For decades here, in South Korean postcards and school textbooks, the bullet-scarred, rusting hulks of wartime locomotives trapped in the demilitarized zone have symbolized a divided Korea and a conflict that has never formally ended. North Korea and South Korea are still technically at war since the Korean War ended in a truce, not a peace treaty.
“These are not just test runs,” Unification Minister Lee Jae-Joung of South Korea said. “They mean reconnecting the severed bloodline of the Korean nation.” He spoke during a ceremony at Munsan Station, 12 kilometers south of the demilitarized zone. “The trains carry our dream of peace.”
His North Korean counterpart, Kwon Ho Ung, who was also in Munsan, said the trains represented the “Korean nation’s wish to gallop to the destination of reunification,” despite what he called outside forces — apparently a reference to the United States — that are “not happy with reconciliation among Koreans.”
The major television networks in South Korea broadcast the event live.
The South Korean train, carrying 150 people from both sides of the border, pulled out of Munsan around 11:30 a.m. as fireworks exploded overhead.
It traveled 27 kilometers to Gaesong, a North Korean border town where South Korea runs factories employing workers from the North and where labor is less costly than in the South. The North Korean train, which also carried passengers from both sides of the border, made a similar journey, traveling between the Diamond Mountain resort and Jejin, 40 kilometers to the south.
South Korea has long dreamed of building a trans-Korea railroad that would connect its train network to China and to the Trans-Siberian Railway in the former Soviet Union, creating a so-called Iron Silk Road.
North Korea blocks overland access to Asia, which makes South Koreans “feel as if we live in an island,” the South Korean transportation minister, Lee Yong Sup, said yesterday.
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A trans-Korea railroad would offer a faster and cheaper way for South Korea to bring exports that are now shipped by sea to China and Europe. It would also provide a shortcut for Russian oil and other natural resources transported to South Korea. Such a rail system would save South Korea $34 to $50 a ton in shipping costs, said Lim Jae Kyung, a researcher at the Korea Transport Institute.
But before the dream of a trans-Korea rail system comes true, transportation analysts and government officials say, years of confidence-building talks and billions of dollars in investment in North Korea’s decrepit rail system will be needed.
Officials acknowledge that such a dream will not be made real until after North Korea gives up its nuclear weapons and improves its human rights record. Those moves would help build public support in South Korea for large investments across the border and would open the way for international development aid.
Six-nation talks on ending North Korea’s nuclear weapons programs have been stalled for months. Doubts persist over whether Pyongyang will give up its weapons program in return for economic aid and diplomatic recognition from Washington.
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“I cannot understand why we should give rice, flour, fertilizer and everything else the North Koreans want when they don’t do anything for us,” said Hong Moo Sun, 71, one of a dozen South Koreans protesting just outside Munsan Station today.
The protesters were calling for North Korea to return their relatives.
Hundreds of South Korean fishermen, described by the North as defectors, were taken to the North in the years following the war.
Several who have returned have said that they had been held against their will.
Members of the Grand National Party, part of the conservative opposition in South Korea, called the event today a “train of illusion” — the event, they said, appeared to draw voters’ attention in an election year.
South Korean officials say a trans-Korea railroad would invigorate inter-Korean trade, which tripled from $430 million in 2000 to $1.35 billion last year.
It would also bring cash to North Korea, which could collect an estimated $150 million a year in transit fees from trains that pass through its territory, according to some estimates.
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But it is unclear whether or when North Korea might agree to regular train service across the border.
Procuring international aid to renovate the rail network and letting trains from one of Asia’s most vibrant economies, carrying exports and tourists, rumble through its isolated territory could threaten the North Korean regime, analysts and others say.
North Korea now relies on keeping its people ignorant of the outside world to maintain its totalitarian grip on power, those analysts add.
Both Koreas agreed in 2000 to reconnect their rail systems, which had been severed by aerial bombing during the war. It took three years to link the tracks on the west and east ends of the border.
After four more years of haggling and delays, the North Korean military agreed this month to allow one-time test runs.
The agreement came after South Korea promised to send North Korea 400,000 tons of rice, as well as $80 million worth of raw materials for shoes, soap and textiles.
South Korea has spent 544.5 billion won, or $589 million, on reconnecting the rail system, including 180 billion won in equipment, tracks and other material loaned to North Korea.
South Korean policy makers have called for patience in working toward reconciliation with the North. They have often been accused by conservative politicians and civic groups of giving in to North Korea’s strategy of extracting economic aid for every step toward reconciliation.
“This is a precious first step for a 1,000-mile journey,” Mr. Lee, the unification minister, said today.
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South Korea has seen some tangible results in its overtures to the North in recent years.
The North Korean military cleared mines and moved some of its weapons to make room for the rail system and the Gaesong industrial complex. In addition, South Korean factory managers commute from Seoul to Gaesong using a road that was reconnected in 2004, and South Korean buses regularly take tourists to the Diamond Mountain resort in the North.
Diesel locomotive of the type that crossed from south to north
For the first time in 56 years, two passenger trains crossed the border between North Korea and South Korea.
Before today, no trains made the trip between the north and the south since the Korean War divided the once-unified Korea. 

Riding on rails built by South Korea several years ago, the train traveled from Munsan in the south to Kaesong in the north. The train was granted access to the demilitarized zone since 1951, the heavily guarded border between North and South Korea. Meanwhile, from the north a train traveled from Kumgang to Jejin. Each train carried 150 specially invited passengers.

"Today the heart of the Korean peninsula will start beating again," South Korean Unification Minister Lee Jae-joung said.

Although largely symbolic, the rail connection is seen as an important step in thawing relations. To date, North Korea has approved only this one trial run of the trains.