Pistacia Vera’s croque-monsieur ($12) is an outstanding cross between a sandwich and a
pastry.

One patron was overheard saying: “It’s the ultimate ham-and-cheese sandwich.”

It gets a head start with the house-made brioche bun.

Too many so-called “brioches” are dumbed-down versions of the real thing. They lack sufficient
egg and butter, are made with too soft a flour that can’t absorb as much egg and butter, and are
insufficiently fermented.

The brioche at Pistacia Vera has none of those concerns. It is delicately textured but
substantial.

The proper amounts of egg and butter ensure a delectable experience.

Using the brioche as a bun, then inserting top-quality ham and Swiss cheese, enriching it with a
real Mornay sauce and adding a small salad of designer greens results in one of the classiest and
most satisfying breakfast, brunch and lunch offerings anywhere.

Eat slowly and appreciate it.

Pistacia Vera continues to make an exquisitely flaky and buttery croissant ($3). A great way to
try it is to order the tomato Provencal baked eggs ($11). The croissant — split, toasted and served
with house-made jam — accompanies the eggs.

The eggs are baked in a ramekin with cream, real Parmesan, and tomato seasoned with onion,
garlic and rosemary. The tart Provencal-style tomatoes provide a wonderful counterpoint to the rich
eggs.

On the sweet side, the praline feuilletine ($6) is for connoisseurs of chocolate and the wonders
that hazelnuts can perform with it. This isn’t one of those “death-by-chocolate” deals that clubs
diners with chocolate. The complex of flavors, including hazelnuts from the crust and mocha in one
of the layers, marries well with chocolate.

The chocolate layers range from a milky white to almost black on the outside, with no one layer
dominating the other.

The appearance of the confection, with decorations of chocolate leaves and gold, is as carefully
wrought as the flavors.