During World War II, the Japanese had overrun Burma and were advancing into India when British forces, ably assisted by Naga troops, finally forced them to retreat at Kohima. The site of one of the war’s bloodiest battles, Garrison Hill in April 1944, now has a War Cemetery with 2,337 graves and memorials to the soldiers who laid down their lives. It is a moving experience just walking there, reading the tombstones.
The battle of Kohima was fought between the 31st Japanese Division under General Sato and the British 2nd Division under the command of General Slim’s 14th Army. Approximately 13,000 Japanese soldiers battled against a 9,000 strong opposition; roughly 3,000 Japanese and 4,000 British casualties were counted at the end of it.
Many of these casualties were Nagas (mostly belonging to the Angami tribe) but there are no statistics for them. The only Naga grave at the cemetery is that of 21 year old Saliezhu Angami; the inscription on his grave reads, “The big-minded warring youngest son of mine shall arise and shine like a star.”
The youngest known casualty of the war, 16 year old Ghulam Muhammad of the 2nd Punjab Regiment, also lies buried here.
Also visit the War Museum in Kisama to learn more about the events. As also Kohima’s impressive Catholic Cathedral, which the families and friends of deceased Japanese soldiers partly funded when they learned that the congregation prays for the fallen of both sides.