  Once upon a time, the world was simple: the proton contained three quarks,
two {\it ups} and a {\it down}. How these give the proton its mass and its spin
seemed obvious. Over the past forty years the proton has become more
complicated, and how even these most obvious of its properties is explained in
a universe of quarks, antiquarks and gluons remains a challenge. That this
should be so should come as no surprise. Quantum Chromodynamics, the theory of
the strong interaction, is seemingly simple, and its consequences are
straightforward in the domain of hard scattering where perturbation theory
applies. However, the beauty of the hadron world is its diversity. The
existence of hadrons, their properties, and their binding into nuclei do not
appear in the Lagrangian of QCD. They all emerge as a result of its strong
coupling. Strong coupling QCD creates complex phenomena, much richer than known
40 years ago: a richness that ensures colour confinement and accounts for more
than 95\% of the mass of the visible Universe. How strong coupling QCD really
works requires a synergy between experiment and theory. A very personal view of
these fascinating developments in cold QCD is presented.
