Sashiko 刺し子 is a Japanese style of needlework. Literally meaning “little stabs,” sashiko was originally used to strengthen and reinforce fabric through a series of running stitches.
Sashiko has evolved into a more decorative form and today is used to create patterns on table linens and tenugui, cloth bags, and clothing such as kimono. Sashiko is best-known for its striking style of natural-color yarn on indigo fabric, though modern patterns are stitched in any color, pattern, or on any fabric.
How to Sashiko
- chalk pencil or transfer paper & tracing tools
- sashiko needle
- sashiko thread or embroidery floss
- solid cotton fabric for stitching
Begin by drawing your design onto fabric or transfer a pattern using chalk paper and a tracing tool.
For those using chalk or carbon paper, begin by securing your fabric to a tabletop with washi tape or weights. Place the chalk paper on top of the fabric, chalk-side down. Place the pattern on top of the chalk paper. If you need to extend your pattern, make additional copies and tape them together. Once you are satisfied with your arrangement, tape or weight the pattern so it does not move while tracing.
With a tracing tool or pointy object, trace over all of the pattern lines. If desired, you can place a sheet of clear plastic on top of your pattern to help ease the tool along the lines, but it isn’t necessary.
When all of the pattern lines have been transferred, you are ready to stitch.
The pattern has been marked onto the “right” side of your fabric, so you will stitch right over the top of the chalk lines. Pull your needle through the fabric at the start of your first marked line and allow the knot to rest neatly on the back, or “wrong” side.
Leave 1/8” (3 mm) of yarn between the knot and your first stitch—this allows for some “give” when stitching and will help prevent your fabric from puckering.
Work your needle from right to left (or left to right if you’re left- handed) along the marked line, making consistent 1/8” to 1/4” (3-5 mm) stitches. Work several stitches onto your needle, then pull your yarn through the fabric. Pull the yarn taught but not tight. Try not to let your fabric pucker. Your stitches should look similar to a running stitch, although slightly longer than the spaces between them. The stitch-to-space ratio for sashiko is 3:2, but no one is counting, just do your best!
If you notice your fabric is puckering, then your stitches are too tight. To fix this pinch the fabric between your thumb and index finger and run them along your line of stitches to smooth the fabric. Try holding the knotted end steady with one hand while you smooth with the other.
Continue stitching the length of your marked line, smoothing as necessary. When you reach the end of a line, make a small knot on the backside of your fabric and trim any excess yarn. Remember, the chalk-marked side of your fabric is the “right” side, and should be facing you.
Leave a little extra yarn before you tie off your row of stitches with a knot. This allows for some “give” in the case that your fabric shrinks a bit during washing, or you discover later that some of your stitches in that row were too tight.
Try to keep your corner stitches close together.
At points of intersection on your pattern, space your stitches equally. Maintain symmetry in your pattern and avoid crossing stitches or leaving large gaps. Try not to stitch through the middle of the intersection.
If a pattern has you jumping from the end of one line to the beginning of another, carry your yarn on the backside of your fabric. Leave a little extra yarn loose, similar to when turning corners. Donʼt worry, your stitches wonʼt come out and in the end this will help prevent your fabric from–you guessed it — puckering.
Work the lines that cross the center of your pattern first, going in one direction and then the reverse. This will help to keep your fabric from stretching. If you finish a row and arenʼt happy with the result, donʼt worry! Snip the knot and pull your yarn out. Re-knot and try again.
Interested in trying sashiko? Check out my Etsy shop for some DIY kits and downloadable PDF patterns. Happy stitching!