Figure 5-5.Single-layer application of drywall.
ceilings are 8 feet 1 inch high or less, run wall sheets
horizontally. Where they are higher, run wall sheets
vertically, as shown in figure 5-5.
The sides of drywall taper, but the ends dont, so
there are some layout constraints. End joints must be
staggered where they occur. Such joints are difficult to
feather out correctly. Where drywall is hung vertically,
avoid side joints within 6 inches of the outside edges of
doors or windows. In the case of windows, the bevel on
the side of the drywall interferes with the finish trim,
and the bevel may be visible. To avoid this difficulty, lay
out vertical joints so they meet over a cripple (shortened)
stud toward the middle of a door or window opening.
When installing drywall horizontally and an
impact-resistant joint is required, you should use nailing
blocks (fig. 5-5).
There are several things you can do to make
working with drywall easier.
First, dont order drywall too far in advance.
Drywall must be stored flat to prevent damage to the
edges, and it takes up a lot of space.
Second, to cut drywall (fig. 5-6), you only need to
cut through the fine-paper surface (view A). Then, grasp
the smaller section and snap it sharply (view B). The
gypsum core breaks along the scored line. Cut through
the paper on the back (view C).
Third, when cutting a piece to length, never cut too
closely. One-half-inch gaps are acceptable at the top and
the bottom of a wall because molding covers these gaps.
If you cut too closely, you may have difficulty getting
the piece into place. Also, where walls arent square, you
may have to trim anyway.
Fourth, snap chalk lines on the drywall to indicate
joists or stud centers underneath attachment is much
quicker. Remember: Drywall edges must be aligned
over stud, joist, or rafter centers.
Fifth, when cutting out holes for outlet boxes,
fixtures, and so on, measure from the nearest fixed
point(s); for example, from the floor or edge of the next
piece of drywall. Take two measurements from each