Application of Computer in Apparel Manufacturing
|Expt. no||Experiment Name|
|01||Study on Lectra Modaris environment set up.|
|02||Study and practise on pattern design for a T-shirt by Lectra CAD system.|
|03||Study and practise on pattern grading for a T-shirt.|
|04||Study on marker making for a T-shirt by Lectra Diamino CAD system|
Now a days, pattern making is done by advanced software. Among them Lectra Modaris is the most used. In this experiment, we will learn how to make a t-shirt pattern, grade the pattern, create variant and export garment.
- To know about the Lectra Modaris Software
- To learn how to Set up the environment
- To learn how to creat size table
- To learn how to make the pattern
- To learn how to do grading for different sizes
- To learn how to create variants for the parts
Established in France in 1973, Lectra is a leading company in computer aided design (CAD) software for the textile industry. Launched in 1984, Modaris software provides onscreen management of pattern design and modification. Modaris is widely used in both the textile industry and by students in colleges of fashion.
Spec Sheet for T-Shirt Pattern Making
|Size S||Size M||Size L||Size XL||Size XXL|
|C- Collar Deep||7.5||8||8.5||9||9.5|
|E- Collar Width||16.5||17||17.5||18||18.5|
|G- Sleeve Length||19||20||21||22||23|
Grading values :
|Parameter||Size S||Size M||Size L||Size XL||Size XXL|
Key Measurement Points :
|Key Measurement Points||Measurements in cm|
|Arm Hole width||23|
|Back Neck Drop||2.5|
|Front Neck Drop||12|
Setting up the Environment :
- Creating a new folder named as the Buyer and save it in any drive
-Create two subfolder “alpha” & “TSCdesign (Buyer subfolder)”& a text file “size_table.EVA”
Open Lectra Modaris Software
- Set Proper Parameter
- Click parameter and click length unit & set as “cm”
- Create Model (Go to FILE, click ‘NEW’ (Give a name to the model like ‘TSCdesign), then press ENTER
- Set Access Path (All work done is saved here)
-Click ACCESS PATHS (A popup window will come)
-Click On the Blank Field and then browse for the buyer sub folder and Click Ok.
-Click this (!) icon and then click (!!) this icon, then click OK.
- Click DISPLAY, Click TITLE BLOCK & SIZES
- Create size table
-Open a “size_chart.EVA” in Notepad,
-Write alpha in the first line, press enter, write s, m, l, xl, xxl, xxxl vertically)
-Give * before the basic size (We used L as basic)
-Save the file .
- Connect size table
-Go to F7 > click IMP.EVT > click on the model
-From the new window, Open the Size_chart.EVA file
-Sizes in the size table will appear in the screen
Click FILE > SAVE ,then again
FILE > SAVE ( Make sure the file is saved in the right place )
Then, Creating the Pattern
- Click SHEET > NEW SHEET
- Click F2 > RECTANGLE
- Click and drag the mouse on the Blank Area > New pop up window will Open , Use the down arrow to navigate to the input box , input length (70) and width (26) of the T-shirt . Press ENTER, then click mouse Right button, then press HOME key
- Click F1> Click DEVELOPED, click the first point and then put value (SPACE BAR to change direction)
-Put -9 (half of neck width) and ENTER
- Click first point AGAIN, Put Value of Front neck drop 12 cm, Put Back neck drop say 2.5 cm 14. Click F3 > INSERT POINT to cross mark the three point.
- Click F1 > BEZIER
-Add the crossed points, (click first point, add required point, then click right button of mouse)
- From DISPLAY > click HANDLE
- Click F3 > RESHAPE (to refine curve), Reshape the two lines into Curves
- Click F1 > STRAIGHT, click point, put dx value of shoulder length say 14 cm at -20 angle.
- Click F1 > STRAIGHT & click on the Shoulder point.
-Put -22 value in dy. Press Enter
- Click on the new point and draw a straight line with dx value of +2 cm
- Click F3 > DELETION and Delete the 2 lines. Then F1 > Insert Point to mark the 2 points
- Click F1 > BEZIER to join Shoulder and Sleeve Point
- Click F3 > RESHAPE to reshape the line into Sleeve Opening.
- Click F4 > SEAM, mouse left button 1 click then right button 1 click on the front part.
- Now make the back part same way.
-Seam will be created, Press 8 to arrange all. Then FILE > SAVE
Creating the Sleeve
- Open New Sheet for sleeve
-Click F1 > NEW SHEET
- Click F4 > Current Sheet and Click on the blank new sheet.
– Click F2 > RECTANGLE
– In the New pop up window, put sleeve length (say 21) and width (22)
– Press enter, then mouse Right button click, then press HOME key
- Click F1 > DEVELOPED, click first point and then put value of sleeve opening say 15 cm and Armhole to 23 cm (Space bar to change direction) 29. Click on the Right Point and Put dy Value at 22.
- Click F1 > BEZIER, Connect the 3 Points
- Click F3 > RESHAPE, and reshape the armhole similar to the main body pattern
- Click F4 > SEAM, left mouse click, then right mouse click.
- Press 8 to arrange all.
– Click File > Save > Continue
Grading the Pattern
- Click F3 > Current Sheet > Click on Front Part
- Press F12, then F9 (Border will change to Orange)
- Press F6 > Control. Select each points and dx or dy values according to the Grading Values
- Click Report X (dx) or Report Y (dy), then click on the graded point, then left click on the parallel point.
- Repeat this on all points that needs to be graded.
- Click F5 > SYM2PTS. Click on the top and bottom point of front part and it will show the full front part.
- Then Select the sleeve and Grade it in the exact same way.
- Press 8.
– Click File > Save > Continue
- Click F8 > Variant > Name it ‘TSCdesign’ > Click ENTER 43. New Window will open. Drag the window to the left
- Click Choose Piece under F8 > Variant.
- Click Front, Back part and Sleeve
- Drag Back the variant window. Edit S, DH, DV as necessary
- Close the Window. Press 8
- Click File > Save > Continue
- Click File > Export Garment
- Close Modaris Window
Conclusion: By this process, we learn the basics of how to make a t-shirt pattern, grading the pattern, creating variant and exporting garment. This will surely help us in our future job life