The Tao of Taos Pueblo
by Linda Thompson
Taos Pueblo ©Terry Thompson,
(Taos, New Mexico) In Chinese
philosophy, the tao is the natural process through which all things
change, a process necessary to a harmonious life. Taoism is a mystical
sixth-century B.C. philosophy that Confucians adopted as the path of
virtuous conduct. In the Tiwa language of Taos Pueblo, however, tao
means 'to or toward the village.' Are the two words related?
It is believed that Spaniards,
encountering the people now known as Taos Native Americans in their
multistoried villages as early as 1598, heard them say 'tao' and added
the 's' to form a plural. Thereafter, foreigners called both the village
and its inhabitants 'Taos.' Although they are spelled the same and
pronounced not too differently, the two versions of 'tao' have no common
ancestry. Yet with their strong belief in the unity of all living
things, a focus on fostering a balanced relationship between human
beings and nature, and a general preference for the spiritual over the
material, the Taos people can be said to walk a virtuous path. It is the
path of preserving their culture, strengthening their community, and
honoring their families.
Archaeologists believe that the Pueblo
people who settled the Rio Grande valley migrated from the Four Corners
region of the Southwest. If so, they are descendants of the Anasazi, a
native culture that antedates these Tanoan-speaking groups. (Tanoan
includes Tiwa, Tewa, and Towa, languages still spoken by people in ten
of New Mexico's nineteen existing pueblos.) In any case, the Taos people
and their village have been in this location since at least A.D. 1350,
and some ruins in the area may go back a thousand years or more.
Spanish explorers visited the Rio
Grande Valley beginning with Coronado's journey in 1541-42 and
culminating in 1598 with the founding of the first Spanish settlement in
this region at San Juan Pueblo just north of what is now Española. (San
Juan has recently reverted to its native name of O'Ke Oweegne.) In 1680
Taos led a rebellion against Spanish occupation, with the result that
the Spaniards were kicked out of New Mexico for thirteen years. This is
said to have been the only successful expulsion by natives of a
colonizing force in U.S. history. Eventually Spain was allowed back into
the region to help the pueblos protect themselves against raids by
Apaches and other nomadic tribes.
Taos Pueblo has been continuously
occupied for at least 650 years. Today it has about 150 full-time
residents. By tradition, they have no electricity or running water,
using the water of the Rio Pueblo, which flows from the sacred Blue Lake
high in the mountains, for their needs. Another 1,800 or so Taos people
live on nearby Pueblo lands, which total about 99,000 acres. Some of
them move back to Pueblo homes for feast days and religious ceremonies.
The two large five-story adobe
structures - Hlauuma (north house) and Hlaukwima (south house) - are
made of mud and straw. Large timbers (vigas) form the roofs, with pine
or aspen branches (latillas) placed on top and covered with packed dirt.
Each year, residents add a thick layer of mud to the buildings' exterior
walls. The brightly colored window trims and doorways are fairly recent
additions. In the days of nomadic raiders, homes had no doors or
windows; residents used ladders to enter rooms from holes in the roof,
pulling the ladders up behind them.
The San Geronimo Chapel is also
relatively new, dating from 1850. It replaced the original Spanish
mission of 1619, which like all things Catholic was burned in 1680. It
was soon rebuilt, only to be destroyed by the U.S. Army in the Mexican
War of 1847. Its ruins still stand on the west edge of the Pueblo,
alongside the old cemetery. Photography is not allowed inside the church
or around the ruins and cemetery.
Taos Pueblo was designated a National
Historic Landmark in 1965. In 1992, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage
Site. The Taos people generously share much of their culture with
others; however, as with many native cultures, their religion is private
and they do not freely discuss it. Most of the ceremonies that are open
to outsiders forbid photography, sketching, or other 'capturing' of
dancers or participants. An exception is the autumn Pow-Wow, an event
attended by natives from all over the country, which includes dance
competitions for men, women, and children. Cameras must be declared,
however, and a small fee is required. In addition, professional
photographers must apply for a permit in advance.
Other must-see events include the New
Year's Day Turtle Dance, various dances on January 6, San Geronimo Day
on September 30, and the unforgettable Christmas ceremonies. Taoseños
and visitors alike flock to the Pueblo at dusk on Christmas Eve to watch
the Procession of the Virgin, as she is carried out of the church and
around the village accompanied by rifle shots and dancing matachines,
while dozens of bonfires soar to thirty feet or more, creating a rare
and primeval experience. The following day the dignified Deer Dance or
a similar formal observance of Christmas is offered. A full schedule of
events, along with visiting hours and other helpful information, is
Inside Pueblo walls, visitors can try
native foods such as fry bread and roasted corn and visit the modest
shops of Pueblo artists and artisans. Taos specialties include pottery
made with local micaceous clay, silver jewelry, buckskin moccasins and
drums, and alabaster sculptures. Zuni fetishes, Hopi kachinas, and woven
blankets also can be purchased in some shops.
Entry to the Pueblo is currently ten
dollars for adults, five dollars for students with I.D., and free to
children under thirteen. Three or more adults are admitted for eight
dollars each. Except for closures for religious reasons, the Pueblo is
open to visitors from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily. It's a good idea to
check the web site or call ahead to make sure it is open.
Contact the Taos Pueblo Tourism
Department at (505) 758-1028.
For permit information call the Governor's Office, (505) 758-9593.
The Taos Mountain Casino, located on
the main road to the Pueblo, is open every day from 8:00 a.m. Explore
its web site,
or call for information: (888) 946-8267 or (505) 737-0777.
Information and photo submitted
Photo: Terry Thompson
High Mesa Productions
HCR 74 Box 22273
El Prado, New Mexico 87529
Linda and Terry Thompson
Thompson, co-owner of High Mesa
Productions, writes children’s books
and magazine articles, among other
things. She is an online instructor
for U.C. Berkeley Extension’s
intermediate copyediting courses.
With her husband, Terry, she lives
in Taos, New Mexico, which they
consider to be like no other place
they’ve ever been. During their
joint and separate lives, they’ve
lived in the San Francisco Bay area,
Los Angeles, Seattle, rural England,
Barcelona, Honolulu, and Washington,
D.C. Now, their camera and keyboard
are mainly focused on the western
states and Texas, with occasional
excursions to other parts of the
world. See their
website for additional
background and experience.