gentlemanwatchcollector, Author at Best Cash Today. Sell Rolex, Sell Panerai, Sell Cartier, Sell Vertu.
I have recently had an interview with the site Mr Watch Master – Collectors World where I discussed my interest in collecting watches.
In this interview I discussed such topics as how I became interested in collecting watches and also what was my first and favourite watch.
The interview was quite descriptive and I enjoyed doing it.
Fakes and Replica's DO hurt people. Many people tell me of how they have bought watches in good faith that turn out not to be genuine. I NEVER want to this to happen to my readers and so have compiled a few points of reference.
1. Modern Rolex watches are fitted with a sapphire crystal which is a very robust scratch-resistant glass that can only be scratched with a diamond. Earlier examples have plastic acrylic crystals however they should only be fitted to early 1980's models.
2. The 'cyclops' date window in a real version is dead centred above the number. Run through the numbers on the date-wheel to see if the numbers look consistent in font and size. Compare the magnification of the dates on the watch to another.
3. The quality of the printing on modern watch dials (face of the watch) should be excellent, with indicators and type evenly spaced and no fuzzy edges.
4. The genuine Rolex movement sweeps smoothly round at about 28,800 revs per hour – each second is broken down into eight steps. Even when a fake uses a Swiss-made movement, the second hand's ticking is usually visibly jerky.
5. Over where 'Swiss made' appears, the brand's logo is laser-etched into the crystal. In a genuine Rolex, this is made up of hundreds of dots set at different heights throughout the crystal (so it doesn't create a weakness in the glass) and as such is barely visible – to see it clearly you have to look through a loupe (the small magnifying glass used by jewellers and watchmakers).
6. If you remove a Rolex bracelet you should find the watch's case number and model number engraved on the side at six o'clock and 12 o'clock (see my 'Date your Rolex' link). Even if the watch has no papers you can identify the model and serial number. Rolex operate a Lost and Stolen register free of change worldwide. If you call with the model and serial number you can check if it is registered as either for your peace of mind.
7. Ensure the crown (the part of the watch that is turned to set the time/date) screws in tightly and firmly. If it doesn't the watch is either damage or not genuine.
9. Often fakes have dial and bezel (the rotating ring around the face of the watch) in colours that were never produced. For instance a Rolex Submariner will only have a blue bezel or face/dial if it is a gold and steel or fully gold model. If you cannot find it on offer in the same colour combination it is highly likely to be fake.
Sadly fakes/replica's were very poor but now production processes have become more sophisticated.
Good fakes feel substantial, keep decent time and have the patina of high quality. Some are so convincing that the only way to tell they're fake is to take the back off and look at the movement.
HOWEVER they are produced poorly, break within weeks usually, are poorly sealed (therefore allow water inside causing condensation in the glass) and fund illegal money-laundering operations. I NEVER buy any type of non-genuine watch and urge all my readers to follow suit.
To see and feel the difference visit a local jeweller selling genuine Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet or Hublot watches and Vertu mobile phones. You will soon realise the massive difference between genuine and fake. The sense of achievement in owning a genuine piece is a fantastic notion plus they have a value so when you get bored or would like the cash email or call me for a same-day best cash offer!
Many 'Sell my Watch' websites ask me to send my Watch or Jewellery. Do you offer this service?
Second; many of these so-called Distance Buyers (i.e. buyers far from where you are based) have simply disappeared leaving sellers high and dry. Do you wish to take such a risk?
You state Instant Cash Paid. What do I need to bring along with me when selling?
I need you to be completely honest with your description of condition for the most accurate price. Upon meeting you will need to produce Official ID for a successful sale and receive Instant Cash for your piece.
Will other buyers pay in cash instantly once satisfied with the watch and my ID?
A Virtually none do. They will pay you often after a few days. It has been known for some sellers to in fact wait to sell your piece before paying you!
Why should I trust the Gentleman Watch Collector rather than my local jeweller or a watch buyer I have found on Google?
I am not asking you to trust me but rather all of the happy sellers I have met over the years. My aim is always for a fair and good deal so both parties are pleased.
Do you purchase replicas and what checks do you do on the pieces you buy?
I NEVER ever purchase anything other thank 100% Original pieces that belong to the seller. Any fakes/replicas/ill-gotten pieces will be reported to the manufacturer and The Police. Every serial number is checked against various Manufacturer and Insurance databases prior to sale. Please never send any valuation requests for such pieces.
Can I give you my Vertu or a Swiss Watch on a Sale or Return basis or as a Broker?
I do not actively sell and so cannot offer this. I would strongly advise against using Sale or Return or Brokers to sell – often dealers and brokers will tell you can sell your piece for a very high price through them in order to have additional stock in their shops/online sites at zero cost to themselves. One must ask why a broker would not buy the item for approximately the price they advise you to sell at if it were realistic?
I have been offered a price range by a large Watch Buyer which is better than what you have offered. Surely I should use them?
My answer is always the same – large companies with huge online presence provide wide ranging valuations some of which will seem attractive. If you are not geographically close it involves – at your own risk – sending your valuables in. This makes it more likely you are hooked in to accepting their offer.
The other case is you take your Watch to them and they offer you the bottom of the valuation range despite the piece being as you described.
What are common reasons for large dealers and watch buyers to reduce their bids from aggressive valuations given over the phone or by email.
1) They have bought the same watch since providing you with the valuation (even if they provided a valuation a few days ago).
2) They put your watch on a machine and tell you it is not sufficiently accurate (in terms of timekeeping) for their standards.
3) Their valuation assumed you serviced the watch recently.
4) General wear and tear but not significant damage of note has been sustained.
5) Your watch was not originally purchased in the UK.
Why would they do this? Because once in their store or once you have sent your piece in you are statistically most like to sell to that business. They know it and exploit the fact.
This database of clasp codes is also an estimate because this information too, is not released by Rolex. This list was compiled from the information provided by different forums and members, asterisks show further assumptions based on invoices and word-of-mouth. Clasp codes and the bracelet part number can be found where the Clasp reads Steelinox and consists of letters and a number. The number corresponds to the month of the year. Asterisks show a probable sequence.