MOUNT LAUREL — On Begging Day, children wore “scruffy clothes” and knocked on doors to collect apples and other seasonal fruits. Much like a Halloween tradition, the activity was once popular on Thanksgiving, according to food historian Judith Krall-Russo.
At the Mount Laurel Library, she told the story to a crowded conference room during a presentation about winter holidays. In talking turkey and other harvest season foods, Krall-Russo provided an informative look at a number of celebrations, including Thanksgiving, as attendees noshed on cookies, and sipped hot cocoa and apple cider.
Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday celebrated this year starting at sundown on Wednesday, is typically recognized with foods cooked in oil, such as latkes (potato pancakes), rugelach (filled pastries) and sufganiot (a doughnut).
Meanwhile, the Christian celebration of St. Andrew’s Day on Saturday traditionally features elements of Scottish culture. Krall-Russo, a certified tea specialist, said celebrants once dined on sheeps’ heads, but the modern holiday table offers beef, goose and Scottish whiskey.
Superstitions also come into play.
“On St. Andrew’s Day, you could dream about your future husband or wife,” said Krall-Russo. “A lot of people went to bed early.”
Oranges have a role in St. Nicholas Day, which honors the patron saint of children on Dec. 6. Krall-Russo said the citrus fruit represents bags of gold that, according to legend, were given by a poor man as dowries for his three daughters.
“You would always have three oranges on the table,” the food historian said.
Philadelphia resident Laura Hadley said oranges were traditionally placed at the top of the Christmas stockings in her family, and the hosiery was filled with nuts and hard candy. According to Krall-Russo, those gifts are traditionally given by St. Nick, commonly known as Santa Claus.
In general, winter holidays feature spices favored in cold weather, with short days, many celebrate light.
Santa Lucia, a Scandinavian holiday held Dec. 13, calls for the family’s eldest daughter to serve a morning meal of hot foods that include ginger snap cookies and rice pudding with cinnamon, while wearing a crown of lit candles.
On Dec. 21, which is shared by St. Thomas Day and the Winter Solstice, decorated apples are given as gifts. Bonfire celebrations typically feature a mixture of dried fruit, nuts and chickpeas, as well as wassail. A hot beverage made with apple cider and spices, wassail also is served for New Year celebrations.
For Christmas, mincemeat pie, fruitcake, dates and plum pudding are traditional favorites.
Krall-Russo said her family served vegetarian dishes that honored their Slovakian heritage.
Maple Shade resident Paulette Ritter grew up with a seafood feast on Christmas Eve, and has carried it through with her family.
Phyllis Cloyde of Mount Laurel said she traditionally ate turkey on Christmas, but changed her menu after discovering an English heritage. Her holiday meals includes roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
Many people also identify with certain foods for New Year’s Day.
“Ham is sign of good luck. Black-eyed peas means fortune and prosperity,” said Krall-Russo.
The program also addressed, among others, the ancient Roman holiday of Saturnalia (Dec. 17-25), Kwaanza, starting Dec. 26; and Candlemas Day (Feb. 2), the midpoint of winter, often viewed as the last official holiday of the season.
“You can actually keep your decorations up until Feb. 2,” Krall-Russo said.
It’s no coincidence that there are many holidays in the winter months. According to Krall-Russo, throughout history, people stopped hunting and gathering after the autumn harvest.
Kristen Coppock: 609-871-8073; email email@example.com; Twitter @kcoppockbct