When cutting ornamental grasses, tying the stalks into bundles makes them… (FRAN KITTEK, SPECIAL TO…)
It is finally March and the official start of spring is only a few weeks away. It's still too early for many activities, but we can get started on preparing the garden. I know many of you are already busy starting seeds, so here are a few things you can do on those wonderful warm, sunny days that we will finally see now and again.
•Ornamental grasses will start sprouting soon. When the first signs of green appear in the clump, it is time to cut off last year's growth. A commonly recommended process is to tie up the dried grass into a bundle before cutting it down. This makes cleanup a lot easier. The grass should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground. Always use gloves, and while pruning shears are good for small clusters, larger clumps might be better trimmed with a weed trimmer, hedge cutter or even chainsaw on larger varieties.
What about dividing those ornamental grasses? Grasses are best divided when they are actively growing. In the spring, when the new growth can be seen is the perfect time to divide large clumps of grass. Small clumps can be lifted out and then divided by cutting or pulling apart the clump into smaller portions, making sure each division has roots.
Large clumps can be treated in the same manner if you have the strength and energy to dig the entire clumps out. An alternate solution is to cut the clump into sections and remove these smaller sections for further division.
•When the soil is workable — not frozen, not wet, but crumbly, a lightly compressed handful breaks apart when dropped on a hard surface, you can work the soil. Do not work wet soil! It compacts into a dense mass that is not good for plants.
Digging, tilling, soil testing and amending are all good projects for a warm March day. Clean and prepare beds for annuals and vegetables. Dig in or top-dress soil and add compost, aged manure or other supplements recommended by a recent soil test.
Don't over-till your soil. An over-tilled bed has poor soil texture as it is ground into a fine dust. Another problem with tilling can be the development of a hard pan under the bed. What do I mean? For example, if you constantly till a bed to the same eight-inch depth, that ninth inch can become compressed and create a surface that doesn't allow water to seep through.
More on ticks
A reader, Judy Greco, had a few additional thoughts on ticks:
One comment I would like to make on your recent answer to the question "where are the ticks" concerns the nymphal deer tick that is prevalent in the spring and early summer. This tick literally is the size of a poppy seed and is responsible for greater than 90 percent of tick-borne infections. Many of us in our group never saw a tick or knew that we had a tick bite. Nymphal ticks do not move around much but hang out in leaf litter, grass, edges of properties, ground cover, etc. This is why we feel that it is so important to educate the public about prevention.
Judy is the cofounder of the Lehigh Valley Lyme Support group, whose purpose is supporting and improving the lives of those who have Lyme disease or are suffering from other tick-related co-infections.
In the garden
If you've had enough winter and really need a taste of spring, get out to a flower show this week. The Philadelphia International Show (www.theflowershow.com) runs through next weekend. The theme, "Brilliant!" focuses on the gardens of Great Britain. Our local show, the Valley Flower, Garden and Pool Show (www.valleyflowershow.com) at the Agri-Plex at the Allentown Fairgrounds, runs next weekend (March 8-10). Local landscapers, agricultural education schools and the Penn State Master Gardeners join Lehigh Valley Garden Railroads to provide inspiration and information on outdoor living.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at firstname.lastname@example.org or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
This Week in the Garden
•Start seeds for: dianthus. Finish sowing seeds for transplanting for: ageratum, lobelia, scabiosa, torenia and verbena. Next week start: Dahlia, larkspur, and portulaca.
•Create and follow a schedule for starting seeds. Check packets for instructions such as start indoors four weeks before last frost date. Then, using a calendar, count back from your area's date (April 10-15 for southern Lehigh Valley, May 10-15 for northern areas) for the appropriate starting time.
•Cut back ornamental grasses. Divide clumps when you see new growth.
•Examine shrubs and trees. Finish winter pruning.
•Get seeds for plants that you intend to start yourself. Check germination rate of stored seeds.
•Check for heaved plants on days when there is no snow cover.
•Test soil for new beds. Retest soil in poorly performing areas.
•Inventory and restock planting supplies. Clean and disinfect pots and trays used for seed starting and transplants.