  The above question is frequently asked by theorists who are interested in
graphene as a model system, especially in context of relativistic quantum
physics. We offer an experimental answer by describing electron transport in
suspended devices with carrier mobilities of several 10^6 cm^2V^-1s^-1 and with
the onset of Landau quantization occurring in fields below 5 mT. The observed
charge inhomogeneity is as low as \approx10^8 cm^-2, allowing a neutral state
with a few charge carriers per entire micron-scale device. Above liquid helium
temperatures, the electronic properties of such devices are intrinsic, being
governed by thermal excitations only. This yields that the Dirac point can be
approached within 1 meV, a limit currently set by the remaining charge
inhomogeneity. No sign of an insulating state is observed down to 1 K, which
establishes the upper limit on a possible bandgap.
