I n this episode of Around the World in 80 Dishes, Chef Charles M. Rascoll of The Culinary Institute of America demonstrates a recipe for ful medames (stewed fava beans). This humble peasant food, which may date back to the time of the pharaohs, is eaten in many countries across the Arab world, but it originated in Egypt and is considered that country's national dish. Egyptians of all stripes start their day with a filling bowlful, and in Cairo and other cities, office workers and students buy ful for lunch from street vendors, who serve it in earthenware bowls or stuffed into pocket bread. Ful medames is also served in restaurants as a snack or meze.
According to The Oxford Companion to Food, medames may come from an Egyptian word for "ashes," which refers to the fact that the dish was originally cooked in a special pot known as a damassa that was buried overnight in the ashes of a fire. Long cooking is still the normmost recipes call for simmering the beans over very low heat for many hours. (The modern-day damassa that most Egyptians use at home has a special heating element to maintain the low heat, but a regular slow cookeror a carefully watched pot on the stovewill work just as well.) As they cook, the beans gradually soften and break down into a chunky, flavorful stew, which is then finished with a dressing of olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, red pepper flakes, and cumin. Ful can also be topped with hard-boiled eggs, tahini, tomato sauce, or even cream saucediffering versions abound. The rustic, pita-like Egyptian bread called eish baladi is the traditional accompaniment.
Regardless of the variation in toppings, the one essential ingredient in ful medames is the small, brown Egyptian fava bean known as ful hamam. These are smaller than the large fava beans commonly known in the United States. They're typically used dried and unpeeled (the long cooking time breaks down the skins) and are available from Kalustyans.com or Amazon.com. In a pinch, canned brown favas can be substitutedthey only need to be simmered for 15 minutes.Text by Sarah Kagan, illustrations by Matthew Brennan, photo by CIA/Keith Ferris