Have you ever noticed those small little windows indented into the walls of the old palazzi in Florence? Miniature copies of their full size counterparts, the main entrances to each palazzo, are made of solid wood, are sometimes decorated with carvings or iron studs, and even have their own little knocker.
Known as bucchette del vino, they come complete with jambs and Romanesque or Gothic style arches hewn in the local stone.
What purpose did they serve? They are too high and far too small even for children, but also too low to function as windows.
Behind these little doors the lords of Florence ran what was likely one of the most appreciated initiatives Florence has ever offered its citizens: a knock on the doorlet and a handful of coins procured a glass, mug, or flask of the finest red wine from the local vineyards (Impruneta, Careggi, Radda, Pomino, or Montalbano).
At one time there were hundreds of these curious little taverns located along the streets of old Florence. The landowners of the time obviously found that it was well worth selling their wares in both retail and wholesale form. Nevertheless, there were strict laws governing the opening hours of operation, as testified by the inscription over the doorlet on Via delle Belle Donne.
But few remain intact today. Some have fallen into neglect, others blocked up to create more space. Moreover, they are not always easy to recognise, as many have been adapted for today’s lifestyle in Florence, converted into state-of-the-art name plaques, or used to disguise gas or electric light meters.
However, it’s still fun to hunt for them. Via Maggio seems to be particularly rich in them. Look out for the elegant doorlet on Via del Giglio set in a framework of ashlars and still bearing the inscription vendita di vino (“wine for sale”), or the one on the corner of Via dei Bardi and Lungarno Torrigiani.
The Association of Wine Windows (l’Associazione delle Bucchette del vino) was created in Florence in April 2016 with the mission of preserving the historical heritage of the bucchette del vino, while at the same time acquainting the modern world with their function.
The Association intends to conduct a census of existing wine windows and to assist owners in protecting, restoring, or even unveiling them, as some have been removed, destroyed, or covered up.
According to the Association’s research, there are more than 130 wine windows in Florence, which shows just how essential these little architectural solutions were in the everyday life of the Florentine people. Most of them belonged to prominent dynasties such as the Ricasoli, Antinori, Niccolini, and Martelli families, who would bring wines produced on their Tuscan estates to their homes and market them in the city using this informal manner, a forerunner to the vinaio (wine and sandwich counters).