Just wanted to post some success I've had experimenting with different printing surfaces.
Nearly a year ago when I last upgraded my printer beds, I switched to steel. This has two advantages: first the z probe registers much sooner (thus higher/further from the bed), this allows me to raise up the probe so it's less likely to hit stray filament blobs or prints. Plus, I can place thicker print surfaces on the bed without gouging the hotend nozzle into them.
I purchased 24"x24" sheets from McMaster Carr for about $8 a piece, & then cut them into 6"x6" & 6" x 12" sections.
I'll update this thread as I try other surfaces. I also have a sheet of garolite which supposedly works well for nylon, which I hope to try when I get the eSun nylon I just ordered.
Great work! Thanks for the input. I'm going to cross-reference this post in my catalog of useful posts on printing surfaces.
By the way, I tried very many different surfaces for nylon, including garolite and canvas. Garolite is hard to work with, and often contaminates the bottom of the print because the nylon sticks to it so well that you're tearing Garolite when you take off the print. Taulman no longer recommends garolite; they recommend Elmer's glue on glass (http://taulman3d.com/nylon-645-spec.html). I ended up with Scotch Craft Stick on glass, which is very similar to Elmer's liquid PVA glue but easier to apply. Another choice is Elmer's Washable School Glue (which is purple when moist but clear when dry). Either one works, but the Elmer's seems to be stronger; I don't like using it unless I have to because it's almost too strong. I think that the substrate under the glue doesn't matter too much; it probably could be any of those surfaces you've tried.