This post is a continuation of Tomato Troubles which can be read here.
To avoid this: Try to maintain healthy foliage in order to reduce exposure to the sun. This can be difficult if you are dealing with spider mites (see below) in which case you might consider rigging up some sort of artificial shading.
To avoid cracking: Harvest the fruit while it is still firm.
Fruit that is allowed to fully ripen on the vine softens and cracks, especially after a rain.
Mulching and regular watering may help some; but if you are having a dry summer and experience a needed rain, the fruit may still crack anyway.
Also consider planting a “crack resistant” variety. Some varieties tend to crack more often than others. Nearly all of my Cherokee Purples have cracked to some degree, while my Romas have not shown any signs at all.
If you suspect that you have spider mites but see no clear evidence, hold a piece of white paper under your plant.
Shake the plant and watch the paper for tiny black spots that will start to move. These are spider mites.
More will be devoted to these pests in a future pest series post but in a nutshell: spider mites feed on the leaves of the tomato plant causing them to brown and wither.
To avoid spider mites: If anyone knows of a way to fully avoid them please let me know. I’ve never been able to avoid them, but I have been able to hold them off until the severe heat of mid summer sets in.
If you spray, begin a two-week spray schedule in mid-June. I like to use Pyola, an organic pyrethrin spray. (You can read more about pest management here.) If you choose not to spray, you can gently hose down your plants in an effort to dislodge the mites.
If left unchecked, spider mites will eventually kill the plant. In this case, you might consider planting a fall tomato crop. Read more about fall gardening here.
Note: many people plant marigolds with their tomatoes in an effort to avoid nematodes. However, marigolds can sometimes attract spider mites. Just a little something to keep in mind.