To get started you need to have a detector, most people getting into metal detecting for the first time have no idea what detector to buy so we have put together this handy buying guide to help you choose which detector is best for you.
After selecting a metal detector, we recommend spending some time going over the user manual to familiarise yourself with the features of your detector.
Once you've done this it is a good idea to practice in the backyard before embarking on your first metal detecting adventure. All you need to do is place some coins and other metal objects such as nails around the backyard and move your detector over them. The basic technique for metal detecting is to 'go slow and stay low'. This means that the speed that you sweep the coil across the ground should be slow, and the coil should pass across the ground in an even sweep that is as close to the ground as possible. Listen to the sound or signal your detector makes, you will begin to understand what finding a coin sounds like.
Once you are confident with your metal detector you can begin treasure hunting out in the field!
And most importantly your metal detector!
If you are travelling to a remote area, always advise someone of your movements and check back in with them when you get home again.
In the metal detecting world there is often a lot of jargon used, so we've broken it down for you.
Non rechargeable battery recommended for most detectors by the manufacturers.
A setting available on some detectors allowing them to detect any kind of metal (ferrous or non-ferrous).
Manmade objects found whilst detecting. We normally refer to buckles, buttons, musket balls and other finds as artefacts, but not coins.
an acronym for all 'all terrain', a term often used to describe specific models of metal detectors that can be used on all types of terrain.
Hunting for coins regardless of location or era of coins targeted.
A type of search coil with two circular coils tuned to each other to produce a cone shaped search matrix (see coils).
Contains the detector's main circuitry, controls, speaker, batteries and microprocessor chip.
How far in the ground an object is buried.
Informal term for a metal detector.
Someone who uses a metal detector for a hobby.
The ability of a metal detector to reject a target, such as a pull tab and foil or accept a target such as a coin or jewellery based on its metallic composition.
A term used in Australia and New Zealand referring to prospecting for precious metals and gemstones.
The number of times per second the energy transmitted from a detector's coil changes direction (e.g. 7.0 kHz = 7000 times per second) - higher frequencies are typically used to find targets such as gold nuggets, while lower frequencies are best for general purpose hunting.
A bowl-shaped, shallow container that traps gold flakes.
An electronic device that is used to search for buried metal objects. It gives an audible signal and visual display when it is close to metal.
When you use a metal detector or a device called a 'pin pointer or pin pointer probe' to find your target or object with greater accuracy.
Searching for gem stones, minerals, coins, gold, jewellery and other metals.
'PI' is a different type of technology to a VLF detector, designed specifically for highly mineralised (and salt) soils. This type of detector transmits and receives alternatively many hundred times a second, allowing it to still detect metallic objects in extreme soil conditions. A downside to this technology is that PI detectors are poor discriminators of ferrous metals.
Synonymous with Depth, the adjustment that determines how deep or small a target can be detected - the higher the sensitivity, the greater the detection depth.
Any metallic item sensed by a detector.
'Very Low Frequency' or 'Constant Wave' metal detector. This type of detector is continuously transmitting and receiving at all times. An advantage of this system is that VLF detectors are excellent discriminators.
Do not detect in National Parks or Heritage Listed locations.
Check with your local Council regarding detecting in Parks. Some Councils have by-laws prohibiting this and fines apply.
You must hold a relevant permit for your State when fossicking for gold, minerals or gemstones (fees and charges subject to change). Most Australian States and Territories and New Zealand have designated public fossicking areas. See details below on fossicking permits.
Remember that when you are out with your metal detector you are an ambassador for the hobby. Don't do anything that might give it a bad name and never miss an opportunity to explain your hobby to anyone who asks about it.
Below is a list of permit details for each Australian State and Territory and New Zealand.
NSW: No licence is required for recreational fossicking in NSW unless you are planning on fossicking in State forests, a permit can be obtained online and is $27.50 for 12 months and covers a family of five. To apply online click here.
For general information about fossicking in New South Wales, visit the website here.
VIC: In VIC you must obtain a Miner's Right permit for fossicking and prospecting. The Miner's Right is $20.40 for 10 years and can be purchased online here.
For more information about prospecting and fossicking in Victoria, visit the website here.
QLD: Fossicking Licence $47.55 for an individual for 12 months, the licence can be purchased online here.
For more information on fossicking in Queensland, visit the website here.
TAS: a Prospectors licence is required to fossick outside of the declared fossicking areas in Tasmania, the licence fee is $30.40.
ACT: The majority of Australia Capital Territory is Namadgi National Park where fossicking is not permitted.
There are a number of clubs you can join and sometimes being a member of the club allows you to fossick under the club licence.
Batteries - only use the very best quality alkaline, or rechargeable batteries. Replace your batteries when the battery monitor is at 'Low'. If you have absolutely no power, check that the batteries are installed with the correct polarities.
Coil connection - ensure that the search coil cable is connected firmly to the control box and wrapped tightly around the stem (allowing for some 'heel-toe' movement of the search coil), to prevent 'false' signals.
Ground balance - this is by far the most critical consideration when prospecting. If the detector is noisy, it is most likely out of ground balance. Ground conditions can change very quickly in goldfields (or any area of mineralised soils), so it is imperative to stay 'on top' of the ground balance. This also applies to detectors with Automatic Ground Balance, or a 'Tracking' function.
Factory Reset - if your detector has a 'Factory Reset' function, it is a good idea to perform this procedure at the start of each day's detecting, to clear any residual notching or programming you may have used on the last outing.
If you are getting into some serious prospecting, there are resources available from your State Mining Department.