For the past few months, the New-York Historical Society has displayed a marvelous collection of historical street style photography in the Bill Cunningham: Facades exhibit. From 1968 to 1976, the world-renowned photographer staged models in period costume in front of iconic New York streets and buildings, simultaneously invoking the vestiges of the past while documenting the growing interest in preservation in his own time.
Before this sartorial exhibition closes on June 15th, I wanted to explore other ways fashion has been displayed and shared throughout American history. While this blog post only allows for a few of the many examples, it shows how the accessibility to fashion trends and advances in technology go hand in hand.
Early in American history, new fashion designs were displayed in millinery shops (where hats, trimmings, and articles of clothing were sold) on small bisque or porcelain figures called fashion dolls. Often referred to as Pandora dolls, they were the precursors to both the fashion dolls that young children play with today (such as Barbie dolls) and the representation of clothing details in magazines. The dolls were meant to help customers imagine what a finished garment might look like, and also helped dressmakers advertise their talents. A local modiste would receive these small dolls from the fashion capitals of Europe, like the French court, during 1700’s and 1800’s when these dolls were most popular. Every detail on each figure was carefully crafted, from the coiffed hair to the dainty miniature shoes, so that the particular fashion trends the doll conveyed could be perfectly replicated all over the world.
Magazines have played a large role in making new fashions accessible to the general public, even as early as the 1600’s. In the 17th century, magazines and newspaper columns chronicled what the nobility or local gentry wore. These written descriptions usually were found in the midst of accounts of notable events, similar to gossip columns today. When printing detailed sketches and drawings became easier, these magazines began including clothing patterns and images. In the late 18th century, a British publication called the Lady’s Monthly Museum became very popular, not only for its fashion but also for its advice columns. In 1867 Harper’s Bazaar, one of the most well-known magazines, debuted its first edition. Vogue began in 1892, and Women’s Wear Daily followed in 1910.
While the current N-YHS exhibit focuses on Bill Cunningham’s Facades work, many people know Cunningham’s name just from the many photographs he takes for fashion magazines or The New York Times. Along with Scott Schuman, the creator of the wildly popular blog The Sartorialist, Cunningham reinvented the world of fashion journalism. Bloggers like Susie Bubble and Hanneli Mustaparta are now known for exactly that kind of journalism style. Street style photography litters the pages of magazines, and can turn everyday fashionistas into virtual celebrities. In addition to The Sartorialist, other popular style blogs that feature personal style photography are Sea of Shoes and Face Hunter.
Cunningham manages to merge the long-established interest in how one presents oneself to the world with the modern concept of blog-like street style photography. By representing the fashion and architectural history of New York with the digital technology of today, he incorporates the past into the present. How fashion is accessed constantly changes, but as Cunningham shows, our interest in it hasn’t faded in time.