First, what is it? Color work v. intarsia: Stranded color work is a style of knitting in which two (or more) colors appear in the same row, with the color not in use carried behind the stitch being made. Both colors travel the entire round (it is usually knitted circularly). Sometimes referred to Fair Isle (and some people make a distinction for reasons not relevant here), it is different from intarsia, which is usually knitted flat (back and forth) and is frequently used to create larger areas of color, using only one working yarn at a time.
The key to successful stranded color work is getting the floats to be just the right length. Floats are the strands of the second color that run behind the work; when you knit a stitch with A, you will have a float of B behind it. When you knit several stitches with A, your float, made of B, will be longer. If the float is too short (most common among new color workers), the knitting will pucker. If the float is too long, the knitting will be loose, perhaps uneven, and can have unsightly gaps and be less warm to wear.
Tips for getting your floats just right:
- Stretch out the stitches on the right hand needle before taking a stitch with a different color.
- Let the float LIE RELAXED. Even a little stretching can be hard to detect - and that little bit of stretch can affect whether your finished piece lies flat. So: let. the. yarn. relax.
- Pull the yarn for the next stitch from the skein and not from the float.
- Remember that blocking makes a huge difference, i.e., don’t panic if it looks a little bumpy.
- "Dominant" yarns... there’s a split of opinion out there as to whether you always have to keep the two yarns in the same working position, ie. one always on top, one always on bottom. I don’t worry about them even a little bit, but it’s all about finding what works for you.
Knitting style? I knit continental and carry both yarns in my left hand. I’ve seen people carry both in their right. It’s popular to carry one in each hand. The point is that it can be done with any style. Find what is comfortable to you. Recognize that when you first start out, it will probably feel a bit unfamiliar. That doesn't mean you're using the wrong style; it means that you're getting accustomed to something new.
Long floats: My rule of thumb when using worsted weight yarn is to go no more than three stitches without catching the unused color behind the work, aka a “twist.” Pay attention to where the twists/catches occur in the previous row, and avoid twisting between the same stitches in the next row where possible. Some of the carried yarn may show through in large, solid areas. The remedy: relax! Blocking will take care of a lot of it. This is a skill that takes a good bit of practice to perfect. One day I hope to do just that! I’ve seen projects by famous knitters that still have the odd bit showing through occasionally.
[I'd insert a picture of the front and back of some color work, but I keep getting an error...]
If you’re reading this because you found the link in my Folk Art Hat pattern, keep in mind also that the embellishment will distract and/or cover any floats that peak through, and if all else fails, take heart in this being folk art, where imperfection is not only allowed, but welcomed!
Another note for Folk Art Hat knitters: Don’t get hung up on the idea of three stitches if you’re knitting the larger size Folk Art Hat, which has a four-stitch checkerboard. Since the back of the checkerboard will be covered by the facing, you don’t need to twist in the middle of those spans. Just be really attentive to the length of your carries, as with all stranded knitting.
Changing Colors Between Rows: I like to weave in as I go. That way I’m not faced with the tedious and procrastination-inducing task of weaving in all those ends when I finish knitting. Here’s how I do it on the fly:
Four stitches before I’m going to start using a new color, I simply start twisting/catching the new color behind every stitch; the same as you do in the middle of a long float. It takes a little practice to get the tension right, but it’s well worth the effort.
When I’m finished with a color, I then twist/catch the old color behind the next four stitches of the new color. Next I cut the old color, leaving a tail of 3/4” or more. Why such a long tail? While a shorter tail does indeed leave the back looking neat and tidy, it can also pop out to the front when the fabric is stretched. Not only is that bad for appearance, it also means that one of the weaves has come undone, meaning that your yarn is less securely fastened.
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you found something here that's useful, and even more important, that you find some joy in whatever you make.
Move toward your passion rather than away from your fear and resistance.