Krishna Carvings at Banteay Srei
Among the many Vaishnava ruins in Cambodia, the 10th century temple of Banteay Srei in Angkor has several of the most beautiful carved renditions of Sri Krsna found anywhere in the country. The Lord is depicted in two famous lila scenes, one from the Bhagavat Purana and one from Mahabharata.
Banteay Srei (or Banteay Srey) is a Shiva temple lying 15 miles northeast of the main complex at Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom and Yasodharapura were once important capitals in the area, and ancient temple ruins are found all around the area. Similar temple ruins are now being threatened with further ruin due to the recent increase in volcanic activity in Indonesia, which rains down particles highly corrosive to the area's soft sandstone carvings.
Most of the temple constructions in the Angkor area are enormous, but the Banteay Srei temple is very small in comparison, making it particularly enjoyable for pilgrims to explore. Built in 967 A.D., Banteay Srei is the only major temple at Angkor not built by a local ruler. This temple was raised by a scholar named Yajnavaraha, who worked in the service of King Rajendravarman. On his own accord, Yajnavaraha also offered financial support to local citizens suffering from ill health, poverty or injustice.
The temple was originally known as Tribhuvanamahesvara, referring to both Lord Visnu and Lord Shiva, and the village surrounding it was called Isvarapura. The name Banteay Srei is thought to refer to the many devatas carved into the red sandstone walls. The name also translates to 'citadel of women' or 'citadel of beauty'.
Tribhuvanamahesvara was dedicated to the presiding deity, a Shiva linga residing in the central part of the structure, but the temple complex was also divided along its east-west axis, with areas located north of the axis being devoted to the worship of Lord Visnu, and those south of the axis dedicated to Lord Shiva.
One of the most famous carvings in the complex is that of Lord Nrsimhadeva, who appears in His ugra mood, but stylistically carved very much in the Cambodian style. He is furiously attacking the demon Hiranyakasipu, who is positioned in a unique way on the carved surface, with his head due south of the Lord's head, rather than lying horizontally across His lap.
In the style of most Khmer temples, Banteay Srei is oriented to the east, having three concentric rectangular enclosures along its east-west axis. A causeway along the axis leads from the outer gopura to the third and outermost of the three wings. The sanctum is in the inner enclosure, with three towers above. There are two adjacent wings known as the libraries.
The library in the south has a west-facing pediment upon which is carved a beautiful depiction from Krsna lila. This one depicts Krsna slaying the wicked Kamsa, who has collapsed to his knees beneath the mighty hand of Sri Krsna. Behind Krsna's head the end of Balarama's plow is visible, and behind Kamsa there are waves carved into the backdrop, probably depicting the evaporation of the demon's life airs.
Also carved into this west-facing pediment is a scene depicting Shiva and Uma on Mount Kailasa, with Kamadeva pointing an arrow at Shiva, and another scene of the burning of Khandava Forest.
The east-facing pediment on the northern library is carved with a scene of Lord Indra, creating rain to put out the forest fire started by Agni, who wished to kill the Naga king, Takshaka in Khandava Forest. Indra is riding on Airavata, surrounded by worshippers who are begging for his assistance with the fire. However, Indra's intervention is being opposed by Sri Krsna and Arjuna, who are seen bottom right, standing on their chariots.
Helping Agni, the two are sending a battery of arrows towards the heavens to prevent the rain from reaching the ground. Their arrows form a roof of protection, supported from below by a row of hamsas, who stand between Indra's waters and the forest below. Takshaka's son Aswasena is seen trying to escape the fire, climbing the roof of arrows, with panicked animals below.
Carved in traditional Khmer style, these wall sculptures are beautiful renditions from Vedic sastra, and provide a unique view of the Lord's pastimes.