 
 
Hello, and welcome to this second instalment
of Sorastro's zombie painting tutorial series.
In this episode, we'll be painting Toxic Zombies
from season two of the board game Zombicide.
We'll be painting our Toxic Zombies
using the same four stage-method
described in the first episode of this series.
Prep & Spray,
Base Colours,
Quickshade,
and Finishing Touches.
But we'll be adding two smaller additional steps
in order to give our zombies a toxic green finish.
Firstly, a green glaze, which we apply
before painting on the base colours.
And secondly, some light green highlights,
which we apply as part of the finishing touches.
We will also take a brief look at how
Citadel's Nurgle's Rot technical paint
may be used to add a toxic slime effect.
For a more in-depth look at the four
main stages of this process,
please see episode 1 of this series,
as we won't be going into them in as much
detail here to avoid unnecessary repetition.
With that out of the way, let's get started.
 
As always, we remove any obvious
mould lines before spraying on the primer.
As with our regular zombies, I'm using
Army Painter's Necrotic Flesh
to prime and undercoat the figures,
taking care not to overspray the figures
to avoid any loss of detail.
Now they're primed and ready, we come
to the first additional step in this process
that will help give our zombies'
flesh a vibrant green tint:
the green glaze.
I'm using Citadel's Waywatcher Green,
and we're simply going to apply
the glaze, with a good sized brush,
to all the areas of skin, directly
from the pot and with no dilution.
This is a pretty quick and simple step
that shouldn't take too long,
and we don't have to worry about splashing the clothes,
as they're going to be painted over
in the next step anyway.
We can see here, how the glaze imparts
an almost luminous green hue
with little darkening of the miniature.
The only thing to avoid here, is allowing the glaze
to pool too much in the recessed areas,
as it can dry to leave a cracked
white residue, as you can see here.
Having said that, we needn't worry too much
as the Quickshade will do
a nice job of covering it up later.
 
Next we paint the clothes and hair.
I'm choosing fairly bright colours to give
the Toxic Zombies a more vibrant presence,
but also because we know that the Quickshade
will darken the finished look in the next step.
Just remember to always thin
the paint with a little water.
I'm using mostly paints from the Base range by Citadel,
as they have quite a high pigmentation,
so give a solid colour in just one or two coats.
Although some colours,
like the white of this fatty's t-shirt,
took around three to four coats.
I'm using mostly a size 2 brush
and switching to a smaller size 0 for the finer details.
For the fatties, I'm going to paint
their spikes in a bone colour
using Ushabti Bone as a base,
which I will highlight later in the finishing touches stage.
It's worth trying to be as neat as you can
when painting the base colours,
but it's also worth remembering that mistakes
can easily be covered up with blood later on.
However, if you do stray onto the skin
by mistake – and want to touch it up –
something like Citadel's Nurgling Green
will give you a pretty close skin tone match
that you can use to neaten up any scruffy edges.
Here we see the completed base colours,
with some of the main colours I've used
labelled for reference.
Which means, these zombies
are now ready for the Quickshade.
 
With some white spirit ready
to clean my brush afterwards,
we now coat each zombie with the Quickshade.
Then, after coating all five, we go back
over each one to remove the excess.
Once we're happy with the way
the Quickshade has settled over the figures,
we wait 24 hours before spraying with
the Dullcote, to remove the glossy finish.
At this point, you may like to add
an additional coat of the green glaze
to boost the vibrancy of the skin.
If you do, take care not to allow the glaze to pool.
Otherwise, you may find it dries to leave
the white deposits mentioned earlier,
like I found here.
If it does, a quick touch up with something dark,
like this thinned Stormvermin Fur, will cover it up nicely.
These are ready for some finishing touches.
 
Before adding the blood,
we're going to add some light green highlights
to really help make the skin tone pop.
I'm mixing some Moot Green
with a roughly equal quantity of white.
We're going to hit all of the small
raised areas of the skin,
such as the protruding spikes
and pustules we can see here.
Notice, we don't need to be too precious
or precise to pick out those areas,
and create a nice sense of contrast that
adds to the garish green look of the model.
We can also highlight knuckles, elbows,
as well as the nose, cheekbones, and eyebrows,
but we may need to work with a little more care.
Finally, before adding the blood, we paint the eyes,
and I'll be sticking with the same pale blue
that I used for the regular zombies.
For the spikes on the Toxic Fatties,
I now re-apply the Ushabti Bone.
Then mix a fair bit of white in,
to add an off-white highlight
to really make them stand out
against the darker green skin tone.
If you're concerned about
protecting the newly added highlights,
you may like to give the figures an additional
coat of the matte varnish at this stage,
as we don't want to use it later on
in order to preserve the glossy finish
of the blood and slime that we're about to add.
For the blood, I'm using the same
Tamiya Red with black and brown mix,
described in the first episode,
and applying it with an old brush in the same way;
varying the amount I use for each model
and covering up any areas of
the base colour I'm not happy with.
As the Toxic Abominations don't have many clothes,
some additional blood at the base of the spines
is a nice way to add some extra colour to the figures,
and give the impression of the spines having
recently sprouted out of the skin in a painful manner.
For this tutorial, I've also tried out
Citadel's technical paint: Nurgle's Rot.
This is a thick consistency,
semi-transparent, high-gloss paint
that you simply paint on,
out of the pot, as a final touch,
to add a suitably revolting slime effect.
Because it's a shade of green, it doesn't stand out
particularly well when used on the skin,
but does look pretty effective,
when used selectively on the clothes,
such as we see here;
dribbles down this Fatty's trousers.
As with the blood, the Nurgle's Rot
can be used to help cover up
any untidy lines or mistakes
that may have been made earlier on.
Although I would take care not to overuse it.
Overall, I think that Nurgle's Rot is
an excellent product that's very easy to use
and when used selectively, can provide
a very effective finishing touch.
Finally, you will most likely want to paint the base,
in which case, a mix of Mechanicus Grey,
with a small amount of white,
and a hint of purple, such as Daemonette Hide,
should produce a shade
that nicely matches the board.
As a more classy but structurally
more delicate alternative,
I'll be rebasing my zombies with the clear Litko bases
as described in the previous episode.
With that done, our Toxic Zombies are now complete.
And amongst the horde, we can see how well
they stand out against the regular zombies.
Thank you so much for watching
and for your ongoing support of these videos.
As always, I will endeavour to respond to any
and all feedback in the comments section below.
Happy painting!
