Today i am going to cover a costume of the last Latvian Province, Augšzeme or Selonia. This is considered to be a cultural region by historians and ethnographers, but it is not recognised politically. The Selonians were one of the Baltic Tribes known in the 13th cent. They have been assimilated into the Latvian and Lithuanian peoples, but traces of their culture and language remain in Augšzeme, and also in part of Aukštaitia in Lithuania. Here is a short article on the Selonians, a more extensive article on the history of Latvian ethnic groups and a historical map.
Selonia, Augšzeme, and Aukštaitia all mean highland. The first is derived from Livonian through German, the second is Latvian, and the third is Lithuanian. Here is our map so you can orient yourselves. Selonia, [Selija in Latvian] or Augšzeme is shown in a rust color
The chemise, or krekls is the basic unit of the costume. There are a few examples from this area which are unusual for Latvia. The chemise is cut with a shoulder inset sewn at the sides of the body, and the entire garment is then smocked into the collar. The sleeves are cut at an angle which narrows at the wrists, and there is no added cuff. The embroidery that has been collected has been cut off of the chemises, so we actually have no complete garment. Here are three examples of embroidered collars. This first one is the one which you can see in the photo above.
Aija Jansone et al, 'Ieteikumi Latviesu Tautas Terpu Valkatajiem', Riga, 2002
T. Razina, 'Folk Art in the Soviet Union', Leningrad, 1990