  Triton possesses a thin atmosphere, primarily composed of nitrogen, sustained
by the sublimation of surface ices. The goal is to determine the composition of
Triton's atmosphere and to constrain the nature of surface-atmosphere
interactions. We perform high-resolution spectroscopic observations in the
2.32-2.37 $\mu$m range, using CRIRES at the VLT. From this first spectroscopic
detection of Triton's atmosphere in the infrared, we report (i) the first
observation of gaseous methane since its discovery in the ultraviolet by
Voyager in 1989 and (ii) the first ever detection of gaseous CO in the
satellite. The CO atmospheric abundance is remarkably similar to its surface
abundance, and appears to be controlled by a thin, CO-enriched, surface veneer
resulting from seasonal transport and/or atmospheric escape. The CH$_4$ partial
pressure is several times larger than inferred from Voyager. This confirms that
Triton's atmosphere is seasonally variable and is best interpreted by the
warming of CH$_4$-rich icy grains as Triton passed southern summer solstice in
2000. The presence of CO in Triton's atmosphere also affects its temperature,
photochemistry and ionospheric composition. An improved upper limit on CO in
Pluto's atmosphere is also reported.
