Amaryllis is a popular holiday gift plant or in some cases serve as a Christmas tree instead of an actual tree. Whatever the reason, they may have the lucky recipient wondering about its proper care.
Amaryllis is a tender bulb that won't survive outdoors even in the mildest of Indiana winters. But it can be grown indoors to provide a dramatic show of color during dreary winter months.
The genus name for this plant is Hippeastrum, which means "horse star," an appropriate name for a plant that produces massive blooms as much as 8 to 10 inches across. These plants can produce three to four blooms on a 1- to 2-foot stem.
Often, a second flower stalk follows the first at about the time the flowers on the first stem fade. The leaves usually start to appear when the flowers begin to open. The showy flowers range from crimson, scarlet, rose, lavender, white or bi-colored combinations.
Amaryllis commonly is sold as a potted plant in full bloom or as a bulb kit for growing your own. For plants already in bloom, the flowers will last longer if you keep the plant in a cool location around 65 degrees. Warmer conditions may cause the flower stalks to become weak and require staking to support the weight of the blossoms.
If you have an amaryllis bulb kit, you just might have blooms in time for Valentine's Day.
Pour a layer of good-quality potting soil mix into the bottom of the container and place the bulb so that the pointed end is facing up. About half the bulb should stay exposed. Water thoroughly to establish good bulb-to-soil contact.
The flower bud may start to appear right away or the plant may remain dormant for a period of time, but eventually all mature bulbs do bloom. Move the plant to a cooler location and out of direct sunlight when the flower buds begin to show color so the flowers last longer. Amaryllis can remain in bloom for about a month.
After the flowers fade, you can keep amaryllis as a houseplant to re-bloom next year. Cut the faded flower stalk off at its base, place near a sunny window, and water and fertilize as you would other houseplants.
After all danger of frost is past in the spring, you can plunge the pot into the soil outdoors in an east- or west-facing location.
Late in summer, as the leaves begin to yellow, gradually cut back on watering until the leaves fade completely and the soil is dry. At this time, the bulb should be dormant.
Amaryllis often can be left in the same pot for several years but eventually will need repotting. Again, choose a pot that is only 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb and repeat the process described above. Offsets normally are produced by amaryllis and can be given their own pots if desired. These small bulbs have a concave side when removed but develop a round shape when given their own space.
Amanda Bailey Mosiman is an extension educator for the Purdue Extension Office in Warrick County. She can be reached at 812-897-6100 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
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