MASTER GARDENER: The right time to harvest pumpkins
You'll know that it's time to harvest winter squash, including pumpkins, when the fruits have developed their full color and the vines begin to die
Q: I planted an assortment of pumpkins and winter squash this spring and have a good crop, but how do I know when they are ready for harvest? Some of the pumpkins are already starting to turn orange and itâs nowhere near Halloween.
A: The pumpkins in our garden are turning orange too. They are probably responding to the fact that our days are shortening as fall approaches. Youâll know that itâs time to harvest winter squash, including pumpkins, when the fruits have developed their full color and the vines begin to die. Once the vines die, thereâs no point to keeping the crop in the garden, regardless of the date on the calendar.
Another easy way to determine if winter squash is ready for harvest, even if the vines are still alive, is to scratch the rind with your fingernail. If the rind is too hard to scratch, the squash is ready for harvest. Cut the squashes and pumpkins from the vine but leave a two or three-inch stem attached. Remember never to pick up the pumpkin, especially the heavier ones, by the stem as it can break off quite easily. Remove any field soil from the fruits and allow them to cure in the sun for a week or two before moving them to a cool, dry place for storage or other use.
Q: The oranges on my Valencia orange tree are turning from orange to light green. Should I pull them off and throw them out?
A: Mature Valencia oranges, as well as some other citrus fruits, may begin to turn green in mid-summer. This is a process called regreening. The rind begins to turn green because the photosynthetic rate is high in summer, and the fruits are producing a lot of green chlorophyll in the rind. The fruit is still sweet and edible, so donât waste it.
Q: We will be planting a few new trees next month. Our neighbor says we should not amend the soil in the planting holes with compost. Is this correct?
A: The current University of California recommendation is to not amend the soil in the planting holes. There are several reasons for this. First, the amended soil will discourage your trees from leaving the luxurious planting hole you have created and growing into the surrounding native soil. This could result in a poor root system.
Second, water does not move well between soils of differing physical characteristics, so water will not move well from the rich amended soil to the surrounding native soil. This will also discourage your trees from developing extensive root systems
Third, compost decomposes over time and as this decomposition occurs, your trees may settle lower than their original planting level. You may end up with trees sitting in a sink hole or basin of some sort, possibly collecting water against the tree trunk that could lead to fungal disease. Adding more soil to the depression is not an option as soil against the tree trunk also may lead to disease.
If you want to give your trees the best start, plant them in the native soil, at the same level they were growing in the container, and add a few inches of mulch over the planting area to help conserve water and keep the roots cool.