  "The last remnant of physical objectivity of space-time" is disclosed, beyond
the Leibniz equivalence, in the case of a continuous family of spatially
non-compact models of general relativity. The {\it physical individuation} of
point-events is furnished by the intrinsic degrees of freedom of the
gravitational field, (viz, the {\it Dirac observables}) that represent - as it
were - the {\it ontic} part of the metric field. The physical role of the {\it
epistemic} part (viz. the {\it gauge} variables) is likewise clarified. At the
end, a peculiar four-dimensional {\it holistic and structuralist} view of
space-time emerges which includes elements common to the tradition of both {\it
substantivalism} and {\it relationism}. The observables of our models undergo
real {\it temporal change} and thereby provide a counter-example to the thesis
of the {\it frozen-time} picture of evolution.
  Invited Contribution to the ESF 2004 Oxford Conference on Space-Time
