How to Build a Cucumber Frame
Almost everyone loves the crunch of a crisp cucumber, but not everyone has the space to grow these cool summer favorites. A sturdy, reuseable cucumber frame is space-saving, inexpensive and a snap to make even for novice builders, and it folds away at season's end. The frame supports cucumbers on a slightly inclined, rather that completely vertical plane -- a method that works best for young plants as they begin to put out tendrils.
Measure and mark one 10-foot-long two-by-four at 72 inches using a carpenter's square to ensure that the mark is straight and perpendicular to the length of the board. Repeat with the other three boards.
Cut all four of the 10-foot boards along those lines to get four pieces 72 inches long and four pieces 48 inches long.
Drill three 7/64-inch pilot holes along a line drawn 3/4 inch from the edge on each end -- across the wide face of the board -- on each of the four 48-inch-long pieces. Space the holes by centering one on the board and then drilling the other two holes 1 1/4 inches on either side of the center hole.
Lay two of the 72-inch-long pieces parallel and 4 feet apart on a level floor with the narrow edges facing up, and place one 48-inch-long piece -- also narrow edge up -- at each end. Align all the corners so that the face-ends of the shorter boards are flush with the ends of the longer boards.
Attach the short pieces to the longer pieces with 2 1/2-inch wood screws through the previously drilled pilot holes, keeping the edges square.
Repeat the last two steps with the remaining four boards. When done, you should have two rectangular wooden frames, each with an outside measurement of 48 inches by 75 inches.
Use wire cutters to cut two sections of the 4-foot-wide welded wire to 75 inches long.
Lay the wooden frames flat and place one section of welded wire over each, orienting it so that it fits the frame exactly. Hammer in poultry net staples over every other wire to hold it in place around the frame.
Turn one frame with the wire facing down against the floor, then place the other frame -- wire facing up -- on top. Line up all the corners and sides.
Measure 1 foot in from each corner along one 48-inch side and fasten a large door hinge across both frame sections at those two points. Make sure both hinges orient the same way and that they allow the frames to freely spread apart at the opposite end.
Paint the frame with nontoxic exterior enamel to prevent rot and make it last longer.
- If the bottom wants to splay too far apart when positioned in the garden, pound a stake into the ground in front of each bottom edge to secure the frame in place. As an alternative, attach a small length of chain or rope from one side of the frame to the other with nails or closed-eye bolts at a point about halfway up each long side to hold it in place when opened. Store it flat when the growing season ends.