Clonmacnoise, County Offaly
Fee-Paying Tourist Attraction in Ireland #20
The ancient Monastery at Clonmacnoise is located in County Offaly in the very heart of Ireland, just south of Athlone.
The Monastery was founded in the year 546 by Saint Ciarán, who was one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland and was located on the shores of the mighty river Shannon. It was thus perfectly situated on the main crossroads of medieval Ireland. Crafts-workers, pilgrims, scholars and traders all gravitated to the settlement that was eventually to grow into one of the most important destinations in the country.
As well as being a place of scholarly and religious learning Clonmacnoise later became associated with the Kings of Connaught and the Kings of Meath. The story of how the young Ciarán met Diarmait Uí Cerbaill who helped him build the first Church at Clonmacnoise and who would later become the first Christian King of Ireland, is the stuff of legend. Ciarán died shortly after the Church was built, at just 33 years of age. His legacy remains.
The heyday for Clonmacnoise was from the eight to the thirteenth centuries. As a seat of learning and religion it was also home to a great deal of wealth that was plundered regularly by the Vikings and later by the native Irish tribes and the Normans. Estimates of the population of Clonmacoise put the figure at 2000 people, a sizeable settlment in the eleventh century. The skill of the craftsmen working at Clonmacnoise was unsurpassed in Ireland with perhaps the pinnacle of their achievements being the Clonmacnoise Crozier and the famous High Crosses.
From the twelfth century onwards the influence of Clonmacnoise began to decline. The main reason was the growth of nearby Athlone, also located on the river Shannon, but much better protected with its impressive Castle. As the population of Clonmacnoise dwindled the site began to fall into disrepair leaving its incredible legacy of stonework and medieval architecture to brave the elements for centuries.
Clonmacnoise is located just a short boat-trip or bus-ride from Athlone, Tullamore or Birr, the main towns in the region. A modern interpretive centre displays the huge and magnificent stone crosses of Clonmacnoise, that were moved indoors for protection quite recently. A video presentation runs regularly to set the site in its historical context and afterwards the ruins and buildings are freely accessible. If you cannot take a good photo here then never touch a camera again!
A small cafe and an external gift shop are also available.
The ruins at Clonmacnoise exist among the fields and floodplain that border the river Shannon. It is easy to see how the site was abandoned and left to the overgrowth of plants and trees for centuries. For modern visitors this turned out to be a great advantage. The Book of Kells that is housed in Trinity College in Dublin regularly tops the list of most frequently visited tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the heart of Dublin city it is very easy to access the site, view the books and the Library and then make your way to the next attraction without too much effort.
By contrast Clonmacnoise does take a little effort to view. Offaly is off the beaten track from a tourist perspective. Nearby Birr and Athlone Castles and the boating on the Shannon are among the most popular reasons for visitors to arrive in Offaly. But for those who make the effort there is certain reward. The Book of Kells was created about the year 800 AD, approximately the same time as the famous High Crosses of Clonamcnoise. But these are artifacts that you can actually touch, actually feel the texture, actually place your hand where our ancient ancestors toiled and carved their utterly incredbile designs. Walking out into the Monastery ground and graveyard it is easy to imagine the High Kings of Ireland berthing at the nearby river, arriving to pay homage at one of the most sacred sites in all of Ireland. You are just not going to get the same feeling elbowing your way through the crowds at Trinity College to catch a glimpse of a decorated page protected under glass and dim lighting.
If it is your intention to spin around the main tourist attractions in Ireland, perhaps you are on a tight schedule, then Clonmacnoise may not be on your radar. That is fine - it does take a wee bit of effort to get there. But if you do visit you may be surprised by the modest entrance fee to Clonmacnoise - almost free - the cost of a couple of shots of coffee. Depending on your expectations, your outlook and the kind of person that you are, it may well be the best few Euro you will spend during your visit to Ireland. And possibly the highlight of your trip.
Find out more here: http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/clonmacnoise/
Video about Clonmacnoise, County Offaly
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