Fashion | Collections
PFW SS19 day 5: Loewe, Balmain and Celine
Text: Cai Mei Khoo Joan Kong
Loewe was all about the concept of movement, Balmain tapped Cara Delevingne to open the show, and Hedi Slimane made his highly anticipated debut at Celine
Where: One of the earliest shows during Paris Fashion Week, the fashion crowd descended on the UNESCO headquarters for the Loewe show, and were greeted by large spinning car wash brushes, an art installation by Italian artist Lara Favaretto. There were also machines blowing bubbles, large baskets by Loewe Craft Prize finalist Joe Hogan in one room, and record players on the floor, some with ceramics spinning on them, in the last room.
The Low-down: As with previous collections, Jonathan Anderson again focused on craft, producing a collection that's both thoughtful yet highly wearable. Striped dresses were paired either with basket bags or oversized woven sling bags, but these dresses were too refined for the beach. Tunics in satin and oversized dresses in the softest suede featured deep V necklines, suits (tailoring at Loewe!) had bicoloured lapels and were worn with fringed scarves, that made way for feathers—on oversized pockets on a dress and then on the bodice of a knit vest worn over a light blue satin trouser and shirt look, and then cropping up again on large earrings, cuffs and on large woven bags. The Gate bag was yet again featured in the show, while the Puzzle bag makes a comeback, this time in a mini size, and in crocodile leather.
Buro Loves: Feathers on everything! The suits with bicoloured lapel, oversized cardigan looks, toeless boots, woven leather and straw bags, and the fringed leather bags.
Who: Cara Delevingne made a rare appearance on the fashion week catwalk by opening the Balmain show, and once again during the second finale, where models and creative director Olivier Rousteing strutted down the runway while Queen's hit, Under Pressure, played in the background.
Where: Backstage, the designer revealed that being in the City of Light and surrounded by all the art and architecture—namely Place de la Concorde and the Pyramide du Louvre—inspired his sculptural designs this season.
The Low-down: "I'm not obsessed with trends, I'm obsessed with being French, Parisian," Olivier Rousteing told WWD before the show. While the Parisian architecture inspired the designs of the collection, the overall vibe, were full of '80s influences. For starters, the soundtrack was made up of the best hits by Queen, Chaka Khan, INXS and Duran Duran, complementing the looks, filled with pointy padded shoulders, bustier tops and baggy harem-esque pants. The black and white colour palette was amped up with head-turning silhouettes, pops of metallic and geometric patterns, made in a variety of materials—denim, tweed, lamé, you name it. Regardless of one's style, the collection definitely has something for somebody, and it'll level up your fashion game, for sure.
Buro Loves: Although reminiscent of Issey Miyake's designs, the pleated puffed shoulder tops and dresses were definitely our favourites.
Who: Hedi Slimane's debut at Celine, after an absence from fashion for two years, made it the most anticipated show at Paris Fashion Week. Fans and curious onlookers waited outside the show venue at Les Invalides awaiting the arrival of VIP superstars including Lady Gaga, and CL. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Virgil Abloh, and the Arnault family also made an appearance at the show.
Where: The large, rectangular show venue was purpose-built, with the Celine logo, minus the acute accent, prominently displayed at the top. The dome of the church at Les Invalides made for a dramatic backdrop. Inside the show venue, a large black box opened to reveal reflective mirrors, taking its cue from windup ballerina music boxes.
The Low-down: With a very different vision and aesthetic to the previous creative director, Phoebe Philo, Philophiles were obviously nervous as to what Slimane would bring to the brand. In a recent interview with Le Figaro, Slimane acknowledged their different styles and distinct visions and said "you don't enter a fashion house to imitate the work of your predecessor...It also means starting a new chapter. You arrive with a story, a culture, a personal language that is different from those of the house. You have to be yourself, against all odds." And true to his design codes, and to the chagrin of Phoebe fans, this season's Celine features mini dresses, bubble skirts, exaggerated shoulders, lashings of leather and a generous dose of sequins (Slimane called the show 'Paris La Nuit', so of course you need a sparkly party dress). The show also marked the debut of Celine menswear—sharp, boxy jackets matched with narrow trousers, worn with skinny ties. Post-show, despite the whoops and raucous applause, multiple comments about the show looking like Slimane's own work at Saint Laurent were overheard; see Twitter for more comments and complaints.
Buro Loves: The tux with cropped, tapered trousers, bubble skirt looks, all the sequined party dresses; and the 16 bag.
PFW SS19 day 5 in 10 pictures:
Jonathan Anderson
PFW SS19
Breaking news: Phoebe Philo is leaving Céline
Just in: Hedi Slimane joins Céline as its Artistic, Creative and Image Director
The Buro fashion team talks personal style, and this season's Loewe Gate bag