Today i will continue my series on costumes of Halychyna. Javoriw [Yavoriw] county has a costume which was used longer and is better known than many other parts of Halychyna. In many Ukrainian books about folk costume which cover the entire country, it is presented as THE costume of Halychyna, or at least of Lviw Oblast, mostly because of lack of space. Here again is our map, so you may orient yourselves.
In more recent times, the chemise did not show below the hem of the skirt, because of the influence of western fasthion. You can see the distribution of the embroidery, except that additional embroidery was often introduced on the upper sleeve, with a break in the middle for the gatherings. As i mentioned, there are two types of skirts. The first one is called the Maliovanka, and was worn over all of Halychyna. It was made of linen, and hand block printed with designs in black. Here is an example.
The maliovanka was made of four loom widths of linen, finely gathered into a wide linen waistband on three sides, but left smooth in front, under the apron. The hem was left unprinted. The opening is in front, and there were two cords attached to the front of the waistband, which wrapped around the waist and tied. The other type of skirt is being worn by the woman in the photo above, and is called shorts. It has a linen or hemp warp, and the weft is of wool, woven in colorful narrow stripes. Again, it was gathered and sometimes finely pleated on three sides. A braid was attached to the bottom hem, and made a decorative braid on the front, under the apron. Obviously this was a garment more suitable for colder weather. Here are three examples.
Here is a schematic of an apron. This is the most common layout. Sometimes there are fewer rows of embroidery and hemstitching. Sometimes, as in the photos above, a larger design is used for the top row.
Here is yet another example of an apron.
As you can see, the designs are typically very simple, but varied, and build a design in stripes.
The sash was either woven on an inkle loom, or finger braided. Here are a couple examples.
Of the Kabat and Kamizelka, the Kabat is the older garment. It was made of linen, cut straight on the sides, or with the upper sleeve cut out of the body piece, which was folded over the shoulder. A circle was cut for the neck and a slit made for the front opening. The mid and lower sleeves were added on. Typically of a twill weave, it was worn by both men and women. It was embroidered down the front, on the collar and cuffs, and around the hem. Here are a couple of men's kabats, which retain the original cut. You can see the embroidery typical of the linen kabat here, which is also often used on the kamizelka, it is identical to that used on the apron. The kabat on the left is embroidered mostly in waxed linen thread, which gives the yellowish color. The men's shirt is the same cut as the woman's chemise, and was only embroidered with topstitching in the same waxed thread, forming rectangles to hold the pieces in place along the edges, rarely was any design added.
The woman's kabat later came to sometimes be made of wool or other store bought cloth. Here are a couple of examples.
Both of these examples are embroidered in Jaworiw style haft. The kamizelka was derived from the kabat by the loss of sleeves, and then cut along more modern lines so as to be somewhat fitted. Here is a schematic of the cut of the kamizelka.
The headpiece, bavnytsia, is one of the singularites of this costume. Here is a sketch of the bavnytsia worn by itself by Kul'chytska.