Kirsty: Hi everybody, I'm Kirsty Meakin from Naio Nails. In this video, we are going to do some gorgeous nails
that are gonna be EdgeLetto shape.
We have the gorgeous Abby in. She's an instagramer and she actually has like a Gothic kind of...
Kirsty: Well you're just a goth, aren't you?
Abby: A little. Yeah, a little bit.
Kirsty: She's just little bit goth.
Abby: Just a little bit goth.
Kirsty: If you wanna find her on Instagram, I'm sure we're gonna link it below but it's Mybeautifulnightmare.
Kirsty: So, yeah, we've got you in because I think you're pretty cool.
Abby: Oh, thanks!
Kirsty: I like alternative looking people, that have something a little bit different.
Abby: I think I do qualify to be different.
Kirsty: Definitely, you do. I'm loving this tattoo.
Abby: Yes!
Kirsty: This one's quite new.
Abyy: Yeah, a month. A month old, I think so.
Kirsty: It looks fresh. I love it. It's cool.
Abby: Got a matching one on the other.
Kirsty: Oh my God, yeah!
Kirsty: Did you had them done, both at the same time?
Abby: Yeah. Two hour session.
Kirsty: I had normally sit for about four hours and I'm normally fainting at the end and I'm like, no more pain.
Kirsty: So, we're gonna do an edgeletto. An edgeletto is a stiletto but it has a spine running down the middle of it.
So, I'm gonna show you how to do that. I've already prepped Abby's nails.
I'm gonna work on this one first of all, just because I like it and I like the ring.
So, we're gonna work on that one, first of all.
I've pre-made this. Well, I've made it.
Adam: You pre-fold it.
Kirsty: Fold it, yeah. Bit of origami.
Kirsty: So, I'm gonna show you how to do this because this is really important.
So, you're gonna fold it while it's on the Backing Paper.
Don't sort of race ahead and take it off, then go, 'oh damn, I've not folded it".
You've got to fold it before. So, if you're doing a full set, make sure you fold all of your Sculpting Forms, first of all.
So, what you're gonna do is, you're gonna fold this perfectly down the middle.
Now, we have a little perforation line here that can get you started, so, it's easy to fold that bit.
So, we have a starting point there and we're gonna come to this point here and fold this.
I'm so excited to do this. I love like, kind of Gothic nails.
So, you're gonna slowly press throughout the length of that Sculpting Form.
Then I tend to use a side of my nails. Now, these ones aren't long, and these are a little bit trash,
so don't, you know, comment how bad my nails are.
And you're gonna use your nail to score along the edge. You could use a metal tool if you wanted to,
to just really get that line nice and crisp. You want that crease to be super crisp.
It'll really help you.
So, that's what you're gonna do with all of your forms.
And now, we normally turn the this tab over and pop it on like that, well, we can't do that, can we?
Because of the curve, well, the crease.
So, we're gonna match up that crease,
so it runs through the centre.
This tab is gonna give us like double thickness, it's gonna hold a little better.
And then what I'm gonna do is, because I'm gonna show you something, when you add
a spine down the middle of a Sculpting Form, when you come to fit it,
the spine wants to push it up
and if we try to get it underneath, we'll create little gaps at the sides here.
Can you see? I sort of just put that there a second and...
* you're like, maybe we will break your finger and...
Adam: can you take your hand off, please?
Kirsty: Yeah, can I just decapitate that finger?
Kirsty: There you are. You can see better.
So, we have a gap here and a gap here. Now, it is hard to completely get rid of that.
You may have a slight gap, so don't worry about it, but how we can help is, by cutting a little triangle out.
So, if we cut a little triangle out, that relieves a bit of pressure
from that little bit of the spine pressing on the natural nail.
So, you can see that little point we've created?
So now, when we put the form on, I am gonna close this end now.
When we put this form on, it's actually pulled away from the natural nail so we can get a little bit closer
and this part is not gonna push up onto the nail, creating pressure. It'll, you know, eradicate that.
And we have a little bit of excess here.
So, we're gonna close that tight as well. You could even rock it over, that'll make it super tight.
We have a little bit of excess there because what we have done is, we have anchored the form down slightly.
And we've done that so we can get a nice, straight side wall.
So, they're quite a long nail. Gonna go to a three.
Kirsty: And you said you're gonna be fine with a three, haven't you?
Abby: Yeah, I'll be fine.
Kirsty: Doing her makeup and everything. I love your makeup.
Abby: Thank you!
Kirsty: I really love this eyeliner here with a little...because it makes you look like you've got full lashes at the bottom.
Abby: I know it's a cheap way to save on getting bottom set of lashes.
Kirsty: I love it though. How cool is that?
Kirsty: I think I need to have a little go with that.
You could do it in all different colours as well. Even red.
Abby: Just purchased my second eyeliner, which is white, so I cannot do white instead of black.
Kirsty: White ones! Oh, pretty cool. I'd like to see that.
Kirsty: So, I'm gonna dehydrate this nail now.
I did say I was gonna use that one, didn't I? But I've moved to this one and for no apparent reason.
I'm gonna dehydrate with the Nail Prep Dehydrator
and then I'm going to use the Ultra Bond Acid Primer.
I've not done Abby's nails before, I don't know if she's gonna have any lifting issues, so,
I'm gonna eradicate that problem by using the Ultra Bond Acid Primer.
I'm gonna use Medium-speed Liquid. I'm gonna sculpt the whole thing out.
It will not be clear by the end, it will be black like Abby's soul.
So, I wanna show you where we're gonna start. So, we're gonna start just by making contact with that natural nail.
Now because of the shape of the form, it will want to fall to the side, so you need to control that,
and then we're gonna pat each side.
So, normally, we would pat the full surface and then actually bring it down,
so this way, we're actually coming down the sides more than anything.
If it gets a little bit chunky on the top, you can slightly pat it,
but all I need to do really is start to pat each side and you can see, it pushes some of the product
to the top on that spine, so you actually start to create the spine already.
So, you can see how it's pushing up to the top.
I'm just gonna get a small bead just because I needed a little bit more on the end
and sweep that back one side and then the other side.
Don't worry how high that spine is because it's better to have something to file against
rather than having to build it up afterwards.
You can see that I rotate the brush from here. So, I'm not going pat pat pat.
I'm actually turning the brush as I pat.
Gonna take another bead, quite a bit bead and come right from that cuticle, tipping the finger down.
And again we're going to pull side to side.
Just gonna add a little bit of liquid there, so we can make contact a little bit easier.
Now, I'm just gonna take a little bead and make sure I have enough product on the sides
because the majority of the product has been pushed up into the spine.
So Abby, how long does it take you to do your makeup in the morning?
Kirsty: Because it's pretty phenomenal, that makeup is.
Abby: Anywhere from a half an hour to two...
Abby: ...depending on if I can be bothered to put down my phone.
Kirsty: So, do you procrastinate? You know, just...
Abby: So much
Kirsty: Yeah! Just do a bit and then, oh, I would do something else.
Abby: Well, you certainly can't do a good winged liner if you're singing along to music. I always am.
Kirsty: So, what music do you listen to?
Abby: Mainly proper old-school 80s Goth Cure, Sues and the Banshies.
Kirsty: Yeah!
Abby: Really in a Sisters of Mercy kick at the minute.
Kirsty: What about Nirvana?
Abby: Not quite.
Kirsty: Is that not your thing?
Abby: Not quite.
Kirsty: I used to love Nirvana.
Abby: I listen to them quite a bit back in the emo days.
Kirsty: Is that more emo then? Yeah.
So, what is the difference between goth and emo in your opinion?
Kirsty: I'm sure everybody's opinions are totally different but...
Abby: Don't start this debate on the internet.
Kirsty: Oh, come on. Tell me, I want to know.
Abby: Well, really, it's just the music. Is what it comes down to.
Kirsty: Yeah.
Abby: Like Goth music is the original Goth music. It is The Cure. It's so different than metal completely.
Kirsty: Yeah.
Abby: I mean, I like both but they are very different genres.
Kirsty: Yeah.
Abby: Goths are the ones who, well, dress like this, go and watch The Cure in the Batcave and...
Kirsty: Yeah.
Abby: Prance around cemeteries.
In emos and more.
I don't know, emos just all your. What I used to listen to, Asking Alexandria and Breaking Benjamin and all that kind of thing.
Kirsty: Right! I've never heard of all these people she's talking about.
Adam: It's because you're old.
Kirsty: So, I'm gonna pinch the nail just to slim it down a little bit.
So, you're still going to have, not so much of a curve, but you're gonna bring it from here to sort of here.
Does that make sense? So, it looks like a rooftop.
Adam: Triangles...
Kirsty: Yeah.
Adam: ...are strong, that's why...
Kirsty: Yeah.
Adam: ...roofs are made of them.
Kirsty: Yeah!
Kirsty: So, is a strong, it is a very strong structure, this is.
Right! So, I'm going to take this form off now.
So, it's pretty much set
and I've dropped down a little bit lower there, but we're gonna file that away.
Look, it's that tight. Look at that sort of tight fit. Yes!
Because look underneath.
That's dropping down.
So, you can see we've got that nice, crisp underneath.
I'm going to file this nail with an inch of its life.
I'm gonna take that bit off.
The only thing with Clear, it's too difficult to get the sides nice and straight because it's difficult to see,
but it was quite thin, that bit of product was, so we could just file that away.
So, I'm gonna get my side nice and straight first.
I am supporting the nail with my thumb.
And then now, I'm supporting with my finger.
Now, when you creating something with an edge, so it's like this rooftops spine,
you do file it a little bit different but this part is no different and the cuticle part is no different.
It's the filing over the top that is different to a normal shape nail.
So, I'm filing just so we get to bit of a point.
And then,
I'm gonna come around the cuticle, make that a little bit more flush.
And you can see by the demarcations that the file is causing,
you can see exactly where I'm filing. So, we're just around that cuticle area.
So, my opinion, this would be a very gothic shape.
Abby: I think I agree on that one.
Kirsty: Mm-hmm!
Kirsty: So now, I'm gonna file straight up, and I'm gonna keep filing up until I get a nice edge on the spine.
So, the file is very flat. So, this is very easy to do because you're keeping this angle, what is it like a...
I don't know, what kind of angles is that?
45 degrees, maybe?
Adam: The question is for the mathematician.
Kirsty: Yeah.
Adam: So, why do you keep looking at me?
Kirsty: I don't know.
Kirsty: Because you normally know all that stuff.
Adam: Somebody more educated than me here.
Kirsty: Well, has this got any angles in it, has it? Need more tools with lots of angles.
So, the spine will soften off as we reach the cuticle area.
And what I want you to do when you're creating a nail like this as well, is
to check underneath because sometimes you can keep filing and maybe you're making it too thin.
But this is fine, we're not going to thin here.
So, you can see we have bulk here, but this is a lot thinner, but not too thin.
So, we're gonna do the same on this side.
Keeping everything very flat, you can move your client to have that angle that's easy for you.
Don't be afraid to move your client and boss them around. And be like, "hey, let's move you over here."
I'm checking the angles and then I'm gonna check underneath if I still have room to file and I do.
So, I'm gonna go really flat again, I'm gonna change how I'm holding the finger like this,
so I can really see it and I can also pull that skin away, so I'm not gonna catch Abby's finger.
I want you to notice how we've got a bit of a dip. See that bit of a dip here?
I'm gonna show you how to get rid of that.
Because normally, we'd be filing on top to get rid of that. No, not with a spine.
You're going to file the spine straight.
Still keeping it very flat and you slightly go over.
You're not gonna take the file over, you're just going to sneak onto the spine, which will mis-centre the spine.
Can you see how we've moved it over to this side a little bit?
So, you see how the spine is moved over here a little bit, and then we're gonna come back
and we're going to put the spine back in the middle.
And by doing this, we've got rid of the dip.
It's that easy.
Pretty cool little trick.
Don't file over the top. You don't wanna start going into your normal sort of filing routine.
I've just gone to a softer file, so I can really see the spine.
By going to a softer file, can you see how smooth it's getting now?
And I can really see where that spine is and how sharp it is.
And I can skip around the entire nail, just to refine it a little bit further.
So, once you finish filing, we're gonna buff the nail
and make sure when you buff, you're buffing flat,
don't go into your normal buffing routine, just, you know, going over the top because you will soften off that spine
and you don't wanna do that.
So and then again, I'm gonna move to the side
and I can be flat with my buffing.
And the buffing will actually make the spine even sharper as well.
I love how you can see, it's like a prism.
Kirsty: Like, how you can see this spine underneath.
Adam: Yeah!
Kirsty: And the spine on top.
I love that. A bit weird.
So, I'm gonna wipe over with Gel Residue Wipe-off Solution.
Adam: Why not Acetone?
Kirsty: Because I am actually gonna put something on top of this. So, I'm gonna put Gel Polish on.
Kirsty: So, I'm gonna put Gel polish on, I don't want to make it super smooth.
If I was doing acrylic colour, I would tend to just go over with the Acetone just to smooth it out a little bit more.
So, I'm gonna use the Black Metallic.
Let me show you the number.
110.
Now, we'd normally put this straight onto the top coat to get it super shiny,
but I want everything to be really thin
and I want everything to be sharp.
So, the spine, I want to have that super sharp spine,
and when you add Gel Polish to it, It tends to soften it a little bit but because the metallics is so thin,
it will keep spine super sharp.
Oh, it's working.
Can you see that tiny bit of buffage?
Oh, it's so sharp!
Oh, I'm in love!
Right! We're gonna pop that in the lamp and let that dry.
It will dry a little bit quicker because we haven't put it on top of top coat, which is what we normally do with Metallics.
Because we put it straight onto the acrylic, it will sort of absorb it a little bit quicker and dry a little bit quicker as well.
I'm gonna apply a second coat now.
So because we haven't put it on the top of a top coat, it will be slightly diminished, the shine will,
but I'm not fostered about that. When the top coat goes on it, it will be quite shiny still.
Kirsty: Its cool, ain't it?
Abby: It looks like a weapon.
Kirsty: It does, don't it?
So now, we're gonna top coat.
Make sure you are topcoating the entire thing.
Adam: Do you want that to be as thin as possible as well?
Kirsty: Yes, you do.
Kirsty: So, you're gonna drag this down nice and thin, because it will keep the spine nice and sharp.
And I think that's a big difference between a really good edgeletto and a bad one,
is keeping that spine nice and sharp.
Look at the spine!
I love it!
Right, we're gonna put some stones on, some studs on and make it real goth now.
So, I'm gonna use Acry Gel to secure everything. So, like all the metal pieces and the crystals.
So, I've got some Gel Residue Wipe-off Solution in this little Dampen Dish.
I'm gonna move this around, place it where I'm gonna put the stones.
So, I've created this sort of triangle shape
because I wanna work with those kind of, that kind of angles. I think it really complements the nail.
I am also going to put top coat over this.
This is why I want everything so thin because we're gonna do another layer of top coat.
So, we'll do the top coat, then the stones will actually press in to the Acry Gel and into the top coat as well.
I love how the metallic has actually created kind of like a silver line down the spine.
So, I'm gonna use some of these little triangle pieces in this wheel. I'm gonna use some of these triangle pieces.
It's all about the triangles! All about the triangles!
That will be the start and we're gonna build up.
So, before you pop it in the lamp, make sure you're happy with where all your little pieces are,
all the little gems and studs.
And then, if it pools at the bottom, like this one has pooled a little bit at the bottom,
I'm just gonna come up to the sides and pull that down.
Damn girl!
That's one fierce nail.
Just making sure nothing is at the sides, and then we're gonna finish with some Cuticle Oil.
Look at that! So nice!
Nice sharp spine. So, we have a nice sharp spine underneath as well.
So, it runs through the entire structure of the nail.
There you are. Do you like it?
Abby: I love it.
Kirsty: Is it very you?
Abby: I think it is very me.
Kirsty: Yes!
There you are, guys. That's how to create a edgeletto, Goth style, just for our beautiful,
as I keep calling Goth girl.
Kirsty: Everything that...
Abby: Can't complain.
Kirsty: Yeah, that's good then, as long as you like it. I love your lashes as well.
Abby: Thank you!
I do kind of want to peel them off and put them on my eyes. Not gonna lie.
Abby: I think I got them for three quid off Amazon.
Kirsty: Oh God! Bargain!
Kirsty: Everything I've used today will be listed below. Don't forget to check us out on Facebook and Instagram,
and I'll see you in the next video. Bye bye!
Kirsty: Do you wanna say bye-bye?
Abby: Bye!
Kirsty: The gorgeous Abby in and...
I'll start again.
