Properly evaluate the job.
Using a checklist, record and attempt to verify the condition of all related parts.
Using multiple information systems, locate all pertinent technical service bulletins.
Remove the engine assembly.
Call the customer with the final estimate. Discuss the service bulletin updates and the root causes for the engine failure.
Rebuild or purchase an engine (short or long block).
Install the cylinder heads and “tin” the engine.
Install the engine into the vehicle.
Set-up, test-drive and re-check your job.
While interviewing Don McDonald of Havana Machine in Aurora, CO, I was surprised at the thoroughness of their shop’s vehicle inspection sheet. Many items were no-brainers: tune-up parts, drive belts, clutch components, vacuum hoses and radiator hoses. But, have you ever considered the following during an engine replacement?• Molded hoses – Many of the smaller coolant hoses are overlooked.• Oil coolers – If the engine had metal moving through its oiling system due to bearing failure, consider replacing the oil cooler instead of simply flushing it out.• Belt tensioners and idler pulleys – Are the pulleys grooved or are the bearings worn out?• Fan shroud/Fan clutch – Is the full volume of air being pulled through the radiator?• Fan motor/Fan switch – The switch can be sold as easily as a new thermostat, but how hard do you push for a new cooling fan motor?
• Battery/AC generator/ Starter/Cables – What an opportunity to sell a complete starting and charging system diagnosis!
Now that the engine is painted, dressed and run on the engine test stand (if you have one), then you’re ready to toss that puppy back in place. Mounts, hoses, bell-housing bolts, brackets and pumps are all reattached. Are you like me and let the air ratchet dead head to properly torque these fasteners? Well, I do still torque critical ones, and I use blue Loctite on pulley bolts or other threads that I want to ensure stay locked. If the engine cradle was removed to get the engine out, then cradle alignment may be an issue. Many have positive pins that ensure almost exact replacement of the cradle, but some do not. Alignment should be checked after a cradle has been removed. Gentlemen (and Ladies) … Start Your Engines!
Once an engine is installed at Havana Machine, a comprehensive Pre-Delivery Inspection is performed. All fluids are filled and burped, clutch or transmissions kick-down cables are adjusted, and a five-gas exhaust analysis is performed.In our emissions test area, it is critical to be thorough when servicing the engine performance system. When the injectors are tested and cleaned or replaced, and the computer input sensors are checked or replaced, this goes a long way toward ensuring that the vehicle will have a fighting chance of passing our enhanced emissions test. Even if you don’t have mandatory emissions testing in your area, what kind of engine performance improvement will your customer realize when you pay close attention to those critical Powertrain Control Module inputs?Heck, let’s take it a step further and make certain that the mass airflow sensor is cleaned during our engine swap.During the test drive, all gauges are monitored for function and accuracy, the cruise control is tested and all vehicle systems are run through their paces. Back at the bay, the engine is checked for leaks, all clamps are snugged and another LOF is performed to remove break-in debris.The other test that is performed is a computer scan. Each computer-accessible engine is scanned for trouble codes and, if it has data stream, has each parameter scrutinized. Havana has purchased every Simu-Tech cable available (I’m not kidding). These guys take computer access seriously, as they should. Scrutinizing PCM data stream, especially when the cause of the engine’s demise is not apparent, is critical.If poor performance during the test drive is thought to be attributed to a restricted exhaust, the pipe is tapped ahead of the catalytic converter, and an exhaust backpressure test is performed. The tap is methodically moved toward the rear of the car until the restriction is located. All converters are also given the “tap test” to determine if the substrate has broken apart, or if loose chunks could be blocking the muffler.
The day of simply replacing an engine and related parts by the seat-of-our-pants is gone. We all need to follow a comprehensive routine while estimating the job, and while performing the Pre-Delivery Inspection.
An engine replacement is full of surprises, and we need to minimize becoming blind-sided by unforeseen issues. If we develop and implement a process similar to the one used by Havana Machine, we can only increase parts sales and reduce comebacks.
Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound when they go bad. Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further contributes to noise. When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won’t help because the joint is worn and needs to be replaced. The "normal" life of a CV joint is usually 100,000 miles or more. But a joint can fail prematurely if the rubber boot that surrounds it is damaged or develops a leak. Cv Joint Boots The boot, which is made of rubber or hard plastic, serves two purposes: it keeps the joint’s vital supply of special grease inside, and it keeps dirt and water out. After five or six years of service, it’s not unusual for the boot to develop age cracks or splits. Boots can also be damaged by road hazards or a careless tow truck operator who uses J-hooks to tow your vehicle. Once the boot seal is broken, the inside grease quickly leaks out. Starved for lubrication, the CV joint soon fails. Dirt and water can also enter the boot and contaminate any grease that’s left inside. Either way, a damaged boot is bad news for the joint. CV joint boots should be inspected periodically (when the oil is changed is a good time) to make sure they are not cracked or torn, and that the clamps are tight. If you see grease on the outside of the boot, it is leaking and needs to be replaced (the sooner the better). If a clamp is loose and the boot is leaking grease at one end, the clamp needs to be replaced. Original equipment boots are a one-piece design, which means the driveshaft and CV joint have to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to replace a bad boot. However, there are aftermarket "split-boots" designed for easy do-it-yourself installation. The split-boots eliminate the need to remove and disassemble the joint and driveshaft. You simply cut off the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as possible from the joint, pack the joint with fresh high temperature CV joint grease (never ordinary chassis grease), then install the new boot. Most split-boots have a seam that is glued together. The seam must not have any grease smeared on it and the glue must be applied carefully for a good seal. Also, the vehicle must not be driven until the glue has cured (about an hour or so). NOTE: Most professional mechanics do not use split-boots because (1) they don’t think a split-boot is as reliable or as long-lived as a one-piece original equipment style boot, and (2) they don’t like the idea of installing a new boot on a questionable joint. By the time a damaged or leaky boot is noticed, the joint has usually lost most of its grease and/or been contaminated by dirt. Unless the joint is removed, disassembled, cleaned and inspected, there’s no way to know if it is still in good enough condition to remain in service. If it’s making noise, replacing the boot would be a waste of time because the joint is bad and needs to be replaced (most new joints come with a new boot, clamps and grease). But even if the joint isn’t making any noise, it may still have wear or internal damage that will soon cause it to fail. WARNING: A CV joint failure can cause loss of steering control under certain circumstances. If the joint locks up, it can prevent the wheels from being turned.
