In many ways, Florence seems to be more of a fairy-tale land than a working Italian city. The historical center houses one of the world's finest collections of art, tremendous history, and significant architecture at just about every turn, but finding "where the locals go" can be a bit of a treasure hunt. One of the most touted quarters untouched by mass tourism is undoubtedly the Oltrarno, meaning: "the other side of the Arno River." Quite literally, this zone lies on the south bank of the river and is the hipper quarter, the artisan epicenter, and the side of town where much of the classic Florentine soul still resides. The antique shops lining Via Santo Spirito, independent designers, boutiques and craftsman workshops tucked in the side streets surrounding Santo Spirito and Palazzo Pitti, buzzing cafés, live performers, and weekly themed markets are what defines the area.
For culinary delights, head to the San Frediano section of the Oltrarno. Established in the mid-1800s, San Frediano became known as the meat district of the city as well as housing lesser-known, but worthwhile, landmarks like the Church of San Frediano in Cestello and Brancacci Chapel. So put on walking shoes, work up an appetite touring the other side of the river, and embark on a food crawl of San Frediano.
This is an institution in Florence—a sort of hip, alternative bookshop café with occasional live performances. Locals spill out in the streets chattering and nursing beers in between sets of shows. It's a funky spot to hang for coffee, drinks, and evening aperitivi with snacks sourced with organic, local ingredients.
MomoyamaYou may not come to Florence looking for sushi, but Momoyama gives a great contrast to the meat-heavy food scene in the Oltrarno. They source local, fresh catches and the team in the kitchen has earnestly studied the Japanese culinary repertoire. The interior has a minimalist-design vibe and a concise traditional menu ranging from sashimi to dashi udon soups.
GestoGesto is a sort of quirky concept bar, where small novelty plates like mini-toasts of Burrata and anchovies, vegan sushi rolls, and mini-sliders are paired with craft beer, natural wines, and cocktails.
This restaurant is considered part of the "new wave" of pizza restaurants in Italy, as their energy is focused on more gourmet pizza paired with craft Italian beer. They have a fixation with natural, artisan products like farm-to-pizzeria cured meats, heirloom tomato varieties, and ancient grains such as farro (emmer) and enkir. Be sure to try their prosciutto, Burrata, and lemon-infused oil pie.
A mix of tradition, modernity, and international flair, Io offers plates like potato ravioli softened with a cream of wild fennel and punctuated with Tuscan Mortadella di Prato (a salami flavored with a medicinal liqueur dating back as far as the Renaissance). It seems that it helps to be an Italian culinary junkie in order to truly appreciate the nuance at Io. They offer the quality, service, and creativity one would expect from a fine-dining or star-status restaurant but at accessible prices.
Tripperia San Frediano Florence's original lampredotto street food is fit for those aspiring to channel their inner Andrew Zimmern. After all, this quarter was where wholesale mongers of tripe have been found for generations. However, this food stand in the heart of San Frediano does more than just guts and tongue panini; there are also cheap, filling plates of pasta like cacio e pepe or rice with saffron and pancetta on offer.
Florence's culinary identity also rests heavily on the Florentine steak, so a wise traveler would be sure to partake. This locale, located in a former 16th-century convent, has a cult following for its bistecca and Tuscan delicacies like fried brain and zucchini flowers. The spot is more than 65 years old and delightfully fits the stereotype of a rustic Tuscan trattoria: a Chianti-rich wine cellar, a rustic space with paper place mats, and an open counter slicing up prosciutto from their hanging display. Stick with the steak here for a truly memorable meal.