Did you know that trench coats became popular when Thomas Burberry wanted a raincoat that looked professional and did its job (keeping the rain out)?
He invented the long coat design, with epaulets, in a new fabric he invented called 'gaberdine". (Actually, there is some dispute whether the design of the modern trench coat was originated by Burberry or Aquascutum, another company that also furnished trench coats during WWI. But there is no doubt, that Burberry's fabric made the trench coat popular and utilitarian.)
In 1879, gaberdine was a new tight-weave, water resistant fabric that was perfect form Burberry's intent. Burberry used this fabric in his new long rain coat. Soon after, the British Army made an order and sent its army men off to war wearing them. Indeed the trench coat gets its name from trench warfare of the First World War.
Many of the design features of the trench were to serve the military. The storm flap (or gun flap) provide an extra barrier again rain getting in. After all, if you are out in the driving rain for an extended period, you need a barrier to keep rain from getting in through zippers and buttonholes. There is some suggestion that it also helped to keep the coat from showing early wear due tot he firing of the weapon (hence, the name "gun flap"). Another feature is the cape. It acts as a second layer around the shoulders where water falls and sits. Remember, the original trench coats weren't completely waterproof, they were simply made of the tight-weave gabardine, so it would be more resistant to water but the water would eventually soak through.
After the war, the British army gave its surplus coats to civilians in need and a trend was born. Soon detectives and gangsters were wearing them on movie screens and they became a symbol of masculinity. Indeed, Humphrey Bogart's character, Sam Spade in Casablanca, wore a trench that appealed to many. Trench coats became an essential part of men's wardrobes.
Audrey Hepburn's character, Holly Golightly, wore a trench in Breakfast at Tiffany's and suddenly, trenches were accessible to women.
Components of Traditional Trench Coats:
1. Collar and lapel
2. Button closure
3. Raglan Sleeves - a standard trench coat has raglan sleeves. Many today do not.
4. Storm or Gun Flap - This is the extra piece of fabric on the right shoulder which protects the jacket from rain - or the kickback of a military rifle.
5. Belt - it must have a belt to be a trench coat
6. Sleeve Tab (called loop in the pic below): should be closed with a button
Trench Coats in Movies:
Bogart, Davis, Hepburn, Ford, Reeves and Kate Middleton all in trenches...