquat marmalade. Genius! He also combined basic chocolate with kumquats to make Kumquat Chocolate sauce. Right?? The tart citrus notes balance the rich chocolate, and it makes a delicately nuanced sauce that transforms a plain matzoh cracker to something sublime. (That is one way I like to taste things, as a matzoh is kind of a blank culinary slate.) We’ll get the recipes from Cyd and post them on the ‘Recipes’ tab. We are all looking forward to whatever Cyd will cook up next!
Cyd and I harvested 30 pounds of kumquats from a tree in Pasadena, and with 30 pounds, there is room for creativity. Beata gave the Co-op a large bag of organic cocoa nibs and came over to help us do some preserving. The jars, the steaming pots of water, and the fruit all reminded Beata of her childhood in Poland, watching her mother put those lovely seasonal strawberries and cherries in jars. Even hearing the ‘ping’ of jars cooling down evoked memories.
Kumquats with cocoa nibs and chili pepper, nearly at the canning stage
But I don’t think anyone has memories quite like this flavor.
Prepared halved kumquats were cooked with cocoa nibs. Once softened, chili pepper flakes were stirred in and then sugar was added. This preserve is moderately sweet, spicy/hot, and has that bitter richness from the cocoa nibs to balance out the acidity. It also has a terrific contrast texture, smooth jelly and crunchy nibs. I really want to stir in soy sauce and dip dumplings in this one, or maybe spread some on a warm tortilla. What will you do?
The recipe is on the ‘Recipes’ tab, Kumquat Chili Pepper Preserves with Cocoa Nibs’. The name may be pragmatic, but the flavors are a flight of fancy.