What is a chemical peel?
A chemical peel causes the peeling of the upper layers of the skin, as a result of the action of certain chemical substances.
Why a peeling?
The aim of peeling is to initiate cell regeneration and renew the skin. Replacing old skin cells with new ones improves the general appearance of the skin, but can also lead smaller scars, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation to disappear.
And with a peel this is even possible economically, as its price is typically lower than those of alternative treatment options.
Different peels for different depths
Peelings can have different depths of effect on the skin, one speaks of superficial, medium and deep peels.
While superficial peelings are still very often performed in dermatological practices and clinics, deep peelings are hardly performed today because alternative methods such as laser skin resurfacing or microneedling have proven to be just as effective but have fewer risks, especially with regard to infections and scarring.
Superficial chemical peels often only shave off the already dead cell layers of the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer of the epidermis.
If the peeling goes a little deeper, then the entire epidermis is regularly peeled off up to the so-called stratum basale, the separating layer between epidermis and dermis.
The medium-deep peeling even goes beyond this and destroys not only the epidermis but also the upper layers of the dermis (the so-called stratum papillare).
For the surface: fruit acid peels
Fruit acids are often used for superficial peels.
They lead to a fine peeling of the upper skin layers.
This makes the skin noticeably smoother, purer and finer. It appears fresher, younger and more even.
Chemically speaking, fruit acids are so-called hydroxy acids. Hydroxy acids are the acidic component of many fruits, hence their nickname fruit acids.
Glycolic acid peeling
A fruit acid frequently used in chemical peelings is glycolic acid, which is extracted from sugar cane.
With up to 70% glycolic acid solution a superficial to medium deep peeling can be performed very effectively.
As the superficial glycolic acid peeling is easy and quick to perform and leaves only slight redness, it has also become known as a lunchtime peel. Patients can have it done during their lunch break and then return to their workplace.
Clinically proven effectiveness
At first glance, this may not sound very effective.
But the clinical effectiveness of glycolic acid peeling has been well documented in numerous studies.
In fact, they confirm quite clearly that even a superficial glycolic acid peeling leads to increased collagen synthesis.
Other fruit acids used in dermatological cosmetics are lactic acid, tartaric acid and citric acid.
Lactic acid is often used as an ingredient for moisturizing creams and according to recent studies it also proves to be very effective for pigmentation disorders.
Chemical Peel – When?
Superficial fruit acid peelings are performed in a number of cosmetical applications.
They are very suitable for the treatment of impure skin, large pores, acne and acne-like diseases, especially those where closed and/or open comedones (“blackheads”) predominate, for example acne comedonica or acne cosmetica.
A fruit acid peeling is less suitable for highly inflammatory forms of acne.
In case of superficial scars a fruit acid peeling can achieve cosmetic improvements, but not in case of deeper scars.
In this case we use other methods, such as microneedling or injection with hyaluronic acid.
The costs of the fruit acid peeling are considerably exceeded when reverting to these kind of means. But the effectiveness of the alternative measures more than makes up for the added costs.
We also like to use a fruit acid peeling for the treatment of epidermal hyperpigmentation, which only affects the epidermis.
A fruit acid peeling is not suitable for deeper, dermal pigmentation disorders. The differentiation between the two forms usually requires a more detailed examination by an experienced doctor.
How do I prepare my skin for a fruit acid peeling?
To prepare the skin, 2-3 weeks before the actual peeling treatment, a cream with low concentrated glycolic acid is applied to the areas to be treated.
This serves to reduce the pH value of the skin surface and sensitise the uppermost skin layers.
The peeling substance applied during the actual treatment can thus penetrate the skin better and more evenly.
During the preparation other irritations of the skin in the area to be treated should be avoided, especially by using depilatory creams or cleansing agents with scrub effect.
A good preparation of the skin is a prerequisite for a good smoothing effect of the peeling.
What happens during treatment?
On the day of the treatment you should refrain from using alcoholic facial tonics and make-up. Men should no longer shave or use aftershave.
Before the peeling the skin is thoroughly cleansed and degreased in my practice. This already loosens the so-called skin barrier a little, so that the subsequent peeling can penetrate the skin better.
Then the peeling is applied with a brush. The first treatment is usually still carried out with a rather weakly concentrated acid solution, for example 20-35% for glycolic acid.
The reaction time is about 2 minutes. If unpleasant side effects such as burning or stinging occur, the application time is shortened.
To finish the peeling, a neutralizing solution is applied, which interrupts the effect of the fruit acid. The treated area is then cooled with moist compresses, which patients usually find very pleasant.
If desired, a special detox face mask can be applied after the peeling which additionally calms the skin and prevents inflammations.
Make-up, soaps and facial tonics containing alcohol should be avoided in the first 3-5 days after the treatment.
As the skin is particularly sensitive to light after a fruit acid peeling, adequate UV protection (SPF 30+) should be provided and direct sunlight should be avoided at all costs. It is best to avoid direct sunlight for 3-4 weeks after the treatment.
Frequent peels for best results
A superficial fruit acid peeling must be repeated several times to achieve attractive results. Usually 4-8 sessions at intervals of 2-4 weeks are necessary.
In order to correctly estimate the costs of your peeling treatment, you should bear this in mind. The duration of the treatment and the concentration of the fruit acid are increasingly increased.
When not to perform a chemical peel?
Infections and intolerances
A fruit acid peeling must not be performed during acute skin infections, such as herpes simplex.
Furthermore, the known intolerance of one of the ingredients of the peeling substance is an absolute contraindication.
The same applies to the presence of atopic dermatitis or other eczema in the area to be treated.
Wound healing disorders
A fruit acid peeling should also be avoided in the case of known wound healing disorders such as a tendency to keloids and hypertrophic scars.
Dermabrasion, radiotherapy, surgery and acne therapy with isotretinoin should have been performed at least 3 months ago.
Increased photosensitivity, pregnancy
For patients with increased photosensitivity, it is recommended to refrain from peeling during the summer months or before travelling to southern countries.
And finally, fruit acid peeling should also not be carried out during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Costs of a Chemical peel
In terms of costs, a chemical peel is a comparatively inexpensive treatment, at the same time highly effective and producing good results.
At LIPS and SKIN in Munich the treatment with fruit acid peeling starts at 119,- Euro. This price is only an approximate value and can be considerably higher depending on the individual needs of patients.
Please bear in mind that several sessions are usually necessary for optimal results, if you judge a fruit acid peeling by its cost.
As a rule, a treatment programme with 3-4 sessions of fruit acid peeling will cost a total of approx. 500-700 Euros.