Shichisai was one of the first ramen shops in Tokyo to go completely MSG-free, and ramen critics claim that they started this trend. Their second shop, in Hatchobori, does something else new and exciting: they make their noodles on the spot. If you're lucky enough to sit in front of the noodle-maker, you'll get a quick show before the noodles get their final hand press (which flattens them out and makes them chewier). The ramen here is Kitakatya-style, hailing from the west side of Fukushima Prefecture, north of Tokyo. It's a light soy sauce soup with a kick of dried sardines; the style is simple, but the balance makes it comforting Japanese soul food.