3rd January 2019
Understanding Diamonds – The 4 Cs: Carat, Colour, Clarity and Cut
As nature’s hardest and most precious product, diamonds are simple in structure, yet complex. A diamond is pure carbon and its atomic structure gives it hardness, as well as its wonderful light refracting qualities. Formed deep beneath the earth, diamonds are created over millions of years – layer upon layer of carbon – with tiny particles and substances affecting the stone’s colour and clarity along the way.
Carat – This refers to the weight of a diamond – 1 carat weighs 0.2 of a gram. The heavier a diamond, the more precious it will be. Diamonds in the 3-5 carat range can make beautiful, rare, yet wearable gemstones, and with over 5 carats we move into the spectacular
jewel range, with values to match. According to Henry Pruwer, Londonbased diamond specialist and bespoke jeweller, clients nearly always want the largest stone possible. However, he advises not to compromise on colour and clarity: whatever the size, the key is to wear a jewel full of life and sparkle.
Colour – A perfect white diamond actually has no colour at all. A grade of D means colourless, going down the alphabet all the way to Z for dark brown. The brightest whites are D, E and F, after which G and H are clean white. In diamonds graded I and lower, the colour is progressively more noticeable. When choosing a white diamond, Pruwer recommends an F or G colour for the best combination of value and brilliance, and check for GIA certification. Fancy coloured diamonds can be especially beautiful, ranging from yellow to pink, red and blue for exceptionally rare collectable stones. Fancy yellow diamonds feature in many fine pieces.
Clarity – Tiny particles or structures in a diamond are part of its nature, but they can affect the way light travels through the stone, making it less bright or even milky in appearance. A Flawless diamond is the ultimate in clarity, but VS graded diamonds can also look beautiful. These have very small inclusions completely invisible to the naked eye. Diamonds with more or bigger inclusions, graded SI or lower, can make great jewels but should be bought with the advice of a specialist. Pruwer suggests VS is a good choice for a fabulous but more affordable jewel.
Cut – The way a diamond is cut and polished will decide its ultimate beauty and sparkle. A round diamond gives the most brilliance, other shapes, such as oval, cushion or emerald cut will have their own unique character. A specialist can guide you when choosing a particular shape diamond.
Take a stroll past the stores of Bond Street, Place Vendome or the Via Montanapoleone and you will see the many windows filled with shimmering diamond jewels, sparkling and enticing to the eye. With so many options on the Luxury High Street, why are discerning purchasers turning to bespoke “private jewellers” for their diamond jewellery? Put simply, a private jeweller can provide expertise and a truly personal service that one cannot find on the high street. When choosing a diamond or a piece of fine jewellery, there is a huge range of shapes, qualities, colors and certifications to choose from. Cost and discretion will also play a part, so a diamond expert can guide you through this maze of options.
British diamond specialist Henry Pruwer explains; ‘If your private jeweller is a member of one of the international Diamond Bourses, he or she must follow a Code of Conduct, acting responsibly towards his clients. It also means he has unrivalled access to major world diamond markets, so he can find the perfect diamond, whether in Dubai, Hong Kong, New York or Antwerp, he can get it for you.’
Some retailers also offer bespoke services but, at a certain level, diamonds will rise above any particular branding – it is the glow and the glory of the jewel – and this is where a bespoke specialist can excel. Additionally, you can enjoy owning a truly unique piece that no one else in the world will have – a limited edition of one.
Your private jeweller will take you through all the stages, from sketching designs to choosing the stones and the settings. This creative process often has a personal client involvement, so you can create a truly unique piece with perfectly matched diamonds and an individual bespoke setting.
Henry Pruwer gained his experience in Frankfurt and spent many years in Antwerp at the heart of the diamond industry. Furthermore, frequent trips to Africa made him conscious of the need to ensure all his diamonds come from ethical sources. Pruwer has built an international network for his diamonds and is now based at the London Diamond Bourse in Hatton Garden.
To consult with Henry Pruwer on bespoke jewellery options, please do not hesitate to contact your lifestyle manager today.