The first apple on the Central Coast is typically harvested in late summer, when the first of the Gravensteins are ready. As the weeks go by, and summer begins to hint at fall, additional varieties begin to appear until they reach a peak around the middle of October. While favorite varieties obviously differ, one thing is certain: Perhaps no other tree fruit offers such a diversity of flavor and texture as does an apple. They run the flavor range, from sharp and bitter to an almost candy-like sweetness.
Apples have been grown for thousands of years in Asia and Europe, originating in the mountains of Central Asia, but they are now cultivated on every continent with the exception of Antarctica to the tune of more than 70 million tons annually worldwide. But while apple cultivars date back centuries, many popular modern varieties are fairly recent creations.
The apple is thought to be the earliest cultivated tree fruit and there are currently an estimated 7,500 known varieties. Many regions have apples that were either developed or discovered within them. One example here on the Central Coast is the Hauer Pippin, which was found growing in an Aptos orchard in the 1890s. Known as the "Christmas Apple," since it typically comes off of the tree after Thanksgiving, it's recently been added to the Slow Food Ark of Taste, which is dedicated to preserving regional foods.
The Ark of Taste folks have a friend in Everett Family Farm in Soquel.
Some of the trees cared for by the Everett family are more than 80 years old, with some varieties that are considerably older than that. The farm also includes persimmons, more than 25 different row crops, goats and a sizeable flock of free-range chickens, which helps keep the soil fertile.
The Everetts purchased the 45-acre spread on Old San Jose Road from the Leoprini family, which tended the land for three generations. Many of those original trees, which include Gravensteins and Pippens, two of the more common varieties grown on the Central Coast, are still there.
Rich Everett credits his wife Laura's passion for heirloom apples as a reason the orchard was expanded to include less common cultivars such as Belle de Boskoop, Stayman's Winesap, Roxbury Russet, Kingston Black, Porter Perfection and Yarlington Mills. According to Everett, the latter three are solely used for cider and juice, which is a fall tradition at the Everett farmstand.
"We love experimenting and growing, so it's been with Laura's direction that we've gotten heavily into the heirloom varieties, which helps ... in making unique cider blends," he notes.
The farmstand is a unique feature at Everett Family Farm. The idea of having a farmstand with an honor system set up for payment is something that "brings many of our customers back to an era gone past, one they remember fondly," says Rich Everett. "In the old days, most farmers sold right off the farm and due to the plain old fact that farming is labor-intensive and hard work, no one would have the time to stand around and sell the fruit, produce and other things, they would be in the field working. Well ... not much has changed today!"
The farm has 17 varieties of apple, 14 or which are heirloom.
Many tart varieties are traditionally preferred for baking, but the complexity of flavor offered by some of the older apples, such as the Newtown Pippin, which dates to the 18th century, and Belle de Boskoop, traced to Holland in the 1850s, make these standout in a pie. When it comes to juicing or making cider, it's a similar story. Well-balanced varieties, including Gravenstein, Gala and Jonagold, or a well-thought-out combination of tart and sweet apples are commonly used.
Just as many antique apple varieties give birth to newer apple varieties, Rich and Laura Everett believe that organic farmers should work to encourage more organic farmers. They put this belief into action through a unique partnership with the UC Santa Cruz Farm and Garden program. According to Rich Everett, it's one of the primary goals of the farm.
"The reason to build our brand has always been to make it easier for the next young farmers to come aboard and be able to pursue their dreams without all of the other obstacles in the way," he said.
Apples, interestingly, are one of the modern world's more readily available fruits, while at the same time they have a rich and storied heritage. Discovering new varieties is akin to a treasure hunt, each and every one with it's own story and uniqueness. October is a great time to bask in this abundance, whether it's at a farmers market, your local grocer or up at the Everett Family Farm's honor-system farmstand on Old San Jose Road.
Matt Landi is produce director for New Leaf Community Markets. Contact him at firstname.lastname@example.org. His County Bounty column runs once a month.
Apple Pie with Oatmeal Cookie Crust
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup unbleached white flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup finely minced nuts (optional)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted (or 1/2 cup Earth Balance spread for non-dairy)
6 cups peeled, sliced tart apple (such as Belle de Boskoop or Newtown Pippen)
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoons allspice or ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind
3 tablespoons unbleached white flour
1/4 cup honey or brown sugar
1/4 cup sour cream (optional)
A handful of chopped nuts (optional)
1. Combine all crust ingredients in a medium-size bowl and mix well.
2. Press firmly and evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9- or 10-inch pie pan. Reserve a handful of crust mix for the topping.
1. Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Place the sliced apples in a large bowl. Drizzle with lemon juice, and sprinkle with spices; toss until well-coated. Add the lemon rind, sprinkle in the flour, and mix again. Gradually add sugar or honey and (optional sour cream) as you mix. Don't worry if the apple slices break a little while being mixed and tossed.
3. Distribute the filling into the unbaked crust. Sprinkle the handful of reserved crust mix over the top, with or without the optional extra handful of nuts, and pat neatly into place.
4. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the apples are soft and the crust is nicely browned on the edges. (Note: if the top appears to be browning too quickly during baking, cover loosely with foil). Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.
-- Recipe from 'Enchanted Broccoli Forest,' by Mollie Katzen
Apple and Rosemary Butter
Yields: Approximately six half-pint jars
5 pounds of green apples such as Pippin or Granny Smith; cored, peeled and roughly chopped
3/4 cup lemon juice
1 cup water
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
Freshly ground nutmeg to taste
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 cups organic sugar
1. Combine apples, lemon juice, optional molasses, and water to a medium pot and cook over medium high heat until the apples have softened and started to break down. It'll start to look like chunky applesauce.
2. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Next sprinkle in the cinnamon, grate the nutmeg over the apples (I usually make a few passes over the microplane), and add the rosemary to the pot. Let the rosemary steep for about 5 to 10 minutes, taste, and then discard or let steep longer.
3. Cook until the apple have thickened slightly. Mash or blend until smooth with an immersion blend.
4. Ladle into hot sterilized jars, wipe rims if needed, and seal with lids. Process for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.
-- Recipe from Kristen Cederquist, Serendipity Saucy Spreads, serendipityspreads.com
If You Go
Everett Family Farm farmstand
What: A 45-acre farm that includes apples and persimmons, more than 25 different row crops, goats and a sizeable flock of free-range chickens. Farmstand offers in-season organic vegetables and fruits, fresh pastured eggs, and apple juice in the fall. Stand is operated on the honor system.
Where: 2111 Old San Jose Road, Soquel
Hours: Summer hours, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, are in effect until the first big rain of the fall, when the farmstand switches to winter hours, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.