This is photographic study of the the JAMDANI weaving process by Enamul Hoque.
Jamdani is a form of fine muslin cloth with geometric or floral designs. The fabric is still being produced and in recent times there has been an increase in its popularity. However, today’s Jamdani muslin is rather different as the cotton used now is not as soft as it used to be in the past when Dhaka muslin was produced in great quantity and exported to most part of the then known world.
Jamdani is usually associated with saree, but there are Jamdani scarves, kurtas, turbans, skirts, handkerchiefs, screens and tablecloths as well. In Dhaka, the art of making Jamdani designs on fine fabric reached its highest achievements during the Mughal period. There were handlooms in almost all villages of Dhaka district. Dhaka, Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Titabari, Jangalbari and Bajitpur were famous for making high quality Jamdani. Traders from Europe, Iran, Armenia and other places came to Dhaka to by these fabrics. The Mughal Emperor, the Nawab of Bengal and other aristocrats used to engage agents at Dhaka to buy high quality Jamdani for their use.
There are a variety of Jamdani designs and expert weavers do not need to draw first on paper. However, they can incorporate most designs on a piece of cloths they are weaving. Just give them a beautiful pattern and they will incorporate it in the saree or fabric that you order.
Jamdani sarees have different names according to their design. For example, a Jamdani with small flowers on the fabric is known as Butidar. If these flowers are arranged in reclined position it is called Tersa Jamdani. It is not necessary that these designs are made of flowers only. There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers. If such designs cover the entire field of the saree it is called Jalar Naksha. Jamdani sarees are much sought after by fashion-conscious women for their elegance. Bengal is a large hub of Jamdani saree suppliers and different kinds of Jamdani sarees are manufactured and Dhakai Jamdani is one of them. Dhakai Jamdani sarees are distinguished from others by its very fine texture and the elaborate and ornate workmanship.
Rupganj Jamdani Village is a cluster of small scale family based factories weaving beautiful sarees. Most of the owners of the factories and weavers are following a long family tradition of Jamdani manufacturing. It takes about one year’s training to learn how to weave quality Jamdani sarees and factory owners rarely give full responsibility for saree weaving to trainees before completing the 12 month. It takes about one week to produce a basic design, although a more exquisite design could take many months and the price also varies accordingly. Jamdani is a saree for the special occasion.
These images seeks to archive the different steps involved in the weaving process of the Jamdani with the weavers.