On Tuesday, politicians and the public will gather on Florida’s north-east coast to mark a milestone in American history: the 500th anniversary of the arrival of Juan Ponce de León. The explorer claimed this shoreline for Spain and, since it was Easter (Pascua Florida in Spanish), he named it La Florida.
No one knows exactly where the adventurer and his crew landed, but their last reported navigational fix was taken at noon on April 2, 1513, offshore at 30 degrees, eight minutes north. That is why I am standing high on a windswept sand dune at the same latitude, halfway between St Augustine and Ponte Vedra Beach. Below is a long, empty beach; inland is scrub, dense with vicious saw palmettos and thorny vines. This is pretty much what the newcomers faced; not surprisingly, they sailed on.
The Spanish first arrived to these shores 500 years ago
But half a century later, another Spanish explorer came – and stayed. In 1565, Pedro Menéndez de Avilés founded the settlement of St Augustine, now the “oldest permanently occupied European settlement in North America”.
If you have never heard of these events, you are not alone. Most history books focus on the English Pilgrim Fathers – and Mothers – who settled in Massachusetts in 1620. As for this part of Florida, it, too, is unknown to most British holidaymakers, who head for well-known destinations farther south. And that is a shame, because this region – dubbed the First Coast, and only two hours north-east of Orlando – is one my favourite destinations in the Sunshine State.
St Augustine, set on a bay and protected from the Atlantic by a sandy barrier island, looks like an overgrown village. The narrow streets are lined with palms, purple bougainvillea and two-storey houses painted pink and pistachio.
True, the historic district has its share of folksy attractions: you can shiver your timbers in the Pirate & Treasure Museum, buy T-shirts on pedestrianised St George Street and listen to dastardly tales on a ghost tour.
But don’t be fooled. This town is real, from the stern Old City Gate to the Oldest House Museum, with its stories of life in the 1700s. St Augustine’s Spanish roots are everywhere, from the Plaza de la Constitución to the Ximenez-Fatio House, another museum.
“This is not fake, it’s not Disney,” one local insists. “You can’t swing a short-tailed cat around here without hitting an historian, always ready to correct you.”
The must-see is the star-shaped Castillo de San Marcos that was built to safeguard Spanish treasure ships. Whitewashed and glinting in the sunshine, this fort stood like an enormous “Keep out” sign to brigands. “Sir Francis Drake is the bad guy around here,” a park ranger explains. “In 1586, he burned down the town and the original fort. That’s why this was built.” And some 150 years later, when the English returned to Florida, these 12ft-thick walls proved fit for purpose; the fortress remained unconquered.
Read our full Florida guide
| Florida overview
| Florida Hotels
From the ramparts, I look across rooftops to two towers soaring above a glorious confection of Spanish Renaissance architecture. This was the luxurious Hotel Ponce de León, built by Henry Flagler, an oil tycoon, who came to St Augustine in the winter of 1883. The sun shone, the weather was mild and Flagler spotted a business opportunity. He constructed hotels, laid a railroad and, within a few years, had turned an outpost into America’s equivalent of the French Riviera.
But this energetic entrepreneur did not stop there. Over the next 20 years, he extended his railway down the Atlantic Coast, repeating his strategy in Palm Beach, Miami and Key West – and put Florida on the tourism map.
But back to the Hotel Ponce de León, which is now part of Flagler College. “Welcome to the cafeteria,” says the guide, smiling as she watches our jaws drop. A century ago, the Vanderbilts and Carnegies took their time over dinner in this grandiose dining hall, with its gold leaf, marble and Tiffany stained-glass windows. Now students gobble their lunches, gather up books and rush off to class.
Flagler’s two other hotels are steps away. One has been transformed into the entertaining Lightner Museum, with its quirky collection of 19th-century curiosities, ranging from an elaborate desk made for Napoleon’s brother to old-fashioned musical machines, that are cranked up for daily concerts. The other, the Casa Monica, still welcomes guests and celebrates its 125th birthday this year.
And that is what I like about St Augustine: the past is part of the present. Revamped Avilés Street, “America’s oldest street”, bustles with cafés and galleries; a new promenade invites bayside strolls. Couples listen to live music in restaurants, then retire to romantic bed and breakfasts. Families take in the sights and head off for the 40 miles of beaches. There is lots to do.
For a slower pace, I head north to Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach, two hours up the coast. In the late 19th century, this was a wealthy port, but all that ended about a century ago. The bonus is that the old heart has retained its Victorian look, from the imposing courthouse and flamboyant post office to the Florida House Inn, the state’s oldest hotel and even the Palace Saloon, Florida’s oldest pub. The boutiques, bookshops and cafés are unchallenged by chain stores or fast-food outlets.
I settle in to my bed and breakfast, set in a spacious century-old house, then kick back and relax. One morning, I ride through the sea mist along an empty beach. Another day, I cycle to Fort Clinch where the park ranger expands on local history: “Florida was always a pawn, traded between European powers, such as France, Spain and England. But, other flags have also flown on Amelia Island; the Stars and Stripes, of course, but also those of Mexico and, in 1861, the Confederate banner.”
A local resident on Amelia Island
His slow drawl reminds me of the saying that “The farther north you go in Florida, the more Southern it is”. Up here, close to the Georgia border, palm trees give way to live oaks dripping with Spanish moss; menus include collard greens (loose-leafed cultivars of brassica oleracea), hush puppies (cornmeal dumplings) and grits (corn-based porridge). Orlando’s theme parks and Miami’s razzmatazz feel a world away, particularly if you are on a kayak expedition – as I am – through Little Talbot Island State Park with Ray Hetchka.
“This is not what people expect in Florida,” Ray points out, as we paddle through salt marshes, where kingfishers, herons, egrets and pelicans totally ignore us. “These backwaters have an endlessness that is special,” he adds. “This is what Florida was like before the Europeans arrived 500 years ago.”
America As You Like It (020 8742 8299; americaasyoulikeit.com) offers six nights on Florida's First Coast, including return flight from London Heathrow to Jacksonville on Delta, car hire, three nights at the Casa Monica (room only), St Augustine and three nights bed and breakfast at the Addison on Amelia, from £1,190 per person, based on two sharing, travelling in April or May.
Delta (0871 221 1222; delta.com) flies to Jacksonville up to ten times a day from London Heathrow and Manchester via Atlanta.
Rhinocarhire.com (0845 508 9845; rhinocarhire.com) has one week’s hire from Jacksonville airport from £120.
Where to stay
Unless otherwise stated, prices are for two sharing, including breakfast.
With nine rooms and a two-bedroomed cottage, this Victorian b&b is cheerful, informal and handy for all the sights. Breakfast out on the porch; free bicycles, beer, wine (001 904 829 2467; carriageway.com; doubles from $139/£94).
Bayfront Westcott House
Overlooking the bay, this b&b has 16 luxurious bedrooms, some with private terrace; four are in the Carriage House (904 825 4602; westcotthouse.com; doubles from $149/£100).
Recently-renovated, this historic hotel has 138 large, comfy rooms, an outdoor pool and a restaurant serving elaborate dishes (904 827 1888; casamonica.com; doubles from $161/£108; breakfast extra).
Amelia Island/Fernandina Beach
Florida House Inn
In the heart of town, Florida's oldest hotel is plain, comfortable and affordable (904 491 3322; floridahouseinn.com; doubles from $140/£94, including breakfast).
The Addison on Amelia Island
One of Florida's finest b&bs, this 15-room complex has balconies overlooking oak trees and a courtyard fountain. In the Historic District; imaginative breakfasts cooked to order; free bicycles, beach gear (904 277 1604; addisononamelia.com; doubles from $185/£124).
Where to eat
This neighbourhood restaurant sources local produce for its hearty dishes: Not Your Mama's Meatloaf Sandwich or Cornbread Panzanella, with shrimp on toasted cornbread, heirloom tomatoes and house-pickled veg (39 Cordova Street; 904 829 0655; thefloridianstaug.com).
Cap’s on the Water
With its outside deck overlooking the water and a busy oyster bar, this is Old Florida with a modern twist: horseradish-crusted grouper, jambalaya, blackened shrimp tacos. Six miles from downtown (4325 Myrtle Street; 904 824 8794; capsonthewater.com).
Small and intimate, so book ahead to dine on warm goat cheese salad, grouper and lobster ravioli (60 Hypolita Street; 904 829 0055; collagestaug.com).
Singleton's Seafood Shack
On A1A, the old coast road, this dockside restaurant is popular, fun – and serves great seafood. Don't be put off by outward appearances (by the Mayport ferry; Atlantic Beach; 904 246 4442).
Family-owned and run with a leafy outdoor terrace. Stick to home-made burgers, salads, steaks and beers from their own micro-brewery (27 North 3rd Street; 904 277 5269; cafekaribo.com)
Passionate about farm to fork produce, chef-owner Scotty Schwartz conjures up modern versions of Southern dishes: fried shrimp with creamy grits, slow-roasted pork belly, scallops on a pea risotto, even doughnut bread pudding (29 South 3rd Street; 904 277 7919; 29southrestaurant.com).
What do do
St Augustine Gold Tours (904 325 0547; staugustinegoldtours.com; from £10) are led by a British former barrister, who provides entertaining insights into local history; maximum six passengers on his small electric “bus”.
Kayak Amelia (904 251 0016; kayakamelia.com; $65/£44) provides all the gear for anyone from novice to expert for three-hour paddles to see wildlife and an old slave plantation.
Stay'N Country Ranch (siteskins.net/stayncountryranch; $70/£47) has well-trained horses for riding along the beach or on nature trails through quiet woods.
Read our full Florida guide
| Florida overview
| Florida Hotels
Read our USA travel guides