Aspects of the production of early Anglo-Saxon cloisonne garnet jewellery.
The aim of this study was to examine aspects of the manufacture of early Anglo-
Saxon cloisonn6 garnetjewellery and, wherever possible, to test current theories relating to
the different techniques involved. The tests were based on information taken from the
following sources: early technical literature dating from the flirst to the twelfth centuries
A. D.; more recent literature presenting analyses of materials and methods of construction; a
visual, non-destructive examination of surviving examples of Anglo-Saxon jewellery, in
particular the Kentish disc brooches from the late sixth and early seventh centuries.
The thesisi s presentedin two parts.T he first chaptero f part one lists and discusses
the early technical literature in which both materials and methods of production are
described. The second chapter examines archaeological evidence of tools relating to the
period. Part two of the thesis takes each process in turn and discusses the most relevant
literature, ancient and modem, including published analyses of materials and current
theories as to production techniques. Each chapter contains descriptions of the tests
undertaken and the conclusions reached.
As a result of the tests, a clearer understanding of the whole process of making a
piece of jewellery is possible, for example the way in which one technique relates to
another and the way the techniques appear to have influenced the design of the jewellery.
The processesfo r which examination and testing producedt he most conclusive evidence
were casting, niello, beaded wire and soldering. The making and shaping of gamet plates
was less conclusive, but still produced significant evidence, particularly with regard to the
type of garnet from which they might have been made.
The question of the possible number and location of workshops was also
considered and it is suggested here that while it is possible to group some work on the
basis of stylistic features and technique, it is not possible to determine how many
workshops were involved. The techniques could have been practised anywhere, and since
no site in England could have provided all the necessary materials, it is not possible to
speculate as to the location of workshops using techniques or materials as indicators.