In many taquerias throughout Chicago, you'll find circulation tanks containing a rainbow of Mexican beverages. Horchata, a sweet, creamy rice drink, and agua de jamaica, a tart and tangy cooler made from hibiscus flowers, are ubiquitous. You'll also see agua de tamarindo (tamarind) or limonada (limeade).
But in a select few taquerias an underground home-brew sits hidden away in the backs of refrigerators or in unmarked jars, usually only known and enjoyed in the daytime by Mexicans with fond memories from back home.
This hard-to-find drink called tepache — pronounced "tay-PAH-chay" — is a lightly fermented cider typically made from pineapple and seasoned with spices such as allspice, cinnamon and clove. An unrefined brown sugar called piloncillo is added for sweetness and depth. It is not uncommon for oranges, apples, tamarind or other fruits to find their way into the mix.
Traditional versions found in Mexico usually demand that it be made in a seasoned wooden barrel called a tepachera, but because of the lower cost and ease, most tepache made in Chicago is fermented in glass or plastic jars. After one to five days of fermentation, tepache takes on a slightly acidic effervescence and a surprisingly pleasant funk, characteristics also found in other styles of fruit ciders. If tepache is left to ferment for much longer, a sharp vinegar flavor starts to creep in. Home-brewers often reinforce their own renditions with beer.
In Margarita Dalton's "Recipe of the Coast of Oaxaca," she cites a turbocharged tepache recipe from the southern Mexican state calling for 15 sheets of tobacco.
The word "tepache" appears to be related to a verb from the Nahuatl language meaning "to bruise or pound something," said Amy Dahlstrom, professor of linguistics at the University of Chicago. The drink was enjoyed by the native culture hundreds of years before the European conquest in the early 1500s.
However, culinary historians debate the prevalence within those indigenous cultures before the arrival of these Spanish explorers. One logical argument suggests that the conquistadors longed for hard apple ciders, or sidra, commonly enjoyed in the Old World, and the succulent pineapples found in Mexican tropical areas such as Veracruz, Oaxaca and Tabasco made for a satisfying replacement in their recipe.
Many Mexican-Americans throughout Chicago make homemade tepache throughout summer, sometimes year-round, but finding a restaurant or street vendor that sells it isn't always easy. I'm aware of only a handful of businesses that routinely carry it, although more are certainly to be found on street carts along 26th Street and at the Maxwell Street Market.
Given all the variables, the same recipe can differ considerably in flavor from day to day and season to season for any given maker.
Some examples of tepache in Chicago worth seeking out:
Taqueria La Chaparrita #1: This tepache is one I came across where a tepachera is used. Because the Little Village taqueria uses oranges and tamarind in the mix, this version can be fruitier and tends to have less of the traditional acidity or vinegar element that some might find challenging. While there, don't miss La Chaparrita's D.F.-style tacos made in a large, mounded cooking vessel called a charola. Many Chicago foodies consider these tacos the best in town. Count me among them. 2500 S. Whipple St.
Yvolina's Tamales: Marcelina Hernadez makes her tepache bone-dry with pleasant hints of mustiness. She'll add refined sugar or a can of soda per your request. The tamales — vegetarian (try the spinach with mushrooms or eggplant) or meaty (pork or chicken with green sauce tamales are recommended) — are worth seeking out. 18th and Halsted streets (Pilsen Community Market, Sundays only from 9 a.m.-2 p.m.)
Birrieria La Barca Jalisco: La Barca is so proud of its tepache, there's an electric "tepache" sign in the window. Besides making delicious, hard-to-find birria tatemada (roasted goat), La Barca has tepache at its finest, with sweetness, acidity and funk. 4304 W. 26th St.
Ice³: The folks behind the new food truck, Ice-Cubed creates a traditional version using orange peel and Modelo beer, then freezing the beverage into gourmet ice pops, which makes for an especially refreshing treat. Truck location on Twitter @ice3truck.
Scofflaw: Tepache has even crossed over into cocktails. Scofflaw, a newcomer in Chicago's craft bar world, uses tepache from La Chaparrita to anchor its Veranda Way cocktail, a mix of Citadelle gin, Aperol, fresh lime juice and cinnamon ice. Danny Shapiro, head barman and co-owner, thinks of tepache as the "funky, rustic cousin of cider, with a distinct tropicality and unique depth." 3201 W. Armitage Ave.
The word "tepache" appears to be related to a verb from the Nahuatl language meaning "to bruise or pound something."