At the top restaurants where they're sually served, petits fours are often nothing more than a nuisance. Who wants to eat cookies or chocolate macaroons just after polishing off a four-course dinner with dessert and coffee? But chef Edward Brown has come up with a petit four you cannot refuse: a colorful painter's palette of mini ice-cream cones presented on a stand. The cones are formed by a thin, crisp tuile; each one is crowned with a different homemade ice cream or sorbet, depending on the season. If you're lucky (or perhaps running a sizable tab), mini banana popsicles coated in chocolate and dipped in pistachio along with a basket of freshly baked hazelnut madeleines come with it. .