Last month, I watched a session of the UK’s Environmental Audit Committee online, focused on the subject of ‘sustainability in the fashion industry’. Representatives of retail giants including Marks and Spencer and Arcadia Group and online-only retailers boohoo and ASOS were quizzed by MPs about the transparency of their supply chain, the ethics of their employment practices and the environmental impact of the ‘fast fashion’ industry.
As a Scottish fashion industry insider and ‘circular economy’ design and manufacturing specialist, this Committee session was particularly interesting. It’s true that, in addition to being very poorly paid in parts of the world, the global fashion industry produces a staggering amount of waste and pollution every year. Estimates suggest that two-thirds of an average person’s wardrobe is never worn again a month after purchase and it is thought that old clothing and textiles make up over a quarter of all landfill.
In addition, the production methods associated with many textiles, for example, cotton, require a huge amount of water, which can in turn create irrigation problems and drought. There are also serious concerns about the volume of microfibres and chemicals released into the public water supply via washing clothes.
For these reasons and others, awareness around the ‘circular economy’ concept has grown within the fashion industry in recent years, championed by industry leaders such as Patagonia and Stella McCartney.
A circular economy is broadly defined as the antithesis of a traditional linear economy model (make, use, dispose) where we instead strive to design out waste and reduce the environmental impact created during the production and consumption process: keeping resources in use for as long as possible, extracting the maximum value from them while in use, then recovering and regenerating products and materials at the end of each life cycle in a closed loop.
Big questions, Scottish answers
From 2013 – 2016, the Scottish Textiles and Leather Association (now Scottish Textiles) took a leadership role in implementing circular economy principles by working with Zero Waste Scotland to build knowledge and skills in the industry.
It’s heartening to see the developments that have been made since then, with a range of Scottish microbusinesses, SMEs and larger established players leading the way in demonstrating the commercial viability of circular economy initiatives.
These companies include, at the luxury end, Johnstons of Elgin cashmere which has committed to sustainable fibre production by launching a goat herding education programme in Inner Mongolia to reduce the environmental impact of cashmere production and ensuring traceability in the supply chain.
Assemble by Kalopsia is a resource efficient bespoke manufacturing service that practices closed loop and offers the customer a range of style options that can be selected online. Colour Elements is an online and in-person service that provides training to help consumers make the right colour choices and avoid those fashion mistakes that mean wardrobe purchases are never worn.
Scotland has always excelled in the global fashion industry. I noticed recent media coverage of Chanel creating a UK base in London recently but few people realise that Chanel already owns Barrie Knitwear in the Borders today.
As we enter 2019, our vibrant mix of traditional businesses and emerging new companies are striving to retain their influence by embracing sustainability through the implementation of circular economy principles.
A circular Christmas
Given that much of ‘circular economy’ thinking focuses on the design of manufacturing and engineering processes, it can be difficult to see where we as individuals can begin to make a difference and reduce the shocking levels of waste associated with fashion.
As Christmas shopping season gets into full swing this week, here are a few ways you can begin to be more ‘circular’ in your fashion gift-giving:
• Don’t risk buying an unwanted present, buy a giftcard instead. Or, at least, make sure you know the correct size and colour preference of the recipient and include a gift receipt with a clear expiry date.
• Why buy clothes at all in 2019, when you can simply buy a subscription to rent or lease clothes? Think about it, why have wardrobes stuff full of clothes you never wear. Check out innovative brands like www.mudjeans.eu or www.laurasdresses.com for more details.
• Why not exchange skills rather than physical gifts? Good at mending clothes, painting nails or giving shoulder massages? Save yourself some money and spare the planet’s resources at the same time.
• Buy products made from circular economy design principles – apparel made from recycled polyester/recycled cotton.
• Do four members of the same household really need their own high-powered hairdryer? Think about buying joint gifts to be shared between the recipients.
• Wherever possible, buy from charity stores and/or buy locally, particularly locally-made products created from reclaimed or surplus materials.
Lynn Wilson, FRSA, led the Circular Economy textiles work at Zero Waste Scotland from 2013 -2016 and implemented the first circular economy engagement strategy for the National Manufacturing Action Plan led by Scottish Enterprise .
She is currently a PhD in Management researcher at the Adam Smith Business School , Glasgow University funded by the Economic Social Research Council . Her research explores understanding consumer behaviour in relation to the barriers and opportunities of achieving industrial material closed loops to achieve a circular economy.